ECMlink 1g lc1 wideband install?

[eagletalonjohn]

Ok, i did a search on this, and i am getting all 2g stuff. I want to know how i install the lc1/ db9 gauge in a 1g. I am looking to use this thru dsmlink v3 for logging also. I am removing the o2 sensor, and i was going to replace it with the lc1 WB sensor. Any help on this would be cool. thanks

 

[snowborder714]

Off the DB gauge:
White - Yellow wire from LC-1, so your gauge shows your wideband readings
Yellow - Non-dimming illumination
Red - Same power source as LC-1 red wire
Black - Same ground source as LC-1 blue/white wires


Off the LC-1:
Brown - ECU Pin 4 (front o2 input)
Red - Accessory power supply
Blue + white - Grounded using same crimp ring
Yellow - White wire from the DB gauge
Black - wired up to push button switch and LED per instructions


1. You can swap the brown/yellow wires - it's really up to you how you want to do it. Either way, if you use the yellow wire, you'll need to reprogram the yellow wire outputs to match the brown wire. See here for software download and screen shots.
innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]

2. You can alternatively split the brown wire (solder 2 wires on the end of the brown wire), and use one to feed the gauge and the other to input to the ECU. This will leave the yellow wire unused and no need to reprogram it.

 

[eagletalonjohn]

thanks man! i seen all the write ups u have done for the 2g guys. and really appreciate the help. u seem to be the only mod researching the innovative wideband. thanks

 

[muleunit]

Just as a heads up, don't try to mess around with the lc-1's firmware. I had tons of trouble trying to update it and change settings and ended up having to send it back to innovate to be repaired. Installing, uninstalling, shipping, waiting, and installing again is not fun

 

[eagletalonjohn]

if i hooked everything up the way u said , and it dont work, what would be some symptoms that it didnt work? cause i am really not sure if its working or not. it reads 7.4- 7.6. it could be possible that it really is rich. i have a a1000, witha -8 feed and 1000cc injectors. but i wanna make sure sure before i go on the 1st test and tune ride.

 

[snowborder714]

Did you free air calibrate it after you installed it?

 

[eagletalonjohn]

yes i did just as it stated in the instructions

ok, so i split the brown wire on the lc-1. i put one to the ecu pin 4, and the other to the white on the gauge/ is that correct?also i didnt connect the yell from the gauge to anything. i taped it off, is that correct?

 

[GsxEcutioner]

Off the DB gauge:
White - Yellow wire from LC-1, so your gauge shows your wideband readings
Yellow - Non-dimming illumination
Red - Same power source as LC-1 red wire
Black - Same ground source as LC-1 blue/white wires


Off the LC-1:
Brown - ECU Pin 4 (front o2 input)
Red - Accessory power supply
Blue + white - Grounded using same crimp ring
Yellow - White wire from the DB gauge
Black - wired up to push button switch and LED per instructions


1. You can swap the brown/yellow wires - it's really up to you how you want to do it. Either way, if you use the yellow wire, you'll need to reprogram the yellow wire outputs to match the brown wire. See here for software download and screen shots.
innovatelc1orlm1install [ECMTuning - wiki]

2. You can alternatively split the brown wire (solder 2 wires on the end of the brown wire), and use one to feed the gauge and the other to input to the ECU. This will leave the yellow wire unused and no need to reprogram it.

Bumped from the dead, but right now I am installing the LC-1 without the gauge. It will be going in the O2 housing and I want to simulate narrowband on Link, so Do I cut Pin #4 and wire the brown wire off the Lc-1 to the ecu side of the harness? and what does the Button and the LED do btw? Thanks
-Shane

 

[snowborder714]

Yes.

The button/LED are for calibrating the sensor. These need to be wired in.

 

[BrokenTsi]

I also use the LC-1 with V3. Its awesome. I would suggest keeping the stock o2 sensor in there for the ECU and adding the LC-1 downstream on the exhaust. Not only is it much easier to tune your car, the LC-1 does not like being up close by the turbo. On long road trips the sensor would overheat and shut off the controller. You can try to make a copper gasket/shield for the o2 sensor, but honestly, its just not worth it.

When your wideband sensor craps out, you have no back up to make your car run right. And it will run like garbage if you don't have an o2 sensor to get feedback from.