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ECMlink 1g Knock Sensors

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Got the knock sensor from RTM it definitely looks oem. Same sticker, same style. Looks identical to my oem awful one I pulled out. The length of the wire IS. Shorter but wouldn't make a difference on a 1g I believe. For now I'm going to continue running my used replacement, and I'll keep this one tucked away in a drawer for safe keeping for later.
 

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Alright, who's gonna take a dive and see if they're worth it?

Just found these posted on another "wanted" knock sensor post on Facebook.
I just went ahead and ordered the $10 one. Figured it was my turn. Definitely don’t have my hopes up. Will report back in a month when it gets here.
 
Happy weekend everyone,

This showed up today, it’s the ~$10 AliExpress special. Here’s where I am on it:


I’m honestly surprised, for the price, that it was delivered as pictured wasn’t a 2g type sensor like the eBay ones people have been getting.

I haven’t compared it to OEM bc my good sensor is in an unknown box at the moment.

My car doesn’t and won’t run for a while, if anyone wants to try this one out or if anyone with more knowledge than me on the subject wants to dissect it for some science experiment comparison, I’d be glad to ship it out to someone.

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Happy weekend everyone,

This showed up today, it’s the ~$10 AliExpress special. Here’s where I am on it:


I’m honestly surprised, for the price, that it was delivered as pictured wasn’t a 2g type sensor like the eBay ones people have been getting.

I haven’t compared it to OEM bc my good sensor is in an unknown box at the moment.

My car doesn’t and won’t run for a while, if anyone wants to try this one out or if anyone with more knowledge than me on the subject wants to dissect it for some science experiment comparison, I’d be glad to ship it out to someone.

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That looks surprisingly good haha I would say I would take it or just order myself one, but id be lying if I said I knew what the hell was inside these things to compare between my broken OEM and this one you have

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That looks surprisingly good haha I would say I would take it or just order myself one, but id be lying if I said I knew what the hell was inside these things to compare between my broken OEM and this one you have

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Isn’t it crazy that someone could just buy another one for about what it was cost for me to ship it? Lol

I guess ideally we need someone who has a running car with a known good knock sensor and ecmlink (or another way to monitor knock counts?) who would be willing to swap it out and compare working results.
 
1g knock sensors available here, again.
Just letting all know I found some.
Marty
 
I just finished tuning a 1989 Right hand drive, Galant VR4 with a 1g Ecmlink V3. I used a 99-05 Miata knock sensor as the factory was one shot and the wire tore.

All I did was take the factory connector off the 1G knock sensor and off the Miata sensor and wire it to to the Miata knock sensor. The car worked and performed flawless and the knock sensor functioned as normal during tuning.

So there you have it. A Miata knock sensor is a viable option.
 
I just finished tuning a 1989 Right hand drive, Galant VR4 with a 1g Ecmlink V3. I used a 99-05 Miata knock sensor as the factory was one shot and the wire tore.

All I did was take the factory connector off the 1G knock sensor and off the Miata sensor and wire it to to the Miata knock sensor. The car worked and performed flawless and the knock sensor functioned as normal during tuning.

So there you have it. A Miata knock sensor is a viable option.
Just to be clear, you depinned the connector on the miata sensor and installed those pins into a 1g connector? Or did you have to splice the wires?
 
The Miata connector only has one pin. I cut each connector off, stripped it back to expose the shielded wire and soldered the old connector to the new sensor.
 
The MX5 looks like it has a 2 wire connector on it so you wouldn't have to dig for the shield wire, but they are still pricey. We all still need them though so the number is Standard Motors #KS144
 
I just finished tuning a 1989 Right hand drive, Galant VR4 with a 1g Ecmlink V3. I used a 99-05 Miata knock sensor as the factory was one shot and the wire tore.

All I did was take the factory connector off the 1G knock sensor and off the Miata sensor and wire it to to the Miata knock sensor. The car worked and performed flawless and the knock sensor functioned as normal during tuning.

So there you have it. A Miata knock sensor is a viable option.
Just a question though... how do you KNOW its working right? all we can do is guess unless we have a way to test the output at what frequency. For all we know, that miata sensor operates outside the knock frequency that these engines create during detonation.
 
Just a question though... how do you KNOW its working right? all we can do is guess unless we have a way to test the output at what frequency. For all we know, that miata sensor operates outside the knock frequency that these engines create during detonation.
Also I’m concerned that the “repair” in the wiring would cause a difference in the reading due to a different resistance in the wires. Maybe I’m overthinking it, but I’d be more willing to look into the mx5 sensor that Marty just mentioned.
 
I have already done the repair and finished the car. I assure you it is a one pin connector.

I know it is working correctly as it responded the way I would expect it to through tuning. They are the exact same sensor. If it is anything like any other Mitsubishi product. They all function the same.

I run dsmlink in my Ford Festiva with a 1g ecu using a Miata cam angle sensor. Not trickery was involved.

Again, I have had the part in my hand. It is a 1 pin connector. The shielded wire does not connect to anything like it does on a 1g sensor. You are overthinking it.

After 23 years with the platform, I assure you it isn’t that complicated. And FYI, real systems and real tuners do not use knock sensors. We are just hampered if we are using the factory ecu.

Beck Arnley 158-1039

This is the one I chose as I could get my hands on it quickly.
 
I have already done the repair and finished the car. I assure you it is a one pin connector.

I know it is working correctly as it responded the way I would expect it to through tuning. They are the exact same sensor. If it is anything like any other Mitsubishi product. They all function the same.

I run dsmlink in my Ford Festiva with a 1g ecu using a Miata cam angle sensor. Not trickery was involved.

Again, I have had the part in my hand. It is a 1 pin connector. The shielded wire does not connect to anything like it does on a 1g sensor. You are overthinking it.

After 23 years with the platform, I assure you it isn’t that complicated. And FYI, real systems and real tuners do not use knock sensors. We are just hampered if we are using the factory ecu.

Beck Arnley 158-1039

This is the one I chose as I could get my hands on it quickly.
I mean if its responding the way YOU expect it too, great... anyone can expect something to work differently than how its supposed to. That doesn't make it right. Knock sensors are sensitive and they don't all work the same. Each sensor CAN operate differently, and unless you are able to test the frequency at which they send the knock signal you wont know.

The shielded wire is actually important. it needs to be grounded to the ECU ground so that you don't get any electrical interference with the knock signal.
And FYI, "real" tuners Should utilize knock sensors.. whether they do or not doesn't make them a "REAL Tuner". Yeah you can basically disable it, but would you hang your engine on a chance of bad gas or some other anomaly?
 
would you hang your engine on a chance of bad gas or some other anomaly?
I did that once since I couldn't believe my motor was showing knock at 6* so I moved the sensors "range" way beyond what I knew I was going to run, rpm wise. She ran great, once. I limped home with a melted piston on that 6* max. My knock sensor would have pulled timing as it should in the event the motor see's knock. I won't run without a knock sensor and think it would be unwise to ever do so, unless you have deep pockets to just fix anything that happens to go wrong.
I actually talked face to face with the Standard Motors Electrical Engineer in charge of these sensors and although they do look the same, the feedback they give does vary according to him. He told me they outsourced the 1g sensors and no longer produced them but thought a Taiwan company (or somewhere like that) was reproducing them if they were still being made. This was just last year when we talked at my grandsons birthday party. Good conversation.
 
Again, I have been doing this for 23 years. I have built more wiring harnesses from scratch for Mitsubishi’s than you have likely owned.

keep your tin foil hat on and let the big boys do their work. If you think knock sensor tuning is the end all, by all means hombre.

Spark plugs, experience and not being an retard is how the real men do it. And if you are smart enough, a Dyno can tell you as well if you are not smart enough to read a spark plug.

sorry bro, I am not some 15 year old video gamer. This is someone with real experience who actually knows how things work. And no one ever said I didn’t measure this sensor.
 
What did the sensor measure? The engineer still works there, I can relay it to him to see if it is the same or close.
 
Again, I have been doing this for 23 years. I have built more wiring harnesses from scratch for Mitsubishi’s than you have likely owned.

keep your tin foil hat on and let the big boys do their work. If you think knock sensor tuning is the end all, by all means hombre.

Spark plugs, experience and not being an retard is how the real men do it. And if you are smart enough, a Dyno can tell you as well if you are not smart enough to read a spark plug.

sorry bro, I am not some 15 year old video gamer. This is someone with real experience who actually knows how things work. And no one ever said I didn’t measure this sensor.
Indeed you have, but then again I've seen doctors that don't have common sense either...
I never said a knock sensor was end all for tuning. Sure you can run without out. Its just not smart, IMO. If you're having with a simple knock sensor, and have to disable it, there's likely a bigger issue
Never said or assumed you were some 15 year old gamer.. assuming you have a Sound Spectrum Analyzer, what did it measure at?
Just because you run without one, or modded another to make it work how YOU want it, doesn't make us wrong either.

What's the point of even hooking up a knock sensor if you're just going to choose to ignore one of its crucial components, or disable it all together?
What about the flex fuel street car guys that run 91/93 and e85? Should they just disable the knock sensor too and pray they dont get a tank of shitty gas?
 
keep your tin foil hat on and let the big boys do their work. If you think knock sensor tuning is the end all, by all means hombre.

Spark plugs, experience and not being an retard is how the real men do it. And if you are smart enough, a Dyno can tell you as well if you are not smart enough to read a spark plug.
Alright guys, let's keep it respectful please. This isn't FB. ☣️
 
You are only limited to using a knock sensor with a factory ecu. You have no choice but, to have it in the system. It will pull all of the timing to a fixed value(in Dsmlink at least). You cannot run without one(in dsmlink). I know, I have tried to force it.

no aftermarket system utilizes a knock sensor. Sure you can wire one in if you choose to but, no one is running them. If it is true knock and detonation, a little sensor isn’t going so save your engine. It is over before the sensor can do it’s job. Like I said, real tuners and engine builders do not use them.

if you are scared to run the Mazda piece(which is made by Mitsubishi), then don’t. No one is forcing you. Continue hope you can find what you need while other less critical hot rodders will make use of parts they can get their hands on and make work correctly with little effort.
 
Well I will call you out on that one! If I had my knock sensor "active" in the rpm range that it WAS seeing knock, it would have pulled timing on it AND saved a piston/engine from a meltdown.
Real tuners don't brag about being "real tuners".
But I am a Real Engine Builder and have been since 1978.
What "measurement" did you get with that sensor? I want to ask the Engineer.
Marty
 
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