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1G 1g drops 2/3 spark after startup

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perrytheplatypus157

Proven Member
81
44
Jun 18, 2017
Fall River, Wisconsin
Looking for some advice. Took my car for a drive after sitting since the shootout. Car warmed up in my driveway. It’s been warmed up once before without issues. After being warmed up, I drove it. After about 2 miles of 35-40 mph driving, my car dropped cylinders 2/3. They came back in for about 45 more seconds before they went out completely. I pulled over and tried to restart the car. During cranking, all four would fire and the car would come alive, then immediately drop the same 2/3 coil again.
I brought it home, verified spark on 2/3 only happens during cranking and maybe a split second after. The car throws an 044 ignition circuit malfunction CEL. Once it’s out of startup, they drop again. so from there, I swapped coils (both ohmed out well), CAS, PTU, dynatek, tach box all one at a time to look for any difference. It acted the same way the whole time. I also verified grounds since I have all external components come to a common ground connected directly to the battery. Tried a different battery too. Weirdly, the dynatek status led illuminates when key on and cranking, but shuts off after startup as well. I've also noticed the car runs on all four just a little bit longer when I let it sit for a little bit. What am I missing ladies and gents? Any help is greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long post but I figured the more info the better. I will be testing/measuring all of my spare electrical parts tomorrow to verify the swapped parts were any good.
 
I am guessing ecu also from what I am reading, there is board level signal processing that could have some sort of problem with corrosion or component failure.
 
Appreciate the quick responses. I have a buddy with a spare ecu that I will try tonight. I’ll will get back with an answer either way. The more I think about it, the more it makes sense but who knows. I’ll find out soon enough
 
Try the Ignition Control Module / power transistor first. You can get them at any parts store.

When mine went out the car would start, but as soon as it warmed up it would die and not start again. They can cause all sorts of weird issues though.
 
The OP mentioned he changed the PTU I’m going to lean ECU. Have you checked your caps? A fishy smell is also a sign that the caps are eating the board. Either way with a spare ECU you’ll know the issue. If that doesn’t do it you will have to check your wiring from the ECU pins to the PTU and then PTU to the coils. The cranking could connect the power on a bad wire causing it to work for a moment.
 
For those interested and future reference, I found this issue to be the actual c-60 connector on the ecu. I can wiggle the pins and the car runs, but as soon as I wiggle the connector, it loses continuity. I tried another ecu to verify that the issue isn’t a messed up ecu prong, and nothing changed. As far as the connector is concerned, is there a way to tighten the female pins so they apply more pressure on the male ecu prongs? They all have a small amount of play in and out, but it would be nice to get rid of any play.
 
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For those interested and future reference, I found this issue to be the actual c-60 connector on the ecu. I can wiggle the pins and the car runs, but as soon as I wiggle the connector, it loses continuity. I tried another ecu to verify that the issue isn’t a messed up ecu prong, and nothing changed. As far as the connector is concerned, is there a way to tighten the female pins so they apply more pressure on the male ecu prongs? They all have a small amount of play in and out, but it would be nice to get rid of any play.
You can buy depinning tools then you've got just a single pin you can work with and possibly repair.
 
I did exactlythat. I have depinning tools around and reshaped the pins accordingly. For some reason, the 2/3 coil and the 4/1 coil both had ugly looking pins. It’s Pin 54 and 55 if I recall correctly. With the pins reformed, I started the car and maneuvered the ecu back into the radio area. I jostled the ecu around a little to verify well mated plugs, and the pins didn’t lose connection. At least I know what to look for if it happens again.
 
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