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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

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Well new master cylinder came in. Got the old one out with relatively no big issues but it was crusty as hell. While replacing it I decided to replace the master pin, plastic washer, and plastic insert and a new cotter pin. That plastic insert was such a pain to get in without taking anything apart but I got it after awhile (and almost losing it when it slipped out my fingers 3 times)

Also, SCREW using a cotter pin up there.. I just swapped the cotter pin for one of these push retaining pins from my shift linkage on the trans. SO much easier than having to try and bend the pins up there.

New master in, I made sure to extend the rod basically so it was flush with the inside of the "U" shaped.. bolt?

Bled the clutch as best I can and...
The damn thing STILL won't go into gear.

All that's left is
Clutch pedal assembly has too much play (which it doesn't seem like it does)

I SOMEHOW managed to out the clutch disk in BACKWARDS (this would absolutely suck)

Flywheel step height is incorrect (this would also absolutely suck)

Is it even possible to put the disk in backwards? Looking at my old one the protruding part of the disk facing outwards (while correctly installed) would have to share a common area with the flywheel bolts and if you managed to snug everything up without noticing that, id be VERY surprised.

Not a single store around me has speed bleeders so I had to resort to ordering some.

Is it possible that I need to shim the pivot ball even MORE? Buddy sent me a video of his, and he has quite a bit more of travel in his slave. Same clutch kit, oem everything including clutch fork and pivot ball. He doesn't have a shim either..

Any tips you guys can think of?
*Added* video of slave travel


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I got an idea I'm gonna try tomorrow. I have a couple spots in my slave line where it sits higher than other spots, so I'm gonna try and see if I can just make a constant downslope in the line to make sure there's no air stuck in those high spots. Maybe that's part of the reason or something.

Worth a shot!
 
By chance do you remember if your throughout bearing and or the pilot bearing were the same width as the replacement parts?
 
By chance do you remember if your throughout bearing and or the pilot bearing were the same width as the replacement parts?
No pilot bearings in manual dsms, only autos.
@Anfurnyy only thing left is shim the pivot ball or play in the pedal assembly. Fork seems to be dead center to me. Have you tried to back the pivot ball out?
 
No pilot bearings in manual dsms, only autos.
@Anfurnyy only thing left is shim the pivot ball or play in the pedal assembly. Fork seems to be dead center to me. Have you tried to back the pivot ball out?
That's what it seems like to me as well. Unless I am just not getting all the air out. I did NOT bench bleed either the slave or master. I'm going to pull the slave off the bell housing and see if I can gravity bleed some of it to start with and a buddy is going to come over and help me bleed it.

I would have thought that over 3mm of shims would have done the job But maybe not. The fork is on a little towards the driver side, it's hard to get a picture dead on since the motor mount and subframe is in the way.

I'll try and get a better video of the pedal play. If I had to guess, the pedal itself pulls up maybe another 1/4 inch after I let off the clutch.
 
No pilot bearings in manual dsms, only autos.
@Anfurnyy only thing left is shim the pivot ball or play in the pedal assembly. Fork seems to be dead center to me. Have you tried to back the pivot ball out?
I should also ask, how much play should be in the clutch fork between when it hits the pressure plate, and the back of the input shaft? Should it basically sit right on the pressure plate with barely any back and forth movement?
 
I should also ask, how much play should be in the clutch fork between when it hits the pressure plate, and the back of the input shaft? Should it basically sit right on the pressure plate with barely any back and forth movement?
So you did shim the pivot ball. Hmmm
I don’t think there should be any movement on the fork with slave installed. I’ll double check mine

Edit there’s no play in the fork. I can not push it to the left but obviously can push it the right (back into the slave)
 
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Do you have a oem slave cylinder, the autozone one is different from oem. im doing mine now replaced it and waiting to get some stuff done im right there too.
 
Do you have a oem slave cylinder, the autozone one is different from oem. im doing mine now replaced it and waiting to get some stuff done im right there too.
Think he did switch to oem
 
So I tried to bleed again and disconnected the line from the firewall to make it straight and that didnt work. I also squeezed the slave back into itself when i cracked the bleeder open to see if there was air stuck in the slave itself but that also didnt work. I also removed the slave line and removed that little spring and whatever you wanna call that thing in there that makes the fluid slow down in the slave. Thanks Jafro!

really only Thing left is the pedal assembly and the flywheel step height.

So I started the steering wheel delete mod to take out the pedal assembly last night. got down to the point where I need to remove the little fuse panel on the driver side and need to pull out the brake booster and the clutch master and then the few bolts on that far left side and it should be ready to come out. I got in on the group buy from Pats all bronze bushing pedal assembly bushing kit here: https://dsmmachining.com/product/1gen-dsm-pedal-assembly-bushings/ and i think ill have it welded and pray that it doesnt weaken anything and cause issues down the road.

going to try and knock out removing the assembly today after work.

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Here's a couple videos of the play I was able to get as well as the slave after removing that restrictor in the clutch line banjo inlet.
YouTube stupid algorithm makes vertical videos that are shorted than 60 seconds shorts and not regular videos, so sorry about that.

Pedal assembly nut:

Clutch pedal itself:

Slave travel test 3:
 
Looks like there’s not enough travel of the slave. Hopefully it is the pedal assembly.
yeah, comparing to my buddies, his literally has probably double the travel. Which leads me to think either the pedal assembly or I suck at bleeding and theres still air in the line. we'll see what happens after the pedal rebuild.
 
So i got the pedal assembly out. Honestly, this wasnt that hard. I think putting the turbo in was much harder and more frustrating that pulling the assembly.
The most frustrating part of pulling it was getting the brake booster far enough away from the firewall so that you can slide the assembly down.

Anyways i took it apart and surprisingly, it looks okay. The keyed (for lack of better term) part of the lever isnt wobbled out or anything and neither is the clutch master dowel spot.
I actually put the lever on and it still moved.. so hopefully i dont need a whole new clutch rod. I guess if i do, its not that big of a deal since im waiting for the bushings anyways. I took a video and ill link it.

With it out of the car i cleaned up all the grease, oil and dirt that was all over it and i painted it black! Theres some runs, but it looks much better and sleeker than it did before. Im pretty stoked about it.

Video here, remember this is with the NEW Lever:


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Well while the car is down for a little bit, I'm taking this opportunity to fix something's that were supposed to be temporary fixes. Such as the spacers on the throttle body, and CAS studs. Since the engine hoise bracket doesn't fit because the AN lines on the passenger side, I had to improvise and buy some spacers so that the nuts would torque.

MAN breaking all of those studs loose absolutely sucked. I had to heat the head and manifold where the threads went into and use vice grips in order to break them out. The double nut method did NOT work, right off the bat but did after they broke loose.

For anyone wondering, the throttle body AND CAS studs are all m8x1.25 size.

I used a 38mm long stud for the CAS and I'm going to use a 90mm for the throttle body. I'm assuming these sizes should work for most anyone, obviously give or take a few mm depending on your throttle body flange thickness too. I got my CAS studs from Ace Hardware, but they didn't have a 90mm stud or a bolt for that matter that was long enough AND had threads on both ends.

Menards is where I'll head next, and if they don't got it maybe Fastenal

Oh, a neat thing too. If you're in a pinch, you can use your exhaust manifold studs for your CAS studs as well.

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Man I have been all over town trying to find a long m8-1.25 x 90mm stud, or at least a fully threaded bolt I could cut the head off and NOTHING. I have seen some Allen bolts though. Anyone ever convert to those? Seems like a Allen socket could fit on the front side ones easy enough. Is there enough of a clamping difference that someone couldn't just swap to Allen head bolts?
 
I ended up going back to menards and they actually had some 100mm threaded rods, unfortunately only a 4.5 grade.. but maybe they'll hold up? If anyone wants to know the info here it is:
https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444440231394.htm
Anyways I said I was going to use a 90mm stud and I did..it's a little short. 95 or maybe even 100mm is pretty much perfect I backed my stud out about 2 turns from being bottomed out and it seemed to be okay. The picture with the nuts on is before I backed the stud out.

I used red locktite.. hopefully that wasn't a mistake.

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Still waiting for the bushing kit for the pedal assembly to get here.
I finally got around to pulling the inner tie rod and end. This thing is so trashed.

it took me like almost 2 hours to break the damn thin out of the knuckle. Alternating between dead blow, regular hammer, a torch, penetrating oil. I finally got it out by heating the kuckle up good, spraying some penetrating oil, wedging my 3 ft breaker bar under my sway bar and on top of the tie rod and smacked it with the regular hammer and it FINALLY came out. I have a new Moog inner and outter to replace it with. Im picking up a tool today to get the inner off.

Ive been looking at some cams for the talon, and im not sure what i should get. Ill be eventually going to a JMFab intake manifold and something like a 6466 or similar later on down the road. Ill be buying my other 1ga Buddies current SMIM from him as thats the route he's going as well.
I know i wanna do either GSC S2 or S3's.
Im just stuck on whether or not i should spring for the S3's before im really ready for them, for future proofing or go with the s2's since ill be riding out on the FPRed for awhile?
those will get paired with AEM cam gears, and Kiggly street steel springs.

Went ahead and placed an order for Balance shaft delete kit, ARP Main studs, Kiggly Girdle and Those Kiggly valve springs mentioned above. Ill update again when i get those

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Still waiting for the bushings to come in. I saw that they were supposed to ship out today!
I was going back and forth about buying S2 cams and Aem cam gears last week but decided not to.
I was browsing online and found them at Vividracing.com. I they had the cams listed for $522 for the set, i found a code online "20off" and it took $20 off, bringing the total to 500 shipped! They are normally $600 cams by themselves and then usually shipping too! I ended up doing the same thing for the cam gears and got them for $250 shipped with code "new20" ill update again when they come in.
 
So apparently the S2 cams are discontinued? Or maybe they're just backordered from GSC. Got this email from vivid racing. I don't really wanna step down the the S1s... So I guess I'll step up to the S3s?? Those are definitely overkill for what I have now but they are pretty future proof for what I'll want to do with the car.

Opinions?

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