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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

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You would think the old extended slave rod would help, but the issue then is over extending or pre loading? However if the extended rod gives the added travel of the tob you could add a pedal stop, like twin disc users to keep the fingers on the pressure plate happy, I don’t know, I’m just thinking and like you I just want what I have to work. My SouthBend set up holds torque, engages smooth, just needs more tob travel, I rebuilt my pedal assembly last winter, I have immediate master rod engagement as soon as I depress the pedal who knows LOL I still don’t want an auto..

Does your southbend grind going in to gear like it’s not fully disengaging? Is that what you mean by more TOB travel?
 
When it’s in its proper adjustment range it doesn’t grind, lately I just haven’t been able to get it to fully release no matter the adjustment, it still rolls a little at 7 grand on a clutch drag test. I did however notice a tiny bit of fluid the other day from the seal on the master under the dash, she’s got some miles on her so I’m also going to be swapping out my master and re bleeding again like I did a month ago with the new slave. I think it’s a great all around clutch, but again i still think we’re just asking a lot from the factory hydraulic system with heavy singles.

I’m pretty well determined now to go twin, but with only 1200 miles on this clutch/flywheel I want to get more use out of it for sure, and just get it adjusted/bled the best I can so I can enjoy the car without pissing off the synchros too bad LOL
 
When it’s in its proper adjustment range it doesn’t grind, lately I just haven’t been able to get it to fully release no matter the adjustment, it still rolls a little at 7 grand on a clutch drag test. I did however notice a tiny bit of fluid the other day from the seal on the master under the dash, she’s got some miles on her so I’m also going to be swapping out my master and re bleeding again like I did a month ago with the new slave. I think it’s a great all around clutch, but again i still think we’re just asking a lot from the factory hydraulic system with heavy singles.

Still kinda worries me NGL. Wonder if the clutch itself is just too thick or something for our applications.
 
Still kinda worries me NGL. Wonder if the clutch itself is just too thick or something for our applications.
It's an incredibly unfortunate downfall of this platform. I guess I was spoiled with the 6mt out of my STI. Expecting that the hydraulic system should just work but I shouldn't have assumed.

There seems to be a whole finger pointing scenario happening when clutches don't disengage and there so many things it could be.

In my case:
2 1g OEM slaves
1 2g OEM slave ( currently installed)
2 OEM Master cylinders
1 Wildwood master cylinder ( currently installed)
1 OEM hard-line ( currently installed)
1 OEM braided steel
Clutch pedals been welded
1 act 6 puck sprung (RIP)
1 act 6 puck solid disk (RIP)
Countless bleeding sessions, manual 2 person, vacuum bled, 2 sets of speed bleeders, adjusted the master rod every way to Sunday.

I have NOT:
Pulled pressure plate and test disengagement on a press with feeler gauges. But honestly, that seems extreme for just needing to have a properly setup clutch engagement/disengagement.

At this point I'm just ready to move to a twin and have a properly disengaging clutch. I'll deal with the consequences later LOL
 


13 years ago. Self re built synchro trans with a twin disc clutch. Stock tcase, hd driveshaft and stock 4 bolt rear end.

Still kinda worries me NGL. Wonder if the clutch itself is just too thick or something for our applications.
Another thing tho is your on an SS plate correct? I’d imagine with a new master/slave and properly functioning pedal assembly you shouldn’t have any worries getting that 2200# plate to release:thumb:
 


13 years ago. Self re built synchro trans with a twin disc clutch. Stock tcase, hd driveshaft and stock 4 bolt rear end.


Another thing tho is your on an SS plate correct? I’d imagine with a new master/slave and properly functioning pedal assembly you shouldn’t have any worries getting that 2200# plate to release:thumb:


Yes. Just an SS plate. So that’s good to hear and comforts me.


Sorry for derailing your thread broseph, but I appreciate the help!
 
Made another post specifically about my clutch disengagement issues. It got some attention. it was recommended to go back to the factory 1g slave, and that my pressure plate step height seems fine. POST

Decided to give the ol 6 puck one last try so i ordered up another solid disk and going to try it. I got the disk Yesterday and just got most of the car back together with the exception of the turbo setup, reason being is that the turbo has to come off again to swap turbine housings.

PXL_20240423_220712008.jpgPXL_20240423_221001809.jpgPXL_20240424_012235454.jpg

I think i mentioned in an earlier post that when i put this new .83 housing on, the gap between the wheel and the housing seemed pretty large. I sent pictures of the turbine housing/wheel to my turbo guy and compared it to a picture of a housing off Pulsars site.
Big difference in the gap between them.
MinePXL_20240416_221516421.jpg
PulsarPXL_20240416_233149857.jpg

Turns out, due to some miscommunication, i was sent a Gen 3 housing, instead of a Gen 2. Theres about 6 mm difference on the inducer side, and 4mm difference on the exducer side of the turbine wheel:
Gen 2:
68/62
Gen 3:
74/66

SO we've already got the correct housing on the way and ill get that installed ASAP. Should see a significant decrease in spool time, hopefully with the correct fitting housing.

Got my Quaife front diff in also.
PXL_20240418_220603069.jpg
 
Alrighty boys so here's the big reveal.
My Brother and I drove down to Cheyenne, WY and back yesterday (about a 10 hour round trip) to pick this ol girl up wait for it...

FOR FREE.
Yes, thats right. FREE.

PXL_20240505_225257584.PORTRAIT.jpg

Its not perfect condition but there isnt any significant body damage and no major rust (none under the car that ive seen yet) There are 2 small pockets; one inside the top of the drive side door jamb, and another under the moulding on the passenger side.
The paint is decent, it definitely needs some work. Lots of scratches and chips and the paint clearcoat has faded in quite a few areas, including the wing.

It came with a slew of other parts that i havent quite inventoried yet, but includes:
Oem Driveshaft
Oem Manifold
14b Turbo
OEM Talon wheel WITH center caps
Holset Compressor and Turbine housings
1 Treadstone turbo manifold w/2 bolt ewg port
1 stock manifold
about 2 cars worth of interior parts
2 Megan downpipes BNIB
a tote full of OEM parts, pullyes, timing covers belts, oil pan etc.
3 bolt axle
viscous rear diff
RUST FREE fuel tank
Ugly ass DEPO tail lights

As it sits right now, the blue car is going to be a donor car basically and i plan on selling it once i get everything removed.
PXL_20240506_122137926.jpgPXL_20240506_122134642.jpgPXL_20240506_122013475.jpgPXL_20240506_121917209.jpgPXL_20240506_121857485.jpgPXL_20240506_121811083.jpgPXL_20240506_121808972.jpgPXL_20240506_121805308.jpgPXL_20240506_121750603.jpgPXL_20240506_010315511.jpgPXL_20240505_191350992.jpgPXL_20240505_191225544.jpgPXL_20240505_191141578.jpgPXL_20240505_191120097.jpgPXL_20240505_191116469.jpgPXL_20240505_191109752.jpgPXL_20240505_191101880.jpgPXL_20240505_191058290.jpgPXL_20240505_191044705.jpgPXL_20240505_191040926.jpgPXL_20240505_191024625.jpgPXL_20240505_191017307.jpgPXL_20240505_191014454.jpgPXL_20240505_191006107.jpgPXL_20240505_191003332.jpgPXL_20240505_190956802.jpg

PXL_20240505_191232586.jpg
 
Dude you were in my backyard LOL, I’m assuming that was a Facebook marketplace find? I’m not on Facebook so I’m never aware of what’s for sale, anyways that’s a nice score for free holy cow :hellyeah:

So were you just really wanting a 1ga? Your 1gb talon looks pretty clean to be switching from that to the red one, either way, I’m sure the swap will be fun:)
 
Dude you were in my backyard LOL, I’m assuming that was a Facebook marketplace find? I’m not on Facebook so I’m never aware of what’s for sale, anyways that’s a nice score for free holy cow :hellyeah:
Yeah kind of, he had a post on Facebook for a Partouts late last year and I hit him up and asked about the chassis and he basically just says "come get it" can't beat free!

So were you just really wanting a 1ga? Your 1gb talon looks pretty clean to be switching from that to the red one, either way, I’m sure the swap will be fun:)
Yeah I've come to really like the 1ga's quite a bit. I don't mind putting in the work to clean up the red one.

The blue one is clean but I absolutely hate the paint and really like the body lines of the ga and the headlights. Everything just looks more aggressive, IMO.
 
This is BS. Blocked.


:p

But seriously, nice score. God do I want a good clean 1GA shell that I can just swap all my stuff into. But honestly by the time I find out I’ll have everything ironed out with this one.

Regardless, I’m a pop up fanboy so I approve wholeheartedly.
 
Probably not, swapping over all the interior as well and wanting to still keep it very "streetcar" esque.

That's what I like to hear.

Not hating or throwing shade to the people that do this, but I just don't get excited in the pants when I see ANOTHER gutted tin-can DSM with a side-exit exhaust.
 
That's what I like to hear.

Not hating or throwing shade to the people that do this, but I just don't get excited in the pants when I see ANOTHER gutted tin-can DSM with a side-exit exhaust.
Same here. Theres just no bigger big balls move than gapping just about everything on the street with full interior and a/c in a 90s shitbox 🤷LOL
 
Same here. Theres just no bigger big balls move than gapping just about everything on the street with full interior and a/c in a 90s shitbox 🤷LOL

Called “fast with class” and I hope we bring it back one day!

So much win.
 
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