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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Gotcha. You can use the egr for fan control if you'd like. The expansion harness has a 5v out that should give you all the 5v power you need. If you need a 12v relay board then something like this would be perfect:
I'm actually using 2 of the outputs from the ISC motor to control 2 separate fan relays since those wires are already on the passenger side and are easier ran to the fans.

Ill keep that it mind. Right now I think I might just use a small Busbar since I've only got the can relay being powered by 12v.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Tiny update but excited to share.
I got my new momentary switch for rolling antilag in and found what I think is a suitable spot for it. Measured and drilled it out.

Unfortunately the console is much thicker than I thought and I can't thread the locking ring in there, but it's so tight it's basically a press fit. Maybe I'll revisit this later and drill out bigger hole in the back half since the console is two layer plastic.
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I've also decided to label this button for the people who will ask what it does. :D
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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Was able to finish up the battery relocation to the trunk. Crimped the new cables on and got the box installed and sealed. Looks pretty good!
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I VERY crudely wired up the engine bay for power so that I could test to make sure the ECU still powered on, as well as test my Antilag button and see if my CAN stuff would power up and test the DBW.
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3/4 of these worked! The button works and Link sees that it activates when I press the switch, and the ECU still powers on and the biggest one of all the Pedal actually works! I was able to calibrate it and use the pedal to open the throttle!
Antilag button:

DBW test

The CAN stuff however wouldn't power on. I used a 12v wire direct from the engine bay to the relay 12v power dist block, grounded the relay, and used one additional 5v wire to activate the relay. But no matter what I did I could NOT get it power to pass through the relay.

On the relay, I verified that pin 30 had 12v, verified ground continuity on pin 85, verified that 86 has 5v when the key was powered on, but not once would pin 87 receive the 12v from pin 30. I can hear the relay switching closed, and physically feel it. I swapped in another relay (same exact relay) and the same result. I'm really not sure what else to do. Other than try an entire new relay?
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I heard back from the Niko about my compressor housing and the housing should be shipped out Monday so hopefully I'll have the turbo soon.
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DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,202
1,794
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
The CAN stuff however wouldn't power on. I used a 12v wire direct from the engine bay to the relay 12v power dist block, grounded the relay, and used one additional 5v wire to activate the relay. But no matter what I did I could NOT get it power to pass through the relay.
If it's a 12v relay, you can't activate it perfectly with 5v. You need 12v.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I forgot to include in my last update, ordered up some Feal 441+ Coilovers for the car as well.
Opted for the Radial Bearings and the Swift Spring upgrades.

3-4 Week lead time on those so till be just over another 2 weeks for those to come in.

I have been very impatiently waiting for my manifold from Morrisonfab.. not bashing them at all im just super excited to see how this turbo and everything will look installed!

need to climb back under the car to finish up a few things:
Install the last fuel line holder (had to be sent an extra as mine was missing one)
Torque down my end links
Torque down sway bar mounts
Remove the rest of the Exhaust

Still need to finish up a ton of wiring. A few challenges ahead are mounting the fan relays, mounting the power and ground distribution blocks in the engine bay, and mounting the new Fuse box for the MPI and Starter..
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Another Small update but an important one for me.
I was able to wire in a test 12v wire to the switch source for the relay but the gauge still didnt come on. As it turns out i had my can Wires switched 180* around with the Power and Ground. Flipped em in the connector and then the Gauge, AND i did the same exact thing on my CAN Lambda controller too. Whoops.


After getting them all swapped correctly the gauge powered on and i was able to setup CAN stuff in the PC Link Software. Can gauge displays Throttle position and Lambda now! I have some more customizing i need to do to get the gauge to display what i want it to though but that will come later.
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I connected my phone to the ECU using RealDash app and got some of it working but damn that app seems confusing to me. Ill work on figuring that out later. Im hoping to use an old phone for Cruise control but i definitely need to learn more about CAN and how to set it up so that i can do that.

Im also realizing now that i need a oil pressure sensor wired in too.
And again i forgot i need to wire in my knock sensor, AND solder in a jumper to the back of the ECU to connect the knock pin.

Got around to making some fuel lines for the engine bay. I finished the filter to the rail one, and was only 1/2 able to make the rail to regulator size since i was missing a fitting for the regulator side.
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i also ordered up some fittings to start making the coolant lines for the Turbo. In case anyone needs to know, the fittings for a Garrett CHRA are an m14 x 1.5 Banjo. I plan on using AN fittings off the thermostat housing and an adapter off the coolant pipe behind the turbo as well. Hoping that ill be able to use all AN to keep it clean.

I got an email from both Matt @ Morrison Fab, says the Hot parts kit wont be done until late November. Sad but im in no real hurry but to just have it. One of those Hurry up and wait type of deals. Also got an email from Feal with shipping info! Should be here next week!

Anyways, its coming along nicely.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Well, looks like I'll be using another thermostat housing.

Got my final adapter in which is a 3/8-19 BSPT -6an adapter and threaded it in. Snugged it with a socket and a wratchet holding both in my hands and then went to remove it after making sure it threaded in and PRESTO. Pulled the threads off the adapter. They are stuck in the housing.. big sad. Was a really nice housing too.
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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Pulled out my backup thermostat housing. It was pretty nasty. I decided to transfer everything over and freshen it up with a coat of hi temp caliper paint. I'm thinking about having someone media blast the inside of it to clean out out good. The paint turned out pretty good in my opinion.
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Finished up the 2nd fuel line off the rail and then turned to my staging brake and got that plumbed in now as well. From what I read, using the top right port should lock up the passenger front and driver rear.
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Engine bay is still a mess. I can't wait to wrap up these wires and clean it all up but man that's a lot of work.
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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Got sent home Monday because COVID finally caught up to me. Fear not, i felt 98% fine other than sinus pressure. I took this time (near 20 hours over 3 days) to work on the car and really try to knock some stuff out.

First thing on the list was to clean up and finalize the wiring for the ECU. Honestly this took me quite a while if not most of the day on Monday. Just kind of one little thing after another having to cut an solder more wires because i didnt plan ahead far enough to route them accordingly so they wouldnt get tangled around one another in the wrong orientation. After awhile i was able to get it figured out.
I got the 12v trigger wire connected to relay and made sure it worked with Key on only and it did.

I drilled and rivnutted the wall of the radio cubby so that i could mount the relay behind where the 3 gauges will sit and grounded the relay as well as the CAN Flying lead back here too on a bolt.
Stuffed the ECU back into its spot BUT i found that the ecu case doesnt actually reach to the driver side mounts? Are there different ECU cases for different cars? Ill have to figure that out. As of right now the ECU is fully mounted by the passenger side tab and the bolt. Got the wires all routed and tucked in a way that i think is okay on top of the shifter cables. Got the interior pieces all installed and bolted up, Damn is nice to see a clear floorboard.
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Quickly mounted up the last Fuel Line/Brake line holder And then Turned to removing the Exhaust This was a pretty simple but frustrating bit.. Whoever put this muffler on welded it to the frame of the car at the back.. i had to pry part of it off to get it all removed.
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I have a Megan 2.5-3" downpipe for sale now if anyone wants it..

Got my BCS Bolted up onto the radiator, more towards driver side hopefully more of the way of the manifold.
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I remembered that i had some literal gold for these cars. THE FENDER LINERS. I only got the passenger side one installed but damn thats nice. Ill never understand why people remove these. The driver side is missing the inner cover right in front of the Crank pulley but i do have the front Liner part still. Ill try to get it installed and see if its still sturdy enough by itself or not.
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Moved onto the Radiator fan wiring. I messed around here for a bit to route the wires and to find a decent out of the way of the intercooler piping location, and a place that wasnt going to be a sight for sore eyes. I actually Settled on just in front of the passenger side Fender line on the outside of the frame. I drilled and used some Rivnuts here and then grounded the wires to an existing bolt hole, and then ran the connector wires to the fans through the giant hole right above for the OEM intake and then basically followed the OEM body harness over to just under the fans. I decided to run the ground for the fan connectors to just behind the passenger side headlight where there is also an existing bolt hole. I made the harness's a bit too long so i had to loop the extra up where i mounted the relays. I used some plastic loom covering to cover the wires since this area is exposed by the bumper and could see some weather and wanted to protect them. I still need to run the switch sources to the old ISC motors, ASSUMING that they output a 12v to actually activate them.
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As I was installing these relays and getting it tidied up my Coilovers showed up!
I went to work getting these installed doing the fronts first. Now let me mention these arent a perfect bolt on. I was hoping for almost $2k they would be but not so much. Slight modifications are necessary.
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So here's the scoop on it. the mount up to the knuckle and strut towers just fine but its the brake lines. The OEM Brake line fits but its to narrow to fit around the mounting tab on the lower mount. You have to bend the oem bracket apart to make it fit. After that they pretty much Bolt in, no big deal but plan ahead and maybe bend them apart while the oem struts are still installed and the brackets are mounted.

The Rears were a bit harder to remove the old struts, kind of expected for these old struts. I had to cut the old bushings halfway off to begin with and then heat up the metal sleeve and get some vice grips on it and twist it off. After that i used a wire wheel and cleaned off the lower strut shaft on the knuckle. I greased up the shaft and the lower coilover mount hole and slid it on and bolted up just fine. Now the brakes for these rear. The coilovers came with a sort of universal mount with a clamp with basically a nut welded onto a metal tab bolted to it. So, my issue is that the tab is also too thick for the OEM rear brake bracket once again but you can orient it so that the bolt passes through the mounting bracket first and then into the provided mounting tab. Another issue i found after doing this is that the brake line either touches the upper control arm, and if you rotate it so it doesn't anymore then the side of the line that actually goes into the brake seems to be a little taught.. more so that id like it to be.
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I finished up by setting the coilover height and then i sealed my sensors up on the thermostat housing including the new 3/8 > AN adapter.
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Pretty damn good progress over the last couple days.. Waiting on manifold to mount up the Turbo and make all the lines for it, and obviously have the rest of the exhaust made, intercooler piping and finish up wrapping up the wiring.
 
Last edited:

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Its been some time since my last update.
I haven't really done a whole lot since the last update with the weather getting cold. I have a garage heater but havent wired it up yet.

Really all thats been done since my last update is ive temporarily mounted the power and ground distribution posts under where the battery tray was. Mounted into 2 existing bolt holes.
And when i went to replace the ball joint on the passenger side, i noticed that the wheel bearing seemed bad. So ive removed the ball joint and the entire knuckle to replace the wheel bearing also.
The dust Shield on the back side of the bearing looked pretty rough and rusted. I think i used a 1 1/2" wire wheel to clean out the ball joint hole in the control arm and it really worked wonders.
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I ended up having to order a ball joint press and a bearing puller, and im planning on getting a shop press for the holidays so ill be able to more easily remove and press on bearings. With that press i think i might also pull the transmission and see about a rebuild, or at the very least check out the Gear stacks and figure out why its grinding into 2nd and 3rd. My guess is a synchro but i could definitely be wrong as i'm not super familiar but willing to learn!

I was able to get the new ball joints in but for the life of me i cannot get this stupid snap ring in. I ordered a flathead style snap ring pliers but i cant seem to get the ring to widen enough to fall into place without it shooting off the pliers.

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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
After 27 weeks, and 3 days (whos counting 🤷‍♂️)
My @MorrisonFab Hot parts kit is finally on its way!
This thing is absolutely beautiful and absolutely worth the wait
Matt Emailed me a few weeks ago and has been in touch since sending me updates on the kit and yesterday he got it all finished up and sent out! It should be here Tuesday.
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When that comes in I should be able to knock out all the feed and return lines pretty quickly.
Still Lots to do on the car:
* Finish Wiring and Looming
* Oil pressure gauge
* Mount up the Staging Brake
* Intercooler Piping
* Exhaust Piping
* Intercooler Modification to fit inlet/Outlet
* Reseal my Tcase
* Possibly Check Transmission
* Wheel bearings at least on front

Probably other things im forgetting too but that seems to be the jist of it.
 
Last edited:

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Look what showed up Monday!
It looks even better in person
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i got right to it, getting it mocked up. One of the best things is that i can pull this entire assembly out, minus the downpipe off without removing Anything. Manifold, turbo, Wastegate and dump tube all at the same time.

This is just a rough mockup just making sure everything will fit. I Still need to clock everything correctly including the compressor housing.

I also need to figure out routing of the Coolant lines now as well as the Oil Feed.

Anyone have a preference of running the oil feed line in front of the Manifold or Behind the manifold between that and the block? If i go behind the manifold ill probably end up putting some sort of thermal blanket on the line.

I also ordered a Carbon fiber 45* turbo inlet, so that should be here likely next week. Hopefully that will fit under the Radiator hose, which i think it will.

Once i get my ass in gear and my garage heater going, i can actually start finishing the wiring and then MAYBE, just maybe give this thing a start or at least turn it over in the next month or so.
 
Last edited:

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Back again, small update. Just doing little things here and there while I have some spare time. Trying to do some Training/Studying for some IT Certifications for work, and being sick again have taken up a bit of my time recently.

Carbon Fiber Inlet came in. its huge, it fits under the radiator hose but it will need trimmed in order for it to fit under the hood with a filter. If anyone has any tips on trimming carbon fiber and how to keep the ends from fraying after cutting let me know. I planned on just using super glue LOL.
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I've done quite a bit of mocking up the feed and return lines. I got the coolant return line made up from the Coolant crossover using a 45* and 60* AN fittings, under the compressor housing. Honestly, im not completely sold on this one as it almost looks like its kinked, although i assure its not. Im really thinking about maybe using some pushlock fittings for these since they are a bit more flexible and just overall easier to work with. Waiting for some Funk Motorsport heat sleeve to show up so i can finish mocking up and cutting my oil feed line since I decided to route it towards the block under the Exhaust Manifold so i want to keep that line safe. Same thing for my Coolant feed off the Thermostat housing.
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Yesterday I found some motivation to do some wiring. I shortened up the power wires from the fan relays to the can connectors so I didnt have 4 feet of extra wire wrapped up in that little area. Re-Crimped the MAF power wire as it was moved backwards towards the firewall so that it wouldnt break the wires. Trimmed up the MPI and Ignition power wires to the new relocated fuse block. Just need to make a power wire that runs from the Positive block to the Power in for that one.
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Went ahead and ordered 5 new oem oil filters, and a TON of crush washers for oil changes. Verified that i have MT-90 for the trans and Shockproof heavyweight for the Tcase.

Threw the intake manifold on to get a better overall Idea of how the intercooler piping is going to run and to make sure the injector connectors are good still and start getting them wrapped up in that Tessa tape, and then also find a good place for my map sensor and my vacuum distribution block on the firewall as well.
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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
388
320
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Took some time to get some more stuff done. Im a little upset at myself for procrastinating re-looming the harness. It looks really good.

My thermal/heat sleeve for the coolant feed and oil feed for the turbo arrived. I bought this from Funk Motorsports, great quality stuff. Cant say for sure if it will help with Anything but a guy can hope. Finished both the feed lines for the turbo with that sleeve on it. I'm fairly happy with both, although they aren't ideal. The coolant feed has kind of got a funky bend in it to keep it off the compressor housing, and but under the turbo manifold mounting flange. It seems to work fine, I don't foresee any issues but only time will tell. The oil feed I ended up running over the water pipe, down the front of the block and in between the block and the oil filter. I used a 120* fitting off the oil filter housing.
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Did a rough Mock up for the staging brake to see about getting a mounting bracket made, but it looks as if i might not need one. I might need to use some washers when its mounted but I think I could get away with some rivnuts and washers.
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Installed my Oilite gear selector block or whatever you want to call it, replacing that crappy plastic block. That was a pretty easy deal.
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Awhile ago i tried to mock up the bosch wideband knock sensor, and the hole is for an M8 bolt, not the M10 that the factory hole in the block is. I ended up drilling it out to like a 9.9mm hole using a 25/64th drill bit and it fit literally like a glove. I used an OEM turbo-manifold bolt. I might replace this with a better bolt but for now this seems pretty solid and perfect length. Drilling out such a sensitive sensor seems like a bad idea, so if it ends up being an issue with knock readings i might end up buying another and just Helicoiling the threads in the block for the M8 bolt, like someone on one of the facebook pages said they did.
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Messed around with the Ball joint snap ring and was FINALLY able to get it installed on the ball joint. What a pain.. i really dread doing the other side but i might as well.
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Test fitted and shortened my flex fuel sensor harness. Pretty straight forward. Mock it up see how much to cut, solder back together. Also mocked up my AEM map sensor and the vacuum splitter on the firewall.

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Now, my favorite part of the whole weekend was re-looming. This turned out better than i expected honestly. I started with the Injector harness. Started by wrapping each injector branch down to the main "Trunk" of the harness and then starting back at Cyl 1 and looming it all the way down to the main harness. Test fitted with the manifold and they are damn near invisible. Another eyesore was the o2 harness and thermostat housing. I decided to do those next. Kind of followed the same idea as above wrapping the branches off the main trunk first and then going back to the end of it and looming back towards the main harness. This turned out great as well. I gotta say that im pretty impressed. I do plan on adding some strain relief mounts to both the 02 harness area, as well as the injector harness too. I think im going to re-do the starter harness next. Want to make new power and ground cable for that since mine are pretty badly corroded.
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We're making moves boys!
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