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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Got the fuel feed and return lines ran all the way to the back and secured using the stock mounting locations and the 3d printed mounts that fit into the stock bracket. I DID end up switching the straight fitting off the inlet of the fuel filter to a 45* fitting. Fits a bit better and makes me feel more comfortable too.
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Mounted the tank back up with just 2 nuts and cut the return and feed lines to size and pulled the tank back off to replace some hoses and and get the fittings put on the hoses.
First off was to plug the original Return line. Easy with just a rubber cap and a small hose clamp.
The EVAP/Overflow Limiter I just ran short hose to the edge of the tank venting to atmosphere towards the rear of the car. I'm really not sure how else to handle this one since the stock evap line doesn't exist anymore and i didnt think i wanted Hardline out of the thank to just be vented straight off the tank.
There's a 3rd line to deal with too which is a slightly larger line which is the vapor pipe which is used when filling up to vent the gas and pressure from the pump to escape back through the filler neck?
Tank is fully mounted, filler neck re-installed, Hose clamps replaced. Its looking good!
The 90* fittings on the top of the Pump assembly still BARELY clear the floor but i don't think it will be an issue anymore.
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The Line Holders are pretty legit, and clean up the lines pretty great too. They look like they almost belong there.
Ordered an OEM o2 sensor pigtail connector awhile ago from OHM Racing (I think?) and have just been waiting to get it soldered in, so i finally got that done. I think ill be going to a CANGauge setup with CANLambda so i wont need it but just in case someone in the future wants to use the factory narrowband, its there.
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Mounted the DBW Pedal just for a test fit and DAMN that thing is fancy. It feels great! I cant wait to get the harness done and use the pedal.
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So now i just need to get my front sway bar installed but its a pain in the ass due to the aftermarket Poly Mounts.. Then i can get the motor and trans dropped in and finish re-routing and re-looming the engine harness so that it looks presentable.

Im really dreading relocating the battery to the back. Just simply because i dont know how im going to handle the fuses attached to the + Terminal of the battery. I might need some tips on how to handle that if anyone has any.
 
Last edited:

1cleangsx

Proven Member
659
545
Sep 28, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
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Here’s how mine sits currently LOL, I plan on mounting it somewhere somehow eventually, I gotta say man your killing it with all the pics! I have a question in regards to your Full Blown hanger, it looks like in your pics the green wire went to the float? That’s how mine is also wired currently even tho my gauge isn’t working, I didn’t want to have to pull the hanger to re check LOL
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
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Here’s how mine sits currently LOL, I plan on mounting it somewhere somehow eventually, I gotta say man your killing it with all the pics! I have a question in regards to your Full Blown hanger, it looks like in your pics the green wire went to the float? That’s how mine is also wired currently even tho my gauge isn’t working, I didn’t want to have to pull the hanger to re check LOL
Yeah I thought about something like that but I wanted to keep my bay clean.. I have some power and ground blocks but I don't quite know where to put them.

Yeah the green wire is to the float and the blue wire went to the little ground thing that sticks down the hanger. I wish I would have got a picture of the inside of the top part of it.
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,001
1,553
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
The last couple days i have been fighting constantly with trying to get these cams degreed.. My issue is that i cant keep the bottom of the dial gauge from slipping from its original position on the retainer to off the retainer when the valve starts to close. Im not exaggerating when i say ive been fighting this for almost 10 hours. Just that single issue.. Its causing my events to show way off.
For instance, I fought with the dial gauge slipping and then finally got it to a point where it thought it was good. My Intake Valve Open event was happening at 8* BTDC, but then my Closing event was happening 10* Advanced at 32* ABDC..

PXL_20220430_200824737.jpg PXL_20220430_200900397.jpg
It slipped because you were not locating the dial indicator properly. You had to set the dial indicator the same angle as valve by using a sharp thinner tip.
With a "L" shaped tip with a thinner extension would make the setting so much easier.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
It slipped because you were not locating the dial indicator properly. You had to set the dial indicator the same angle as valve by using a sharp thinner tip.
With a "L" shaped tip with a thinner extension would make the setting so much easier.
You're saying to use a "needle" like tip? I tried setting even with the valve so many times I've literally lost count. I guess I didn't know there was an L shaped tip. Interesting.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
It slipped because you were not locating the dial indicator properly. You had to set the dial indicator the same angle as valve by using a sharp thinner tip.
With a "L" shaped tip with a thinner extension would make the setting so much easier.
Something like this guy?
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DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,001
1,553
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Something like this guy?
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Yes, something like that would be useful. Or you can fabricate your own by using a welding electrode or so by sharpening/bending the tip. If retainers you use don't have a good flat spot to place the dial indicator tip, you can place a L shaped tip on the place where valve keepers go like the pic below. Most of retainers have a flat spot around there. Just look for a spot where won't interfere with rocker arm when cam pushes rocker arm down.
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Dericsh

Supporting Member
1,090
402
Nov 25, 2002
Pearl River, Louisiana
I have been spending all of my free time catching up from the very beginning. Naturally, with my lack of time, it’s taken me about a week and a half to read it all. This is a very informative and entertaining build thread. I bookmarked several posts along the way. Thanks for taking the time to photograph and document everything. Looking forward to future updates!
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I have been spending all of my free time catching up from the very beginning. Naturally, with my lack of time, it’s taken me about a week and a half to read it all. This is a very informative and entertaining build thread. I bookmarked several posts along the way. Thanks for taking the time to photograph and document everything. Looking forward to future updates!
I appreciate that! Its cool to know that people are actually reading this, especially from the beginning. Im happy that at least some of this info has been helping people. This whole build has really been a huge learning curve for me since this platform really isnt at its peak anymore and "Bolt on" parts arent nearly as available as other platforms ive worked on.

I was actually going get an update typed up today. Should be posted here in a little while
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Just a few updates since last. I Started by DBW Pedal harness, Kind of. I only Pinned 4 wires to get started. They turned out pretty good considering i dont have the right crimper for this type of pin.
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After messing with the underside of the car to get those fuel lines installed i KNEW i had to clean the underside the best i could. I zip tied the Driveshaft up right before the Yoke so it could spin freely still and rolled the car into the driveway and jacked the front of the car up. Busted out the pressure washer and went to town spraying everything from the Carrier bearing forwards including the front subframe. It's not perfect by any means and there is still some gunk under there but damn it looks so much better. No more inch of dirt, grease, Gear oil.. It's just about down the whatever the factory protectant is, some of which i might have removed.. The Subframe turned out great, HUGE Difference. I waited a few days for it to dry and then scuffed up the rusty spots and cleaned it off the best i could and then shot it with some semi gloss black hi temp paint. You almost can't even tell where the rusty spots where! The Passenger side under the battery where the actual body paint is, is the same way likely from the battery leaking. I plan on taking the paint code to Sturdevant's and getting an Aerosol can of it and giving it a nice coat in there. I have no intention of painting the engine bay for quite some time.
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I noticed my wing was pretty sloppy so i decided to remove it and figure out why. One of the mounting clips was completely crumbled. This sucks because the only replacements i can find seem to be for the 1GA not GB.. If anyone knows where to get some, let me know please. I noticed that the mount on the wing side was also broken on one side as well. The other side is secured on both sides of where the clip sits in the wing.
Good Side:
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Broken Side:
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Last weekend i took advantage of the warm weather and put some more time into the car. I ended up getting the engine and trans mounted back into the bay! Huge milestone for me in this build. I wont lie though, it was a pain to get it in there and mounted up. All of the motor mounts wouldn't line up at the same time. I ended up removing the front one under the the turbo location as that was the main one keeping the engine from slipping further down to its final resting place. The transmission mount is always a pain too but i got it, and its in there. I think i might try and pick up some Boosted Fabrications mounts to clean up the front and rear mounts a bit.
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I did a quick test fit of the Magnus SMIM to see if i would really need to relocate the battery or not, which it looks like ill have to or ill end up having to run a sharp elbow right at the throttle body which i'm not a fan of. I realized that the Factory igniter doesn't have anywhere to mount with using this manifold, and the Coil Pack relocation mount. I drilled up some holes in the coil pack mount to make it face towards the firewall and made sure the connector slipped on with it mounted so far back. I re-used the original coil pack mounting bolts and nuts to test mount and this is how its looking now:
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Ill get some better looking allen head bolts it think, same as what i used for the coil packs.
next things up are really mostly wiring. Ill get the Intake Manifold put back on, and start routing wiring and marking where they branch off the main harness and either extending or reducing the length, then work on wiring my dual walbro pump setup. I drew a diagram on how i THINK it should be wired. Basically the remote turn on signal from the ECU will run to both pumps as the switched source. The first pump will turn on and run just as the OEM did, but the 2nd one will use the hobbs switch to ground the Relay at whatever psi i set it to and that is what will activate the 2nd pump... Hopefully.
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I am a bit concerned with the lack of assembly lube in the cam, rod and crank main journals after turning it over so much while trying to degree the cams, and then the timing belt fiasco. I put plenty of assembly lube in there when i assembled it and The cams were re-lubed when i replaced the degreeing springs i was using but the rod and Mains were not relubed. I DID pack the oil pump housing full of assembly lube before final assembly of the front case, hopefully that is enough to save it from heating the bearings up too much.

I have to find a decent diagram of the DBW Harness as well. I know that Link suggests using a 12v source and using an ECU switched source to close the relay. If i'm thinking about that right i think that 12v will go directly to the throttle body and not to the pedal as the pedal is only sending the signal to the ECU to open or close the Throttle body blade, and the motors INSIDE the Throttle Body are what need the power?

I also have to rewire my fans. As Vegas has done, i'd like to be able to control when the fans come on using the Fuel Pressure solenoid so you can set all sorts of parameters like turn off at WOT, and a lower temp, etc etc. Here's my drawn diagram of how i THINK this will work.
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Snagged a MAC 4 port BCS, because i want to run all the boost and not have to worry much about wastegate springs. i kind of did the math too and i think i'll need a remote vacuum block for the manifold for vacuum/Boost reference too.
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All in all, its finally coming together i'm absolutely stoked to see how well this reloom/Extending harness thing goes.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Not Much of an update to give here. I did make a pretty big decision to switch the turbo setup though. I moved from the 6266/6466 and decided to switch to a Garrett GTX 3584rs. After watching a few tuning videos and overall reviews of the turbo, it seem to spool quite a bit faster and come in harder than the PTE Turbo's.
I emailed Matt from Morrison and he gladly updated my build and re-sent the invoice as he had to change the Vbands on the manifold.

I went ahead and picked up a few new parts too:
MAC 4 Port BCS
Morrison Fab 5/8 Garrett oil Drain Kit
AEM Stainless 5 Bar MAP Sensor
Raceart Remote Vacuum block
Raceart 4 Port BCS Mount
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My ECU finally came back from LinkECU in New Zealand. They did some vodoo and gave me more inputs as well as added Aux 9 and Aux 10 for DBW functionality and fixed one of the transistors on the board too. On top of that i also ordered a new expansion harness quite a while ago and ill be ordering the CAN harness too.
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My new Pin crimper came in and damn i have to say that it works great. i was able to get my wiring about 90% done for the fuel pumps following the wiring diagram i drew in the last update. I do have ONE Concern with that setup though; using the Hobbs switch to activate the 2nd fuel pump. I worried about the gauge of wire needed to run to the engine bay. since the relay is getting 12+ V, wouldnt you need to ground the relay using a similar sized wire as whats feeding it? So if i fed the relay with 10ga wire, would i need to ground it with a 10ga or is a smaller wire like a 16ga enough? OR should i just use some sort of input on the ecu to activate the 2nd fuel pump? that seems like a good idea since i feel like i can set some safeties going that route too.
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I think Next ill work on getting the hoses ran to the brake prop. valve for the staging brake and then maybe move on to the engine harness in the bay and start laying things out and see where they are going to lay.

I still need some help on the drive by wire harness. I think i read somewhere that the Power for the throttle body should come from a 12v switched source that only turns on with the ignition? Maybe someone might be able to confirm this. I think ill try and make a diagram on how it think this is supposed to work and throw it up on the post. Im pretty terrible at reading wiring schematics so i could absolutely be wrong. I dont think the ECU supplied 12v to anything externally.
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,850
2,723
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
12v doesn't need to come from the ecu. You can get it straight from the battery with a relay and fuse. I run all my 12v sensors off a fuse panel in my armrest.

I'm surprised you chose the 4 port. It's not often used. It gives a higher variance of low to high boost but gives worse resolution which can hurt you when trying to run closed loop electronic boost control. 4 ports are usually used by those wanting to be able to run very low boost and also very high boost.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
12v doesn't need to come from the ecu. You can get it straight from the battery with a relay and fuse. I run all my 12v sensors off a fuse panel in my armrest.

I'm surprised you chose the 4 port. It's not often used. It gives a higher variance of low to high boost but gives worse resolution which can hurt you when trying to run closed loop electronic boost control. 4 ports are usually used by those wanting to be able to run very low boost and also very high boost.
Okay so that's what I thought BUT the throttle body motor DOES need a 12v source right? I was just going to relay it with a fuse, and a switched ECU source to activate the relay.

I'll be honest the only reason I went with a 4 port is so that I didn't have to worry about wastegate springs as much.
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,850
2,723
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
I don't know about the dbw because I've never run one. Be careful what you wish for with that bcs. You can get situations where your boost control resolution is so poor that you can't run closed loop. Not saying this will happen but just something to keep in mind. It happened to me.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I don't know about the dbw because I've never run one. Be careful what you wish for with that bcs. You can get situations where your boost control resolution is so poor that you can't run closed loop. Not saying this will happen but just something to keep in mind. It happened to me.
Do you mean the Map sensor? I know if the map sensors isn't appropriately sized you can have issues with accuracy and resolution, but I've never heard of that with a Bcs
 
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