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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
357
266
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Alright another update.

Rod and bearings came back from R&R from them drilling them. It actually looks like he used a slightly larger than 3/16's drill bit for the bearings. When I talked with him on the phone for payment i asked him about the offset of the bearings and he said that it was fine. I got right on measuring my clearances again and cylinders 1-3 all used the +.001" bearings to bring my clearance to .0036-.0037. 4 was kind of a pain in the ass. Putting the extra clearance bearings in there actually made the clearance .0042 or so.. so I swapped in the STD size which brought it down to .0032.. which was too small going off Mikes recommendation from R&R. So i ended up MIXING the bearings as ACL Says you can as long as the difference in the bearings isnt over .0005" which it wasnt. I threw the STD Size bearings on the higher Load side of the journal (rod side) since they are thicker, and the +001" on the cap side. This brought my clearance in line with the other 3, at .0036-.0037 range.
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I went ahead and ordered up a new Fuel pressure regulator, all new -8an Line for my fuel feed, -6an for my return a bunch of fittings, Caps for my oil cooler lines on the filter housing, some AN wrenches.
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So i Decided against a full blown wire tuck on the car for right now. Im just not patient enough to wait that long and thats just a lot of work right now. BUT i did want to clean up the engine bay quite a bit. its one of my biggest gripes about this car. I got to work sitting on a stool In my engine bay and started stripping wires and what not. What a tedious task this is. When i get to a junction i just used some Velcro to wrap around the wires to mark the Junctions and keep the wires tidy. I will be relocating some wires. CAS and TPS wires will come up from under the throttle body along the same route as the o2 sensor. The injector wires will get shortened (maybe) and run up through the manifold runners. Im hoping the to clear all the wires off the top of the manifold and run them all underneath. Im also hoping to route my speed density harness from ECMLink inside the rest of the Harness i will be re-looming as well to clean everything up. We'll see. I am re-looming everything with Tessa Tape.
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Ive been doing some research on Drive by wire. The thought of not having cruise control kind of sucks in my opinion. So i went ahead and picked up a Bosch 68mm DBW Throttle body, the Evo Motorsports DBW pedal adapter, an Evo pedal and ill get that all hooked up using my Link ECU.

I remounted my MAP sensor on the back of my manifold on a flange that is mounted there. Directly below the Manifold vacuum ports. so its super close to the reference. Im only a little worried about how erratic it will read without some sort of a filter.. ill consider that sometime.

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Last edited:

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
357
266
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Some more great progress on the car.

fI was able to get the Bosch Throttle body to fit. The original holes in the TB arent large enough for the M8 bolts so they have to be drilled out. I ended up having to go to a 3/8's drill bit to get the holes wide enough for the bolt holes to be able to line up. Being that the TB is a 68mm and the stock inlet of the Magnus SMIM is only 65, im going to have to smooth it out so there isnt a step. Ive gone ahead and ordered a new S90 70MM throttle body gasket as this should provide just enough width for the new ID of the TB. Also in order to get the new TB to fit i had to get some new bolts from the hardware store. Some Allen heads since hex heads would end up being too close to the inlet outer diameter to get a socket or anything on. I keep reading about the benefits of DBW other than cruise and i gotta say im super stoked.

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My oil pan came back from Buschurs from being modded with pickup baffle welded in. Some great quality there as expected of Dave and his crew (now that they're back)
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With the rod bearings finally clearanced i went ahead and worked on getting those installed. I ground my 2nd compression ring out to a .029" with the 1st ring at .027". With that done i was able to final assemble the rods in the motor! Huge turning and motivational point for me in this build. I didnt take many pictures of this part as i was really trying to bust my ass getting all 4 in and torqued before the end of the night. I didnt feel like only having a few rods in there. I wont lie, getting wrist pins through the pistons and through the rod was kind of a Pain. I think it was mostly to due with the fact i left the rods in the garage for a few days before assembling them with the pistons making the metal shrink. I eventually got them in there using just my hands but man, they put up a fight. Had me worried a little bit honestly. I brought all 4 inside for awhile and after they warmed up i was able to slide the rods on the pins just fine.
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I cleaned up the rod journals on the crank and rods themselves, Put the rings on all the pistons, lubed up the walls with ATF and got em all installed and torqued! This thing is really coming together. I got the girdle installed as well. I Kept the other support for the oil pickup and just bolted it up with the ARP studs. I wanted to be funny/ a nice reminder for myself for what this build will be. I just want to be able to throw just about anything at it, and it just take it.
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Threw on the oil pan gasket. This was from a member in the forums/Facebook page(s). Nice piece, hopefully it holds up good. I while putting the oil pan on, i realized how crusty my old oil pan bolts were so i decided on replacing them. I ran to ACE hardware and picked up some more Allen Head bolts. These are an M6x1.0 x 10mm Long, and some lock washers as well. These turned out super nice and looks very clean. I noticed that the one bolt, the short one between the oil pump sprocket and the crank sprocket the threads were stripped out in it.. i guess I never noticed this while putting the oil pan back on. Either way, I tried to re-tap it with an m6x1.0 tap but the threads just weren't deep enough to grab. I ended up drilling and tapping it for an m7x1.0. Ill have to go pick up a new bolt for that spot today after work.
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I ordered up a Cam degree wheel so that i can throw the head on and get the cams dialed in on their true marks. The engine is apart and the head has been milled a few times (I think 5 thou has been taken off since ive owned it?) so i just want to make sure its going to be fine. I already have some solid lifters. Ill have to source a fake valve spring (probably from ACE) Im also going to find a longer bolt and some nuts to used in the crank for degreeing, ill end up probably double nutting the wheel on there and using a nut to secure the bolt to the crank.

I think next, im going to tackle the fuel system and lines. I bought some 3D printed line mounts from another member here for -8feed and -6 return that utilize the factory mounting positions, AND has spots for the factory brake hard lines too. Should be nice and tidy!
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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
357
266
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Well boys, i took an L on the Talon yesterday. Fuel Filter is completely caked in Dirt/Rust.ive already ordered a new stainless washable filter to replace this with and cleaned out the housing.
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I pulled the pump assembly today too and uhh.. i dont even know what to say. My old assembly did not fair very well.

Here is how it went in:
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Here is how it came out yesterday.
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I guess word of advice, dont put silicone in your gas tank. Who woulda thunk.. i should have known better. The Silicon was basically falling apart, even the fuel line that i used which is actual fuel line seemed extremely soft. Pump got spun around in the hangar and kinked the line it looks like. Im lucky that nothing worse happened

Another dilemma, the fittings on top of the fuel pump hanger are too tall to fit with the cover on it seems. Im not sure if i can get lower profile fittings orb-AN fittings or if i can get lower profile 90* fittings.. I was just looking and it looks like Vibrant actually has some swivel 90* NPT - AN fittings. Or if i can verify if those ports are an ORB size as well i might just use those instead should sit much lower
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Keep you guys updated.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
357
266
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Did some testing and the 2 ports on the hangar are:
1/4" NPT for the -6 Return
3/8" NPT for the -8 feed

Ordered the respective swivel 90° adapters from STM tuned here:


Hopefully these are short enough to clear. I'll update again when I find out. Next time it's decent weather out I'll drop the tank and get it cleaned out too

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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
357
266
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Decided to go ahead and drop the tank yesterday. Was actually really easy. Drained the tank with the drain on the bottom and un did all the bolts and filler neck clamp, supported the tank with a jack and it basically came right out. Don't forgot the Evap, and return lines on the top of the tank.

The tank isn't quite as bad as I thought. It's got a little bit of rust inside but it's not awful in my opinion. I reached in and was able to actually scoop up some like sediment from the bottom of the tank.
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I ordered a small 6" degree wheel online to get the cams degreed in. Should be here Monday. I already ordered this same one but was only delivered am empty bag 🫠

Vegas' post above this one makes me really want to do a CAN setup.. pretty simple and that gauge is pretty damn sweet. Im going to highly consider that.
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,885
2,740
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
The CAN setup is so nice. The gauge setup can monitor something like 20-30 different parameters in one gauge with trigger warnings as well. I keep oil pressure, afr, battery and coolant temp on the front page of gauge. All programmed through an app. The wideband is self-diagnosing, self-calibrating and should last a lot longer and be more accurate than the usual widebands out there. Link g4+ is just so much better than ecmlink and safer for your car. I had Jeff Evans of Evans Performance Academy remote tune the car.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
357
266
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
The CAN setup is so nice. The gauge setup can monitor something like 20-30 different parameters in one gauge with trigger warnings as well. I keep oil pressure, afr, battery and coolant temp on the front page of gauge. All programmed through an app. The wideband is self-diagnosing, self-calibrating and should last a lot longer and be more accurate than the usual widebands out there. Link g4+ is just so much better than ecmlink and safer for your car. I had Jeff Evans of Evans Performance Academy remote tune the car.
Yeah I see that Link has their own CAN Gauge too. They look to be almost identical though. All those sensors, do they all have to be CAN sensors or can they be analog to be displayed on that Gauge? For instance, my fuel pressure, or MAP are both analog already.

By my research yesterday I would need to get the CANJST harness for the Plugin G4+ just to be able to use CAN, and wire it to sensor ground and a ignition switched 12v source?

And then if I understand it right you literally just run CANTEES off to each sensor and that's pretty much it?
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,885
2,740
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
You just use regular sensors. Get rid of your map and use the onboard map sensor. Pay no attention to how long vacuum line will be as it makes no difference. Yeah you can use the tee and connect them right up. Wish that were available when I did mine.I can’t recall
How you wire the CAN but that’s probably right.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
357
266
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
You just use regular sensors. Get rid of your map and use the onboard map sensor. Pay no attention to how long vacuum line will be as it makes no difference. Yeah you can use the tee and connect them right up. Wish that were available when I did mine.I can’t recall
How you wire the CAN but that’s probably right.
I see. Well, I plan on running more than 30psi so a 3 bar won't work for me. My onboard is a 3 bar. If it's really that easy I might switch over.
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,885
2,740
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Hmm, maybe it’s an older version. Mine has the 4bar newer boards have the 7bar. I have Link’s external 4bar sitting around but I use their onboard.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
357
266
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Hmm, maybe it’s an older version. Mine has the 4bar newer boards have the 7bar. I have Link’s external 4bar sitting around but I use their onboard.
I've got a GM 4 bar now tied into the factor MAF harness with ECMlinks adapter harness. I'd like to use the on board MAP if it's a 4 bar. My ECU is v1.1 so I think it is pretty old

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