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Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Put lift brackets back on. One by PS pump and one by TB. I had my manifold off too when I pulled mine and just used an exhaust stud. Kinda sketchy but I tightened as much as I could and it was fine. I pulled tranny and engine together. I got tons of pics so let me know if you got any questions.
Unfortunately I don't have the one by the power steering. The one by the throttle body might. Not work because I swapped out the studs for shorter fully threaded studs to make taking the throttle body elbow off easier.
 

bgold87

Proven Member
59
21
Nov 20, 2019
Louisville, Kentucky
Did you keep stockers? Swing by hw store and get a couple longer. If you have a leveler just use the PS bracket holes and then bolt leveler to that and exhaust.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Did you keep stockers? Swing by hw store and get a couple longer. If you have a leveler just use the PS bracket holes and then bolt leveler to that and exhaust.
I do but they're pretty messed up after being removed with vice grips (double nut method didn't work) after looking yesterday, I also remembered that I swapped out the rear CAS stud too with a shorter one.

Here's my plan:
Remove CAS, remove throttle body elbow, put the lift bracket on where it normally goes by the throttle body and snug down the nuts so it doesn't move. Hopefully the studs hold.. and then I'll just remove power steering pump and hook into that bracket on the front.
 

TK's9d2TSi

Supporting Member
6,302
3,294
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
I do but they're pretty messed up after being removed with vice grips (double nut method didn't work) after looking yesterday, I also remembered that I swapped out the rear CAS stud too with a shorter one.

Here's my plan:
Remove CAS, remove throttle body elbow, put the lift bracket on where it normally goes by the throttle body and snug down the nuts so it doesn't move. Hopefully the studs hold.. and then I'll just remove power steering pump and hook into that bracket on the front.
That should work. You can use the stud thats for the d/s engine mount.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
so i think i found a solution for my lift issue. I went to Harbor Freight and picked up a Hoist leveler. They have 4 good Sized L brackets on it that have holes on each face of the bracket. I stuck those on the studs for the exhaust, and the 2 bit studs on the intake manifold. and snugged them down good.
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I also found a good alternative to a regular drain valve on for these cars that hopefully shouldnt make a mess when trying to drain coolant anymore. I went to oriellys and picked up a 1/4" npt drain, but this one has a cup or something on it which i slid a Hose on over top of. This should allow me to direct the flow of coolant when draining it, assuming it fits where the radiator needs to go.
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I also picked up a JMF Coolant overflow because it looks cool and probably works better than my Amazon overflow.. i went with the one with the purple cap to match my wastegate!
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Yesterday i was able to drain the trans fluid, pop off the power steering pump (im thinking about doing a delete on this now.. since ill have a ton of access to it.. Anyone have any experience with the Flyin Miata rack mod? is it worth it?)
Starter is off, axles are out, heater core hoses off. I believe that the only things left are the speedo cable, and the engine/ trans mounts and we're ready to go and let the building begin!
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Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,849
2,723
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
I can’t remember exactly what the Miata mod is but I have a professionally depowered rack and it’s ok. It’s better than just unhooking the power steering which sucks. It really only bothers me when I’m doing like a 90* backup. Otherwise, the car feels totally normal and the more I drive it the more I forget I even did it.
One thing you might consider is relocation your overflow to a wheel well like I did. Helps get it out of sight and clean up the bay. I secured mine to drivers side with self tapping screws.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I can’t remember exactly what the Miata mod is but I have a professionally depowered rack and it’s ok. It’s better than just unhooking the power steering which sucks. It really only bothers me when I’m doing like a 90* backup. Otherwise, the car feels totally normal and the more I drive it the more I forget I even did it.
One thing you might consider is relocation your overflow to a wheel well like I did. Helps get it out of sight and clean up the bay. I secured mine to drivers side with self tapping screws.
Where did you have yours done at? And are they still around?

The flyin Miata mod basically just removes the plunger that separates the 2 sides of the rack I guess, and then it allows the fluid to be pushed directly from ones side to the other and not through the pump. I might have to double check, and re-read the article.

I'll consider the relocation, I was actually just going to mount it to the old radiator fan mounts on the radiator towards the passenger side.
 

habitatguy187

Proven Member
3,433
133
Aug 20, 2008
Indianapolis, Indiana
Anyone have any experience with the Flyin Miata rack mod? is it worth it?)
I did it to my awd 1g. Imo it doesn't make it much different. A little easier than no ps but not a huge change. I love the idea of not having extra fluids, hoses and pumps tho so I will recommended it 10 times outta 10 👍.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Back at it again.
I got down to finishing pulling the motor.

word of advice for anyone using this leveler, make sure the handle is towards the Thermostat side of the engine if you're pulling a fully assembled engine. The handle hits the cam gears/cover if you have it the other way.

I got everything disconnected and the motor and trans just sitting in there by all 4 motor mounts. I unbolted both the front, and the rear motor mounts and moved my strut brace out of the way. At this point I supported the engine with the hoist and un bolted the driver side motor mount. While it was suspended i jacked up the passenger side and removed the tire to gain access to the trans mount. that side is actually a big pain with the torque solutions mount. The heads of the bolts are 17s.. and the gap in the fender wall is barely big enough to fit a 17mm socket in there.
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Got the trans mount off and the motor broke free and i could tell it was dangling. I started slowly jacking up the motor and trans, and noticed that the timing side got caught on something. It was the looped oil cooler line. I straight up bent the lines up and out of the way ( i plan on deleting this the right way with Buschur's Evo oil cooler delete plugs) anyways so the lines are of no importance to me.
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After that I just slowly jacked the motor up, and used the leveler to bring the timing side up over the motor mount and then towards the driver side, and then brought the trans side up and over. Easiest Motor pull ever! ( although ive only done 2..)
Got it off to the side of the car and rested the motor and trans on a thick pad of cardboard I made. Dont worry, it was just resting there. The weight of the motor and trans was still mostly supported by the lift.
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I unbolted the bell housing bolts, (DONT FORGET THE COVER ON THE BOTTOM OF THE ENGINE/TRANS) and pulled the trans off and unbolted the pressure plate and flywheel. Set everything aside. The bolt organizing system i use is just labeled sandwich baggies for all the bolts that belong together.
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Raised the motor back up and mounted the engine stand mount on the rear of the motor and lifted the bottom of the engine stand onto the motor since its lighter.. and put the pin in and slowly let the motor down. On the ground safe and sound! Picked up my tools and organized the bolts i didnt do when i pulled them off and thats where i left it.
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This engine bay needs a DEEEEEEP clean
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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Monday I started the teardown. I really honestly wont go into too much detail in this because well, its a teardown. All i can say is make sure you keep up on your organization of your bolts and BAGGY THEM BEFORE YOU MOVE ON.
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I Started just by removing all the bigger external stuff and pullies and what not, finished with the valve cover.
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Yesterday i moved on to the timing belt, all the timing components, everything on the front end of the motor and took the head off. Honestly the pistons look great all things considered! They're pretty black but that's kind of to be expected, especially with how rich it was in boost. The cam journals look damn near brand new as well so I'm thankful for that. Im really not sure i ran into anything questionable when doing the teardown. As the motor sits, its a short block, with the oil pan on it. Im hoping to have it torn down by the end of the week so I can measure the crank and make sure that i have the right sized bearings..

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When i ordered my internals i went ahead and bought ACL Race bearings with the +.001 on both the main and rod bearings.. I honestly really should have waited to order both bearings and pistons because looking at the cylinder walls, I'm really hoping it doesn't need bored out. I picked up some stock bore (85mm) sized pistons. Hopefully I can get away with just a ball hone or something. ill be buying an bore gauge to make sure the cylinders are good as well. Im borrowing my buddies Micrometers to measure everything else.

I did about 2 hours of searching last night on this but i couldn't find anything concrete, but found a lot of speculation on it as well.
What is the benefit to the ACL race bearings std size WITH the +.001 clearance? is it just for higher HP builds with more boost for more oil cushion?
I also found a bit of speculation as to running the Race bearings on the stock crank as well. Any advice would help on that. Of course I'm still going to Mic everything and make sure its within spec but any advice in this area would be appreciated.

I had some issues getting the front case off yesterday too. All the bolts out including the oil pan bolts, but the rtv is still there. I havent broken the rtv seal yet but i will today and ill report back if i got it off.
 

bgold87

Proven Member
59
21
Nov 20, 2019
Louisville, Kentucky
Monday I started the teardown. I really honestly wont go into too much detail in this because well, its a teardown. All i can say is make sure you keep up on your organization of your bolts and BAGGY THEM BEFORE YOU MOVE ON.
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I Started just by removing all the bigger external stuff and pullies and what not, finished with the valve cover.
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Yesterday i moved on to the timing belt, all the timing components, everything on the front end of the motor and took the head off. Honestly the pistons look great all things considered! They're pretty black but that's kind of to be expected, especially with how rich it was in boost. The cam journals look damn near brand new as well so I'm thankful for that. Im really not sure i ran into anything questionable when doing the teardown. As the motor sits, its a short block, with the oil pan on it. Im hoping to have it torn down by the end of the week so I can measure the crank and make sure that i have the right sized bearings..

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When i ordered my internals i went ahead and bought ACL Race bearings with the +.001 on both the main and rod bearings.. I honestly really should have waited to order both bearings and pistons because looking at the cylinder walls, I'm really hoping it doesn't need bored out. I picked up some stock bore (85mm) sized pistons. Hopefully I can get away with just a ball hone or something. ill be buying an bore gauge to make sure the cylinders are good as well. Im borrowing my buddies Micrometers to measure everything else.

I did about 2 hours of searching last night on this but i couldn't find anything concrete, but found a lot of speculation on it as well.
What is the benefit to the ACL race bearings std size WITH the +.001 clearance? is it just for higher HP builds with more boost for more oil cushion?
I also found a bit of speculation as to running the Race bearings on the stock crank as well. Any advice would help on that. Of course I'm still going to Mic everything and make sure its within spec but any advice in this area would be appreciated.

I had some issues getting the front case off yesterday too. All the bolts out including the oil pan bolts, but the rtv is still there. I havent broken the rtv seal yet but i will today and ill report back if i got it off.
When I was looking into bearings I found tons of examples of stock rebuilds running the ACL race and seeing builds with them from 2016 and before and still running fine. I thought since it's the most popular on extremepsi and stmtuned coupled with the fact I couldn't find a lot of bearing failures on stock rebuilds due to bearing issues it was a safe bet. I went with ACL Race standard size which is what my engine builder recommended.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
When I was looking into bearings I found tons of examples of stock rebuilds running the ACL race and seeing builds with them from 2016 and before. I thought since it's the most popular on extremepsi and stmtuned coupled with the fact I couldn't find a lot of bearing failures on stock rebuilds due to bearing issues it was a safe bet. I went with ACL Race standard size which is what my engine builder recommended.
That's actually really re-assuring haha thanks! I also went with the "std" size but with the extra .001 clearance. Hopefully I made the right choice LOL I'll double check my crank measurements, and go from there
 

bgold87

Proven Member
59
21
Nov 20, 2019
Louisville, Kentucky
That's actually really re-assuring haha thanks! I also went with the "std" size but with the extra .001 clearance. Hopefully I made the right choice LOL I'll double check my crank measurements, and go from there
Yea man, I'm basically in the exact same spot you are with the same car so we have probably been down the same paths LOL
 

Tyeler18

Proven Member
2,475
204
Dec 16, 2008
Casa Grande, Arizona
I've used the .001" extra clearance bearings in every build I've done since 2010. These things make oil pressure so easily the extra clearance helps keep down the 120+psi pressures most guys see on BSE engines. You definitely don't have to worry about oil pressure, the added clearance just helps keep pressures inline. I ran my first engine with the outer BSE bearing missing (machine shop pressed it out during machining and I didn't notice). It ran for 10 hard miles knocking, as well as multiple angry cold start/anti lag runs with nearly 0 oil pressure. When I finally pulled the crank out to figure out what exactly had happened the bearings took one hell of a beating but saved the crank and didn't even end up needing polished. Ill swear by ACL's after the abuse they took from me with no oil pressure.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I've used the .001" extra clearance bearings in every build I've done since 2010. These things make oil pressure so easily the extra clearance helps keep down the 120+psi pressures most guys see on BSE engines. You definitely don't have to worry about oil pressure, the added clearance just helps keep pressures inline. I ran my first engine with the outer BSE bearing missing (machine shop pressed it out during machining and I didn't notice). It ran for 10 hard miles knocking, as well as multiple angry cold start/anti lag runs with nearly 0 oil pressure. When I finally pulled the crank out to figure out what exactly had happened the bearings took one hell of a beating but saved the crank and didn't even end up needing polished. Ill swear by ACL's after the abuse they took from me with no oil pressure.
thats awesome to hear! Im hoping the crank is fine. it never spun a bearing or anything that i know of, but then again with as long as these cars have been around who knows the actual stories behind them all. I do plan on doing balance shaft delete, and i picked up a spare OFH and im going to port the relief valve as well. It sounds like as long as my clearances are good, the +.001 are a good choice.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Finally got around to getting the front case, oil pan, Oil pickup and the rods and pistons pulled off/out.
Ill be honest, i feel really stupid because i tried to pull the front case off before the oil pan and, well anyone that's pulled it knows that you cant do that. For anyone that DOESNT know, the oil pump is mounted both to one of the Main Cap bolts, AND the back of the oil pump housing... Ill have to clean and check the casing to make sure its not cracked or anything because i was tapping it pretty good on the oil pump side to break it look. So just a warning.

After the Oil pan came off I realized that, and unbolted the oil pickup and the front case and Balance shafts slid right out no problem.
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Next was rods and pistons. At this point, the crank doesnt spin very freely by just my hand and no tools. which was just a little concerning to me, but oh well.
I worked my way from Cylinder 1 > Cylinder 4, and my heart sank a little when I pulled the caps and bearings. The bearings really look like they've run their course.. it was definitely time to replace them i think. There was no spun bearing or anything and the crank actually looks really good, but im going to Mic them for wear and taper, and what not and make sure that they are still round and within spec. I also Ordered my Bore Gauge too, so ill get the block cleaned up and then check the bores with that.

Im still waiting on ordering my degree wheel, and all that stuff for degreeing the cams in, although i might order the solid lifters to do so now.

Here's what I found, starting with the crank rod journals, in order from Cylinder 1 > Cylinder 4, Crank at Bottom Dead Center, then Top, Followed by The Rod cap, Bearings and Journal for that particular Cylinder.

Cylinder 1:
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Cylinder 2:
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Cylinder 3:
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Cylinder 4:
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Sorry about #4s bad TDC picuture, i didnt realize how bad it was till now. It looks the same as all the others and i couldnt feel anything with my nail. Ill double check that after i get it cleaned.

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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Was able to get a little bit done on the talon this weekend. Didn't have a whole lot of time because I was replacing windows on my house.
Finished getting the Block disassembled as well as the head.
Checked the Main bearings and they definitely look like they've seen some contamination, I think anyways.

Here's what they look like in order from Front of the engine to the back, left to right.
Main Cap #1
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Main Cap #2
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Thrust Bearing/Cap
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Main Cap #3
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Main Cap #4
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I also was able to get my oil pump housing pulled apart only to find out.....
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I ALREADY HAVE STRAIGHT CUT PUMP GEARS :D
I am slightly concerned with how the pump housing looks under the gears, hopefully i don't have to replace it. Ill be checking Jafro's video on this (if i can find it again).

As it sits right now the only thing left in the block is the oil squirters and the balance shaft bearings. Ill be trying to get the balance shaft bearings out today, and then try to clearance the block for the girdle as well before taking the head, and block in to get cleaned. I noticed that at the bottom of the cylinder bores there's kind of a carbon build up as well. Ill try and get a picture of it when I get home. I'm not sure if this is something that I want to try to take out with an emery cloth or if I should hit it with a ball hone, or just have the machine shop do it while I take it in for cleaning. I do know that I personally want to measure the bores.
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Ill also be painting the block black after it comes back, I'm just not sure if i want it semi gloss/ satin, or glossy black. I'm thinking about painting the Head and thermostat housing the same Aluminum color I did the Transfer case as well.

Stripped the head of all the valves and what not. I ordered up new GSC valve stem seals again as well and made my order for all new gaskets and what not (thermostat housing, water pump, front case, rear main seal GASKET, OEM head gasket) I also picked up a new OEM Castle nut, and O-ring for the front case, AND 2 Solid lifter to Degree the cams in too. I REALLY wanna do this right.
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I might also sell off my ARP head studs in Favor of some L19s, just in case i want to really push the car later on down the road. I'm fairly confident that these arp's would hold, but Honestly i just want to overbuild the car.. although I guess I cant say that too much since i only went with Hbeams..😬

Just about to the Turning point and then the REAL work starts.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Was able to finish getting the head stripped completely. Really all that was left was the valve stem seals. New ones on the way.
Started and finished my balance shaft delete that includes the stubby shaft, and the front balance shaft plug too, used some Black RTV on the outside of the plug to make sure it seals.
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Now, i bought the delete kit with the new OEM Shiny Bearings (Flexin) but I went to put the rear in, and it split in half LOL Right where the surfaces are like stuck together with the 2 keyways..
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so i had to use the old one, flipped around. I was able to use the new front one though. i got it started in there and then used a flat disk that i have for a bearing puller and hammered it in there so it was flat with the front case surface on the block, and then used the edge of the old balance shaft to CAREFULLY knock it just passed flush with the gasket surface. Oh don't forget to flip the bearings so that it covers the oil holes. The rear has 2 holes.
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I Removed the oil squirters for when it the block gets cleaned. I've ordered new crush washers for those, and I'm contemplating ordering new freeze plugs too to really clean up the block after.. but I'm not 100% confident in my ability to get the old ones out safely, AND get the new ones in safely and sealed up right. we'll see. It would be nice to get the block 100% where I want it, and I want to get it as clean as possible.

I think either today or tomorrow I'm going to dry assemble the main caps, and Main studs with the girdle and clearance the block before taking it in to get cleaned.

My plan when it comes back, is to check the bore size, I'm going to straight edge the head surface on both the block, and the head. I'm not sure I really want to have the head Milled again. if its within spec, I might just send it. Mic the crank, check the Piston to wall clearance, the bearing clearances on both the main and rod bearings and set the ring gap too. Id like to gap them enough to run UP TO 40 ish psi as i might really send it later but we'll see. Maybe that's a bad idea with this little H beams.

I also just realized that i need to order new dowels too for the block/head -_-
 

BeatupVR4

Probationary Member
6
3
Mar 9, 2021
Nashua, New_Hampshire
What he said.

My drivers motor mount is trimmed to look 2G style like everyone does but on the PS bracket I hacked the heck out of it for weight and to clean it up but I left enough material to be able to lift from it still.

If you can find one the stock lift bracket for an Evo III intake manifold is pretty trick and looks so inconspicuous I just leave it installed all the time.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Fitted the Girdle yesterday and got the spots where it hits the block shaved off.
I had an issue with getting the main caps on. They didnt want to seat all the way against the motor.. which was weird. I double, triple checked that they were the right caps for the right spots based off pictures i had from BEFORE the caps were installed. I even tried removing studs and then installing the caps and they still didnt fit. Its like the cap was too wide for the slot.

I ended up lightly tapping them on with the studs on, with a dead blow.... yikes. all seemed fine though as far as i could tell. Im not sure if there were burrs on the block where it meets the cap but it just didnt seem right.
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Grinded down the spots i needed to, and put the oil pump and casing back on, temporarily to make sure that there wasnt going to be any interference issues, and then test fitted the oil pickup. I know that the studs are bigger so i also drilled out the support for the pickup as well. The reason is because i know of a lot of subarus and what not, that the oil pickup tube will crack and you'll lose oil pressure. so i figured give it as much stabilization as possible.
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Grinding down those spots really generated a lot of metal flakes and even though i turned the motor on its side at like a 60* angle, flakes still went everywhere. I decided to knock out the freeze plugs so that when i take it in, it has the best chance of getting completely clean. Im thinking about also doing the oil port/gallery mod on the front of the motor and smoothing out the casting marks. I might as well, right!
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For anyone that hasnt done freeze plugs i was skeptical at first but i literally just used a Hammer, a flat head screw driver, and some plyers.
Stick the screw driver on one lip or edge of the plug, and then smack it with a hammer. Keep doing that until the Opposite side of the plug that you hammered comes out from the block, and then grab it with plyers and wiggle it out. I did this for all 7 of the side plugs.
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There are 2 plugs on the back side of the motor, right above one another. My bottom one either aged VERY well, or it was replaced some time ago because it looked almost new. I decided to replace the top one. Now these ones are a bit trickier because there is less room behind the plug, to the cylinder wall..
Here's what i did. I started out like the other ones but then the plug stops going in because it hit the outside of the cylinder wall. I took that same flat head, and stuck it in the gallery hole on top of the block right behind that plug and very lightly tapped it so it pushed the plug back out. This caused one of the lips to stick out slightly. I did this again, and then there was enough of a lip that i could grab it with plyers and wiggle it out. Be careful not to use too big of a screw driver if you do it this way, as it could get lodged in between the back of the block, and the cylinder wall and potentially cause damage to the cylinder wall.
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Ive ordered up all new plugs, and dowels for the head - block as well.

Oh and here is a picture of the bottom of my bore. Im assuming this doesnt really matter because thats the end of the piston ring travel, which is likely why its like that?

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Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
353
260
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
So I ended up smoothing out the front oil ports on the front of block. I hit it with a small carbide burr and then a sandpaper roll (you can find these at Harbor Freight)
its definitely not perfect but its 100% better than it was.
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I also took some of the sanding rolls and cleaned off the gasket stuff from the oil pan on the bottom of the block. Nice n shiny now! I did the same for the freeze plugs too
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So my worry now is what is the best way to do a good rough first cleaning of the block? I'm worried that i got a bit of shavings from both grinding down for the Girdle, and the oil mod inside some of the oil galleys for the main bearings and in the oil system in general.

I still plan on taking it into the shop and having them clean it there and what not but I, personally want to try and get a good bit of the shavings cleaned out before I take it in.

Wednesday, i sprayed out the bottom of the block with brake cleaner and it almost looks like maybe the block started to get surface rust on it. Ill try and get a picture of it today when i get home. Maybe the brake cleaner cleaned it off too much and now the iron is starting to surface rust?
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I've read pretty much every post about cleaning blocks, including a couple posts by Bogus but this isn't a post shop clean.. although ill probably do that after the shop again.
 
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