Street Build 1g build - The Real Life Trials and Tribulations of building a DSM

[CrackedDSM]

You would think the old extended slave rod would help, but the issue then is over extending or pre loading? However if the extended rod gives the added travel of the tob you could add a pedal stop, like twin disc users to keep the fingers on the pressure plate happy, I don’t know, I’m just thinking and like you I just want what I have to work. My SouthBend set up holds torque, engages smooth, just needs more tob travel, I rebuilt my pedal assembly last winter, I have immediate master rod engagement as soon as I depress the pedal who knows I still don’t want an auto..

Does your southbend grind going in to gear like it’s not fully disengaging? Is that what you mean by more TOB travel?

 

[1cleangsx]

When it’s in its proper adjustment range it doesn’t grind, lately I just haven’t been able to get it to fully release no matter the adjustment, it still rolls a little at 7 grand on a clutch drag test. I did however notice a tiny bit of fluid the other day from the seal on the master under the dash, she’s got some miles on her so I’m also going to be swapping out my master and re bleeding again like I did a month ago with the new slave. I think it’s a great all around clutch, but again i still think we’re just asking a lot from the factory hydraulic system with heavy singles.

I’m pretty well determined now to go twin, but with only 1200 miles on this clutch/flywheel I want to get more use out of it for sure, and just get it adjusted/bled the best I can so I can enjoy the car without pissing off the synchros too bad

 

[CrackedDSM]

When it’s in its proper adjustment range it doesn’t grind, lately I just haven’t been able to get it to fully release no matter the adjustment, it still rolls a little at 7 grand on a clutch drag test. I did however notice a tiny bit of fluid the other day from the seal on the master under the dash, she’s got some miles on her so I’m also going to be swapping out my master and re bleeding again like I did a month ago with the new slave. I think it’s a great all around clutch, but again i still think we’re just asking a lot from the factory hydraulic system with heavy singles.

Still kinda worries me NGL. Wonder if the clutch itself is just too thick or something for our applications.

 

[Anfurnyy]

Still kinda worries me NGL. Wonder if the clutch itself is just too thick or something for our applications.

It's an incredibly unfortunate downfall of this platform. I guess I was spoiled with the 6mt out of my STI. Expecting that the hydraulic system should just work but I shouldn't have assumed.

There seems to be a whole finger pointing scenario happening when clutches don't disengage and there so many things it could be.

In my case:
2 1g OEM slaves
1 2g OEM slave ( currently installed)
2 OEM Master cylinders
1 Wildwood master cylinder ( currently installed)
1 OEM hard-line ( currently installed)
1 OEM braided steel
Clutch pedals been welded
1 act 6 puck sprung (RIP)
1 act 6 puck solid disk (RIP)
Countless bleeding sessions, manual 2 person, vacuum bled, 2 sets of speed bleeders, adjusted the master rod every way to Sunday.

I have NOT:
Pulled pressure plate and test disengagement on a press with feeler gauges. But honestly, that seems extreme for just needing to have a properly setup clutch engagement/disengagement.

At this point I'm just ready to move to a twin and have a properly disengaging clutch. I'll deal with the consequences later

 

[1cleangsx]

13 years ago. Self re built synchro trans with a twin disc clutch. Stock tcase, hd driveshaft and stock 4 bolt rear end.

Still kinda worries me NGL. Wonder if the clutch itself is just too thick or something for our applications.

Another thing tho is your on an SS plate correct? I’d imagine with a new master/slave and properly functioning pedal assembly you shouldn’t have any worries getting that 2200# plate to release

 

[CrackedDSM]

13 years ago. Self re built synchro trans with a twin disc clutch. Stock tcase, hd driveshaft and stock 4 bolt rear end.


Another thing tho is your on an SS plate correct? I’d imagine with a new master/slave and properly functioning pedal assembly you shouldn’t have any worries getting that 2200# plate to release

Yes. Just an SS plate. So that’s good to hear and comforts me.


Sorry for derailing your thread broseph, but I appreciate the help!

 

[Anfurnyy]

Made another post specifically about my clutch disengagement issues. It got some attention. it was recommended to go back to the factory 1g slave, and that my pressure plate step height seems fine. POST

Decided to give the ol 6 puck one last try so i ordered up another solid disk and going to try it. I got the disk Yesterday and just got most of the car back together with the exception of the turbo setup, reason being is that the turbo has to come off again to swap turbine housings.



I think i mentioned in an earlier post that when i put this new .83 housing on, the gap between the wheel and the housing seemed pretty large. I sent pictures of the turbine housing/wheel to my turbo guy and compared it to a picture of a housing off Pulsars site.
Big difference in the gap between them.
Mine
Pulsar

Turns out, due to some miscommunication, i was sent a Gen 3 housing, instead of a Gen 2. Theres about 6 mm difference on the inducer side, and 4mm difference on the exducer side of the turbine wheel:
Gen 2:
68/62
Gen 3:
74/66

SO we've already got the correct housing on the way and ill get that installed ASAP. Should see a significant decrease in spool time, hopefully with the correct fitting housing.

Got my Quaife front diff in also.