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Street Build 1G Build: Return of the DSMer!

Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Vegas not sure if you remember this from this far back or if you still have it setup this way but, you took this white wire on the FPS harness: (should be 57 on the ECU pinout?) http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf
and connected it as the switched source on the relays? or to the ground on the relays as a switched ground?
View attachment 642328
I'd like to set my fans up this same way (obviously with 2 separate dedicated relays)
Yes that’s used as a ground for your relay and controls the fans.
 

Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Lots of updates on this car; they'll be coming in the following days.
I went all-out of the crankcase/engine ventilation system. I installed the Vibrant catch can mentioned a couple of pages ago. I also installed an STM 6an vented dipstick. I know, overkill but I had an old beat-up dipstick and this one looks much nicer and will also directly vent the crankcase. I also added a Frontline Fab dipstick handle that I had sitting around for the longest time.

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pieceofcloth

Supporting Member
384
268
Oct 6, 2019
Houston, Texas
Lots of updates on this car; they'll be coming in the following days.
I went all-out of the crankcase/engine ventilation system. I installed the Vibrant catch can mentioned a couple of pages ago. I also installed an STM 6an vented dipstick. I know, overkill but I had an old beat-up dipstick and this one looks much nicer and will also directly vent the crankcase.

View attachment 644646View attachment 644647
Thats cray, i luv it
 

Ludachris

Founder & Zookeeper
7,920
2,570
Nov 12, 2001
Newcastle, California
Lots of updates on this car; they'll be coming in the following days.
I went all-out of the crankcase/engine ventilation system. I installed the Vibrant catch can mentioned a couple of pages ago. I also installed an STM 6an vented dipstick. I know, overkill but I had an old beat-up dipstick and this one looks much nicer and will also directly vent the crankcase.

View attachment 644646View attachment 644647
That is a pretty slick looking dipstick tube.
 

Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Relocated the battery to the trunk last year and ran some super thick wire and a Taylor battery box. 0awg or thicker. Can't remember. Installed a 200a breaker inline. The box is not quite level as it's slightly hitting the spare tire hump. I've been thinking about leveling it out with some spray foam or something.

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Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
The little helper has been hard at work losing bolts, chipping my new paint and generally getting in the way, but it's worth it to spend time with him. He loves being in the garage.

I had some spare harnesses that I was pondering building a new harness but I said screw it. I'm ordering a new harness from Gago Wiring that will contain IGN1A smart coils. No more CDI, PTU or spark plug wires.

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AWD-Tony

Supporting Member
6,666
3,543
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio

AWD-Tony

Supporting Member
6,666
3,543
Sep 11, 2017
Cincinnati, Ohio
The little helper has been hard at work losing bolts, chipping my new paint and generally getting in the way, but it's worth it to spend time with him. He loves being in the garage.

I had some spare harnesses that I was pondering building a new harness but I said screw it. I'm ordering a new harness from Gago Wiring that will contain IGN1A smart coils. No more CDI, PTU or spark plug wires.

View attachment 644653View attachment 644654View attachment 644656View attachment 644659View attachment 644660View attachment 644661
The real driver/weekend warrior of the household 🤣
 

Dhan

Supporting Member
3,771
182
Apr 29, 2010
Denver, Colorado
First off, been watching this build for a while. Very cool and an inspiration! When I hit the inevitable snags or hardships with my car, it's somehow easier to deal with knowing there's other DSMers out there facing the same BS :thumb:

Second, I was looking for clarification on your catch can setup. Early on, you had a "sealed" setup where you were drawing on the intake pipe to create a vacuum that helped pull gases from the stock VC. Then you switched to the MCR VC which led to way too much oil. This was because of the MCR baffles being ineffective. So, you modified the MCR baffles and raised the catch can. This seems to have helped alleviate the issue. But would switching back to the OEM VC also have likely fixed this problem?
And, you say you now have the catch can "open", I assume that means vented to atmosphere and NO vacuum to pull anymore. My question is, where is it open? Is there a hose coming out of the bottom of the can or is the opening that mesh on the top of the can? I keep reading this can lead to messes in the engine bay when oil sprays all over the place.

I ask all this cause I have my own crankcase pressure issues since my rebuild and there seems to be two major schools of thought on the topic- vented v. sealed. So, trying to make my initial catch can setup the most effective possible :hellyeah:
 

Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Yeah, your summary of the build is correct. On my oem valve cover I did not lose a drop of oil at 37-38psi. I'm telling you not a drop and that was with a sealed setup with gamble catch can and simple aluminum plate as a baffle. I change to the MCR vc and all of the sudden oil is seeping out of the catch can. The frickin car almost ran out of oil. I absolutely could have went back to the OEM vc and been totally fine but I really wanted to make the billet cover work because 1) it's very beautiful 2) it's not 30yo and will not crack. Also, having your entire manifold and intercooler pipe system coated in oil in really really sucks and I never wanted to deal with that again. That was the final straw. Not only are you sucking in inert gases that will hinder your combustion, you're possibly sucking in oil. Will the car engine run better with a sealed? Maybe?I guess.

At the end of the day pick whichever one you want and go with it. If it's going to bother you leaving 10-15hp on table by not going sealed then just go sealed. If you believe the inert gases and oil are going to harm you then go open. Either way is fine

As for the Vibrant can, it has a mesh stainless steel filter. It's a very sleek design.

IMG_1311.jpg
 
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Dhan

Supporting Member
3,771
182
Apr 29, 2010
Denver, Colorado
Thanks for the explanation! That Vibrant catch can is sharp! I went with a Mishimoto catch can (first Mishimoto product I've ever tried) because they offer a way to recirculate into the intake and pull with a vacuum. I'm only on a small 16g and E85 at low 20s psi, but my rebuilt motor seems to have a lot of blow-by and dipstick action even at the low power level. Haven't actually measured the crankcase pressure, so no hard data. I suppose I'll stick with my original plan and see how a sealed system works on my car. Can always change it up!

And after all the reading I've done, I definitely agree that vented v. sealed is subjective and you just gotta run what's best for your individual setup.

PS. that STM vented dipstick is slick. Definitely gonna steal that idea :cool:
 
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Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Thanks for the explanation! That Vibrant catch can is sharp! I went with a Mishimoto catch can (first Mishimoto product I've ever tried) because they offer a way to recirculate into the intake and pull with a vacuum. I'm only on a small 16g and E85 at low 20s psi, but my rebuilt motor seems to have a lot of blow-by and dipstick action even at the low power level. Haven't actually measured the crankcase pressure, so no hard data. I suppose I'll stick with my original plan and see how a sealed system works on my car. Can always change it up!

And after all the reading I've done, I definitely agree that vented v. sealed is subjective and you just gotta run what's best for your individual setup.

PS. that STM vented dipstick is slick. Definitely gonna steal that idea :cool:
Remember that you would want the dipstick vent recirculated too otherwise you’re vacuum setup would no longer work.
 

Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Finally got around to installing a heatshield on the carbon fiber hood I've had for a while. All my hot parts are ceramic coated so it doesn't get too hot but it's worth it not to let the paint get destroyed on the hood. I made sure to buy some trim-specific adhesive because it didn't want this shit to fall off because I bought some random cheap adhesive. So far so good.

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Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
I've been driving around with a dying rear diff for about 2 years. I originally bought an Evo LSD to convert it over as well some the parts needed for conversion but I realized it was just a waste of money. I don't have any intention of pushing the car handling-wise so I wound up selling everything and sending my backup rear end to TMZ for a basic rebuild. Took 7 months to get it back but that's in the past, and I'm glad to finally drive the car without feeling like the rear end is going to explode any second. Really didn't feel like rebuilding it myself and screwing something up. I don't have energy to do things twice anymore.

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Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Well, bad news. My Manley H-beams gave out on me. Engine started knocking lightly at idle and would go away when driving. Never increased with rpm. I thought it was something drivetrain related but was wrong. The engine gave out at half throttle right outside my neighborhood. Not sure why one rod failed. They're usually good for 700hp. I'm guessing I was at 625-650. Oh well.
I had just left the neighboorhood to get a pull in, so I got on it a little bit and the engine just totally gave out smoke and all. Luckily, it was a Sunday evening and I had enough momentum to roll about a 1/8mile into a closed-up storage unit parking lot. Left a nasty puddle of oil there. Sorry storage unit people.

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Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
I found some local Pauter X-beams for $450 and went with some CP 9:0 pistons with upgraded wrist pins. I was thinking of doing the Wiseco HDs at 10:5cr but I really don’t need the extra compression/power. This isn’t a max effort or competition build so I didn’t want the extra compression that could cause me issues down the road. Old pistons are standard 8:5 Wisecos so I’ll have a slight bump in cr.

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1cleangsx

Proven Member
723
603
Sep 28, 2013
Cheyenne, Wyoming
Man that sucks! I’m excited for you tho on all the future plans:rocks:! You don’t hear of h beams breaking too often, you must’ve been makin some jam on that Xona:hellyeah:
 

Vegas Smith

15+ Year Contributor
4,959
2,805
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Man that sucks! I’m excited for you tho on all the future plans:rocks:! You don’t hear of h beams breaking too often, you must’ve been makin some jam on that Xona:hellyeah:
Yeah, it does suck especially considering I was done spending money on the car for a while. As always, it's going to come back bigger and better than before.
 
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