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Street Build 1G Build: Return of the DSMer!

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,673
2,474
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Was there anything not good about the AEM 5 bar? Any particular reason why you went from it to the Link 4 bar?
No, nothing wrong with it but I like to keep the map sensor close to the level of boost I run so I wound up selling it when I moved to Link ecu. I never had any problems, but I've heard of issues with poorer resolution with the larger map sensors. I wouldn't hesitate to run it again or recommend it.
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,294
206
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
No, nothing wrong with it but I like to keep the map sensor close to the level of boost I run so I wound up selling it when I moved to Link ecu. I never had any problems, but I've heard of issues with poorer resolution with the larger map sensors. I wouldn't hesitate to run it again or recommend it.

Yeah I know exactly what you mean about the resolution. I could probably actually use the 0 to 50 psia AEM sensor instead, because that should be good for up to ~35 psi of boost, and the most boost my car ever has seen was 34 psi, and that was on the dyno when it was being tuned. I never have run it that high.
But according to AEM, the 0 to 75 psia sensor has half a percent of full scale accuracy whereas the 0 to 50 psia sensor only has 1% of full scale accuracy. I don't know why the heck that would be, but if it's true, the 0-75 would be a little more accurate.
But that accuracy could get wasted by the ecu. The ecu measuring that voltage would have to be darn accurate to not waste it.
If there are more volts per psi, the ecu's job of measuring is "easier" and the 0-50 has "more volts per psi".
So I'm kind of hanging back for a few days here to mull it over. LOL
 
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Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,673
2,474
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Yeah I know exactly what you mean about the resolution. I could probably actually use the 0 to 50 psia AEM sensor instead, because that should be good for up to ~35 psi of boost, and the most boost my car ever has seen was 34 psi, and that was on the dyno when it was being tuned. I never have run it that high.
But according to AEM, the 0 to 75 psia sensor has half a percent of full scale accuracy whereas the 0 to 50 psia sensor only has 1% of full scale accuracy. I don't know why the heck that would be, but if it's true, the 0-75 would be a little more accurate.
But that accuracy could get wasted by the ecu. The ecu measuring that voltage would have to be darn accurate to not waste it.
If there are more volts per psi, the ecu's job of measuring is "easier" and the 0-50 has "more volts per psi".
So I'm kind of hanging back for a few days here to mull it over. LOL
Meh, I wouldn't think too hard about it. I would leave an extra 5psi of boost over your target. What ecu are you running? The newer ecus are a million times faster than ecmlink so maybe they're more accurate? Not sure. I know my Link G4+ drives smoother than ecmlink.
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,294
206
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
I think so too, it's good to have a little excess range on the MAP. So I ordered a 5 bar AEM.
I am using the 1990 ecu that was in the car when it was new, socketed and soforth by ECMtuning, and V3.
I am not looking forward to the day when that ecu develops some fault or blows a driver or something. My plan A is to just go with it, but I want to pay attention to the newer ecu hardware just in case.
I could believe that the newer stand-alones are faster and more accurate. And that they wouldn't have any funky inputs like our EGRtemp and the 2g Baro inputs which have input impedance too low.
I thought you weren't going to use the G4+. Is that what you are using now?
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,673
2,474
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
I think so too, it's good to have a little excess range on the MAP. So I ordered a 5 bar AEM.
I am using the 1990 ecu that was in the car when it was new, socketed and soforth by ECMtuning, and V3.
I am not looking forward to the day when that ecu develops some fault or blows a driver or something. My plan A is to just go with it, but I want to pay attention to the newer ecu hardware just in case.
I could believe that the newer stand-alones are faster and more accurate. And that they wouldn't have any funky inputs like our EGRtemp and the 2g Baro inputs which have input impedance too low.
I thought you weren't going to use the G4+. Is that what you are using now?
I went back to the G4+ and have been using that for a couple of months. Much faster ecu with more safety features etc. I finally decided to leave ecmlink when I decided to get a new harness made. Do I want to drop $1200 on a new harness to connect to a 30yo ecu? That's when I decided to switch.
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,294
206
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
I'm kind of glad that you decided to go ahead with the G4+. Because probably a bunch of us will wind up going that way sooner or later. You have the plug-in one they make for the GVR4 and 1G DSM, right? Link calls it the VR4Link - VR4X?
https://dealers.linkecu.com/VR4X_2
The manual I see for it online is only 18 pages. Is there a much longer manual that comes with it when you buy it?
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,673
2,474
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
I'm kind of glad that you decided to go ahead with the G4+. Because probably a bunch of us will wind up going that way sooner or later. You have the plug-in one they make for the GVR4 and 1G DSM, right? Link calls it the VR4Link - VR4X?
https://dealers.linkecu.com/VR4X_2
The manual I see for it online is only 18 pages. Is there a much longer manual that comes with it when you buy it?
The VR4X is the latest version and that's what you linked. I have the earlier G4+ (VR4+). The Link software comes with a giant help file that defines every value and system the ecu has. It's super helpful and teaches you a lot about tuning. It's much more complex than ecmink but has so many useful features. You can even log your runs without laptop. So convenient.
 
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TCB91GSX

Proven Member
131
58
Jan 11, 2021
Denver, Colorado
I decided to sell off Link g4+ and ride ecmlink to the end. I've had some bad/good luck of avoiding an oil leak, overheating, alternator disconnect catastrophe by an inch in the past so it's important to have better fail-safes and warnings against low oil pressure, battery voltage, and coolant temps. These have all bit me in the past.

I decided to get all new Innovate gauges while also switching from the LC2 to MTXL-Plus wideband. I also put in a new switched relay/fuse panel in my armrest to control all gauges.

I located the coolant temp sensor in the back of the thermostat housing. It bolted right in without a struggle.
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Quick ? on the Innovate oil pressure/temp gauge.

Did you only use the pressure sensor aspect of the gauge or did you throw the temp sensor somewhere as well ?



Thanks!
 

We're on Boost

Proven Member
1,294
206
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
The VR4X is the latest version and that's what you linked. I have the earlier G4+ (VR4+). The Link software comes with a giant help file that defines every value and system the ecu has. It's super helpful and teaches you a lot about tuning. It's much more complex than ecmink but has so many useful features. You can even log your runs without laptop. So convenient.

Ok good. I found their page where you can download the big manual which, for the G4X, is 67MB (lots of stuff) so probably that is the same as the giant help file you mentioned?
https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

I like it that in the logs you can have each parameter in its own chart with the vertical axis numbers scaled appropriately to that parameter (Grouped Mode) rather than having everything all slammed together with no particular vertical scale (overlay mode).
But holy cow it took me a long time today to even find that again in the user manual after having seen it once about 10 days ago.
It's under "Logging Operating Procedures, Logging Views, Time Plot". Of course.

On their page for the VR4Link - VR4X there is a bullet that says "Knock control not available on this ECU".
That seems like it would be a little problem?
 

Vegas Smith

Proven Member
4,673
2,474
Dec 2, 2002
Houston, Texas
Ok good. I found their page where you can download the big manual which, for the G4X, is 67MB (lots of stuff) so probably that is the same as the giant help file you mentioned?
https://linkecu.com/software-support/pc-link-downloads/

I like it that in the logs you can have each parameter in its own chart with the vertical axis numbers scaled appropriately to that parameter (Grouped Mode) rather than having everything all slammed together with no particular vertical scale (overlay mode).
But holy cow it took me a long time today to even find that again in the user manual after having seen it once about 10 days ago.
It's under "Logging Operating Procedures, Logging Views, Time Plot". Of course.

On their page for the VR4Link - VR4X there is a bullet that says "Knock control not available on this ECU".
That seems like it would be a little problem?
You create different pages for each section of tuning. For example, I have a page dedicated to idle that has every relevant section on idle and you don’t have to skip back and forth between pages. It’s all custom.

As for the knock sensor, I run e85 exclusively and you don’t tune e85 cars based on knock. At least that’s how multiple tuners have explained it to me. If your car is knocking on e85 then something has likely blown up already. Once again, that’s how it was explained to me. Therefore, no real need for knock sensor. Haven’t had mine turned on in a while. However, you can send your ecu in to Link and they will wire up the knock sensor so it is capable.
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
243
189
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
I also did some research on how to control the fans optimally. It's been a long road to this final solution for the fans. The car originally came with toggle switches in the cockpit where you had to manually turn them on and off. Ridiculous to me. I then wound up buying a temp switch and installed it into my thermostat housing for more accuracy than sticking it in the radiator. That was fine but I wanted optimum control over the fans. What better thing to worry about than when your stupid fans turn on? Trump, immigration, declining IQs, small or big 16g? I found a great solution thanks to some of the wisemen on this board. I tapped my fps white wire that terminates behind my clutch master reservoir and ran to both of my signal grounds (relay pin 86?). From that point, you can pretty much run the fans with all kinds of user-defined settings like as you'll see in the picture. I turn my fans off at WOT and turn them on and off and certain temperatures. Check it out. Very worthwhile. Make sure you have the very latest software AND FIRMWARE.
Vegas not sure if you remember this from this far back or if you still have it setup this way but, you took this white wire on the FPS harness: (should be 57 on the ECU pinout?) http://www.dsmlink.com/images/forums/1GECUPinout.pdf
and connected it as the switched source on the relays? or to the ground on the relays as a switched ground?
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I'd like to set my fans up this same way (obviously with 2 separate dedicated relays)
 
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