1G ***** 1G BILLET REAR BRAKE CALIPER DISCUSSION / INPUT *****

[EC17PSE]

Hey everyone​

This is a 1G specific post for the rear calipers I'm going to soon be working on and I have some ideas and wish to run them by you all so not only I can voice my options / plans but also get your input and thoughts also!

THIS WILL BE THE ONLY place for discussion on them.

Since I do the front calipers I am planning the rears ahead ready for the next steps.

SO.....

My plans for the 1G rear caliper from initial pre design and plans have grown some and this is why I am here. I want to make sure I bring a great setup but also an option for a wide range of people and budgets plus usage. When i get thinking I REALLY get thinking and think of many options I could possibly offer but this is also bad and can spiral at the same time, so bare with me on this as I lay down some basics on initial plans and the expanded plans! it could get hectic in here haha

This is just a discussion based thread for now. I do not have any designs or visuals to share right now. I will work solely from the feedback received on my below details.

***1G ORIGINAL PLANS***
This involved a caliper with a built in hand brake type pad that's separate from the normal braking pistons. its function is purely for the handbrake holding, this means maintenance is much much easier as you treat it the same as any non sprung internal piston ( IE front calipers ) the OEM handbrake cable will likely be retained and an adaptor of some kind will be used to attach to the calipers handbrake system meaning its as bolt on as possible for you all.
This will be in the form of a 2 piston or 4 piston caliper!

working around rotor specs and clearance's etc I'm working around my front kits currently and how far the caliper sits as to what rear rotor setup and space available for the caliper so it wont be no further out then the front calipers are!

This would be using a slightly modified off the shelf VENTED rotor!!! ( hub bore change ) which I will supply, specs would be listed also incase any one wishes to do it them selves at their own risk!!!
I'm working to around a 300mm rotor currently, single piece rotor. so for those running my calipers in front now using 320mm rotors then the rear using 300mm is following the Evo specs closely enough

I am able to and willing to offer 2 piece rotors for better weight savings but this will also add costs but the option is possibly available! development costs money so bare this in mind also.

***1G SPIRALING PLANS***

So the more I thought about it I came up with other ideas, the general rotor idea is the same as above but the caliper setup would be different and here i will list the items singly for the basic run down

* 2 or 4 piston calipers (no handbrake pads/device)

** use of a hydraulic handbrake for the above non handbrake caliper type. it can be locking so you will just use the fluid for all handbrake needs, modification to make one fit of your choice would be up to the customers requirements and specifics, similar to a drifters handbrake for those wishing to check one out.

*** separate spot caliper for handbrake usage only / this would mean you would have 2 calipers on the rotor vs 1 like supercars have but this will add costs as you now have more calipers and the adaptor brackets would be different


These are just some of the wild ideas I had along the thought process! Im sure I could whip up more but I dont wish to over complicate it any more

If both options are of peoples liking im sure I could look into this also but 1 might have to come first as I might not have the budget to do both developments straight off back to back!

AS with the post rules I dont have prices nor are allowed to discuss prices here. Once I know these details I can then post in the freelancer section with the estimated prices



PLEASE DISCUSS YOUR THOUGHTS WITH ME ON THIS. I AM HERE TO LISTEN / READ AND GET AS MUCH INFO FROM YOU ALL SO I CAN GET THE BEST POSSIBLE SETUP FOR THE 1G CHASSIS GOING
ALL IDEAS WELCOME AND IF YOU HAVE ANOTHER PLEASE DO SHARE IT WITH ME

Thank you all for reading

Bobby

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[saturn345]

I am in for some 1g caliper setup’s for the rear!!!

 

[pagosa dsm]

This my set up for the rear 92 Talon.
I used a rotor from a 96 Corvette with a PBR 96 Corvette caliper. It has an E brake.

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[EC17PSE]

this my set up for the rear 92 talon.I used a rotor from a 96 Corvette with a PBR 96 Corvette caliper. It has an E

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brake .

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So going a deeper rotor height i guess you got rid of your shields correct? Im working around with keeping them as im sure some wont wish to give those up for oem reasons.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I'm also down for a set of these. The OEM 1g rear brakes are a straight up nightmare to do when you have to change the pads. Even if you fabbed a custom tiny single piston caliper that worked solely for the e-brake, that'd be fine too.

Something to look into, the Ford Edge(2015-2023+) models have a rear caliper very similar to ours in functionality. Except theirs uses an electric "parking brake" feature. Why that's important, is when you put the rear brakes into maintenance mode, the electric motor winds the e-brake/piston of the caliper all the way in for you, so you can actually just push the piston all the way down by hand since the hard work has been done. Whatever is easiest for you and us. Either way, I'll send a deposit soon as you start making them/accepting them. Because on God I will never do 1G rear brakes again. If I have to do it again I am going to add a second master cylinder running lines to a second caliper that functions solely as the e-brake(like the drift guys do for their "drift brake" setups).

 

[EC17PSE]

I'm also down for a set of these. The OEM 1g rear brakes are a straight up nightmare to do when you have to change the pads. Even if you fabbed a custom tiny single piston caliper that worked solely for the e-brake, that'd be fine too.

Something to look into, the Ford Edge(2015-2023+) models have a rear caliper very similar to ours in functionality. Except theirs uses an electric "parking brake" feature. Why that's important, is when you put the rear brakes into maintenance mode, the electric motor winds the e-brake/piston of the caliper all the way in for you, so you can actually just push the piston all the way down by hand since the hard work has been done. Whatever is easiest for you and us. Either way, I'll send a deposit soon as you start making them/accepting them. Because on God I will never do 1G rear brakes again. If I have to do it again I am going to add a second master cylinder running lines to a second caliper that functions solely as the e-brake(like the drift guys do for their "drift brake" setups).

Electronic is a problem as its more expensive and if electronics fail its a pain to fix and so much more to resolve, me, personally, am not a fan of this complexity and potential failure of the electric part. if its something someone REALLY wanted and wants to pay the electronic premium im sure something could be worked out

a separate caliper is a possibility as i mentioned above, people could have options on this so i could design the mounting bracketry to allow both if space is available. this is one bit i need to confirm space wise. having both ready could mean later on its possible to upgrade to a spot caliper if required, BUT of course I have to confirm this theory can work before committing to it! currently its my pre theory based on images and what I remember of my friends 1G. we are going to confirm our rear ends soon to see the difference between the fwd and awd rear trailing arm and if one with fit both or separate adaptors and so forth.

having a custom E brake thats on its own single line and res pot would be somewhat simple setup, the hardest part would be the mounting of the ebrake only, thankfully so many options available these days to choose from people are spoilt for choice! and NO im not likely to make my own E brake

hmmmm

Or could i for an oem effect!!! haha

 

[CrackedDSM]

Electronic is a problem as its more expensive and if electronics fail its a pain to fix and so much more to resolve, me, personally, am not a fan of this complexity and potential failure of the electric part. if its something someone REALLY wanted and wants to pay the electronic premium im sure something could be worked out

a separate caliper is a possibility as i mentioned above, people could have options on this so i could design the mounting bracketry to allow both if space is available. this is one bit i need to confirm space wise. having both ready could mean later on its possible to upgrade to a spot caliper if required, BUT of course I have to confirm this theory can work before committing to it! currently its my pre theory based on images and what I remember of my friends 1G. we are going to confirm our rear ends soon to see the difference between the fwd and awd rear trailing arm and if one with fit both or separate adaptors and so forth.

having a custom E brake thats on its own single line and res pot would be somewhat simple setup, the hardest part would be the mounting of the ebrake only, thankfully so many options available these days to choose from people are spoilt for choice! and NO im not likely to make my own E brake

hmmmm

Or could i for an oem effect!!! haha

If you need a 1G rear AWD caliper to use for bolt spacing and etc, I can send you one if you pay shipping. I have a couple spares. I also have 1G rear FWD calipers too so you can compare the two.

I'm very serious about this. Lol. I f*****g hate the oem 1G rear brake setup. Absolute idiocy.

 

[EC17PSE]

If you need a 1G rear AWD caliper to use for bolt spacing and etc, I can send you one if you pay shipping. I have a couple spares. I also have 1G rear FWD calipers too so you can compare the two.

I'm very serious about this. Lol. I f*****g hate the oem 1G rear brake setup. Absolute idiocy.

Im all good dude but thanks. I got my friends awd and my fwd here so between us I should be able to compare what will work with both to simplify it all.

I shall do my best to get this all done.

 

[pagosa dsm]

So going a deeper rotor height i guess you got rid of your shields correct? Im working around with keeping them as im sure some wont wish to give those up for oem reasons.

the Corvette rotor is 12"x .750 vented rotor. the reason I picked this rotor was because it was within a mm offset of the factory rotor.

 

[Car Cannibal]

Well I've got your fuel filler neck and will get this too but here's something to keep in mind...

Make the performance better so probably 4 pistons but not to the point to where things get too custom or need 18" wheels, easy to install, rebuild and preferably bolt on vs really custom modding/cutting, rotor is somewhat large but affordable and easy to locate, same with pads something that's common size, caliper uses the factory e brake and the potential here is huge and you'll sell and get the most out of your time.

Make this hard for all 1g owners, we decide to rebuild the stock calipers, maybe find a used set and deal with this in like 10k miles again or your kit which if follows the above gets most 1g owners to just bail and come to your setup and end the madness.

Do a kick ass job, reset the market and then there's no need to hoard rear awd calipers moving forwards and for decades to come the 1g will cure another sore spot, rear calipers. This mod can make the car better, that's hard to say after 30 years, you can do it!!

I'll buy the 2nd set, I want to see the first set work.

 

[bastarddsm]

I'm also down for a set of these. The OEM 1g rear brakes are a straight up nightmare to do when you have to change the pads. Even if you fabbed a custom tiny single piston caliper that worked solely for the e-brake, that'd be fine too.

Something to look into, the Ford Edge(2015-2023+) models have a rear caliper very similar to ours in functionality. Except theirs uses an electric "parking brake" feature. Why that's important, is when you put the rear brakes into maintenance mode, the electric motor winds the e-brake/piston of the caliper all the way in for you, so you can actually just push the piston all the way down by hand since the hard work has been done. Whatever is easiest for you and us. Either way, I'll send a deposit soon as you start making them/accepting them. Because on God I will never do 1G rear brakes again. If I have to do it again I am going to add a second master cylinder running lines to a second caliper that functions solely as the e-brake(like the drift guys do for their "drift brake" setups).

Thanks for the tip on electric parking calipers. Willwood has them on the shelf allready Pricey at $350/side. But considering it's probably impossible to find a set of new cables now or soon, it starts looking better. I just picked up a pair of brand new afco calipers for the rear of my new car, $48 ea. Will work on stock rotors, just looses the ebrake funciton, but it's a drag car and many of the staging brakes out there have a ratchet function.


A kit that hooks a staging brake master to the e brake lever might be better than trying to reinvent the wheel here. There are hundreds of calipers out there from world class manufacturers, with real engineering, real testing, real qc, real racing pedigrees and for good prices. Idk why we are trying to fix whats not broken. The stock caliper works, and works good unless you need an already existing race brake setup. Make a new 1g replacement caliper, or a kit to adapt an existing commodity caliper.

 

[EC17PSE]

Well I've got your fuel filler neck and will get this too but here's something to keep in mind...

Make the performance better so probably 4 pistons but not to the point to where things get too custom or need 18" wheels, easy to install, rebuild and preferably bolt on vs really custom modding/cutting, rotor is somewhat large but affordable and easy to locate, same with pads something that's common size, caliper uses the factory e brake and the potential here is huge and you'll sell and get the most out of your time.

Make this hard for all 1g owners, we decide to rebuild the stock calipers, maybe find a used set and deal with this in like 10k miles again or your kit which if follows the above gets most 1g owners to just bail and come to your setup and end the madness.

Do a kick ass job, reset the market and then there's no need to hoard rear awd calipers moving forwards and for decades to come the 1g will cure another sore spot, rear calipers. This mod can make the car better, that's hard to say after 30 years, you can do it!!

I'll buy the 2nd set, I want to see the first set work.

It will fit under a 17" wheel fine and wont be any worse off then the front calipers i do currently so it will match with what ever wheels are currently used to not have to stagger wheels.

Everything will be rebuildable of course. I wont make anything thats tricky or tough to redo when the time comes. Pads are a common AP racing pad shape so easily had so most of the best from EBC to mintex and then the racing ones also with higher rated compounds for those wishing for more racing pad requirements.

I will never make it super complicated of course, you know me and my logic of trying to make it work as easy as possible and simplify things. Its also why i try to make it cost effective for upgrading later if its possible so i plan as much out as possible for this.

Rotors are available in the US also in one of my sizes. But the center bore needs to be enlarged as im going to use a nice sized vented rotor but other then that its a direct fit. In the next week or two i will have a sample of this to show. The rotor size options will be 300mm and 320mm for those wishing to go bigger. I can now do 350mm front rotor sizing so the 320 rear will match nicely

 

[EC17PSE]

Thanks for the tip on electric parking calipers. Willwood has them on the shelf allready Pricey at $350/side. But considering it's probably impossible to find a set of new cables now or soon, it starts looking better. I just picked up a pair of brand new afco calipers for the rear of my new car, $48 ea. Will work on stock rotors, just looses the ebrake funciton, but it's a drag car and many of the staging brakes out there have a ratchet function.


A kit that hooks a staging brake master to the e brake lever might be better than trying to reinvent the wheel here. There are hundreds of calipers out there from world class manufacturers, with real engineering, real testing, real qc, real racing pedigrees and for good prices. Idk why we are trying to fix whats not broken. The stock caliper works, and works good unless you need an already existing race brake setup. Make a new 1g replacement caliper, or a kit to adapt an existing commodity caliper.

Never a dull moment when you show up that's for sure

If people wish to keep oem calipers they can do but this is NOT the place to discuss that! I'm after HELPFUL insight and feedback not what you always give which is pretty much negative all the time! You do it with ALOT of members who make items AND design bits! Its not helpful and rude!

As for electronic sure its an option but a costly one and a lot don't like a button for a handbrake! If a motor goes bad most of the time the entire caliper gets replaced as its not always serviceable! And the ecu! Ever considered that if it goes wrong?

As for the rest of the comments well... The manufacture I work with and have been for a while now makes brakes for OEM applications so please don't assume quality and name brands etc as you are just wrong on EVERY level! My 2 piece rotors are basically AP units from the same factory and casting tools with the same vein count! Quality is NOT something that's skipped on! You CAN go buy any other manufacture and i wish you do so as my items wont be of any use to you but you are not ALL the DSM members are you!

If you have options then please start your own thread on what you found and share with everyone else the upgrades you do! After all you seem so content in knowing more and better so please do share with the forums in a write up for all to see!!

Things like cables are able to be reproduced. Its not impossible to do so dont worry your brain about that one. If they need redoing then I will add it to my longgg list .

As always its a pleasure you stopping by! If you wish to add any HELPFUL info then please do comment again!

If you wish to bash and be negative then please dont comment!

Im trying to help us as a community and you insist on pissing people off on the regular on here and FB. If you can do something or feel better then please do so!!!

 

[4g63awdtalon]

Race fab used to make backing plates to run 2g /Evo internal parking brakes on a galant vr4 while using Evo calipers.

 

[Devilsfutbol17]

I like the idea of the first option but either way something simple to adapt would be awesome.

 

[pagosa dsm]

Never a dull moment when you show up that's for sure

If people wish to keep oem calipers they can do but this is NOT the place to discuss that! I'm after HELPFUL insight and feedback not what you always give which is pretty much negative all the time! You do it with ALOT of members who make items AND design bits! Its not helpful and rude!

As for electronic sure its an option but a costly one and a lot don't like a button for a handbrake! If a motor goes bad most of the time the entire caliper gets replaced as its not always serviceable! And the ecu! Ever considered that if it goes wrong?

As for the rest of the comments well... The manufacture I work with and have been for a while now makes brakes for OEM applications so please don't assume quality and name brands etc as you are just wrong on EVERY level! My 2 piece rotors are basically AP units from the same factory and casting tools with the same vein count! Quality is NOT something that's skipped on! You CAN go buy any other manufacture and i wish you do so as my items wont be of any use to you but you are not ALL the DSM members are you!

If you have options then please start your own thread on what you found and share with everyone else the upgrades you do! After all you seem so content in knowing more and better so please do share with the forums in a write up for all to see!!

Things like cables are able to be reproduced. Its not impossible to do so dont worry your brain about that one. If they need redoing then I will add it to my longgg list .

As always its a pleasure you stopping by! If you wish to add any HELPFUL info then please do comment again!

If you wish to bash and be negative then please dont comment!

Im trying to help us as a community and you insist on pissing people off on the regular on here and FB. If you can do something or feel better then please do so!!!

I shared my ideas to you. I am excited to see what you come up with.

 

[EC17PSE]

Little update on this to move it forward a small bit.

I had some rotors machined for the center bore for the 300+320 but when i received them i was not happy about the weight ( i did opt for thick rotors ) these came in at 9.7kg! Heavy buggers vs the stock just under 4kg ones, being thinner but still vented is where you lose some of the weight so it all helps. 2 piece rotors can still lose more weight but end up costing more for the process.

So i got back to searching and opted to keep to a mitsubishi chassis since its easier to find in the US, needs no machining work so can be bought and used off the shelf! And weights 6.1kg so its alot lighter then my first option!

Going this route also means I have to now go with 1 size option vs 2! which will work well and still offer a massive improvement over stock size.

Im using a 2G rear bearing to check against here with the 1g rotor and the new one so they fit up all ok.

Least this part is now approved and will work in the future moving on.

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[EC17PSE]

So Im closing in on both of the 2G rears being complete now. The 300mm kit is done and 330mm is next to be made up.

Looking ahead of this I have asked some members outside of tuners if a 2 piston or a 4 piston is more likely to be wanted.

Can i get some general ideas on what the MASSES would most likely be opting for?
As above I can do both and no doubt I will end up going that route but if 2 piston is mostly the way forward I will start there and then go to the 4 piston for people wishing to do so.

Thanks for your time and responses ahead of time

 

[Car Cannibal]

4 piston with E brake that has a simple bolt on rotor.

While you can make a 2 piston, those people can just rebuild stock calipers if they want that, your value is new, bolt on, high quality, e brake with improved performance.

Then bigger rotor people are next, but same caliper on your end to really to help limited production be good for you and us.

 

[pagosa dsm]

can someone show a picture or name a manufacture that has a 2 or 4 piston caliper with an E brake ?

 

[troppo loungo]

Or a separate parking caliper like wilwood mc4. That might be an elaborate dual caliper bracket and expensive. A 2 or 4 pot with built in ebrake is rare or doesn't exist. Even vipers, Ferrari, Audi R8 have a single pot rear brake when there is an integral ebrake. I wouldn't get hung up on number of pistons. The fronts do most of the work. My modified 400 hp 4000 lb bmw x3 has single piston front calipers and works well with upgraded pads. Upgrades are fairly useless without a larger and preferably vented rotor. The 300 mm ppr vette upgrade looks mighty tempting if considering ebrake, cost, and simplicity. Let's get a bracket and cable extension kit going. Baer makes 2pc rotors for this although machining a hat should be simple and the discs can be sourced from Coleman racing and they can make custom hats and rotors as well.

For a 4 pot caliper, some type of line lock in lieu of an ebrake would be a great idea if it was practical to use and install.