forcefed86
15+ Year Contributor
- 1,007
- 12
- May 23, 2006
-
wichita,
Kansas
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The later FSM says the sense is the Black/Yellow wire to pin 1 of the alternator connector and runs to subfusible link 4.
So shouldn't the S term have power even with the IGN off? Since the 90 FSM is showing a picture of the actual alternator, that would mean that mitsu changed there terminals around on the alternator? That seems odd... think you could take a snap shot of that for me?
I double checked the 90, 91, and 92-94 Eclipse electrical hardcopy FSMs this morning and I misread the PDF last night. You're correct that it's a 2mm Yellow wire. I read the F (for flexable) as a badly scanned B in the PDF version. All the manuals agree that the S terminal is pin 1 of the connector and the L terminal is pin 2.
The way the diagrams show, yes the S terminal should have power all the time since there is only the 30A subfusible link and the Alternator fuse between it and the battery. #4 on 90 and 91's also powers the headlight pop-up motors.
The only place I found the image you posted was in the 90 DSM Technical Manual where the actual wiring diagrams are in the Electrical FSM under Charging System and Power Distribution. The PDF I was looking at last night is the same one as you can download. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/fre...tions/344490-download-1g-service-manuals.html
Any ideas why jumping a 12V source (+bat term.) to the field coil would take out the alternator? I'm still puzzled by this and don't want the hassle of frying another alternator.
No, I understand how the alternator works in general but not specifics that might cause something like this. Both circuits that provide energizing voltage to the L terminal on startup have current limiting resistors but I don't know if that's a requirement or just for safety in case of a short.
Just use a big 400X series diode. As you discovered it's there to keep the alternator from back feeding into the ignition switch. You'll note that there is also one in the warning light path.
The diode just have to stand up to the reverse voltage from the L terminal so a diode with a couple hundred volt PIV should be fine.
First, wrong diode. Second you installed it backward. Third think about why the resistor gets hot.
Go google ohms law and look at how to calculate power. Those watts have to go somewhere and in a resistor they turn into heat.
How did I install it back wards? The black stripe faces up on the original diode and on my installation? Is the black stripe not the indication of direction of flow.
It's the band that marks the Cathode but is the diode body is black the band is another color line silver or white. When the body is clear a black band is common.
The black band on your zener diode marks it's cathode so I'd say it was installed backward. Do you agree?
Sorry to zombie bump but I was wondering if you did anything to compensate in the tune for the extra fuel you would get manually turning the switch to on.