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1G 1g 7 bolt timing belt tensioner arm the same as 2g?

Cherry

Proven Member
277
60
Jun 16, 2019
Hull, Georgia
I have a 1g 7 bolt 4g63 and the timing belt is riding the inside of the cam gears (overlapping the edge a little) and did research to find the cause is most likely the tensioner arm and the front cover gasket could be causing an issue creating a wedge.

All I want to know, and ive looked, is if the 1g 7 bolt timing belt tensioner arm is the same as the 2g timing belt tensioner arm.

I had a timing belt shred in 3 pieces only going about 40 in a school zone, replaced the trigger plate which I seen was bent either because of the timing belt shredding or just got worse (was about 1/8inch into the timing belt) so I want to get the timing belt sat properly and just want to know if they are interchangeable. I tried looking on not only the forums but elsewhere on the internet and just cant find an answer.

I just dont want to waste the money on something that isnt going to work.
 

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
9,698
5,537
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
One of the part out companies list's the tensioner arms as either 6 bolt or 7 bolt, as you can see here -
It is listed in the 1g engine section and the same part in the 2g engine section.
Marty
 

Cherry

Proven Member
277
60
Jun 16, 2019
Hull, Georgia
Looks like there is conflicting information out there. Because what is listed as 2g on sites like extremepsi and stmtuned looks like what is said to be a 1g tensioner arm.

Also all the years I have found listed 1990-1992.5 and 1995-1999. The 1992.5-1994 are missing from my search results at least.




At this point I have no clue what to do. I definitely dont want to shred another belt.
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The sides didnt show any type of damage like something was chewing on it, the belt breaking could have bent the backing plate or trigger plate (ive seen both terms used) which I replaced.

I just dont know if the belt just went because it was a an enginetech belt which looks cheaper than the cheapest dirt you can find (i have a gates belt on it now) or if the arm could have caused it.

If I cant get a 1g 7bolt tensioner arm I dont know what I will do. The only thing I could do is buy it and hope its actually the one I need, and if not just say that the product doesnt match the picture.
 

Cherry

Proven Member
277
60
Jun 16, 2019
Hull, Georgia
I wonder if somebody has already worked out how to replace the bushings in the pivot of this thing.
That would probably get yours back on the road, wouldn't it?
Probably have to pry the original ones out and then press in new ones. New bushings are I think 75 dollars and only one person makes them from what I seen.
 

19Eclipse90

DSM Wiseman
5,281
1,146
Sep 29, 2003
OKC, Oklahoma
Sometimes sellers use generic pictures or use them in the wrong places. I’m seeing posts here dating back to the mid 2000s that the 1G uses one arm and the 2G uses a different arm. Some of my own, included, when I had more time to open up the laptop, get into Mitsubishi ASA and verify. There’s no doubt in my mind that information is correct.

But you can do with it what you will.
 

Cherry

Proven Member
277
60
Jun 16, 2019
Hull, Georgia
Then there really isnt anything people can do anymore to straighten their timing belts if you have a 1g engine. Aside from overpriced bushings that the guy isnt going to be making anymore of and you have to oil annually because its made from oilite.

Guess ill just have to fork out 75+ dollars. I would definitely get the measurements for them though before I put them in.

Thanks for the info. At least I have a bike to use in the meantime.
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
If I cant get a 1g 7bolt tensioner arm I dont know what I will do. The only thing I could do is buy it and hope its actually the one I need, and if not just say that the product doesnt match the picture.
All 1G 6 bolt/7 bolt 4g63 (Turbo and Non turbo) have the same tensioner arm.

Are you sure that the timing belt had the proper tension? And nothing was contacting with the timing belt? Such as the hood, oil pan bolts etc etc. And nothing was loose? Such as the engine mount bracket, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, cam gears? Can you upload some pics of the engine?
 

Cherry

Proven Member
277
60
Jun 16, 2019
Hull, Georgia
All 1G 6 bolt/7 bolt 4g63 (Turbo and Non turbo) have the same tensioner arm.

Are you sure that the timing belt had the proper tension? And nothing was contacting with the timing belt? Such as the hood, oil pan bolts etc etc. And nothing was loose? Such as the engine mount bracket, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, cam gears? Can you upload some pics of the engine?
No long oil pan bolts rubbing and there is no grooving of the belt, everything has been torqued and double checked. Didnt check for the front plate gasket being underneath the engine mount bracket. Idler pully not loose and turns freely torqued as well, new tensioner, new backing plate, crank shaft bolt torqued.

Followed the vfaq of installing the timing belt and have the tool kit.

The only thing that is left is the arm which has been discontinued. So its oilite bushings for the arm or take my chances which I dont want to do. 75 dollars is infinitely more affordable than the inflation of cars, especially used cars.

The engine is back together at the moment and in the car since I did everything in the car which is a pain but doable.
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
No long oil pan bolts rubbing and there is no grooving of the belt, everything has been torqued and double checked. Didnt check for the front plate gasket being underneath the engine mount bracket. Idler pully not loose and turns freely torqued as well, new tensioner, new backing plate, crank shaft bolt torqued.

Followed the vfaq of installing the timing belt and have the tool kit.

The only thing that is left is the arm which has been discontinued. So its oilite bushings for the arm or take my chances which I dont want to do. 75 dollars is infinitely more affordable than the inflation of cars, especially used cars.

The engine is back together at the moment and in the car since I did everything in the car which is a pain but doable.
How much worn the tensioner arm ? Can you upload some pics please? Also a pic of under the valve cover to see the camshafts position.
Maybe the worn tensioner arm is not the only cause.
 

Cherry

Proven Member
277
60
Jun 16, 2019
Hull, Georgia
How much worn the tensioner arm ? Can you upload some pics please? Also a pic of under the valve cover to see the camshafts position.
Maybe the worn tensioner arm is not the only cause.
Ill have to get those on sunday. But the belt isnt centered on the cam gears and so far I have seen 2 reasons for this, tensioner arm being worn, and front plate gasket being underneath the motor mount bracket and that takes just the trimming of the gasket to fix that. Could be a combination of both of those.

Those enginetech timing belts are cheap and ill never use another one. Came in an engine rebuild kit, and that was half wrong. I have a feeling it was just a really cheap belt.
 

Chad Noles

Probationary Member
15
4
Mar 15, 2022
Linville, North_Carolina
I don't mean to be a jerk but can you once again verify this is true....
All 1G 6 bolt/7 bolt 4g63 (Turbo and Non turbo) have the same tensioner arm.
I really need to buy one as mine is Fubared.
 

19Eclipse90

DSM Wiseman
5,281
1,146
Sep 29, 2003
OKC, Oklahoma
Because the Production Period is not specified and because selecting PNC 03148 in the program requires no further specification for model, type, or year, the same tensioner arm MD130032 is used on the models shown.

Model D22A includes all 1G FWD 4G63 models.
Model D27A includes all 1G AWD models.

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Chad Noles

Probationary Member
15
4
Mar 15, 2022
Linville, North_Carolina
Ok, it looks like I would need the D22A. In a wow moment, I found a tensioner arm stuffed down in an old parts box I was about to get rid of. I'll never throw out any DSM parts again!!

On another note, since my tensioner pin is fully extended, how many days should it take to crank it back in using a vice. I've heard about 1/2 mm per day, or 1/4 of a turn of the vice handle?
 

Chad Noles

Probationary Member
15
4
Mar 15, 2022
Linville, North_Carolina
To be honest,if the pin is completely extended it should take about 24 hrs to crank it back in to the hole lines up with the outside case where you insert the (allen wrench,geranade pin,needle,etc.) AFAIK
 

steve

DSM Wiseman
14,880
1,725
Feb 3, 2002
Boulder, Colorado
Where are you guys getting this info? It's a simple hydraulic mechanism. It isn't that sensitive.
Not sure who "you guys" is but the FSM says little by little when it comes to compressing in a vice. I consider that as slowly but not 1/2 mm per day which is crazy.

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I've slipped and let the rod extend while it was on the engine, I just compressed it back by twisting the tensioner pulley until I could put the pin back in and while holding that pressure tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. It doesn't take much force to compress it but you don't want to compress it too quickly or risk damaging it.
 

pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
8,309
2,853
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Not sure who "you guys" is but the FSM says little by little when it come to compressing in a vice. I consider that slowly but not 1/2 mm per day which is crazy.

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I've slipped and let the rod extend while it was on the engine, I just compressed it back by twisting the tensioner pulley until I could put the pin back in and while holding that pressure tighten the tensioner pulley bolt. It doesn't take much force to compress it but you don't want to compress it too quickly.
Sorry Steve. I didn't mean you. I almost posted that page. Glad you did. I have also done it on the engine as you mentioned. This just isn't a big deal folks. Guaranteed I've compressed at least 25 tensioners over the years.
 

Chad Noles

Probationary Member
15
4
Mar 15, 2022
Linville, North_Carolina
Ok guys.Some smart guy at a garage said go really slow on the pin.I guess I have it by next week at the soonest.Thank for the help.
 

DSSA

Supporting Vendor
645
463
Jul 26, 2002
Hatfield, Pennsylvania
Ok guys.Some smart guy at a garage said go really slow on the pin.I guess I have it by next week at the soonest.Thank for the help.
It can be done in a minute or two.

Put in vice. Turn vice handle to compress SLOWLY, putting light pressure on the handle, noting how much pressure you had to apply to get it to move (thereby compressing the pin). Keep that light/constant pressure on the vice handle. You'll feel the vice handle start to move again (while keeping that light pressure on it) as the fluid bleeds back through the return point (thereby lessening the pressure behind the shaft (pin)).

The physics of it---the return port under the pin is VERY small. As you compress it (turn vice in) pressure will build up under the pin as the return port is tiny as mentioned above. After a bit, the pressure will lower as more fluid is able to be released...pressure will then lower, allowing you to again turn the vice a little bit more at the same LIGHT pressure on the handle. You'll actually be able to feel it release if you're putting constant (AGAIN--LIGHT) pressure on the vice handle.

All vices will be different, but with the one I've used hundreds of times to do this, I'll put one or two fingers on the handle and just push it hard enough to get the pin to compress a little bit. Then I'll keep that same pressure on the handle. You'll feel it start to move again when the pressure under the pin lowers.

If I'm starting with the vice handle at 12 & 6 o'clock with this light pressure on it, it will move to 1-2...sit there for about 5 seconds...then move to 3....sit there for about 5 seconds...then to 4-5....repeat until the holes line up and install the pin. I would say over about a span of 30-45 seconds, but for your first time, until you get a feel for it, let it take longer so you don't snap the pin getting impatient
 
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