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Resolved 1G 6 bolt timing belt tensioner oil leak

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all black 4G63

Proven Member
254
43
Aug 5, 2019
Chicago, Illinois
Does anyone have a final remedy to address the oil leak from the lower timing belt tensioner bolt on a 6 bolt? (photo attached)

I have read post, but wanted to get a fresh suggestion as most post are from early 2000's

I have used 3 bond on the bolt, but obviously it still leaks.

Also is there any other areas for potential oil leaks behind the timing belt cover that I should be aware of?

Thank you for the support

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Solution
UPDATE!

Well the f***ing leak is gone. I replaced the seal and sprocket and drove the car hard... there's no oil on the belt anymore and the rest of the timing pulleys are dry.
What's funny is my POS Jayracing ALT relocation bracket (Bottom) finally cracked during the drive so I couldn't go too far, but everything looks OK for now...

"We're on Boost" What I think the lip on the replacement pulley is for is for when you slide the pulley on, the lip on the edge allows the seal to be wrapped around the surface without folding possibly>?

Why all of this occurred. Well.....It may be possible that the original front case/oil pump assembly went through a rough beginning....What I mean is that I think I may have over tighten the timing...
The pistons never hit the valves on this motor..
I understand what you’re are saying about the worn out drive gear shaft and case bore, but the case is brand new with 150miles in it and I ensures the belt was not overtightened. However, there is one more thing I forgot to mention because I thought it was irrelevant.
What I am telling you is possibilities by following what you described and answering your questions. New sometimes doesn't guaranty anything, so if you can't find the issue yet, you really should inspect one by one.

The alternator is relocated using the BS Jay Racing relaxation kit. I say BS because the tension rod is weak and almost over extends to the point where the rod runs out of thread…
Well I am not so sure what exactly the issue is but shorten the rod by using a shorter belt wouldn't solve that?

well the rod that bolts to the “joints” on the kit are worn and my alternator produces a nasty vibration @ 2500 RPM that teleports throughout the entire motor.
The kit itself is simple. You can repair the threads or replace the ball joint rod end/bolts if it's necessary. Or maybe you have the bracket broken if the kit is the aluminum version? If so, get a steel version.

Could this be destroying my oil pump and causing this leak you think?
I don't think it's related.
 
Thanks,
I received the oil pump sprocket in the mail today I will get it on and update. \
Anyone have any tricks to how I am supposed to tighten the sprocket with the case on the block?
 
Thanks,
I received the oil pump sprocket in the mail today I will get it on and update. \
Anyone have any tricks to how I am supposed to tighten the sprocket with the case on the block?
I recommend tightening it the same way I recommended loosening it.... wrap a junk timing belt around the sprocket and hold it with a large set of pliers, then torque to spec with loctite.
 
The relocation kit only has pressure on the harmonic balancer so check the bolt on the front of it for being TIGHT.
I run ACL front pumps and I'm sure they have helical gears but I haven't had a problem with it with the stock location alternator and rip it over 9k.
 
The relocation kit only has pressure on the harmonic balancer so check the bolt on the front of it for being TIGHT.
I run ACL front pumps and I'm sure they have helical gears but I haven't had a problem with it with the stock location alternator and rip it over 9k.
The crank sprocket bolt?
 
I run ACL front pumps and I'm sure they have helical gears but I haven't had a problem with it with the stock location alternator and rip it over 9k.

Thanks for that input. I noticed that DSMPT said something similar in a thread back in February and he also said "All the helical drive/driven gears are the same between 1G, 2G and EVO1-9. So it would be easier to find."
Well man if that's true then parts availability should be ok for a while yet I would think? Always worried about future parts you know haha!
That was in post #58 here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/oil-pressure-90-filter-housing-issue.528998/page-3#post-153793542
 
I don't have 50000 miles on my 4g motors, so time will tell about the ACL pumps but I have not had a bad experience with them so far. I just run the motors pretty hard, so that in itself will be what may make one give me issues, not high mileage.
 
OK I think I found the leak for sure this time. I just have a couple of questions before I rush into reassembly,

Well it looks like the sprocket was the issue after all (photos attached).

The UV light and oil dye have confirmed this. However, being that the seal is brand new with "150 miles on it" and the fact that the last oil pump shaft seal was also new with the same leak it's probably safe to say that the seal is not the issue?

I am only approaching this from a logical standpoint because if two new front cases with 2 new Mitsu pressed in oil pump seals but reusing the same 30 year old pump sprocket leaks then it probably the sprocket and there's no need to replace the seal because I really don't want to.

From the photos I noticed that the original sprocket does not have a lip like the brand new Mitsu one I just ordered. Anyone know what Im talking about? is this a supersedence part?

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Honestly looking closer at the pump seal it looks to be corked...

Please take a look at the photos, I have a picture of two font cases, one with the oil seal pressed all the way in until it is bottomed out. The other photo is the seal that is currently on my car which seems crooked (photo with CV Axle in background).

IS THE SEAL SUPPOSED TO PRESSED IN UNTIL IT BOTTOMS OUT OR IS SUPPOSED TO BE FLUSH??? Which picture is correct???

thank you!

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the fact that the last oil pump shaft seal was also new with the same leak it's probably safe to say that the seal is not the issue?

I am only approaching this from a logical standpoint because if two new front cases with 2 new Mitsu pressed in oil pump seals but reusing the same 30 year old pump sprocket leaks then it probably the sprocket and there's no need to replace the seal because I really don't want to.
I have told you twice that NEW doesn't guarantee anything. Please do not guess, inspect it physically. That's the only way that you can be sure.

Please check if the drive gear shaft has abnormal in-out and Up-down-left-right play. If it has much play, the gears or/and the front case may be out of spec. And also inspect the back side of seal, there is a small spring that is supposed to be siting in the seal lip. Make sure if the spring is still in its place. That spring sometimes pops off easily. That spring is the one giving pressure to lip of seal and making a good sealing, it would leak without it.
 
In post #113, the sprockets shown in img 0080 and img 0082, the one in 0082 looks like it has more of a groove where the seal lip runs. The one in 0080 has less of a groove there, maybe none. It seems like a big difference. Is 0080 the "original sprocket" and 0082 the "new Mitsu" one?
If the difference in that seal lip area is as different as it looks to me, I can't imagine that they would function the same.
 
UPDATE!

Well the f***ing leak is gone. I replaced the seal and sprocket and drove the car hard... there's no oil on the belt anymore and the rest of the timing pulleys are dry.
What's funny is my POS Jayracing ALT relocation bracket (Bottom) finally cracked during the drive so I couldn't go too far, but everything looks OK for now...

"We're on Boost" What I think the lip on the replacement pulley is for is for when you slide the pulley on, the lip on the edge allows the seal to be wrapped around the surface without folding possibly>?

Why all of this occurred. Well.....It may be possible that the original front case/oil pump assembly went through a rough beginning....What I mean is that I think I may have over tighten the timing belt on the original front case set-up which caused the oil pump to severely damage. It was so f***ed that I had to beat the drive gear shaft out with a hammer. This may have caused the oil pump sprocket to ride crooked due to the fact the drive gear shaft and inner case bore was completely f***ed. While riding like this it wore out the machined area of the sprocket the seal rides on and cocked the seal????

Another theory is that the Mitsu parts that are ordered from STM have there seals pressed in like shit being that the oil pump seal was f***ing crooked. however, I doubt it..

Lesson learned.....when you're about to lose your f***ing mind like I was just take a step back and slow down..In the end it's just a 30 year old Mitsubishi.

I want to say thank you to all the people on this 120 post thread!!! for taking the time to help me through this nightmare, if it wasn't for the support hear on this forum I probably would've never found the leak or possibly given up. It amazing the support we have for each other that own these freaking cars (DSMs) I guess we all know the struggle, because the struggle is real!!!

If any of you are ever in freezing ass Chicago and are at a DSM meet and see the black 90 TSI I have, well my friends call me Tony and drinks are on me!!

Till the next nightmare thread.....
Anthony
 
Solution
"All the helical drive/driven gears are the same between 1G, 2G and EVO1-9. So it would be easier to find." Well man if that's true
@We're on Boost Yes it's true.

Lesson learned.....when you're about to lose your f***ing mind like I was just take a step back and slow down..In the end it's just a 30 year old Mitsubishi.
This is the most valuable thing you found from this issue and that is what we always want to tell at the beginning. I'm glad it's solved.
 
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I am currently in "step back" mode myself Tony so I am super happy that you have solved the puzzle! My problems and yours differ tremendously but I can certainly understand the frustration.....until you FIXED IT. Then the joy of it all kinda helps!
Good job man!
 
Although it looks like you resolved this issue, one thought that came to mind is that when I replaced this seal on my DSM a week or so ago, I wasn't as careful as I should have been when I removed the old seal and scored the bore a little with a pick. When I installed the new seal I tried to position it so it would cover as much of the nick as possible, but until I run the car a while and check for leaks, I won't know if I created a leak situation. I'll probably remove the lower TB cover at some point to check on this and the tensioner gap and timing marks. But this could have at least in part have been the problem. Or not. Just throwing out some additional things to think about.
 
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