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1G 4G63T, how to remove alternator?

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PointMan

Probationary Member
7
0
Jan 5, 2006
Malmo, Sweden, Europe
Hi.

Need to change the alternator on my 1G Talon, it looks to be a PITA to get it out.

Talked to a mechanic at Mitsubishi, he said that I might need to remove the radiator... which I'm not willing to do, not by myself. :mad:

What's the easiest way to get it out?
 
Remove the fan shroud over there by the alternator and remove the power steering pump from it's bracketing. Move the PS pump off to the side and wiggle the alternator out without busting up your radiator.
 
Remove the fan shroud over there by the alternator and remove the power steering pump from it's bracketing. Move the PS pump off to the side and wiggle the alternator out without busting up your radiator.

Are you sure that the shroud on the fan is removable? Hmm... :confused:
 
I have never had to remove the fan shroud when i was taking the alternator out. Dont forget to disconnect your battery.
 
Yes, the whole fan comes off, two bolts up top, one bolt down below and a connector plug on the right.
 
Shroud and fan are 1 unt, remove it. You can leave p.s. in the car. Alternator will fit out. Don't remove the adjuster bracket that is bolted to the engine block, 1 of the bolts on that adjuster bracket goes through water pump and could cause a coolant leak if removed, if you have to just bend the adjuster bracket out of the way a little bit.
 
I have never had to remove the fan shroud when i was taking the alternator out. Dont forget to disconnect your battery.


Are you talking on the Mirage or an AWD 1G?

The AWD 1G alternator cannot be dropped down and you have to take off the dang fan and power steering pump to get the alternator out.
 
Power steering pump does not have to come out. I just changed my alternator last week and I kept the power steering pump in, took me 45 mins to swap it out. All I removed was the fan and I have a fluidyne so my radiator is a bit thicker then a factory one and still had plenty of room.
 
Power steering pump does not have to come out. I just changed my alternator last week and I kept the power steering pump in, took me 45 mins to swap it out. All I removed was the fan and I have a fluidyne so my radiator is a bit thicker then a factory one and still had plenty of room.

Is your car AWD or FWD? With the FWD it can drop down, but with the AWD it has to come up as there is cross member below the alternator. It does not fit coming up without moving the power steering.
 
My car is awd, pulled alternator through the top with p.s. pump still in and bolted tight, this is my 3rd 1g awd and I have pulled the alternator the same way on all of them.
 
Well nuts, maybe I got one of them crazy factory freaks...

Hey PointMan, did your alternator pull UP past the PS without having to move it?

I will certainly admit that I may be wrong or doing something the wrong way. But with the last four AWD 1G's I have turned wrenches on, I was either not smart enough or industrious enough to get the alternator past the PS pump without having to move it. Next time I have to pull an alternator I will definitely be attempting to figure it out.
 
When I pull the alt I break it loose from the mounting bracket then pull the tail of it out first on an angle towards the backside of the p.s. pump, there's just engough room to twist it out of there.
 
The recipe:
1. Removed the battery.
2. Unplugged and removed the (A/C?) fan.
3. Unplugged the alternator
4. Removed the upper mounting bolt where you tension the belt.
5. Removed a nut to some sort of sensor, removed the sensor cable.
6. Removed the nut from the lower mounting bolt.
7. Pushed the mounting bolt to get it out.
8. Said some things I can't write on this forum :mad: :D
9. Jacked the car up and removed the wheel.
10. Removed the two splash guards.
11. Removed the lower mounting bolt.
12. Pulled like crazy on the alternator WTF
13. After some pulling, removed the alternator. :thumb:

The biiaatch is out! Now I just need the new one. :p

Thanks for all the help guys!!
 
If you did'nt get an alternator yet you may want to consider getting a galant alternator as they are 90 amp vs a factory 1g 75 amp, they bolt right in and all you have to change is remove the factory 80 amp fuse and replace with a 100 amp fuse.
 
If you did'nt get an alternator yet you may want to consider getting a galant alternator as they are 90 amp vs a factory 1g 75 amp, they bolt right in and all you have to change is remove the factory 80 amp fuse and replace with a 100 amp fuse.

Hi. I will replace it with a 90 amp alternator, mostly because all Euro DSM's uses 90A alternators from the factory, not going to buy a new alternator. My friend has a spare one from a Euro Eclipse.

Which fuse is it, where is it located?
 
It is in that box near the battery with all the fuses and relays in it. The cover is labeled and should have alternator 80 amp fuse closest to front driver side of cover. The fuse is bolted in so don't try to just pull it out. Interesting to know that the euro dsm's came factory 90 amp, I never knew that.
 
It is in that box near the battery with all the fuses and relays in it. The cover is labeled and should have alternator 80 amp fuse closest to front driver side of cover. The fuse is bolted in so don't try to just pull it out. Interesting to know that the euro dsm's came factory 90 amp, I never knew that.

ROFL i ripped my 80 amp fuse to pieces because i thought it had welded itself.
 
Pull the drivers side fan, and power steering pump (if so equipped). The alternator is still a PITA, but not as bad with those out of the way.

On a sidenote, pulling the fan makes any turbo related work, 100% easier.

Edit: Yeah, just noticed this thread is five years old.
 
I just ripped my alternator out in about 20 minutes. Here is my technique, take out drivers fan (3 m10 bolts) then loosen and remove tensoner, leave the bracket, remove pivot bolt from bottom of alt, then rotate the alternator counter clockwise and lift up, bend the dip stick tube for clearance and bam your done. Worked pretty slick, and i did it in the parking lot of fred meyers!
 
Since I'm FWD, I take out the AC fan to get the upper end all loosened, but still have to crawl under for the pinch bolt since the oil filter is right below the nut.

Little hint: You do the higher amp alternator and replace the fuse with a higher rating, you'll be more prone for engine fires since the wire gauge to feed and run the system was installed for use with the 75 amp setup.

You drive more current through wire not designed for the higher current, you'll get some major resistance issues where the results is wires getting a bit hot.

And copper, when heated, will begin to corrode and eventually decay.

Like home electricity: On a 20 amp circuit, you have 12 gauge solid copper to run that circuit. Now, you yank out that 20 amp breaker and shove in a 30 amp breaker and attach higher amp drawing devices to those outlets, you better plan on your house to burn down eventually due to wire getting massive hot and decaying due to resistance.

DSM
 
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