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1G 1g 4g63 no spark #2 #3

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240man91

10+ Year Contributor
35
0
May 9, 2011
monett, Missouri
To start out, its a 92 Eclipse GS 4g63. I have lost spark on #2 an #3. Things I have done are; checked the spark plugs wires, coil packs, and I changed the PTU with one off a running car. And the ECU has been changed out too.

Anyone have any ideas? thanks for any info.
 
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Well, I see your not an English major but, there's hope for your car at least....that's the good news. So you have lost spark to #2 and #3 at the same time...so you checked the coil you stated? So explain the way you checked the parts? Did you checked the primary coil resistance and was it close to .77 to .95 ohms? What was the measurement of the secondary coil resistance, was it 10.3K to 13.9K Ohms? Did you run an "continuity" check on all your spark plug wires? If your other plugs 1 and 4 are firing you can rule out CAS, ECU or bad ground because all 4 cylinders will be "dead".... you got 2 "live" cylinders and "2" dead cylinders...It is going to be one of those 2 things I listed above you need to re-check to go any further. Coil check/swap, wire check/swap before you go any further. There are more components in the "ignition" system but these are easiest to check to begin with.
 
i changed out the coils with kown working ones. I have bee reading stuff about the crank sensor might be bad, but i thought that when that goes bad you would loose spark to all cylinders. Right?
 
Correct, your camshaft angle sensor if defective (CAS) would not let's say"not" send coil pack signal to send spark down the wire. It could be plausible scenario though. If transistor (ignition control module) is faulty a non plausible signal may occur too so that's a check if were stumped to look at shortly soon if you know for a fact you have known "good" parts your working with. How do you know if your used part is good or not? If you have no way to verify good/bad then how can you state something is good without first knowing its condition. So you know that system is working...so you have too trace back and ask...where is that "spark" come from that is missing????? We know the spark on #1 and #4 is there. On cylinders #2 and #3 where is the spark? The CAS is working because it is letting spark get sent via coils to plugs on #1 and #4 correct?

So we have to investigate the cause you see? If we see no spark what so ever then yes look toward the CAS.. and let me correct a term you used in your post "about the crank sensor might be bad,". 4G63 engines uses camshaft angle sensor..there is no crankshaft angle sensor in your car unless it is a 2G (420) but yours is a 1G so you will have (CAS) "Camshaft Angle Sensor" ..a 2G will have a "Crankshaft Angle Sensor" also known as a (CAS) so watch term you use because it can be confusing and the testing of both them have different methods.

A mechanic replaces parts until the car is fixed. That costs you money and down time waiting for parts.... A technician only replaces those parts that needs to be replaced, and your back on the road in a few days or less. And, your bill is allot lower. Don't play mechanic and throw used parts at something hoping for a quick fix. If it was that easy I would be out of a job.....
 
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Ok. An yes all the parts cam off a running motor i seen the motor run befor i got the parts. An i didnt think there was one for the crank cause i couldnt see one. But how hard is the cas to change? It looks kinda like a disturbitor, can it be pulled out an a new one be put back in with out reseting the timeing? An how do i go about testing the one i have now? I have a ohm reader
 
Try this since you do not have a wiring diagram or manual that shows you how to check various components. if you have another "power transistor" swap it out and see if #2 and #3 go back to firing. Since all you have is parts around, guess you will have to make due with what you have, or can get access too. This is doing things the hard way because it wastes time trying to find/solve the cause of your problem.

If you never pulled the "CAS" out then I would not mess with it, yes, you can adjust it out of alignment and change the timing..but, the ecu controls the timing so I never mess with it other than to replace the o-ring seal around it. I always make note where it is pointing at and return it to the same position when I go to re-install it..

As far as a "check" for CAS, I have looked thru the factory service manuals I have ( I use the factory original books) and they do not even show how to check it, they just show a "schematic" diagram of how that parts integrates into the "ignition" circuitry, Unless you know how to read an wiring diagram you are s.o.l on that check.
 
I do know how to read wiring diagram. Just dont have a book yet i am at work till tuesday i work in ok live in mo. I work on a oil rig so i dontbhave alot of time to mess with it but will be fixing it on my own. An i am not new to cars just the dsm. This was my friends car it ean till a week ago an he couldnt get it to run so bought it for 300. So i got a steal, as the car is in great shape besides not firing on two an three. If the cas gets turned would that make it lose spark? I am not sure what all he did, he replaced the above parts i just changed the pt be cause i had a 97 gst spider that 1&4 went out an i changed the pt out, an i got both cyldiners back. An on the crank there is a flat plat with a notch in it is that the timeing make for the crank? An is it post to line slightly to the right (if looking through the wheel well) with that point? Cause that where mine lines up then the cam gears are lined up. I know how to line up the cam gears to i found info on that just not the crank. I tank all you guys for the help. I have been looking to restor a 1g dsm to go with my 425whp 92 240sx kat turbo. The dsm an 240sx are fun to out run civics in. Haha
 
When you get the time, the housing is almost like a distributor would have...a mark on the case housing of the CAS and cylinder head has a mark that the CAS housing has to align with a point of reference. I would think though you rotate the CAS 180 you will have spark on #2 and #3 and will not have spark on #1 and #4..If that is what you find out when that happens you can then for sure rule out that the CAS is faulty...Start looking elsewhere for the problem..
 
Ok i will do that when i get home. But am i right about the mark for the timing on the crank an when the timing marks all line up will the marks on the cas line up to
 
No motor is great. Timing is right it has just lost spark to cylinder 2 an 3. An commpress hits 155 on all cylinders, i am going to check the cas like the above post says to when i get home that sounds like the best next step to take. An as for the tps, i dont know if that could make you lose spark. I have had cars with bad tps befor an they still ran, but like crap. But dsm might be diffrent if anyone knows feel free to chime in on that.
 
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