Turbo Swap How-To
Parts/Supply List;
- 1/4" and 3/8" drive Ratchet
- 10mm Socket
- 12mm Socket
- 14mm Socket
- 17mm Socket
- 7/8 Socket
- 12mm Wrench
- 14mm Wrench
- Vice Grips
- Needle Nose Plyers (regular plyers will work)
- Bottle of Coolant
- About a quart of oil, unless you plan on changing the oil while you do this.
- Exhaust Manifold Gasket (Possibly, see step 5.)
_________________________________________________________________________
There are multiple reasons for turbo swaps on 1G DSM's. You could be adding a bigger turbo looking for that extra boost of HP, or you could be replacing a blown turbo or even taking one off and rebuilding it, then putting it back on.In my case, I blew two turbo's do to some metal shavings in the oil and a bad turbo-housing. So hopefully, this might help you out some.
1. First things first, you need to unhook your coolant line that runs to your turbo. This is where your needle nose plyers come in. Just pinch the clamp with the plyers and slide it back and pull the line off. Simple, right?
2. Once that's done, go ahead and unhook your o2 sensor. Just trace the wires from the o2 housing and find where it plugs in at and unhook it. It's easier than taking the entire sensor out, trust me.
3. There are three or four main bolts that are going to need to come out next.
3a.) The first bolt, is located right below your valve cover on the front left side. This bolt is 17mm. Be careful taking this out, it's one bolt you do not want to strip.
3b.) The second bolt is on the front the turbo. I took this bolt out with a 7/8" socket. Be careful, these lines can get twisted and broken pretty easily.
3c.) The third and fourth bolts that need taken out are under the car. Follow the oil return line to where it ends, and there will be two small 10mm bolts that need taken out. This is where my 1/4" ratchet came in handy. Not all of us can afford a nice lift, so working under the car and trying to use a 3/8" ratchet just wasn't working. But a 10mm and a 1/4" drive ratchet will get it off in no time.
4.) Almost there. Next the two nuts that hold the downpipe to the o2 housing studs. These will have to come off. Watch, because once these come off your downpipe is free to smack you in the face.
5.) Now there are only two things holding the turbo in place; The 3 bolts and stud going through the manifold, and the bolts from the compressor outlet on the turbo.
5a.) The bolts on the compressor outlet are 12mm, and are extremely easy to take out. Take them out, and get it out of the way. I took the entire LICP off just to free up some more space.
5b.) Last but not least, your bolts and stud need to come out of the turbo housing. All of these are 14mm. Take the nut in the back right off first. Then take your vicegrips, and try to remove the stud from the turbo. If the stud comes out, then skip the next steps and go straight to step 5c.
- If your stud from the turbo to the manifold wouldn't come out. You managed to get yourself a little bit more work, and cost yourself a little bit more money. Not much though, so don't worry. You just need to buy yourself an exhaust manifold gasket. This can be done another way, but I've found that this saves you a lot more time, for just a few extra dollars.
- Take a 12mm ratchet and wrench, and take off your exhaust manifold. Depending on the year, you may need a 14mm for the two bolts in the bottom corners. Also, you may have to remove the guard shield for the power steering pump.
- Once everything is loose, pull the manifold out until you can slide it off the turbo, which also should be free.
5c.) From here, your turbo should be free. Your lines may catch on the way out, so be sure not to force anything.
From there on out, you should be able to pull the turbo out of the car.
6.) When it comes to reinstalling the new turbo, make sure all of your lines are on the turbo and bolted down tightly. Put the new gasket onto the manifold studs, and then put the manifold and turbo back on the car, and secure the turbo to the manifold so you have support. From there, just work backwords until the turbo is completely back on the car.
6a.) During the whole process, you probably lost about a quart of oil unless you decided to drain your oil in the process. So go ahead and add your quart of oil if you haven't already, permitting that everything is already hooked up.
6b.) When you finish adding your oil, go ahead and start filling back up with coolant. I tend to go a little bit at a time, and check for any obvious external coolant leaks as I go.
**EDIT** ... Credit to Dream On; Most people you talk to will prime the turbo before they start the car.
Once everythings tightened down, you should be finished. After the two turbo swaps that I've done, I have started the car up and let it idle for around 5 to 10 minutes, just to be safe. Hope this was helpful. Let me know if there's something I've left out.
Parts/Supply List;
- 1/4" and 3/8" drive Ratchet
- 10mm Socket
- 12mm Socket
- 14mm Socket
- 17mm Socket
- 7/8 Socket
- 12mm Wrench
- 14mm Wrench
- Vice Grips
- Needle Nose Plyers (regular plyers will work)
- Bottle of Coolant
- About a quart of oil, unless you plan on changing the oil while you do this.
- Exhaust Manifold Gasket (Possibly, see step 5.)
_________________________________________________________________________
There are multiple reasons for turbo swaps on 1G DSM's. You could be adding a bigger turbo looking for that extra boost of HP, or you could be replacing a blown turbo or even taking one off and rebuilding it, then putting it back on.In my case, I blew two turbo's do to some metal shavings in the oil and a bad turbo-housing. So hopefully, this might help you out some.
1. First things first, you need to unhook your coolant line that runs to your turbo. This is where your needle nose plyers come in. Just pinch the clamp with the plyers and slide it back and pull the line off. Simple, right?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
2. Once that's done, go ahead and unhook your o2 sensor. Just trace the wires from the o2 housing and find where it plugs in at and unhook it. It's easier than taking the entire sensor out, trust me.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
3. There are three or four main bolts that are going to need to come out next.
3a.) The first bolt, is located right below your valve cover on the front left side. This bolt is 17mm. Be careful taking this out, it's one bolt you do not want to strip.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
3b.) The second bolt is on the front the turbo. I took this bolt out with a 7/8" socket. Be careful, these lines can get twisted and broken pretty easily.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
3c.) The third and fourth bolts that need taken out are under the car. Follow the oil return line to where it ends, and there will be two small 10mm bolts that need taken out. This is where my 1/4" ratchet came in handy. Not all of us can afford a nice lift, so working under the car and trying to use a 3/8" ratchet just wasn't working. But a 10mm and a 1/4" drive ratchet will get it off in no time.
4.) Almost there. Next the two nuts that hold the downpipe to the o2 housing studs. These will have to come off. Watch, because once these come off your downpipe is free to smack you in the face.
5.) Now there are only two things holding the turbo in place; The 3 bolts and stud going through the manifold, and the bolts from the compressor outlet on the turbo.
5a.) The bolts on the compressor outlet are 12mm, and are extremely easy to take out. Take them out, and get it out of the way. I took the entire LICP off just to free up some more space.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
5b.) Last but not least, your bolts and stud need to come out of the turbo housing. All of these are 14mm. Take the nut in the back right off first. Then take your vicegrips, and try to remove the stud from the turbo. If the stud comes out, then skip the next steps and go straight to step 5c.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
- If your stud from the turbo to the manifold wouldn't come out. You managed to get yourself a little bit more work, and cost yourself a little bit more money. Not much though, so don't worry. You just need to buy yourself an exhaust manifold gasket. This can be done another way, but I've found that this saves you a lot more time, for just a few extra dollars.
- Take a 12mm ratchet and wrench, and take off your exhaust manifold. Depending on the year, you may need a 14mm for the two bolts in the bottom corners. Also, you may have to remove the guard shield for the power steering pump.
- Once everything is loose, pull the manifold out until you can slide it off the turbo, which also should be free.
5c.) From here, your turbo should be free. Your lines may catch on the way out, so be sure not to force anything.
From there on out, you should be able to pull the turbo out of the car.
6.) When it comes to reinstalling the new turbo, make sure all of your lines are on the turbo and bolted down tightly. Put the new gasket onto the manifold studs, and then put the manifold and turbo back on the car, and secure the turbo to the manifold so you have support. From there, just work backwords until the turbo is completely back on the car.
6a.) During the whole process, you probably lost about a quart of oil unless you decided to drain your oil in the process. So go ahead and add your quart of oil if you haven't already, permitting that everything is already hooked up.
6b.) When you finish adding your oil, go ahead and start filling back up with coolant. I tend to go a little bit at a time, and check for any obvious external coolant leaks as I go.
**EDIT** ... Credit to Dream On; Most people you talk to will prime the turbo before they start the car.
Once everythings tightened down, you should be finished. After the two turbo swaps that I've done, I have started the car up and let it idle for around 5 to 10 minutes, just to be safe. Hope this was helpful. Let me know if there's something I've left out.
