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1998 gst eclipse

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New 2G street project


Before starting, just want to say that i'm french canadian so my english is not perfect on verb and on expression that we have that might be different that some elsewhere.


So i bought an 1998 Eclipse GST that was already built but it's still a project as it need parts, love and i want to put it to my taste.

The car was sold to me as not drivable but working. The guy i bought it from is not a mechanic so didn't know much but here what he thought was broken. I will update as i found trouble and correct them.

1: The car needed a battery which is not hard to fix and was relocated in the back of the car.

2: Need a new clutch but look like there noise from the clutch not disengaging completely when starting the engine

3: Shifting cable as it's wobbling but it was missing washer under the center console. Even with washer 2,4,R does not enter

4: Miss fire, said it was the coil pack.


Thing i wish to do on it is to change the body to talon and put grey inside instead of the beige interior and paint it a nice dark purple at the end

The car is supposed to have 400hp
- 4g64 block with 4g63 head
- Unknown forged internal
- bigger injector (unknown CC)
- 255 fuel pump
- big 16G
- Magnus intake
- FMIC
- 95 ecm with dsmlink
- Gauge: boost, wideband, air/fuel, pyrometer
- Unknown clutch
- GSX front brake upgrade
- Apexi stainless steel exhaust
- tial blow off valve
- vibrant tower brace
- TIEN master flex suspension
- Comp camshaft cams
- K&N air filter
-GM MAF sensor

FB_IMG_1540012371623.jpg Screenshot_2018-10-11-02-47-02.png Screenshot_2018-10-11-02-47-13.png Screenshot_2018-10-11-02-47-23.png
The week after i bought it, so by the time i write this it's last week, i worked on it a little. The coil pack and ignition wire are changed and still have trouble starting. I think it may be the injector. I also took it for a short ride to see if the clutch were slipping. I came back after 5-6 lap around the block, with oy one stop it's easy not using the clutch. I came back in my parking and the clutch stayed on the floor, look like the slave cylinder cut in half so i bought an new one and while the cas was on the jack stan i did an oil change with royal purple. The fork is sitting way to much on the passenger side for unknown reason and with the new slave that i think was bleeded correctly i can't even push the clutch far enough to get the car started. I unplugged the clutch sensor under the dash and as i thought the clutch is not disengaging or barely so i can’t drive yet.
 
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Congrats on the purchase and welcome to the site!

You'll want to make sure the clutch hydraulic system is adjusted properly, this might help with the problem

 
Already view the video and already tried what they say, didnt work, the master cylinder no matter where i ajust it there seem to be little to no difference
 
Ok so yesterday the weather wasnt all too bad si i took the day to drop my tranny to change the throw out bearing. It was indeed my problem, i think. Cant say if yes or no yet since i had another problem. Here the full story.

It all started well. Put the car on all 4 jack stand, remove wheel and all, could'nt remove tierod so i removed the lowerarm i guess it's called, anyway i was able to take the axle out easy on driver side and with some assle on passenger side, it needed a bit more with the prybar. I started to remove tranny mount and that where the fun begin. Not the good fun. One of the last owner who worked on this is an idiot who did stupid thing for unknow reason. First the front tranny mount. You can easily take it off and have to anyway to drop the tranny under the car. It was welded to that other part and for unknow reason as you can see on the picture.
20181108_102358.jpg 20181108_102403.jpg
After that i unbolt the other 2 and make sure my jack is under the tranny and that there is a jack stant under the engine. I started to disconect everything from the tranny. The shifting cable were stuck. The first one that go up and down were not easy bud did came out. The other one is still on it, both were broken at some point and welded back. The biggest trouble is that the cable that break was the one that needed to be change. So now even with the bearing changed and all sitting right in the midle of the window on the bellhousing i cant put it in gear.
20181108_125729.jpg 20181108_125721.jpg
After that i unbolted the tranny, i dont know the torque spec but i am pretty sure it more than what it was. I didnt even had to force to unbolt them, liek if they were tighten by a 5 year old and even then i think it would have been better. After that i was able to easily pry it out and change the bearing and just in case i added a shim to the pivot ball. All alone it'a not that easy to put it back but wasnt that bad either. It took around 12hour total and today my muscle hurt from every where LOL. I forgot to say, i putted some redline mt90 in it to be on safe side. There were barely no oil in the trans, i took the bolt off after took it frome the car since my only 24mm sockrt was a long one and did not fit when bolt on. There were not more than 200ml of oil in there. No wonder why it didnt leak after i took of both front axle. Now'it have 2,5 quart and hope it wasnt empty because of a major leak somewhere that i didnt see the hole or something
 
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