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2G 1997 GS-T - No start after drive

saulofaria

Probationary Member
22
6
Jul 13, 2021
BEACONSFIELD, QC_Canada
Hello Everyone,
Well, I am stuck in a vicious cycle with my 1997 GS-T.
The car crank but struggles to fire during a cold start and most often after a short break (like going into a store and return to the car - engine is already at operating temperature) the car won't start.
I have attempted to fix the car by replacing the Fuel Pump, Fuel pressure regulator and Coolant Sensor. I have no more ideas how to go about this issue. I am bypassing the Fuel Pressure Solenoid but plugging the vaccum line from the Fuel Pressure Regulator directly to the intake manifold.
I hope someone can point me at the right troubleshooting here.
Thx
 
Solution
Well it has been a while and I was finally able to figure it out.
The culprit was the Fuel Sending Unit. The neck had a small leak and coudn't tell while driving that there was gasoline leaking at the time but eventually with a few driving and treppidation the crack became bigger and then I could see the leak.
I had then replaced the Sending Unit and the car now driving better than before.
Well, lesson learned.

saulofaria

Probationary Member
22
6
Jul 13, 2021
BEACONSFIELD, QC_Canada
For mods just a down pipe Megan racing
No ECM link as far as I know.
the code I get is P1105(fuel pressure solenoid - I am bypassing that)
 

Dericsh

Supporting Member
1,325
551
Nov 25, 2002
Pearl River, Louisiana
Can you pull up a data list on your code reader while it’s not cranking and check the ECT temp reading? Verify the sensor/wiring it sending the correct signal to the ECM
 

saulofaria

Probationary Member
22
6
Jul 13, 2021
BEACONSFIELD, QC_Canada
Sounds like the fuel pressure solenoid on the firewall isnt connected. The fuel rail gets hot and the fuel boils, the solenoid burps the rail and the car starts.

So hook the vacuum line back up to the solenoid from the fuel rail
Hello @chrysler kid Yeah. it was like that but the solenoid needs to be replaced.

Hello @Dericsh Got the codes today, after clearning the codes and a 30 min drive I got the codes.
P0340- Camshaft Position Sensor "A" circuit Bank 1 or Single Sensor - This one is new. I need to review what has to be done about it.
P1400- Manifold Diff pressure sensor - I have already replaced the sensor MD305600, wasn't that suppose to resolve this issue?
P0505- Idle Control System - The Car Idles Perfectly
P1104 - Wastegate Solenoid - The car makes whistle noise when getting turbo pressure but there is no boost. Possibly this is the cultprit? I thought was my BOV going bad ?!
P1105 - Fuel Pressure Solenoid - That I know is bad, I don't have a replacement at the moment
 

Dericsh

Supporting Member
1,325
551
Nov 25, 2002
Pearl River, Louisiana

saulofaria

Probationary Member
22
6
Jul 13, 2021
BEACONSFIELD, QC_Canada
We are getting somewhere! From 5 codes down to 3.
I have replaced the Camshaft sensor and now the P0340 is gone.
I yet have the old struggle tho with starting rough and not having power at 4k rpm+ ....
The Start issue is due to the Fuel Pressure Solenoid (P1105), I have bypassed that by connecting the vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Sensor to the Manifold. When I disconnect the vaccum line the car starts much easier. I am not sure how people have handled that differently with that delete route ..... just live with the issue?

The other codes are:
P0505 Idle Control System . ( this is weird, my idle is good and I don't have any issue with it)
P1300 - Manifild Diferental Pressure Sensor - I have replaced that sensor and yet thows that code. But I know that one can be ignored.

Now the main issue is the car has no power when on boost. I am afraid that the Turbo Wastegate Actuator is not opening, would that make any sense?
 

Buddy2

Proven Member
129
32
Oct 7, 2013
Helsinki, Europe
We are getting somewhere! From 5 codes down to 3.
I have replaced the Camshaft sensor and now the P0340 is gone.
I yet have the old struggle tho with starting rough and not having power at 4k rpm+ ....
The Start issue is due to the Fuel Pressure Solenoid (P1105), I have bypassed that by connecting the vacuum line from the Fuel Pressure Sensor to the Manifold. When I disconnect the vaccum line the car starts much easier. I am not sure how people have handled that differently with that delete route ..... just live with the issue?

The other codes are:
P0505 Idle Control System . ( this is weird, my idle is good and I don't have any issue with it)
P1300 - Manifild Diferental Pressure Sensor - I have replaced that sensor and yet thows that code. But I know that one can be ignored.

Now the main issue is the car has no power when on boost. I am afraid that the Turbo Wastegate Actuator is not opening, would that make any sense?
Actually sticking up open wastegate or badly cracked housing around the flap could very much cause no power. Do you have reliable boost gauge to check if your really getting boost correctly? also simple things like checking that your turbo has not made it loose and is sitting tight on manifold. If there is adjustment screw from wastegate actuator to the flap in the turbo exhoust housing that its indeed closed too only real way to verify this would be to look inside tho that there is no bad cracks and the flap is sealing while its closed.
 
Last edited:

saulofaria

Probationary Member
22
6
Jul 13, 2021
BEACONSFIELD, QC_Canada
Post a picture of your engine bay. Im willing to bet those sensors arent plugged in

The boost control solenoid is under the mass air flow sensor under the intake in the engine bay hanging on the side of the frame rail
@chrysler kid the engine is all stock. no mods or vacuum deletes on it ...
I have checked the Boost Control Solenoid and the lines are connected as expected. Any help I will appreciate.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Actually sticking up open wastegate or badly cracked housing around the flap could very much cause no power. Do you have reliable boost gauge to check if your really getting boost correctly? also simple things like checking that your turbo has not made it loose and is sitting tight on manifold.
hey @Buddy2 , I did check the shaft and there is no play on the turbo shaft. Sadly I don't have other tools to check if the wastegate is the issue. I am between buying tools + replacement part or just getting a replacement for it and see how it goes.
If the issue I am having makes sense I would ratter just replace it ... what do you thing?
 

Buddy2

Proven Member
129
32
Oct 7, 2013
Helsinki, Europe
@chrysler kid the engine is all stock. no mods or vacuum deletes on it ...
I have checked the Boost Control Solenoid and the lines are connected as expected. Any help I will appreciate.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

hey @Buddy2 , I did check the shaft and there is no play on the turbo shaft. Sadly I don't have other tools to check if the wastegate is the issue. I am between buying tools + replacement part or just getting a replacement for it and see how it goes.
If the issue I am having makes sense I would ratter just replace it ... what do you thing?
Reliable boost gauge would be the easiest way to confirm that there is no issue with the turbo withouth having to take the exhaust side of the turbo off to look at the wastegate itself. Most of time the loss of power would obiviously be not getting correct boost in turbo car. Id start with pressuring the ic pipes throtle body and injector seals and if there is no leaks pre cylinders then look out for leaks in manifold and wastegate itself.
 
Last edited:

kenamond

DSM Wiseman
3,225
56
Feb 15, 2006
Los Alamos, New_Mexico
Boost leak test. If you have a serious leak between the compressor and the motor, that can kill performance above 4k rpm. BLT is part of the job with these cars. BLT every oil change or two.
In order to BLT, you need a real boost gauge. Worst case, tee in a cheap gauge, run the line and gauge to your windshield and duct tape it outside to the glass for testing. Or get an aftermarket A-pillar pod and do it right.
You can “brake boost” in 2nd gear or drive anywhere - mash the gas in gear while holding your speed with the break pedal and see if you build boost past 4k.
Borrow/buy a hand-pump vacuum tester and check the WGA. It’s been too long for my old neurons, but IIRC, the WGA opens at around 10psi. If the test verifies this, you can bypass the boost control solenoid and wire the compressor housing nipple straight to the WGA nipple and get 10psi boost which is close to stock and would feel kinda normal. However, if the WGA is not opening, you’d see the opposite problem: the wastegate stays shut and you overboost and either hit fuel cut or knock like crazy due to super hot intake temps. If the WGA is somehow stuck open, you wouldn’t build boost, but it’s a job to yank the O2 housing to find that out.
If you have the vacuum tester, also check the blowoff valve. 2g plastic BOV sucks but you have to upgrade your intake pipe to get the adapter/flange for an all-metal 1g bov. I think the 2g bov can only hold about 12psi, but you can test that. The 2g bov is plastic and the nipple easily breaks off which basically disables it which is hard on your turbo. Doubt that’s the problem though - wouldn’t limit 4k+ power.
 

chrysler kid

Proven Member
2,380
462
Dec 20, 2002
Mckinney, Texas
I cant see what I need to see in the video. Take a picture of your engine bay so i can see the whole area, and then one of the intake manifold with the throttle body and the brake master cylinder in the picture.

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak or boost leak, so i want to see a better picture of the area around the intake manifold
 

saulofaria

Probationary Member
22
6
Jul 13, 2021
BEACONSFIELD, QC_Canada
Well it has been a while and I was finally able to figure it out.
The culprit was the Fuel Sending Unit. The neck had a small leak and coudn't tell while driving that there was gasoline leaking at the time but eventually with a few driving and treppidation the crack became bigger and then I could see the leak.
I had then replaced the Sending Unit and the car now driving better than before.
Well, lesson learned.
 
Solution
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