The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support ExtremePSI

1997 Eclipse Spyder GST Vacuum?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Narish Do Urden

10+ Year Contributor
162
0
Dec 13, 2011
Omaha, Nebraska
I was messing around under the hood then suddenly pulled a vacuum tube with a sensor on it, the engine is a 4G63T, stock, except for the BOV

I don't have a picture of it, but it has part number

K5T49588 7407
Made in Japan

Can anyone help me out on where this is supposed to be connected to? I think it's the cause of some bad neutral, and park idling.

It's right under the intake filter on the passenger side of the car, look snapped off maybe when I lifted the filter a little bit it snapped.
 
I was messing around under the hood then suddenly pulled a vacuum tube with a sensor on it, the engine is a 4G63T, stock, except for the BOV

I don't have a picture of it, but it has part number

K5T49588 7407
Made in Japan

Can anyone help me out on where this is supposed to be connected to? I think it's the cause of some bad neutral, and park idling.

It's right under the intake filter on the passenger side of the car, look snapped off maybe when I lifted the filter a little bit it snapped.


Might of been the Boost Control Solenoid. Was is a thin tube connected to the inlet pipe?
Did the sensor look similar to this?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Yup that's it. Has a long tube connected to it, and a tube connector, the connector part were it actually goes to looks either snapped or worn from heat, still not sure where it to put it back.


Thanks for pic, was gettin mad I couldn't find for the life of me what it was.
 
Well some people actually prefer to take the whole thing out completely or mod it,
If you are interested in modding it heres a link for that: Alex's 2g Waste Gate Solenoid Restriction Removal FAQ

But if you just want to hook it back up The bottom nipple of the Boost Control Solenoid(BCS) connects in a small hole on the side of the rubber inlet pipe. The top nipple of the BCS connects to a "T-connecter" which splits the tube and one connects to the nipple of the "Wastegate actuator"(The gold circular thing in the picture). And to the nipple on the compressor side housing(assuming you are running on stock t25)

Just imagine a t-connector on this orange tube and connects straight to the top nipple of the BSC.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Thanks for the response, it looks like previous owner rigged a T connecter with an Aftermarket BOV, so I'll probably follow the tutorial to just remove it.. Here's some pics, its been swapped with a manual Boost Control Setup, but they left the electronic piece just hanging there, in one of the pics the other hose isn't connected to the T, i pulled it off to check it, but yeah its a manual boost control. Asked a friends about the idling thing, he said the BOV isn't closing fast enough and staying open to long. Will that cause the issue? When I rev, bogs down and almost dies, when I cold start sometimes does the same thing, sometimes doesn't.
 
That small tube at the end of the BOV should be connected to a nipple on the intake manifold itself(right under the MAP sensor as seen in the pic).

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I would also recirculate the BOV
 
These threads just remind me that I'm dragging my feet on the Cyclone Manifold..
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


The BOV is recirculated and connected, in the picture shown. If I'm not mistaken,

Alex's 2g Waste Gate Solenoid Restriction Removal FAQ

The steps were completed with the Aftermarket BOV, but the electrical boost control still just sitting there, still working. Should I just reroute the vacuum tube into itself or plug them? Where you see that foil is what connected to the stock blow off valve, I have that sealed, then there's 2 vacuum openings that were basically used for what my T connecter in the other pic is for. I have those sealed.

Just tryin to figure out what to do with the electrical boost control, since it was converted already. Call me ignorant, I don't think I'm understanding. The BOV has a tube that is connected as to the small tube under the MAF, and it is recirculated.


The part in your first pic, the solenoid, should I just disconnect it?
 
When it means recirculating the BOV, it means connecting that funnel speaker looking thing (From the BOV) to the tube with the foil on it.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top