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2G 1995 eclipse gst wont idle

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AbgxLilkd

Proven Member
42
1
Jan 12, 2019
Clarkesville, Georgia
My 1995 mitsubishi eclipse gst wont idle Right for some reason. It acts like it ain’t getting fuel but I am sure it’ll turn over fine and act like it wants to start But still want have done bought new spark plus and tried hitting it with some starter fluid and still cant get it to run without me haveing my foot on the gas
 
If there are vac lines that aren't ran I would start with getting them hooked up properly. Also my next guess would be the IACV
Ok ill make sure tommrow after work to grab sum hoses for vaccum lines and run all of em and so you know how i could test the IACV
 
Tuning options on your car? Simple fix with ECMTuning LINK or other, older options like SAFC and Jackle, etc. Let us know how the car is tuned, even if it's stock and unmodified for tuning.
 
Ok guys sorry for waiting so long kinda Been on hold Because of work and everything But last week i got a new tps installed it and everything car still wouldnt start its getting fuel idk about soark just yet but it has compression and timeing is in alignment when u out the engine at TDC so have have no clue what else it could Be to be honest ive order a new start and IAC just to be sure and might go ahead and replace the tb to see if that helps any but i got the whole idke surge to go away its hard to crank but once u do get it start it just wont idle itll rev fine and everything so i have no clue im at a lose here
 
It could not be idling correctly for a specific reason or few reasons or a combination of a few reasons. My dsm had a really weak idle when I first got it. I ended up replacing the power transistor ignition coil wires spark plugs and then my idle became a lot better although it’s still apparent there’s a vacuum leak somewhere and my tps needs a tune along with my idle speed controller replaced. Also make sure your coolant temp sensor is good my car had a ripped wire for that sensor and it was dumping fuel and would die unless you keep giving it gas.
 
I had to make sure everything on the intake was sealed before mine ran right. there was a leak from the intake where the BOV meets the intake right behind the pod filter for the turbo. also there was a vacuum line hooked up to the fuel pressure regulator that lead to nothing, so i had to put in a bolt in it to stop the leak.

essentially just go over it everywhere you can. look for any ripped or disconnected lines, see where they go, etc. make sure the entire intake side is all sealed up, make sure there's no crazy exhaust leaks, take the plugs back out and see if one has irregular wear, it could be misfiring. an engine only needs fuel, air, compression, and spark to start and run.
 
Have you done a boost leak test yet? Fix your leaks.
Fix your boost, vacuum AND exhaust leaks.

You have all of them. I'm sure of it. It's a mess in there.

If you are going to keep buying parts and throwing it at the car, might as well get Ecmlink. It'll help you now & later.

Also, search "boost leak test dsmtuners" on google. OR search "how to boost leak test" on HERE.
 
Ok guys think i found the culprit i was looking at my timeing my cam shaft and crank and alls lined uo but the oil pump pully i think thats wah it called aint line up does anyone know of any good video and pages or link i can go to to check to see the best way of fixing this would Be Bexause im not to experience with the whole timeing thing just yet on a dohc. Thanks for all the help if i get this fixed maybe itll run fineally ill come back once i know more
 
Snap a pic of the WHOLE front case. From what you are describing, if you have balance shafts, they may be out of phase. If you dont have balance shafts, then the oil pump gear doesnt matter.
 
Like jerzm3 stated at this point it’s time to determine if you have balance shafts or if they have been removed. If you do happen to have balance shafts your in for a ride because then you have to recompress the auto tensioner inspect it at that point see if it looks okay and looks with an old auto tensioner can be deceiving as well. I only say that because if your timing is indeed diagnosed to be off then that’s why you would do what I said I hope for you your balance shafts have been removed.
 
Well see thats the thing the balance shaft is aligned just right so is the crank and cams so i figured since the oil sprocket aint thatd have sum to do wit my no start either that or my crank sensor is dirt one
 

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Maybe what happened is when the timing belt was installed last whenever that may have been they accidentally put your oil sprocket on off because the way to truly line it up is by putting the mark at 12 o clock and letting it fall. If it falls counter clockwise to the mark your good if not spin it again and then retry but thats how you do it. After I zoomed into pics of your balance shaft I can see micro cracks on the belt I want to recommend to you changing your t belt balance belt pulleys and tensioners and probably your cam seals too, but before I do can another member clarify if damage has been done by the oil sprocket being off this much? Also yes a potential crank sensor or cam sensor cause no start issues so that could be why.
 
None of those marks mean anything unless you can see all five. The marks only lineup every 6 revolutions of the crank. Keep turning it one crank at a time. If after 6 times all 5 dont line up then the job is wrong IF you still have balance shafts. However even if its wrong it still wont cause idle issues. Just vibration
 
None of those marks mean anything unless you can see all five. The marks only lineup every 6 revolutions of the crank. Keep turning it one crank at a time. If after 6 times all 5 dont line up then the job is wrong IF you still have balance shafts. However even if its wrong it still wont cause idle issues. Just vibration
Ok ill try turning it 6 times and see if they all line up on each and im still gonna have to replace that belt he pointed out that i seen because my cam gear seal are leaking and guess it got oil on it. So imma replace those to just to go ahead and get it over with while im there any suggestion because it was a idle issues but now the car wont start it acts like it wants to but wont
 
Your dsm is acting like mine was it just started displaying those symptoms one day and it only stopped after I replaced the cam crank sensors and timing stuff. Okay first put a scanner on your car and try to find a code with some dsms you gotta play with the port very gently and itll tell you. Also cam seals are an absolute must I am going back to redo mine still along with my pullies so my new timing belt doesnt get messed up thats why after i redid everything I just test started it and drove it once but until it gets those pieces it needs I wont crank it.
 
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Your dsm is acting like mine was it just started displaying those symptoms one day and it only stopped after I replaced the cam crank sensors and timing stuff. Okay first put a scanner on your car and try to find a code with some dsms you gotta play with the port very gently and itll tell you. Also cam seals are an absolute must I am going back to redo mine still along with my pullies so my new timing belt doesnt get messed up thats why after i redid everything I just test started it and drove it once but until it gets those pieces it needs I wont crank it.
Ok ill make sure i replace them the car i have was swapped before wit a 6 bolt so i have a 1g cas its a green top
 
Ah I see thanks for clarifying what cas you have. I know 1g dsms are obd1 so pulling a code from those is different than a 2g. I’ll try to help ya the best I can here but someone else can hopefully chime in on this. 1g dsms use a cas that actually gets timed so if I were you I would time your cas there should be tuts online for this I would try YouTube first. Try timing your cas and then starting it I’m sure that’ll help.
 
I checked the cas it wasnt it its good i got another video just now of what its doing ill send the link
 
Have replace ECT sensor, tps,iac,checked timeing it looks good and have check cas and its good so idk what else to do tbh im at a loss here
 
Yes o2 sensor is plugged in and yes near the end i start pumping the gas because when u do sometimes it acts like it wonts to start
 
Yes o2 sensor is plugged in and yes near the end i start pumping the gas because when u do sometimes it acts like it wonts to start
Lots of comments from folks. Let's rule out some things,.....
Was the car running well before other than idling? If so that basically rules out firing order. It won't suddenly be different
Your car is cranking very slow. Possible battery but more likely from the pictures I see you're missing a starter ground.
I don't see a profile page so we don't know what your car has. You may not know either. I spot way more than what you originally post.
At a minimum, some sort of MHI derived turbo, not the stock t25.
1g bov severely crushed
1g intake manifold and throttle body elbow. Likely this is a 1g motor swap.
1g cas which we will assume is wired correctly for now but you should verify.

Now then....tell us IN ORDER what the car did and now what it's currently doing.

Throwing parts at it is a bad idea. Absolutely no reason to do that. It's way too easy to diagnose stuff via a multimeter, logger sortware and basic tests both physical and visual.
BTW pumping the pedal does nothing. All you might have done is allow more air in and if it tried to start then you possibly have a super rich mixture. I say possibly because we don't know squat yet.
I've seen very little objective stuff in this entire thread.

Tell us what you KNOW, not what you believe and lets go from there.
Do you know the mechanical, NOT ignition, timing is correct?
Verify grounds.
verify ISC is working or at least test the coils
verify BISS isn't bottomed out.
Check for leaks
Check ECU for physical damage.

Fill out a profile. We have NO idea what your car is or has done to it unless you tell us. It's okay if you don't know everything. Start with what you know and we will help fill in as you learn.

Do NOT assume anything. That is a bad way to diagnose. Reasonable assumptions sure but flat out guesses...no. Even if there is reasonable assumption sometimes you still have to go back and do more testing, looking, etc etc.
 
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