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1995 Eagle Talon TSi Full Street Build

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paint and clear coat complete. Will be doing the wheel wells this weekend with the undercoating.
First picture is the day I got the car and second is after the clear coat

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You might want to remove the bumper supports - undo the 4 bolts - and take a look at the inside of the frame rails.

BTW -Those 4 bolts are the quickest way to remove the front bumper - you can leave the headlights in, and slide the whole assembly out the front.
 
Got a few more items done this past week.
- Painted and greased wiper rack
- rust-oleum professional grade undercoating in front wheel wells
- bumper support installed (waiting for new bolts)
- front mount intercooler support installed
- painted rad supports
 

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Update: I was able to find a 98 block in good shape which is being sent to MAperformance for a stage 2 build. Stripping the head of my 97 motor and shipping it down to them to be built as well. Will add the parts list shortly but can’t wait . Also learned how painful shipping a motor is from U.S to Canada
 
Wanted to open this up and get the groups thoughts on a turbo. I've been looking at the FP Red/Green and the HX35/40 but haven't been able to make a decision. Goal is around 450-500 WHP on 93 octane as we dont have E85 here. I dont want anything that is super laggy as the car will mainly be driven on the street. Any input, i just picked up a Walbro 400lp with re-wire the other day in anticipation of the build
 
Others can tell you about FP - I've been told their stuff is great. I've yet to be in a position where I want to throw down the cash to buy new, but if I had cash for new, that's who I'd go with.

I've been having fun making the MHI TD05H and E3 stuff work. So far I've burned through a GVR4 Big16G TD05H with a 2G, D2 casting ported 7cm2 turbine housing. I Managed to get 24psi max and 382HP out of it before I noticed the big cracks.

After a rebuild, and a E-Bay E3 turbine housing update, what little time I've had it running, I noticed the spool was very nice, but I don't have numbers on its max performance yet.

I'm very curious to have jusMX141 machine a TD05H compressor housing for a 20G billet compressor wheel, in combo with a clipped 12 blade turbine shaft to see what that does.
 
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I suspect a green/hx35 would struggle to hit 500whp on 93. I ran something similar to a red with s2 cams and it made 30 psi at 4500 rpms. Of course, laggy is subjective. If you really want to spend then consider the newer Xona "S" turbos. My xr-71-64s makes 30 psi at 4600 on the exact same engine setup but can make 100hp more. Not bad for a 700hp turbo. In the end, I feel like the FP bolt-on turbos are getting too expensive. It was just a few years, literally, that one could get a green, red ect for $800. Not anymore.
 
I suspect a green/hx35 would struggle to hit 500whp on 93. I ran something similar to a red with s2 cams and it made 30 psi at 4500 rpms. Of course, laggy is subjective. If you really want to spend then consider the newer Xona "S" turbos. My xr-71-64s makes 30 psi at 4600 on the exact same engine setup but can make 100hp more. Not bad for a 700hp turbo. In the end, I feel like the FP bolt-on turbos are getting too expensive. It was just a few years, literally, that one could get a green, red ect for $800. Not anymore.
Thank you, I’m going to look into these. The no e85 up here makes things a little more difficult
 
Started pulling the motor apart tonight to get the head and crank off to MAP. Short block arrived with them this morning.
Feels like I’m starting to actually make progress. Got the dash sitting in the car yesterday, rear factory trailing arms installed along with 3G brake booster and master .

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Got tied up a little bit today trying to do the new walbro 400lph pump. Wishing I went with the 450 now as I can’t find a single write up on this one. Posted a separate forum in the newbie corner but essentially I can’t get the plastic clip on (photo 1) but ended up doing the washer and rubber gasket but I don’t think this will hold once it gets pressure. Going to trouble shoot this and finish pulling the motor apart this weekend. Have to say the height of this pump I’m almost left with no rubber on the holder with how much had to be removed to get it to sit

Also got the an adaptor on from rtm for the feed line. Have the an adaptor for the return I still have to do.

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Got tied up a little bit today trying to do the new walbro 400lph pump. Wishing I went with the 450 now as I can’t find a single write up on this one. Posted a separate forum in the newbie corner but essentially I can’t get the plastic clip on (photo 1) but ended up doing the washer and rubber gasket but I don’t think this will hold once it gets pressure. Going to trouble shoot this and finish pulling the motor apart this weekend. Have to say the height of this pump I’m almost left with no rubber on the holder with how much had to be removed to get it to sit

Also got the an adaptor on from rtm for the feed line. Have the an adaptor for the return I still have to do.

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Oooh this is such good detail, and your timing for me is perfect. I think 450 is my next update. My Supra Green 260lph pump is getting long in the tooth.
 
I think I’m going to be changing this up as I’m not happy with the deal. Might get a different fitting, something similar to what rtm has and try it

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Got around to some misc items this weekend,

- painted the evo rear calipers and cts v set and threw on the brembo stickers. Back ones were a little large so could only go with the writing. Clear coat done after they were installed.
- removed stock bushings from front and rear subframe (wasn’t as bad as everyone makes it out to be)
- removed factory bushings from rear knuckles. They’re completely rusted out and bushings were shot. All prepped and bushings removed which took about 35 minutes. Por 15 and prothane bushings next.
- cleaned and prep a handful of items for painting (rear diff, subframes, rear knuckles, misc brackets)

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Got around to por15 the knuckles, painting them and installing the prothane bushings in the rear. Installed new hubs on the front set, waiting on the rear set to arrive still

Front and rear subframe also got the same por-15 treatment along with POM bushings from DCP.

Picked up an evo rear sway bar this weekend and started working on the rear diff.

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Trying to keep track of parts and mods so far. Rough parts list of what’s done so far and in the works

Engine
  • Magnus Motorsports adjustable cam gears
  • FUELAB Fuel filter
  • Walbro 400lph fuel pump
  • 8an braided stainless Teflon lined pump to filter fuel line
  • 6am braided stainless Teflon lined return line
  • MAPerformance short block Stage 2
- Manley I beams

- ACL bearings

- Manley 8.5:1 Pistons

- ARP main studs

  • MAPerformance stage 1 cylinder head
- Brian Crower springs and retainers

- Ferrea valve guides

- Ferrea valve seals

- ARP head studs

- Mitsubishi metal / MLS head gasket

Drivetrain
  • Dudes Custom Parts POM driveshaft carrier bushings
  • B&M short throw shifter
  • Frontline fabrications rear differential cover
  • New front and rear hubs and wheel bearings with wheel studs
  • Exedy master cylinder
  • Exedy Slave cylinder
  • Braided clutch line

Suspension
  • New Mitsubishi rear trailing arms (new bolts)
  • New rear hub assemblies and bearings
  • Moog front hub assemblies with bearings
  • New inner tie rod boots (2 qty)
  • New outer tie rods (2 qty)
  • New inner tie rods. (2qty)
  • RTM power steering rack rebuild kit (seals/gaskets)
  • Por 15 front and rear subframes
  • Dude custom parts front and rear subframe POM bushings
  • Dude custom parts differential bushings
  • Dude custom parts billet differential mount
  • Rear knuckle upper and lower prothane bushings
  • Delphi front upper control arms and ball joints
  • Mevotech front lower control arm and ball joints
  • OE+ front lower forward control arm and ball joints
  • New OEM suspension nuts and bolts in front and rear throughout
  • Moog front and rear sway bar end links
  • RTM rear upper control arms
  • VMC tubular adjustable rear lower control arms
  • Mevotech rear control arm and ball joints
  • Boosted fabrication chromly cross member with tow hook and roll stop

Brakes
  • CTS V 4 piston Front Calipers (3mm shaved from backside)
  • CTS V RTM Racing front Caliper spacer
  • Mitsubishi EVO 8 rear 2 piston calipers (rebuilt)
  • New Mitsubishi OEM rear brake dust shields
  • Mitsubishi Eclipse (SKP) 3G power brake booster (c/w new seal at firewall)
  • Raybestos 3G master cylinder
  • RTM ABS Delete with proportioning valve
  • Braided front lines from proportioning valve to front wells
  • Evo rear braided brake lines
  • Raybestos parking brakes (2qty)
Body
  • new rear hatch struts from RTM (2 qty)
  • New Mitsubishi front wheel well splash shields
  • Carbonetics AR wide body front fenders
  • New OEM style 2GB front bumper
  • Mitsubishi Eclipse 2Gb rear bumper
  • Mitsubishi Eclipse 2G taillights
  • Eagle Eye Mitsubishi Eclipse 2G headlights with custom retrofit (Porsche Panamera shrouds, Morimoto Mini H1 projectors, retrofit source H.I.D kit)
  • Clear front side markers
  • Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX rear spoiler
  • Engine bay treated with POR15, primed and painted in Audi Nardo Grey
  • Wheel wells treated with POR15 and Rust-oleum professional grade undercoating
  • New OEM front wheel well liners
  • Painted and greased wiper rack
  • New OEM Hood latch
  • Dudes custom parts front bumper intake tube
Interior
  • Tuning art carbon fiber door card inserts
 
RM racing front sway arrived today. Thanks to Dan at Mach V for answering all my questions and the quick shipping. Have an evo rear to pair with this

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I’ve got some videos posted on YouTube and TikTok of some of these parts and Instagram has some better pictures of the build
TikTok/Instagram: 4g3dperformance
Yt: 4g3d
 
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