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1993 Eclipse GSX

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Bummer. Go for the E3 (big) 16G with the 7cm turbine housing. @JusMX141 with the turbo hookup! It's a really nice street turbo that makes good torque and still spools up decent.
This is the turbo I have been eyeballing. Seems to be a common bolt in upgrade. Nothing crazy but a better stock style.
Funny enough I googled "16G with the 7cm turbine housing" to do some research and he was in the first post I clicked on with some very helpful information about part numbers and housing sizes.
16g would be your best bet, however blown Chinese 16g knockoffs are a dime a dozen, could always rob the more open 7cm housing and adjustable gate actuator off one cheap for your 14b if desired. I think it’s been years since I’ve seen a 6cm turbine housing from a 14b that isn’t cracked.
I thought about doing something like that but I dont think I want to mess with the Chinses ones. I know some last but I also know some dont. Would rather pay a bit more for something proper that will last.
The crack isnt my only concern. The wastegate actuator is also not centered at all. This is not something I have personally seen before.
If your concern is the gate offset hit the shaft with a hammer and knock the bushing back into place. The lever arm should be flush to the casting.
That is one of the concerns. I didnt know it could be hit back into place. Tried this and it worked great. Sadly while I was there I found more cracks. Not just around the wastegate. I think im going to have to replace the turbo either way.
The limiting factor is your injectors. They're a tad on the small side for pushing anything more than a e316g while maintaining sub 80 idc, so anything larger turbo wise would require bigger squirts.

It's anecdotal but I was pushing damn near 80% with 10.5-.8 at 23psi on a evo1 16g, 91oct and fic 750s.
The e316g is sorta what I was thinking when I got the injectors. They were also a very good price. I actually was going to run the current turbo for a while until I felt that I needed more power but didnt want to go something too crazy. Still want the car to be reliable.

Some bonus pictures for fun...
This crack goes all the way through.
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Here are 3 cracks near the wastegate.
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Here is the wastegate flap thingy after I beat it back into place. There are cracks on either side.
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WTF is 11010?? I cant find much info on this number.
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I wasn’t saying use the whole Chinese 16g, but rather buy one that’s already roached to take the 7cm turbine housing from. While it’s not uncommon for the turbo itself to not live long, the 7cm turbine housing and adjustable wastegate actuator that comes on them actually isn’t too bad. The 7cm housing from a 16g works with a 14b as it’s still a td05 turbine wheel and is more open and flows more than the 6cm they came with. Although if you’re looking to upgrade to a 16g now isn’t a bad time, but with the availability of 7cm turbine housings from blown Chinese 16g’s your 14b could be used if desired.
 
I wasn’t saying use the whole Chinese 16g, but rather buy one that’s already roached to take the 7cm turbine housing from. While it’s not uncommon for the turbo itself to not live long, the 7cm turbine housing and adjustable wastegate actuator that comes on them actually isn’t too bad. The 7cm housing from a 16g works with a 14b as it’s still a td05 turbine wheel and is more open and flows more than the 6cm they came with. Although if you’re looking to upgrade to a 16g now isn’t a bad time, but with the availability of 7cm turbine housings from blown Chinese 16g’s your 14b could be used if desired.
Ah gotcha. I figured every aspect of them would be the same quality.
Ill have to research to see how I can accurately identify the 7cm housing so I get something compatible.
I would like to keep this turbo as it seems to be in great shape aside from the cracks on the hot side.
 
I finally got around to fixing the pulled out driver side seat stud. It looks like it was pulled out of the body at some point. Also shampooed the carpet and seat while I was there. Cant really tell because of the age but it does look way better than before.
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Removed the turbo in exhaust manifold to address some leaks and some loose/missing/broken hardware. Also do a general clean up and inspection. Found my turbo will need to be replaced (See a few posts above). For the time being I cleaned everything up and reassembled it so I could still start and move the car around.
While I was here I sourced some hardware and cleaned up mating surfaces. No more leaks so far. You can see where the exhaust was leaking in the below pics.
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Exhaust reinstalled and after a couple runs around the block. So far so good!
Wrapped the exhaust as I am told these cheap chinese manifolds can get quite hot and melt cooling fans.
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Finally finished fitting the intercooler mounting.
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I got some 680cc injectors put in! Yay unutilized performance parts!
Dont mind the connectors... They are HORRIBLY brittle and exploded the minute I looked at them. I have some newer style plugs on the way that do not have those god-awful metal clips.
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On a happy note. I finally took the car out for a drive around the block for the first time since I got it! It was terrible but amazing all at the same time.
Was a short drive since its still on Non Op. I was able to get a data log that I will post below. Im still new to tuning and not 100% sure how to read them but I know its not good. I am seeing the car run lean and knocking. I did find a leak at the throttle body that I have since fixed but havent been able to take it out again.
I am having a problem with the intercooler piping blowing off the MAF once I lift off the throttle after building boost. Its almost as if my blow off valve isnt opening fast enough and the built up pressure is blowing the pipe off. I did replace the spring in the BOV with a stiffer one because it was open at idle. This might have been the wrong choice, I dont know.
The pipe blowing off the MAF took out the AC coolant sensor connector. Luckily I do not need this and plan on removing the sensor and blocking it with a plug.
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Cooling fans mounted and wired to stock harness.
Got the male fan end connector from ebay that wires to the stock body harness and a pigtail from @92AWDHX40 for the coolant temp sensor at the bottom of the radiator.
Jumped the coolant temp sensor side to make sure the fans kick on and they do. Hopefully the sensor itself works.
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Took it for a short drive today to get some data logged.
I was reminded how old I am and how much I do not miss stiff loud uncomfortable cars.
The whole car vibrates so bad I cannot see out of the rear view mirror and the suspension is so stiff it feels like its solid.
Think I might soften the suspension and sourcing stock motor mounts.
 
Got a legit EGR delete plate from RTM installed.
Also ordered both sides of the TB gaskets and the butterfly shaft seals from RTM while I was at it. Replaced the o-ring on the BISS screw as well. Now boost leak free!
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Found I need to replace the coolant lines that go to the bottom of the throttle body.
Went for a spin around the block again. Something in my front left wheel is squealing quite loudly. Definitely brake related as it goes away when I apply the brakes. Will check that out at some point.
 
Found the source of my brake squeal. The bottom of the left front brake heat shield was rubbing on the rotor. Used the ol persuasion tool and got that sorted out.
Removed both my rear shocks to soften them up. While I had the area apart I sprayed the wheel wells with some bed liner spray since I had a can laying around. (Forgot to take a picture of this. Whoops)

A few posts back I noted my rear left brake line had rubbed through. I replaced it with a steel braded line from a kit I had purchased. Well I found the line was once again rubbing on something. I assume the wheel. But after reinstalling everything the line is nowhere near anything that would make it rub. So ill have to keep an eye out on it I suppose.
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I went to adjust my clutch pedal because I am getting a very light grind sometimes going into gear. Looks like my linkage is warn pretty bad. Where the pedal links to the master at the adjustable rod with a pin there is a lot of slop.
Looks like I can get bushing kits to repair this. I will research my options.


Decided to do something about my wonky dome light. Opened it up and found some cheap LED bulbs in there. One missing, two bad, and 1 still working. Quickly chucked all those in the garbage. Will order some quality replacements soon.
It seemed like the contacts for the buttons were not good. I could wiggle the buttons and the light would change brightness. Decided to take it apart to inspect.
Found what im assuming is dialectric grease from the factory. I cleaned this all off and reflowed all the solder joints while I was there. Working much better now!
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Found the source of my rear brake line rubbing problem. The line was very close to the inside of the wheel and there is a clean mark on the inside of the rim where it rubbed. I bent the bracket away a little bit to help clearance.

Got an EVO 16G from @PredatorSniper. Thanks again! Turbo is working well even though I'm not yet using it to its full potential. I am going to send the actuator out to Justin Whitesell for an upgrade in the very near future. I tried bending it straight and it cracked at the base. Oof... Yes I soldered it back together and surprisingly its working for the time being.
I tried to get the stock fuel pump out and could not for the life of me crack that fuel line loose. I eventually gave up and decided to buy a piece of rubber hose and cut the pipe in half and reconnect with hose. That is a project for future me.
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Last time I had the manifold off I noticed it looked like it was leaking at the gasket to head side in one corner. Was told this is most likely because of the cheap manifold not being flat.
Well... This was 100% the case. This thing was SO uneven it was almost not believable. I have no idea how the rest of it was sealing.
Made up a jig for it and put it through the milling machine. Bolted back up with no issues. We'll see how it holds up.
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I left the car out in the rain recently and noticed that water was getting into the hatch and running into the trunk when I opened it. The spoiler fit was also loose so decided to remove the spoiler and inspect.
Found both of the mounts broken, which seems common. Had to hoopty them back onto the spoiler with some super glue and duct tape (not kidding). It seemed to work surprisingly well for the time being.
Also cleaned up the trunk area underneath and the spoiler itself. Also sprayed the black trim piece with some bed liner spray since it was half flaked off. Figured the bed liner would hide imperfections better.
This is the first time ive done anything cosmetically to the outside because there were so much mechanical issues. It's nice to see something done that's noticeable from the outside.
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Next big thigs are an alignment and finishing tuning.
I took a log of the longest cruise I've ever taken in the car tonight, which was about 15 minutes, and to my untrained eye everything looked good except I seem to get phantom knock REALLY bad while cruising in 4th at 40ish mph.
Log is attached if anyone is curious at how its looking. I'm open to feedback if anyone's willing.
 

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