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1992 Talon TSI 6/4 AUTO

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Well I found a FuelLab filter at STM, and I took a screen shot of the ad. It says "universal fit" so that makes me think that "most" elements would fit in the FuelLab can, as long as they seal at the inside port. IDK, what do you all think? That twisted up element still has me scratching my head :hmm:
Here is the ad:
I don't know, but they have Fuel Filters all listed under the "Universal Parts" heading and I think that's what they mean. It's not for any particular kind of car.
In the Fuelab technical data sheet for the 828 and 818 series filters (yours would be an 818) they say "Use only Fuelab replacement elements only when replacing element." Geez they said "only" twice.

The pic they showed in Dragzine was of a Fuelab element in a Fuelab housing, and it was all shriveled up plus corroded or something with white stuff all over it.
The pic in Dragzine was of a 6 micron micro-fiberglass element and it looked like the longer 828 series which uses a 5 inch long element. That's exactly what I have in my car.

So, I haven't looked at mine yet, but I'm starting to wonder if maybe the actual problem is the micro-fiberglass material, whether Fuelab brand or Aeromotive brand. Maybe it just clogs up too easy. Then with E85 which can make a goo, that would be even more clogging than just little particles.

I think it's spooky that you couldn't blow through your element while it was still wet, but then you could after it dried out.

The filter that was on my car from 2016 to 2022 is a little Moroso filter with a tiny (2.75" long x 0.75" dia) element, stainless steel 40 micron mesh, flowing inside to outside. It was less than half clogged with little rust particles and had no goo when I took it out. I figure some very small particles went right through it but it hasn't seemed to hurt anything. My injectors seem to be working same as ever, and my pressure regulator is so stable it's ridiculous.

Next summer I'm going to take my Fuelab 828 apart for a look. If it looks anything at all bad, I'm going to replace the element with a Fuelab 10 micron stainless steel mesh element (not fiberglass).
Oh heck they don't make a 10 micron stainless mesh. Their 10 micron is paper.
Well fooey then I don't know what I'm going to do - maybe I'd replace it with a 40 micron stainless mesh, or with a 10 micron paper even though they say not to use paper with E85. I'm not using anything over E60 anyway.
Sheesh! 🤣
 
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Yanked the old one out of the box and took some pics for ya, Marty.
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Boy I sure get you but I wonder if Fuelab just wants to sell THEIR filters over any competitors. Hell I don't care as long as it filters and the fact about the fiberglass that you brought up could be one of or THE issue. I always was scared to run a more coarse filter for fear of clogging an injector and going lean and torching a head gasket. Well, we are all learning, IDK what we are learning, but we are learning and I'll keep the posts going! Thanks @We're on Boost !!!
 
And Aeromotive measurements (believe me, they fit great, nice and snug on the inside port). :thumb:
Thanks Rob!

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That has maybe 5 hours of run time, if that, on gas. Just one I put in over the winter for when I cycle the motor.
 
Yep. Same size different element. I have ran them before. From your investigative information, I ran a high pressure pump into a clogged filter (thats what your picture showed I think). Clogged with what, I still don't know WTF it is.
Oh man sorry. You were asking Rob. My bad.
 
Oh is that the one you show measurements on up in post #406?


Yeah the usage I really wanted to know was on Rob's in post #402.
Hey, man. That one had about 300 miles or so on it running pump 93. 20 psi of boost, 43.5 base FP, on 660 injectors, 6AN PTFE feed and return 320 pump. I should've used the paper filter it came with for the first startup and couple tanks of fuel instead of the E85 filter. Oh well. I was battling inconsistent afr and there was minimal tank debris in there, so I swapped the filter and then, after pulling the pump I found my REAL problem. The 4 pin oem harness quick connector in the trunk had a bunk connection that I audibly heard the tone of the pump change when I bumped and wiggled it!! Bingo! Sorry for the drawn out answer but wanted to cover some important points in there, haha.
 
More info - good! I just assumed the one you showed was brand new since it looks brand new.
And I clean mine everytime I remove it and put it back in its blister pack. It hardly sees any fuel while it is in. It just sits there.
 
Gosh, not many. I changed over to AN lines and put a new trans in about the same time but haven't been able to drive her because of the mainshaft being broke, so I'd say maybe 200 miles. Under 500 since I was having E issues for a long time now, if you look back at some of the dates. I might even be able to see the odometer in some of the pictures, I'm not sure.
 
Gosh, not many. I changed over to AN lines and put a new trans in about the same time but haven't been able to drive her because of the mainshaft being broke, so I'd say maybe 200 miles. Under 500 since I was having E issues for a long time now, if you look back at some of the dates. I might even be able to see the odometer in some of the pictures, I'm not sure.
Oh man, not much run time at all. That seems really bad. Like the element must have been really flooded with some goo or little particles or something, or maybe it "grew" goo while just sitting there in-between uses.

I noticed that Motion Raceworks also makes a fuel filter with 10 micron "micro glass" element, and they say "We recommend replacing the micro glass filter often to reduce the risk of blockage due to the size of the filter pores."
Right, but this is ridiculous.
They refer to it as a "Post Filter". I think they have in mind that you will have a 100 micron filter before it. Because they call their 100 micron filter a "Pre Filter".
But man, I really do not want to do it that way. I'm not even convinced that it would take care of the problem you are having.

I found Motion Raceworks by watching this 2JZ video, where these guys show the fuel filter setup in the trunk, with a 100 micron and a 10 micron right next to each other. Here's a link right to that, for you sometime when you are bored or don't have enough to do HAHA!
Small Turbo 2JZ, Engine Run in, 660HP
 
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We have to do the pre and post on the son's Holley Sniper setup on his Camaro. 100 pre, 10 post, supposedly to keep debris out of the injectors in the unit. My "pre-filter" is the pump sock and it is 30 microns.
 
Yeah When you spend $2500 on just the fueling, you follow their directions. Hell, we sent that thing back to Holley 4 times I think so my son follows their instructions. The QC on some of their stuff leaves one wondering if any company is a good one anymore. It does work real well when you finally get it all working correctly.
 
Well I just had to post about the good old automatic car. Even tho she still just has 3 gears, she finally boosts (I had fueling issues you all know).
What I did tonight was pull the 525, replace its sock with a brand new one and reinstall. Maybe the old one had a collapse internally where there is some structure that holds the sock "apart", I really don't know, but that's all I replaced. I took her quickly down to the closest station for fresh fuel and the best I can get is 91, but I'm OK with that. She got 7 fresh gallons, or $25.00 worth! I left the station for a 2 mile drive home and someone just HAD to fk with me for no reason, so even though her timing needs pulled, I pedeled her at 20lbs boost and she treated me well. Under WOT, she needs less timing. This was one time out of literally hundreds of drives where I always take my laptop, but didn't. I don't care, she put a smile on my face, even with just 3 Gears (OD is still broken).
Marty :thumb:
 
I drove her again tonight and she still holds fuel pressure ⛽️, yay! Not a long drive but a spirited one! I need to retune her for the 91 fuel.
 
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