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1G 1992 Eagle Talon TSi AWD Parts List

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DreamChaser7

Supporting VIP
634
693
Jul 18, 2019
Valrico, Florida
So after a couple years of finally getting serious and researching, I have compiled my parts list for the build I will eventually get done. I think this list should get me 90% of the way there. Although it will take some years still to obtain all of the necessary parts, I figured I would share the parts list at this point for either feedback and/or maybe it will help someone else along the way trying to put their own goals together. There are some redundant items as I will choose between them eventually or just wasn't absolutely sure about something. I tried to start to color map the list by main categories as it was getting hard to find items in it during the process, but obviously that is not complete in this file.
I will try and post this in two different ways so that the people using a mobile device who may not be able to open the file can still see it and vice vs. so people who would like to open the Excel file for their use may do so as well. Still new to posting stuff on here so I hope it works.
Any feedback and/or suggestions is always appreciated.
 

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  • PartsList.xlsx
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Wow, I assume that either you expect a REALLY nice Christmas bonus or this is a list of all the possible parts you'll get but the list of things you'll end up getting will be much shorter, because this is basically a new car other than the body from my quick scan of it.

Whatever you end up doing, one suggestion I'd make is to add a few columns to categorize parts by assembly and subassembly. E.g. engine/pistons, trans/input shaft, etc. I have a parts spreadsheet that has multiple columns to get really granular, e.g. Drivetrain/Transaxle/Input Shaft/Bearing/Upper. Helps a lot to decide what needs replacing and with which option.

Also, don't go overboard up front. One assembly at a time, starting with the ones most in need of work. And if you have questions make sure to post them here, lots of very knowledgable and helpful experts (which I am most certainly not, but I am learning).

Good luck and keep us posted.
 
So I am planning that my situation changes in the next couple years so I may be able to start making these investments. I think I will end up needing most of these parts and probably more that I haven’t thought of as the car is basically torn down to the shell now. My goal is to build something that is quasi brand new just with a lot more power than what the factory made.
I do plan to categorize stuff much better as I said I started to colorcode by category a little bit.
Overboard is what I do LOL you should see how I build stuff. As far as one thing at a time goes, the car has been sitting for 20 years and is a shell on jackstands in my garage so at this point my plan is to put it back together in whatever manner makes it easiest to get at stuff. I.E. route the new hard brake lines before there’s a bunch of parts in the way to work around, etc.
For now it’s buy, buy, buy, save and accumulate parts aside from whatever tinkering I can do in the meantime.
 
If you really want to go all-out then go for it, and acquiring parts now is probably a good idea as many appear to be slowly being discontinued and hard to impossible to find, at least in new or decent condition. Check with the experts here as to which ones to really stock up on now.
 
Yeah I noticed that while researching for the parts list it kind of freaked me out when I came across parts that were next to impossible to find. Made me want to pull out the charge cards and start buying right away
 
Well, it depends on where you try to buy them. I'm running into this issue myself right now as I need to buy a bunch of parts for a trans rebuild I'm doing. There's Mitsubishi dealers, local, online and direct from Japan, specialist vendors such as are on this site, local and online auto parts stores like Autozone and RockAuto, general purpose vendors like Amazon and Walmart, eBay, Craigslist, etc., and of course junkyards and such. And some people buy entire cars just to raid them for parts. You can probably find most everything, but it won't always be easy or cheap or in new condition. Start buying the rarer stuff first.
 
Anything 1990 ROFL
 
So after a couple years of finally getting serious and researching, I have compiled my parts list for the build I will eventually get done. I think this list should get me 90% of the way there. Although it will take some years still to obtain all of the necessary parts, I figured I would share the parts list at this point for either feedback and/or maybe it will help someone else along the way trying to put their own goals together. There are some redundant items as I will choose between them eventually or just wasn't absolutely sure about something. I tried to start to color map the list by main categories as it was getting hard to find items in it during the process, but obviously that is not complete in this file.
I will try and post this in two different ways so that the people using a mobile device who may not be able to open the file can still see it and vice vs. so people who would like to open the Excel file for their use may do so as well. Still new to posting stuff on here so I hope it works.
Any feedback and/or suggestions is always appreciated.
Just going scanning the list quickly--there are a lot of parts on your list that are discontinued, MB881294 (and the following 5 parts down from it on your list), MD132912 (we received the last couple that Mitsubishi had about 3 months ago, and they sold in hours), MB620806 (long gone), MD728826, e-brake cables (gone through Mitsu--aftermarket units are currently out there), most/all of those cross-member pieces and suspension arms--all disco'd.
. I'm sure there are others on there as well, and yet more that will shortly be discontinued.

You also have MD749998 listed as "discontinued" , which they are not--Mitsubishi currently has about 135 in the U.S.. MD770506 is also not discontinued--Mitsu just doesn't stock them heavily anymore. MD723202, MR983368, MD707184, MF450154--also not discontinued.

Other quick notes:

Extended master/slave cylinder rods are band-aids for other issues. With everything being replaced/new, there is no reason for them, and they can actually *cause* issues at that point.

The non-ABS proportioning valves you have listed (MB699663) are for small (single piston caliper) front brakes. MB895431 is for twin-piston brakes (note: These are increasingly hard to get--we just got 4 of 10 that we ordered back in February).

I'm sure there are a lot more things on the list, but it would take quite a bit of time to go through.
 
Thanks Josh! I learn something every time I read your posts :thumb:
I didn't know about the proportioning valve difference so I will add that to a thread of mine!
Marty
 
Just going scanning the list quickly--there are a lot of parts on your list that are discontinued, MB881294 (and the following 5 parts down from it on your list), MD132912 (we received the last couple that Mitsubishi had about 3 months ago, and they sold in hours), MB620806 (long gone), MD728826, e-brake cables (gone through Mitsu--aftermarket units are currently out there), most/all of those cross-member pieces and suspension arms--all disco'd.
. I'm sure there are others on there as well, and yet more that will shortly be discontinued.

You also have MD749998 listed as "discontinued" , which they are not--Mitsubishi currently has about 135 in the U.S.. MD770506 is also not discontinued--Mitsu just doesn't stock them heavily anymore. MD723202, MR983368, MD707184, MF450154--also not discontinued.

Other quick notes:

Extended master/slave cylinder rods are band-aids for other issues. With everything being replaced/new, there is no reason for them, and they can actually *cause* issues at that point.

The non-ABS proportioning valves you have listed (MB699663) are for small (single piston caliper) front brakes. MB895431 is for twin-piston brakes (note: These are increasingly hard to get--we just got 4 of 10 that we ordered back in February).

I'm sure there are a lot more things on the list, but it would take quite a bit of time to go through.
Thanks for the information and corrections, albeit rather depressing. Not sure how I got that part number wrong. Lot's of late nights putting that list together.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Also, unless the control arms are bent, cracked or otherwise unusable, you can just remove them, remove the ball joints and bushing, clean them up and paint them, then press in new ball joints and bushings. That's what I did. Did the same with all 4 brake calipers, cross and center members, subframe, strut springs, etc. I'm really big on not replacing what can be restored to new or near-new condition, because money is kind of tight, I'm cheap, plus it just feels right with a car this old. And in many case with these cars you really don't have much of a choice. Stuff that needs to be replaced, of course, should be replaced, like bad parts, pads, rotors, cylinders, etc.
 
So I was actually going to ask that. I figured I should be able to do that but wasn't sure. As I stated in one of my original posts I had to cut most of the stuff out from underneath as the storage unit I had it in apparently was leaking and the ass never told me, so all of the undercarriage was rusted the f*** out. Will have to dig through the old parts to see what is salvageable. I remember the old Eagle dealer, yes Eagle dealer, told me back in the day the right lower control arm needed to be replaced, but who knows why they said that or if I can repurpose it. I agree I love making stuff newish again that was dead, it kinda goes with my profession as a contractor. I do want to make absolutely sure that the foundation of this car is 100% though. There's not point in trying to control that much power without making sure of that right?
 
Well as I wrote the big exception is parts that aren't intact, solid, proper and uncompromised. Anything like that you throw out or use as a paperweight or makeshift tool. But if it's just some scratches, surface rust and minor pitting, I don't see why it can't be restored. As for the frame, you're probably going to want to get under there (make sure it's safe!), clean it up as best you can, and decide if it's still structurally sound, and have a pro take a look if you're not sure. I imagine that some kinds of damage can be fixed, by welding on new metal, but I'm no expert.

Your list is extensive and I think it would be cool to check off parts of it by restoring the old parts. In many cases you won't even have a choice. It'll take longer, but I think you'll enjoy it and feel better about it in the end. Obvious wear parts like bushings, ball joints, plugs, lock nuts, bad wires, etc., you replace.
 
I definitely will where I can. And the unibody is legit. I was meaning not sure how much damage I did to all the parts removing and/or cutting them out where I couldn't get them to break loose with impacts.
It is very extensive, and I know I can get it driving down the road again without some of the stuff on there, like racing seats, roll cages, nitrous, frontline fab bling, etc. I bet I add to that list along the way as I come across things too..
 
Ah, so you're going the hot rod tuning route? No wonder your list is so long, and I wish you well. Myself, I just want to restore it more or less to original shape, with a few modest upgrades here and there like poly bushings and a K&N air filter. I'm the original owner (yes, of a '92!), and want to get it back to how it drove when I first bought it, with maybe slightly more oomph just to make this fun.

But, if you're concerned about damage, either have a pro look at it, or take lots of photos and post them here in your build thread. Folks will chime in.
 
That's awesome. I'm the second owner. I have the paperwork the guy who bought it got from the dealer when new. Hot Rod? I guess.
I just want it how I think they should have built it originally. As awesome as they were, but better, with 500+ HP. Not too much to ask IMO.
Will do with the parts!
 
That's awesome. I'm the second owner. I have the paperwork the guy who bought it got from the dealer when new. Hot Rod? I guess.
I just want it how I think they should have built it originally. As awesome as they were, but better, with 500+ HP. Not too much to ask IMO.
Will do with the parts!
500HP? Wow, impressive. But, make sure the rest if the car will support it, especially the trans and suspension. I'm pretty sure that a stock trans will break with this much power from what I've read. You'll also need to upgrade the clutch and maybe flywheel.

I hope you know what you're doing. I certainly wouldn't. Good luck. And read Paul's post. Excellent advice. If you don't approach this methodically, you'll be sorry and things will be a lot more difficult than if you had.
 
Correct a parts list is not a goal list but in my case they directly co-exist. The car is completely torn down to the body basically and needs a complete rebuild. If you read my previous post and go through the parts list you will see I have not just jumped in here. I am aware of all of the things that were just stated. I have spent years reading the do's and don'ts. (Not just online, actual literature.)
There is no budget. There is no timeframe. This is a lifelong goal. If I die before I get if finished, dig a bigger hole and put me in it. I never plan on selling it or getting any money back out of it. I was hesitant to ever begin posting anything before I had all the parts and building the damn thing. I have approached this from nothing but a project management perspective, I am a GC, hence why it's taken me so many years to decide on a path to take.
What my goals are is something that is as reliable as possible with something this finnicky and finely tuned which is why I ultimately decided not to stroke it. Run on 93 octane, for the nights I want to take the old lady out to dinner with it or country drive, yet have the capability to run race gas if I decide to play at the track on an occasional weekend. The rest of the time she will sit in the garage and keep Eleanor company. Don't really want to get into the E85 I don't think. Yes I do need to try and keep the AC as I live in Florida and the car will be useless other than straight track time without it.
 
Correct a parts list is not a goal list but in my case they directly co-exist. The car is completely torn down to the body basically and needs a complete rebuild. If you read my previous post and go through the parts list you will see I have not just jumped in here. I am aware of all of the things that were just stated. I have spent years reading the do's and don'ts. (Not just online, actual literature.)
There is no budget. There is no timeframe. This is a lifelong goal. If I die before I get if finished, dig a bigger hole and put me in it. I never plan on selling it or getting any money back out of it. I was hesitant to ever begin posting anything before I had all the parts and building the damn thing. I have approached this from nothing but a project management perspective, I am a GC, hence why it's taken me so many years to decide on a path to take.
What my goals are is something that is as reliable as possible with something this finnicky and finely tuned which is why I ultimately decided not to stroke it. Run on 93 octane, for the nights I want to take the old lady out to dinner with it or country drive, yet have the capability to run race gas if I decide to play at the track on an occasional weekend. The rest of the time she will sit in the garage and keep Eleanor company. Don't really want to get into the E85 I don't think. Yes I do need to try and keep the AC as I live in Florida and the car will be useless other than straight track time without it.
This is kind of where my build thread addresses some things. I'm all for modding your car any way you see fit. I have just seen too many people mod the cars and then don't like them as they truly didn't understand what some things did or why. This is very very true of some of the more subjective areas of noise vibration and harshness. Everybody wants to get urethane or solid motor mounts and remove the balance shafts. If this is a cruiser car or worse you drive it daily in my opinion you will hate it. My car has been and will always be a street car. No track use with the possible exception of a curiosity run at the local dragstrip. As such it will not have solid motor mounts and I will keep balance shafts (might change that but I doubt it).
Your list is fine but I saw a lot of unnecessary things on it unless you just want to spend the money on new stuff, assuming you can find it. As a contractor I'm sure you can appreciate systemic planning on individual systems. Naturally there are susbsystems within groups but for myself I would say the following.
Engine/turbo
Drivetrain
suspension
braking
Naturally these are broad terms but my point is most of us don't need the be all end all of all systems to make a goal. If you absolutely want to overbuild the car by all means some stuff it won't hurt and there is no trade off except for money. For most of us money is important but not everybody. If I had unlimited budget I probably wouldn't build a dsm, I'd build a 911. It isn't that I don't love dsm, I just know it's limitations. Yes dsm can do amazing things but it's always a trade off.
To be blunt, I've seen no comfortable daily driven 700hp DSMs. I've seen lots of 911s that do this, to the point your mother could take it for a spin and wouldn't know it if driven sanely.
 
I agree, but coming from a comparatively much less knowledgeable perspective. But I do have a degree from engineering school and an IT background so I'm not entirely unfamiliar with working systematically and methodically and putting goals ahead of solutions. The solutions will follow from the goals.

That said, when I bought my Talon way back in '92 I had initially considered buying a used 911 for not much more. But I decided that a 911 was way too much car for me at the time and a good used one would likely cost quite a bit more than a new Talon, plus the maintenance and repair costs would likely be pretty steep.

Never looked back, although if I ever can afford a Porsche, I might just go for it. But at this point I'm hoping that my next car's an EV. ICE is not the future.
 
ter a couple years of finally getting serious and researching, I have compiled my parts list for the build I will eventually get done. I think this list should get me 90% of the way there. Although it will take some years still to obtain all of the necessary parts, I figured I would share the parts list at this point for either feedback and/or maybe it will help someone else along the way trying to put their own goals together. There are some redundant items as I will choose between them eventually or just wasn't absolutely sure about something. I tried to start to color map the list by main categories as it was getting hard to find items in it during the process, but obviously that is not complete in this file.
I will try and post this in two different ways so that the people using a mobile device who may not be able to open the file can still see it and vice vs. so people who would like to open the Excel file for their use may do so as well. Still new to posting stuff on here so I hope it works.
Any feedback and/or suggestions is always appreciated.
A parts list is not a goals list.
My advice is tell us what you want the car to do, objectively, and we can assist from there.

I suggest this post. Yes I wrote it.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/project-management-and-building-a-dsm.421705/
So after a couple years of finally getting serious and researching, I have compiled my parts list for the build I will eventually get done. I think this list should get me 90% of the way there. Although it will take some years still to obtain all of the necessary parts, I figured I would share the parts list at this point for either feedback and/or maybe it will help someone else along the way trying to put their own goals together. There are some redundant items as I will choose between them eventually or just wasn't absolutely sure about something. I tried to start to color map the list by main categories as it was getting hard to find items in it during the process, but obviously that is not complete in this file.
I will try and post this in two different ways so that the people using a mobile device who may not be able to open the file can still see it and vice vs. so people who would like to open the Excel file for their use may do so as well. Still new to posting stuff on here so I hope it works.
Any feedback and/or suggestions is always appreciated.
Can't seem to edit this correctly. Reply is to OP
 
This is kind of where my build thread addresses some things. I'm all for modding your car any way you see fit. I have just seen too many people mod the cars and then don't like them as they truly didn't understand what some things did or why. This is very very true of some of the more subjective areas of noise vibration and harshness. Everybody wants to get urethane or solid motor mounts and remove the balance shafts. If this is a cruiser car or worse you drive it daily in my opinion you will hate it. My car has been and will always be a street car. No track use with the possible exception of a curiosity run at the local dragstrip. As such it will not have solid motor mounts and I will keep balance shafts (might change that but I doubt it).
Your list is fine but I saw a lot of unnecessary things on it unless you just want to spend the money on new stuff, assuming you can find it. As a contractor I'm sure you can appreciate systemic planning on individual systems. Naturally there are susbsystems within groups but for myself I would say the following.
Engine/turbo
Drivetrain
suspension
braking
Naturally these are broad terms but my point is most of us don't need the be all end all of all systems to make a goal. If you absolutely want to overbuild the car by all means some stuff it won't hurt and there is no trade off except for money. For most of us money is important but not everybody. If I had unlimited budget I probably wouldn't build a dsm, I'd build a 911. It isn't that I don't love dsm, I just know it's limitations. Yes dsm can do amazing things but it's always a trade off.
To be blunt, I've seen no comfortable daily driven 700hp DSMs. I've seen lots of 911s that do this, to the point your mother could take it for a spin and wouldn't know it if driven sanely.
So I was concerned about the solid mounts and urethane bushing for that reason, but ultimately put them in there for performance over comfort as this is in no way going to be a DD. But I'm not really excited about the idea of it chattering the teeth out of my passenger or myself either. I fell in love with these cars for certain reasons and that would not be one of them. What do you think about doing either the motor mounts or the bushings instead of both as a compromise? I have no idea how one vs. the other would feel. May just wind up being a trial and error aspect of the build...
What do you know about the GSC race balance shaft on STM? Was looking at that as an option other than a delete kit for the same reasons..
As far as groups go every group needs an overhaul so I'm just going to go through them methodically as I can one by one.
I get what you're saying there but like I said, I fell in love with these cars for many different reasons, not Porsches. My brother in law has a 911 and I hate driving it. I'm just too tall for those cars and they are way too cramped for my body. I haven't been able to stretch my legs out properly since I drove my DSM. I don't know it's just set up perfectly for me when it comes to ergonomics.
I know she'll be a bit mouthy and have an attitude at times with this build, but hey, anything worth having is worth a little arguing or fighting for. Honestly, I kind of welcome that, I've been talking to her for over 20 years now with no response, so any response good or bad would probably be welcome. :)
 
Just going scanning the list quickly--there are a lot of parts on your list that are discontinued, MB881294 (and the following 5 parts down from it on your list), MD132912 (we received the last couple that Mitsubishi had about 3 months ago, and they sold in hours), MB620806 (long gone), MD728826, e-brake cables (gone through Mitsu--aftermarket units are currently out there), most/all of those cross-member pieces and suspension arms--all disco'd.
Thank you for this info. I know it's long but any other info would be appreciated. What are you using to check part numbers so quickly and know what available? I cross referenced with the ASA program and online scouring and thought I was pretty accurate. Who knows, like I said lots of late nights.
. I'm sure there are others on there as well, and yet more that will shortly be discontinued.

You also have MD749998 listed as "discontinued" , which they are not--Mitsubishi currently has about 135 in the U.S.. MD770506 is also not discontinued--Mitsu just doesn't stock them heavily anymore. MD723202, MR983368, MD707184, MF450154--also not discontinued.

Other quick notes:

Extended master/slave cylinder rods are band-aids for other issues. With everything being replaced/new, there is no reason for them, and they can actually *cause* issues at that point.

The non-ABS proportioning valves you have listed (MB699663) are for small (single piston caliper) front brakes. MB895431 is for twin-piston brakes (note: These are increasingly hard to get--we just got 4 of 10 that we ordered back in February).

I'm sure there are a lot more things on the list, but it would take quite a bit of time to go through.
 
So I was concerned about the solid mounts and urethane bushing for that reason, but ultimately put them in there for performance over comfort as this is in no way going to be a DD. But I'm not really excited about the idea of it chattering the teeth out of my passenger or myself either. I fell in love with these cars for certain reasons and that would not be one of them. What do you think about doing either the motor mounts or the bushings instead of both as a compromise? I have no idea how one vs. the other would feel. May just wind up being a trial and error aspect of the build...
What do you know about the GSC race balance shaft on STM? Was looking at that as an option other than a delete kit for the same reasons..
As far as groups go every group needs an overhaul so I'm just going to go through them methodically as I can one by one.
I get what you're saying there but like I said, I fell in love with these cars for many different reasons, not Porsches. My brother in law has a 911 and I hate driving it. I'm just too tall for those cars and they are way too cramped for my body. I haven't been able to stretch my legs out properly since I drove my DSM. I don't know it's just set up perfectly for me when it comes to ergonomics.
I know she'll be a bit mouthy and have an attitude at times with this build, but hey, anything worth having is worth a little arguing or fighting for. Honestly, I kind of welcome that, I've been talking to her for over 20 years now with no response, so any response good or bad would probably be welcome. :)
Which bushings are you talking about? Suspension bushings?
As for motor mounts I won't run urethane inserts or the aftermarket full replacements and certainly not anything more than that like totally solid. The only way I personally will run urethane motor mounts is if I'm forced to because of part availability. I'm already stockpiling stuff that I know won't be available later. I've been doing that for the last 15 years. 1g stuff is very hard so I switched to a 2g platform and it's almost as bad.
Regarding the GSC shaft it would feel just like no balance shafts as there is no weight. There is some debate on how the oil pump will work without shafts so that solution was born out of those debates I believe. No weights but support for the oil pump vs a stub shaft.
I've never wanted a high horsepower monster. Just want something fun to drive. I will say it was a lot more fun years ago when people couldn't just buy horsepower like now. Mustangs weren't all that fast in the 90s and easy easy to roast from a standstill. It's not that way anymore.
Still pretty easy to catch somebody offguard but todays cars have a lot more power.
 
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