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1992 Colt AWD Space Runner RVR EVO

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damn it. i just killed my 14b. i was doing underhood inspections and found a boostleak at my turbo. so i take off my intake pipe to check for shaft play, and its all good aside from some fin sandblasting. put it back together and went for a test drive. hit 16 psi and then the turbo quit. no boost and strange sound. went home, took off air intake pipe, and no fins left at all.
turns out i sucked in the 14b rubber reducer ring.
so 14b is dead and now i decide if i continue with a rebuilt 14b or go big16g. i have all the parts already. hmmm.
i decided to rebuild the 14b. i put a new compressor wheel on and took off and cleaned out all my intercooler pipes and intercooler. put it back together and so far so good.
 
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I have inspired a friend to build a LRV as well, and he managed to source out quite a few local vans by putting a wanted ad on kijiji. People started responding to his message trying to sell him their vans!
Anyways, he bought 2 for pretty cheap. Both awd autos. The first one he bought for $300 because it had a transfercase malfunction and the driveshaft came out of the tcase at 80kph on the highway and it took out the fuel lines and brake lines. 140000kms and good shape bodywise, but wrecked driveshaft and tcase and brakes lines and fuel lines.

Second one he bought was for $700 and its running, but he ended up helping out his mom by giving it to her(she loves it). He was interested in stealing the driveshaft and tcase and make hers fwd. I did some research and found you need a welded center diff or a vce to make an awd a fwd. Went searching to find a price and i cant find one for sale anywhere...
He also bought a 4g63t Colt swap to get a engine and wiring setup. It is currently sitting in my back driveway. 92 red sedan. Still fwd with oem colt trans in it. PO did a decent job putting it together 6 bolt 1990 engine. It still needed way too much work to make it RIGHT, but too much rust and it is incomplete so we are hoping to gut it this weekend to start getting parts together to build another 4g63t AWD Colt RVR.

Is there anything special to know about the auto trans in the van when you hook up a 4g63 to it?
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Recently i have been working on under hood cooling mods, such as cold air boxes and re installing factory rad fans and stock rad fan wiring to free up ecmlink outputs for other mods. I wanted to get rid of the slimline style fans i have been using and use a oem part that works better.
I ran into a problem on my galant when i was installing the stock rad fan temp sensor into my aftermarket galant aluminium rad. the thread and hole size were wrong on the rad. I found the sensor would thread into the thermostat housing, so i mounted it there and wired it up.
The effect this had on the cooling system was great. The sensor makes the rad fan switch on at 91 and switch off at 88. No more 95+ degree rad fan operation range.
 
This is awesome and you got your buddy into one!

I've had a 5 speed awd parked for a year, just bought a 2g gsx to swap in. I've never worked on a DSM before, this is my first.

Is it better to add wires to my 4G64 harness which is distributor ignition or swap over the 2g harness? I don't mind extra work I don't mind pulling the harness if that's better.
 
your going to have to make a hybrid wiring harness out of the 4g64 harness and the 2g 4g63 harness. Most of the harness will be 4g63 wires, but there are a few 4g64 wire that gotta stay. I wish i would have documented how i did it, just to blueprint out how i did the wiring for my own knowledge... Whoops.
 
your going to have to make a hybrid wiring harness out of the 4g64 harness and the 2g 4g63 harness. Most of the harness will be 4g63 wires, but there are a few 4g64 wire that gotta stay. I wish i would have documented how i did it, just to blueprint out how i did the wiring for my own knowledge... Whoops.


I figured. I found an fsm for the eagle on ebay and I've seen pdf's for the dsm online. Thank you for the info. The bumper looks awesome
 
I recently had to get an out of province inspection on my highly modified minivan. I spent a few months slowly working on it to make it appear to be stock looking, and the performance systems i tried to make look as professional as possible. I had to get a new windshield for it as mine had a crack near the bottom. Very hard to find a windshield for this vehicle! 350$ installed. Nice and clear now.
Van failed 1st inspection due to passengerside ball joint and power windows not working? fixed the ball joint by swapping in a oem control arm off of a parts van, and fixed the power windows by plugging in the door switch. Took it in for reinspection the next business day and it passed!
The shop i took it to was impressed that i had installed a 4g63 in the van, the mechanic was aware of the existance of the legendary 4g63t. They didn't even mention on the inspection that the van was highly modified for power and performance, with aftermarket -6an fuel lines and 3" exhaust, FMIC, modified front bumper, ETC....
So it's back on the road doing daily driving service for me as i try to figure out what to do with retiring my galant.
 
love it. Can you go into a little more detail on the temp sensor mod? Is your current rad factory? It looks to be. I am hoping my factory rad and fans are capable once I get the 4G63T running.
 
I did use the factory radiator, it works good, but the A/C condensor fan interferes with the turbo exhaust manifold just slightly. I had to remove the driver side rad mount and tip tie the rad tighter to the front of the van to make it work but if you are not running A/C then you can ditch that fan and there is no issues with clearance.
 
The temp sensor mod i did was i took out the vacuum thermo switch that is located on the 1g lower thermostat housing. Then I replaced it with the thermo sensor that is located at the bottom of the radiator. I extended the wires and plugged it back in and it made the fan activate at a lower temperature, as the rad fan activating sensor is now located in a hotter part of the cooling system.
 
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I used port #2 in the picture to install the rad fan sensor. I removed the emission control thermo valve.
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This is the sensor I removed and moved to the thermostat housing. The plug that attaches to this sensor remained connected after I moved it. I think the wires reached. Maybe not... I can't remember.
This made the rad fan turn on once the engine reached about 91 degrees and turned off the fan at 88 degrees.
 
The temp sensor mod i did was i took out the vacuum thermo switch that is located on the 1g lower thermostat housing. Then I replaced it with the thermo sensor that is located at the bottom of the radiator. I extended the wires and plugged it back in and it made the fan activate at a lower temperature, as the rad fan activating sensor is now located in a hotter part of the cooling system.

great, thank you. Makes sense now.
 
I am going to start posting about things i have hauled in my turbo minivan. The 4g63t rarely is seen as a utility engine, probably due to the mighty max never receiving a 4g63t oem. The minivans typically came with a 4g64 2.4l for torque down low in the rpms, and the 4g64 was common in mitsubishi forklifts.

I dont have any pictures of the past hauls except for my profile picture, I will try to document future hauls with pictures.

6 - 4' x 8' 3/8" plywood and 8 - 2x4 stubs 8' long - tied to roof rack.

4 - 10' 10 gauge stainless steel channel - tied to roof rack

1 king sized mattress - tied to roof rack

1 full sized rain barrel - fit right in the back, didn't have to take the seat out.

Weekly family grocery trips - all of it fits in the back. And mom and two kids in childs seats. And the subwoofer box is always in the back. Lots of room.

2 disassembled complete 4g63 engines taken to machine shop - before the 4g63t swap, it all fit in the back cargo area.

The van actually has a better ride when there is some weight in the back of it activating the heavy springs. Its my favorite ride of the 3 4g63t cars i have, but its is almost too sleeper. It gets ZERO respect on the streets. Its not modern looking enough, so people discredit it immediatly. And when people get beat by it they dont like to admit it.
 
Awesome. Love to find one of these for a daily.

Idk if you sorted out your VC eliminator situation, but I had a shop cut and weld mine. Works awesome in fwd mode, awd I'm welded CD and VC, its a pain it tighter corners and the fuel mileage sucks, but its tough. Im also on a de-powered rack, and the mileage is prolly tune related, but I do plan to go with a 4 spider in the future.

If it's just for a fwd conversion, a welded VC should work fine, just make sure the weld job is quality. you have the option of doing the VC or the CD, personally id just stick with the VC as its easier to get to, and welding the center can be screwed up easily without a jig or spare trans to do it in (ask me how I know).
 
I am thrilled with my summit wagon. When i first heard of them it was a must have for me. i searched nationwide for over a month before buying one that was a nine hour drive one way. i have three kids 7/10/12 and this vehicle fits right in with my family needs as well as being just a ball to drive. The chassis is unique in the mitsubishi line. an absolute home run of a vehicle. i actually sold a mint evo 4 so I could do work on my summit instead. I dont regret the decision. When my auto project is done I am going to be tempted to do an evo9 mivec drivetrain swap version of one to replace my evo 1.
 
If I understand this correctly, you plan to put a evo 9 motor and drivetrain setup in a Expo LRV? Why not!!
yes one of these with evo 9 drivetrain would be amazing. The evo uses 3.3 ratio rear. so the rear end can be made to work pretty easy. would just need to be flipped upside down. that would switch offset to passenger side engine setup. I would use evo 4 engine and trans swap. then use the evo 9 head. wala. ultimate RVR
 
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