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1990 Eclipse GSX

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Hiroshi, I'm curious to know if you needed to make any tweaks to the crankshaft.

When I first started thinking about the Eagle 94mm crank, I was reading in EvoM that there needed to be something done to keep the oilway plugs from vibrating out. This was a problem with old Alfas too, but here we are about a thousand years later LOL

Then on my car, English Racing said they were going to do "something" to it. On the invoice it just says "ER spec 94mm Eagle crank. Mods to make it better". But I don't know what they did. So I've been curious about it ever since.
Hi Gary,

As for the plugs on the crank, no I don't do anything for the crank except I made sure that the plugs are tightened enough and the crank is with their ESP Armor finish. I always use new eagle crank but I have had no experience that the plug gets loose. But I modified the block side since this is with aluminum rods.

As for English Racing spec crank, I don't know what exactly they did on your crank. If they did some thing, I guess that could be the oil feed chamfering or/and remove some material from counter weights and re-balance or so.

This is a great thread you have going here!


Gary
Thank you!
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Did you set the studs 15mm out passed the girdle? Maybe I forgot to do that with mine when I test fitted it.
No, I don't really do anything special. I installed all the studs the same way into block. The pic above is after torqued.

I'm against cutting off that 2nd mount because especially without balance shafts, I'd rather not take the risk of having the vibration crack the pickup tube
You are right. More chance to get cracked by vibrations if it doesn't have the support bracket and you would lose the oil pressure. But the most concerned moment is when you hit the oil pan. If it doesn't have the support bracket, the crack would be much more at the pickup part or flange part.
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
KDN/Boostin Performance H-Pattern Shifter
Boostin KDN.jpg


Ikeya I-Pattern Sequen-Shifter
Ikeya.jpg


 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Aha, that was my next question - the shifters!
Are you liking them? Last I knew the Ikeya is the one you are using. Did you actually use the Boostin shifter for awhile too?
What comments would you make about them so far?
Yes I like them both but two different things. As you knew I was using the Ikeya shifter. I made it work and I was using it for a while on the streets. I could use it manually but still needed a little bit more adjustment to make it smoother and a bit more work for the air shifter setup.
This one year I have been using the boostin shifter with a strain gauge knob. Working very well, it allows me to shift really fast without using clutch or letting the gas pedal off, even at high rpm. Only some cons on the boostin shifter is, for '90, the shifter base bolt parttern didn't fit very well, so I needed to enlarge the holes a little bit. And the 2-3-2 lockout got broken, (but I could fix it in my way by myself) and some linkage bolts get loose often.
 

We're on Boost

15+ Year Contributor
1,602
430
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
Did you need to drill a hole in the shift lever on the trans like they show in the installation video, here? I guess you would have to otherwise you couldn't use the new bracket they give you to hold that end of the cables, because they wouldn't be aimed right. And apparently their shifter won't stroke the cable enough to work with a 3.2 inch lever arm. So you gotta have a 2.5 inch lever arm.
It just seems a little funky to me, having to shorten the lever arm and having a bolt-on pin there. But I guess if it works and it holds up for a long time it's ok. Does it seem ok to you?

Your 3 to 2 lockout getting broken, that seems pretty funky too. Man-o-man this stuff!

This link should start you at 3:35 in the video:

 
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DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Did you need to drill a hole in the shift lever on the trans like they show in the installation video, here? I guess you would have to otherwise you couldn't use the new bracket they give you to hold that end of the cables, because they wouldn't be aimed right. And apparently their shifter won't stroke the cable enough to work with a 3.2 inch lever arm. So you gotta have a 2.5 inch lever arm.
It just seems a little funky to me, having to shorten the lever arm and having a bolt-on pin there. But I guess if it works and it holds up for a long time it's ok. Does it seem ok to you?

Your 3 to 2 lockout getting broken, that seems pretty funky too. Man-o-man this stuff!

This link should start you at 3:35 in the video:

Boostin doesn't explain it in the video that that's actually for 91-94. The arm they are using in the video is from 91-94 longer one. The 90 arm is shorter. Actually there is no place to drill for the pin that come with the shifter. Mine has 2.5" center to center distance, so I didn't cut nor drill, just installed like the stock. On 90, only the way to install it as Boostin said is to cut down the factory pin and drill a hole for the pin.
There is some angle on the bracket, that's why Boostin is putting the pin at the back side of arm. I am hooking on the upper side of arm like the stock way. It causes a little curve but so far I don't have any issues yet. Shifting very smoothly.
DSC_3894.JPG

DSC_3893.JPG
 

We're on Boost

15+ Year Contributor
1,602
430
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
I'll be darned. So many changes between 1990 and later.
Yeah I checked mine which is 91-94 and it is about 3.2 inches.
It's nice having a heim joint on the end of the cable. That should help when there's a little error in the up-down angle there.
Thanks for those pics Hiroshi!
 

We're on Boost

15+ Year Contributor
1,602
430
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
Hiroshi, I've never had one of those Kiggly girdles in my hand to look at, but my engine has one.
I'm curious to know if it is made from steel. Is it steel of some kind?
I would think steel, rather than aluminum, not only for strength but also to match the thermal expansion coefficient of the block more closely.

But my Nissan neighbor, who is rebuilding his RB26 engine, is getting a girdle for his block and he says that girdle is aluminum. I'm thinking he might be wrong about that. He is putting the HKS stroker kit into it (crank, rods, pistons) which takes it from 2.6 to 2.8 liters, and the HKS oil pump.
Anyway, is our Kiggly girdle steel? And do you think my neighbor Josh might have the wrong info about the girdle for his engine?
 

Anfurnyy

Supporting Member
384
308
Jul 4, 2020
Rapid City, South_Dakota
Hiroshi, I've never had one of those Kiggly girdles in my hand to look at, but my engine has one.
I'm curious to know if it is made from steel. Is it steel of some kind?
I would think steel, rather than aluminum, not only for strength but also to match the thermal expansion coefficient of the block more closely.

But my Nissan neighbor, who is rebuilding his RB26 engine, is getting a girdle for his block and he says that girdle is aluminum. I'm thinking he might be wrong about that. He is putting the HKS stroker kit into it (crank, rods, pistons) which takes it from 2.6 to 2.8 liters, and the HKS oil pump.
Anyway, is our Kiggly girdle steel? And do you think my neighbor Josh might have the wrong info about the girdle for his engine?
I definitely believe that our girdles are steel. I would be surprised if a supportive structure for the bottom end is a aluminum but there are aluminum connecting rods so it's possible
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Hiroshi, I've never had one of those Kiggly girdles in my hand to look at, but my engine has one.
I'm curious to know if it is made from steel. Is it steel of some kind?
I would think steel, rather than aluminum, not only for strength but also to match the thermal expansion coefficient of the block more closely.

But my Nissan neighbor, who is rebuilding his RB26 engine, is getting a girdle for his block and he says that girdle is aluminum. I'm thinking he might be wrong about that. He is putting the HKS stroker kit into it (crank, rods, pistons) which takes it from 2.6 to 2.8 liters, and the HKS oil pump.
Anyway, is our Kiggly girdle steel? And do you think my neighbor Josh might have the wrong info about the girdle for his engine?
Gary, yes it's steel. And I am not so sure what your neighbor is referring to but maybe he is talking about like the one in the link? I think it's aluminum.
 

We're on Boost

15+ Year Contributor
1,602
430
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
Gary, yes it's steel. And I am not so sure what your neighbor is referring to but maybe he is talking about like the one in the link? I think it's aluminum.

Thanks!
That video made me chuckle a few times. The Australian RB guys are usually kind of funny so there was that right away. The cracked block he showed - my neighbor has a dead RB26 block that was given to him by somebody and it is cracked exactly in the same place that the PRP guy showed in the video. The block that my neighbor took out of his own car seems perfect though.
Apparently when the PRP guy says "alloy" he means aluminum alloy. The girdle sure looks like aluminum and it rings like 6061 T6 or such when he bumps it.
I thought it was interesting at the end where he shows the integrated main cap brace and it sounds like it's only the prototype that is aluminum and the real version will be steel.
Well I'm glad our girdle is steel!
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
Thanks!
That video made me chuckle a few times. The Australian RB guys are usually kind of funny so there was that right away. The cracked block he showed - my neighbor has a dead RB26 block that was given to him by somebody and it is cracked exactly in the same place that the PRP guy showed in the video. The block that my neighbor took out of his own car seems perfect though.
Apparently when the PRP guy says "alloy" he means aluminum alloy. The girdle sure looks like aluminum and it rings like 6061 T6 or such when he bumps it.
I thought it was interesting at the end where he shows the integrated main cap brace and it sounds like it's only the prototype that is aluminum and the real version will be steel.
Well I'm glad our girdle is steel!
I am not a Nissan guy, so I don't know everything about. But as far as I know there is variation of durability on the stock RB26 blocks by production time, and actually there are reinforced RB26 blocks (thicker material on the weak cracking spots) for high power engines that were sold by Nissan Nismo. Some of my customers in Japan own performance shops and they are specialized for Nissan and are building RB and SR engines often (most of them are for circuit or drift racing). They sometimes mention that they use N1 block which is the reinforced one. I have never been told that they use some sort of brace. So I imagine this brace would especially be beneficial for non-reinforced blocks or for very high power drag racing engines.
 

We're on Boost

15+ Year Contributor
1,602
430
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
They sometimes mention that they use N1 block which is the reinforced one.

My Nissan neighbor got to see an engine back in May that appears to be a brand new "33N1" in a warehouse here called Trust Kikaku GT Cars. It's complete and came in a box labeled "Nissan Group Genuine Parts". I don't get it how there can be a brand new one of these things in 2022. My neighbor and his mechanic friend both asked a couple times about that and as near as I could hear got nothing much for an answer. Funny stuff. Wish I understood it better.
Here's a link right to where they take the lid off the box. My neighbor is the guy running the camera and making the video (uploader "JDM Right Hand Drive"):
 

DSMPT

DSM Wiseman
2,178
1,762
Jun 12, 2014
Japan / Mexico, Arizona
I don't get it how there can be a brand new one of these things in 2022.
Because the N1 block was already discontinued-ish once before but Nissan accepted owner's requests and they started to re-produce many parts a few years ago. The N1 block was one of the reproduced parts.
 
Last edited:

We're on Boost

15+ Year Contributor
1,602
430
Aug 25, 2007
Seattle area, Washington
Dijon Tool pipes.. I should have kept those

Hiroshi - I was just looking at a new member thread, user I21chardh, who has a really nice looking blow-through GM MAF setup on his car (pic on his Specs and Photos page) and I think he is going to take it off the car, convert to SD. Post #14 in this thread is where he says this:
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/new-to-dsm-denver-help.541917/#post-153867682

Anyway, not sure why you wish you would have kept the Dejon pipes but if you are looking for somebody selling something similar, this person might be!
I had a GM MAF on my car at one time and I always wanted to convert it to blow-through but never got that far with it before having everything totally redone by English Racing in 2015-2016.
 
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