1722/2000 burn victim rescue/sleeper

[92AWDHX40]

Nice I'm running hks 272 too but I will swap our for something more aggressive. Looking great. Gotta redo all my rear suspension stuff too bushings who while nine similar to your set up when she's all done gonna find another shell too when she's do e she's gonna be a beast on the street.

 

[95REGF150]

Just read the whole thread start to finish. Got to say man awesome job! Keep it coming with updates cant wait to see this thing rip off some 11 second times.

 

[GSXftw]

Nice I'm running hks 272 too but I will swap our for something more aggressive. Looking great. Gotta redo all my rear suspension stuff too bushings who while nine similar to your set up when she's all done gonna find another shell too when she's do e she's gonna be a beast on the street.

Thanks man! Ill do the driveline stuff soon and then it should be all sorted I think. Sounds sweet though good luck!

Just read the whole thread start to finish. Got to say man awesome job! Keep it coming with updates cant wait to see this thing rip off some 11 second times.

Yeah Its becoming quite the little book . Definitely didnt expect it to go this way since when I got it was planning on high 12s on stock drivetrain, but oh well!

"sleeper"... :rofl: So yeah until I get the cooling issues under control and get a hood on it, I dont think Im pulling anything over anyone.


The pump gas tune is going well... I may have to go stiffer on the wastegate setup, but thats mostly for the future E85 plans.

 

[GSXftw]

So I was maxed on boost at the 20psi so I pulled the wastegate off, thinking I needed more spring, saw this plug with the thread sealant on it was missing, so I had a big boost leak at the wastegate that was venting pressure at the top of the spring. I didnt change springs just fixed the leak, getting a hang of the settings for this new way of plumbing it. Turned up the duty cycle to 50%, and it climbed up to 30 psi before I got out of it. Realized duty cycle works backwards now and boost climbs with less duty cycle, so turned it up to 76%, and saw a sweet 22 psi and got the AFR right.


After header wrapping, flipping the fan blades to be cupped the correct way for pushers, it helped with temp but still ran a little hot. Have been doing most of my tuning at night, got the pump gas tune dialed very nice. I threw the Walbro 450 in on tue night


I was all set to hit the track with actually a little bit of breathing room, and unfortunately I had a family medical issue spring up. Everything got put on hold for the week, and now I can finally get back into the swing of things. I did some night tuning, after doing some 5k launch control launches and realizing the mass of the 11lb fw vs the car, which btw is between 3250-3300 w driver and a 1/4 tank, isnt enough to get it outta the hole. I turned on the antilag and gave her the whip. Drove quite a bit and the only issue I ran into was the Vband on the dp kept heating up and leaking past. I gooped it up with hi temp silicone, and its been fine now. I absolutely love the way the car feels on the highway! Between the 55W HIDs, the evo III 5th, the suspension, the thing does awesome and really turns some heads! I still havent gotten a system in it yet, but the bt speaker is working for now


So Im gonna head to the car, pump the gas out, put in the E85, turn up the boost, tune it out, and hit the track, wish me luck!

 

[jamel16]

So I was maxed on boost at the 20psi so I pulled the wastegate off, thinking I needed more spring, saw this plug with the thread sealant on it was missing, so I had a big boost leak at the wastegate that was venting pressure at the top of the spring. I didnt change springs just fixed the leak, getting a hang of the settings for this new way of plumbing it. Turned up the duty cycle to 50%, and it climbed up to 30 psi before I got out of it. Realized duty cycle works backwards now and boost climbs with less duty cycle, so turned it up to 76%, and saw a sweet 22 psi and got the AFR right.
View attachment 309225

After header wrapping, flipping the fan blades to be cupped the correct way for pushers, it helped with temp but still ran a little hot. Have been doing most of my tuning at night, got the pump gas tune dialed very nice. I threw the Walbro 450 in on tue night
View attachment 309226

I was all set to hit the track with actually a little bit of breathing room, and unfortunately I had a family medical issue spring up. Everything got put on hold for the week, and now I can finally get back into the swing of things. I did some night tuning, after doing some 5k launch control launches and realizing the mass of the 11lb fw vs the car, which btw is between 3250-3300 w driver and a 1/4 tank, isnt enough to get it outta the hole. I turned on the antilag and gave her the whip. Drove quite a bit and the only issue I ran into was the Vband on the dp kept heating up and leaking past. I gooped it up with hi temp silicone, and its been fine now. I absolutely love the way the car feels on the highway! Between the 55W HIDs, the evo III 5th, the suspension, the thing does awesome and really turns some heads! I still havent gotten a system in it yet, but the bt speaker is working for now
View attachment 309227

So Im gonna head to the car, pump the gas out, put in the E85, turn up the boost, tune it out, and hit the track, wish me luck!

Looks really good man

 

[GSXftw]

Well her first track day went great. I took the feed line off, pumped out the gas, put in E85, and just like my 1G would it put me to E45 with the remaining stuff in the tank. I turned up boost slightly, and headed to the track. Here is a vid of the nights events.

The car was around 25 psi the first run, and 30 psi for the second run. I noticed a small bit of spray coming up on the windshield, I thought it might be catch can or something, but it turned out to be fuel. The 90* fitting on the feed line was leaking where it pivots. It wasnt enough to leak all the time, just in boost when pressure went up. I called it good and drove home. Other than that the car did great! Still a little on the hot side if it sits, I need to improve the cooling system more. After that will get the hood back on, finish exhaust, charge AC, backseats, headliner, sound system, and itll be good to go up north and hit the dyno on E85 to see what kind of power I can come up with.

 

[Dsmkauai]

Sick bro car is movin haha. I know your pain bro took me a bit to get the temps under control in mine as well. Never a issue in my 2g something about these gvr4's ;(

 

[GSXftw]

So still keepin on with this one... after its passes at the track I was getting some spark blowout, so did new BPR7s gapped down to .02, and ran it around on pump gas for a while to keep it on the road while I worked on it. I had to address some exhaust leaks, here you will notice the turbine housing bolts were backing out.


The turbine housing got taken off, and everything resurfaced.



Then I milled the shit out of the housing to get a bolt into this corner of the housing. What it had before was a stud and a nut on either end, not ideal.



Next step was getting rid of that ridiculous key reminder beep! I couldnt handle it anymore!


I also installed a deck. I hooked it up on the RCAs and everything, but still need to replace the full ranges before the sub/amp goes in.
Then came a tasteful hacking of the bumper. I need more airflow without a doubt. So heres the before.

and the after

I left a few verticals cause I dont want any sag, but it should help for sure. I'll clean it up a little more when the time comes but its roughed in for now.
Then I pulled my foglight to make sure it was the bulb that was bad.


This next mod may seem a little bit odd, but it was to solve an issue I have with how I use my car. Think of it like this: Its race day, you're driving your car around on pump gas since E85 is 3 hours away. You pop the fuel feed off, run the pump and empty the tank, splash in the E85, and you're left with a weak ass mix of E45 after that due to all the gas still left in the bottom of the tank. I dont trust the tank drain plug being pulled repeatedly for this normal occurrence, so I wanted to put a radiator petcock into it. It sounded easy in my head, but was a little tougher given the fact I couldnt just drill/tap the way I originally thought. I pulled the plug, stunk up the shop, stole a petcock off a junk radiator, then saw the threads were close in size to each other and the tank drain wouldnt have enough meat left. Welded a nut as a coupler, countersunk so it could still flow somewhat, and made it all work.



Then came outer tie rods, pretty straight forward there.


So I did these mods on a race day mind you, I wasnt all that interested in running at all despite people asking if I was going. I drove out to watch at about 8pm when racing started at 6. Like most people when they drive out "just to hang out..." I noticed a buddys car there running low 12s, my options were to either borrow a helmet and run pump gas, or go drain tank get E85 etc. I picked the latter. I hauled ass home, the drain worked well other than the fact it was a little slow when youre hours late for a race... I got back to the track ready to roll around 9. Tank showed around E55 since I was impatient on draining the gas. First pass went okay considering. I didnt air tires down at all, banged revvy in 1st and spun a [email protected] at 30psi with a 2.0 60ft. I aired down, tweaked boost a bit, and worked on getting back out there for a fast pass. Launch went great, did a slight spin to a 1.82, 2nd hit hard as hell, then 3rd/4th it broke up a bit and I lifted. Slowing down I saw the dash light up and knew exactly what it was.


First time in this car, but 3rd for me Ive killed of the 96A saturn alternators. The car was a little hotter this pass, so the cooling fans were on, so that coupled with the fact I had my lights on I guess it was too much for the thing. Im very lucky it didnt cost me an engine, looking at these numbers is pretty scary!


Im pretty disappointed since despite lifting to a 118 trap, it still did a PB of 11.92 so it wouldve been lots better if it ran all the way through. Thinking Ill look into the 130A self exciting option at this point, especially given its sound system thats in store. Despite this though, it still got me home and itll live to fight another day.

 

[GSXftw]

So where are we now....

I upgraded to a slightly better alternator, it was another $56 over the one that went bad, since all in all this was the third one I have blown in my dsm life. Put that in and did some runs in around town before I took another go at the track. First pass it spun a lot, missed 3rd, so did a shitty mid 12. Tried another pass without NLTS hoping it would shift easier, but nope the clutch felt like crap, was locking me out unless RPM matched acted like it was dragging. Inspection in the pits showed I gained a lot of free play somehow, I figured it was pedal assembly so I limped it home. Come to find out it was just the clutch master pushrod was at the ends of its adjustment, and skipped a few threads. Had to do this on my 1G too, weld a nut for more threads, done.


Next came some more stereo stuff... The door panels came off to show the awesome stock speakers...



Even though the dash speakers are 4", I had some 3.5" kicking around so they went in


Along with some 3 way 5.25 sonys for the doors. The rears I went with some components and will have to do a pod for the tweeters.


Thats about all for now, Im pretty much done racing for the year so the plans for next year are already in the works and setting in motion.

 

[GSXftw]

So update time, I ran the car a few more times at the track until it was closing time, it did well for what it is with more high 11s at the low 120s. Its best was [email protected] with a lame 1.8 60ft (traction)
the car has about 600 miles on it since being put together, and 3500 miles on the engine. It has proven to be a sweetheart and reliable, the only nagging issue I had was getting it to shift and release right, which turned out to be a starter plate bolt backing out and wedging itself between the clutch fork.


So the car is together and running well, but Im working on the changes for 2017. I noticed the car doesnt pick up anymore power after 28 psi. I dont think the turbine is maxxed, but more likely the stock head/cyclone are holding me back and boost building up in the intake. I cant get past 53 lbs/min. So this engine is getting sold to a buddy for his 1G to work on a HX35 combo, and I will be doing upgrades to let this thing breathe a little more. Call me optimistic but I'd like to crack the 700whp mark. I've had a lot of good stuff sitting on the shelf for the past 2 years while Ive flogged on stock longblock stuff, and its time to see what a build engine will do. I tried my hand at this engine in 2014, and the machine shop as well as myself screwed up the PTW clearance so it made it a whole 70 miles.

I was being super easy on it with 15 psi, 7k redline, just working it in still while the clutch broke in and starting to get a taste of the high rpm flow when a knock under load started. Its actually a mixed blessing since the trans never wouldve shifted at the 9k rpm I was hoping for, turbine shaft broke on the GTX3076 I was running, and decided to go with a main girdle.
So specs for whats in the car now is: 8.5 cr, delta 272s, stock 1G head, cyclone.
And whats going in is: 9.0 cr, Kelford 272s, worked 2G head, JMF SMIM.
So first I cleaned the block back up


I got a replacement piston, which are wiseco 1400 HDs, and a new set of rings. My buddy Jesse at legendary coatings

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...4oO8wpNj-Ux7T06n8djsDw&bvm=bv.144224172,d.amc

did it just like he did the others back in the day which is thermal coating on top, slick coating on the skirts. Then the machine shop went ahead and honed out the block to .004 PTW for free. So basically this mess up only cost me 225 or so, definitely easier to swallow with that.


One thing I was a little concerned about is I had the block align honed with the ARP main studs, but added the main girdle after the fact. I check clearances and sure enough it needs the hone once again.



So I pulled the block back apart, torqued the mains down empty so it could be sent off to the machine shop, when I got the feel of a main stud giving up!!


So I ordered a stud and moly lube (which is probably why it stretched, I was doing +10 with motor oil since I didnt have any)
got the thing torqued and sent to the machine shop


Been waiting on them for a bit but thats where Im at now, GVR4 has just been in hibernation for the winter. Tags are up and insurance was expensive since I got denied on classic car coverage, so its just upgrade time. Thanks for reading stay tuned!

 

[TrevoREX]

just read the whole thread. great build. really makes me feel lazy about my 2g, . keep up the good work

 

[jamel16]

So update time, I ran the car a few more times at the track until it was closing time, it did well for what it is with more high 11s at the low 120s. Its best was [email protected] with a lame 1.8 60ft (traction)
the car has about 600 miles on it since being put together, and 3500 miles on the engine. It has proven to be a sweetheart and reliable, the only nagging issue I had was getting it to shift and release right, which turned out to be a starter plate bolt backing out and wedging itself between the clutch fork.
View attachment 322745

So the car is together and running well, but Im working on the changes for 2017. I noticed the car doesnt pick up anymore power after 28 psi. I dont think the turbine is maxxed, but more likely the stock head/cyclone are holding me back and boost building up in the intake. I cant get past 53 lbs/min. So this engine is getting sold to a buddy for his 1G to work on a HX35 combo, and I will be doing upgrades to let this thing breathe a little more. Call me optimistic but I'd like to crack the 700whp mark. I've had a lot of good stuff sitting on the shelf for the past 2 years while Ive flogged on stock longblock stuff, and its time to see what a build engine will do. I tried my hand at this engine in 2014, and the machine shop as well as myself screwed up the PTW clearance so it made it a whole 70 miles.
View attachment 322746
I was being super easy on it with 15 psi, 7k redline, just working it in still while the clutch broke in and starting to get a taste of the high rpm flow when a knock under load started. Its actually a mixed blessing since the trans never wouldve shifted at the 9k rpm I was hoping for, turbine shaft broke on the GTX3076 I was running, and decided to go with a main girdle.
So specs for whats in the car now is: 8.5 cr, delta 272s, stock 1G head, cyclone.
And whats going in is: 9.0 cr, Kelford 272s, worked 2G head, JMF SMIM.
So first I cleaned the block back up
View attachment 322747

I got a replacement piston, which are wiseco 1400 HDs, and a new set of rings. My buddy Jesse at legendary coatings

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjvnNmauMDRAhVliVQKHajEDfAQFggaMAA&url=https://www.facebook.com/Legendary-Coatings-LLC-231232376925913/&usg=AFQjCNGjJTbOqmevwtRPX0EaVaVhve88WA&sig2=4oO8wpNj-Ux7T06n8djsDw&bvm=bv.144224172,d.amc

did it just like he did the others back in the day which is thermal coating on top, slick coating on the skirts. Then the machine shop went ahead and honed out the block to .004 PTW for free. So basically this mess up only cost me 225 or so, definitely easier to swallow with that.
View attachment 322748

One thing I was a little concerned about is I had the block align honed with the ARP main studs, but added the main girdle after the fact. I check clearances and sure enough it needs the hone once again.
View attachment 322749
View attachment 322750

So I pulled the block back apart, torqued the mains down empty so it could be sent off to the machine shop, when I got the feel of a main stud giving up!!
View attachment 322751

So I ordered a stud and moly lube (which is probably why it stretched, I was doing +10 with motor oil since I didnt have any)
got the thing torqued and sent to the machine shop
View attachment 322752

Been waiting on them for a bit but thats where Im at now, GVR4 has just been in hibernation for the winter. Tags are up and insurance was expensive since I got denied on classic car coverage, so its just upgrade time. Thanks for reading stay tuned!

Awesome build, what do you plan to do to the 2g head, I have one on the shelf that I'm seriously thinking about building up. Since my build is mostly street, I think it would compliment my hx40 well. What's your thoughts on the 2g head?

 

[GSXftw]

Awesome build, what do you plan to do to the 2g head, I have one on the shelf that I'm seriously thinking about building up. Since my build is mostly street, I think it would compliment my hx40 well. What's your thoughts on the 2g head?

The head is actually already done since it got all its mods the last time this combo was together and thats one part I didnt skimp on. Im supposed to get the block back tomorrow and then can start reassembly. The 2G is much better for a street car I think, the 1G head with cyclone gave great off boost and down low driving, but fell off after 6500 like any other stock intake. Obviously with a better intake and work the 1G head will flow up high, but I see the 2G giving a better powerband and with work will flow just as well as a 1G with its raised ports. You can judge a lot of your airflow efficiency by tuning SD, and basing off of that I was pulling lots of airflow below 4500 on this 2G setup (mostly due to SMIM) but Ill have more to say when its back together and goes farther than 70 miles haha.

 

[GSXftw]

just read the whole thread. great build. really makes me feel lazy about my 2g, . keep up the good work

Thank you brother, keep at it. These cars usually pay you back in the long run when youre really stubborn and dont give up.

 

[GSXftw]

Alright, got the block back from the machine shop! So I went on through it with the normal assembly routine. It was really nice not having to file rings since it was already done and on the pistons. First step was making sure the main clearances looked good




Now if you didnt see this engines first run (or fail whatever you wanna call it) I'll catch you up. We have a 2G head, deburred, P&P, +1mm valves, thermal coated, drilled stud holes, teardrop mod, kiggly beehives.




Then we have the L19s, and a copper sprayed cometic HG


Then threw the head on


I called it a night at this point, more assembly tomorrow

 

[jamel16]

The head is actually already done since it got all its mods the last time this combo was together and thats one part I didnt skimp on. Im supposed to get the block back tomorrow and then can start reassembly. The 2G is much better for a street car I think, the 1G head with cyclone gave great off boost and down low driving, but fell off after 6500 like any other stock intake. Obviously with a better intake and work the 1G head will flow up high, but I see the 2G giving a better powerband and with work will flow just as well as a 1G with its raised ports. You can judge a lot of your airflow efficiency by tuning SD, and basing off of that I was pulling lots of airflow below 4500 on this 2G setup (mostly due to SMIM) but Ill have more to say when its back together and goes farther than 70 miles haha.

Thank you for that, I'm definitely going to build up my 2g head and run that. What intake manifold do you plan on running? I heard good things about the Evo 3 manifold

 

[GSXftw]

Thank you for that, I'm definitely going to build up my 2g head and run that. What intake manifold do you plan on running? I heard good things about the Evo 3 manifold

You're like setting the plot for each build update its amazing... haha tonight Ill be torquing the head and doing the top end. Its a JMF race mani, which should fit the engine well since Im planning on a 9k+ redline. The farthest I had the engine was 7k last time, but I can tell you I was having to add a ton of airflow in SD 6k and on, and it was really waking up! Im all about having a usable powerband and power under the curve, a lot of guys just care about peak numbers and that isnt what its all about, especially with a street car. The Evo III mani is great for that all around power if youre going 2G head and 8k redline. Another great option is the honda gsr skunk 2 mani on a 1G head (if I didnt have this 2G head built up already I probably wouldve done that) I have a friend running that on a SBE, and he picked up 45whp from the cyclone with a nice broad curve. I just tried buying an EVO III mani off a JDM engine for sale, but theyre tough to get!

 

[GSXftw]

So tonight I torqued the head down, got the cams installed/torqued, water pump, most of the timing components, intake mani, and did some throttle body work.


I'll be taking the cam gears/cover off the other engine, and getting a kevlar belt, so hit my roadblock for the night on that. The throttle body needed some more work to work with the car. The dsm throttle plate got welded on, the spring got anchored better with some JB weld, and I radiused the IAC passageways since they whistle like a bi*** before! Heres a good example when it first started in my 1G
This is a JMF race, with a 75mm BBK tb, using the nissan/mitsu hybrid IAC.



Then I went ahead and took the car around the block just to circulate the fluids


The engine thats in the car Im still awaiting payment on, so have somewhat hit a stalemate until people (including myself) get some spare cash. Maybe tax time will jump start things! Thanks for reading

 

[GSXftw]

So tonight heres where we are at-
I had to tidy up the bottom end with an oil pan gasket, and to decide whether I could use the crank scraper or not with the main girdle.


It turned out I could use part of it with a little modding. I had to do some trimming, but it will definitely help and be better than nothing.


Then it could hold oil, so I oiled the top end and called it good


It got put away for the time being


so I could go through this 2.3 stroker I picked up. I have never seen a bigger pile of great parts failing so badly! Headstuds were finger tight, as well as knock sensor, oil filter, filter boss, there was an electrical fire, just wow...


On the lighter side of things I did get a good 6 bolt 100mm rotating assembly/block if Im ever not feelin the 2.0

 

[GSXftw]

Tonight on unsolved mysteries!!! UPDATE!!! haha tourettes guy reference... So I set myself up for what I like to call a hell weekend...where I have a thousand things to do, and barely enough time to do it. I drove the GVR4 to the shop friday night to start on the next set of upgrades, it took about 3.5 hrs and I had the engine/trans out of the car.

Saturday was 6 hrs to take everything I was using off of engine A and putting it onto engine B. Turbo, sensors, cam gears, accessories, clutch/fw, tstat housing, ofh, time it with evo 9 belt, etc.

Then I had a party to get to so had to cut it short.
Sunday was preparing the car for the changes I had in mind. I deleted AC (since the car ran hot in the summer and couldnt use it anyways) and cruise (didnt work anyways)


All in all it took 12 hrs sunday before it hit the road. I did some solid shift bracket bushings on the trans and any other quick things to improve shifting. Had to redo all of the vacuum lines, tucked them up nice

Even though I packed the oil pump like always, it refused to show oil pressure with cranking. This handy trick and injecting a qt directly into the housing finally got the oil light to go out.

After loading the appropriate tune for it, It fired up around 10pm sunday, after warming up, timing it, and showing no leaks. I hit the road and seated rings under 12psi. The car drove great shifting was much improved (I found a small leak at the slave that was releasing fluid) it was actually much louder with the cams which was surprising. I really need to finish the exhaust on this soon to quiet it down. Ive been tuning it out at the WG pressure and building the new SD table, so far its been going very smooth and its been great! Hoping to pass 500whp on pump and well over 600whp on E85. Thanks for reading!

 

[GSXftw]

So first off I got tired of this shit

So I finished the catback

It got really, really quiet... kinda nice but I may take it off for track days when Im feelin froggy.
Then I was seeing some uneven compression/starting. Compression was 160/160/55/60 and it was all going out the valves, so I pulled the head without really looking into it.


It was due to the lifters being pumped up rock solid.

With the cams backed down they hold great.


I sent the head to check valve installed height, it was on the money at 1.92, I compared a ton of things with a stock head/cams/valves and everything looks fine. The 3G HLAs ride .030 open at the base circle, same as stock, they were cleaned/bled down when they were installed like always so Im pretty clueless. I talked to Kiggly and he said his HLA regulator would not solve this issue, that he had only seen this when the HLAs were bottomed out on a big base circle cam. I put in some 2G HLAs to try those, along with getting a damn oil pressure gauge in the car. I know I shouldve had one just needed to do it. My thoughts at this point on the pumped up HLAs are its either that much oil pressure overcoming the springs, or Im floating valves letting them extend more than base circle. The latter doesnt seem very likely cause even driving to the shop to pull the head the car pulls great, smooth, definitely on all 4. The shady compression numbers and such are just during cranking and idle, after that it smooths right out. I dunno I will monitor oil pressure and go from there.




Did the gauge pod install in the glove box like I wanted. My buddy 3D printed them out


Then I got to work on the next step on the car, a real manifold. I dont know how much itll actually help so just kind of doing it for the data more than anything. First was port matching the flanges


and cutting up these merge collectors


and working the reducers in. **DISCLAIMER, I do not TIG. These tacks are me mocking it up with stainless rod or just fusing without any filler, so my buddy who does TIG can weld them right. I asked if I could just MIG them together and he didnt want it contaminated with anything but stainless. It holds together and thats all Im trying to do here.



The original plan was to run the same 12cm housing, at the same turbo position to save from changing the downpipe or anything, but with hearing people running 18+cm housings and spooling earlier than I am I think I will go ahead and move the turbo out a little, this 12cm barely clears and I did check that a 14cm would hit. My thoughts were people can run the BEP 9cm and hit mid 600s so why wouldnt a 12 be okay, but all the twin scroll guys say I will be restricted. The main reason for wanting to keep the same turbo position, besides less work, is I wanted a back to back dyno test of them! Nobody out there has done one that Ive seen and the results are way too hearsay. We will see how that one works out, I will do my best to get some info out there for the community when I dyno the car, which my buddy really wants me to come and do.
So the status on the car now is I now have 70 miles on the engine running 15 psi and tuning everything in, the car pulls much better in the high RPMs (Ive only taken it to 8k so far) and Im seeing the same 50-70mph times as when I was running 21 psi on the last setup. I feel like if I could get in the mid 20s of boost I could be as fast on pump as I was last year on E85 which would be pretty amazing. Thats all for now thanks for reading.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Nice thnaks for the updates. A really nice build you got there on that saved vr4 I'm going to save another dsm a 91 tsi in the works this spring basically transferring parts to it and some more upgrades.

 

[hurricanecris24]

I bought your old motor on fb I have yet to put in my car . Any updates on your ride?

 

[92AWDHX40]

Love what you've done here taking it from where it was to now.