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16g vs 20g fwd performance

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LOWBOOST91

Proven Member
69
1
Sep 10, 2013
WILSON, North_Carolina
I have a 97 Talon tsi fwd mostly stock with bolt ons 67,xxx miles, needs a little work here and there

This isnt really a comparison thread its more of a discussion, I plan on doing a road course/ drive every once and a while car. Im not very competetive i dont really plan on making gobs and gobs of power on a fwd vehicle. (because its fwd) I just want to make it a fun car that I can drive and take to VIR on the weekends.

Any way just kinda wanted to start a talk about turbo choices, its obvious that I will be going for either one of these turbos

A side note I plan on running an electronic boost controller. DSM link will be my tuning option (ECMlink) I dont plan on doing internals at all, Just gonna run stock top and bottom end ( maybe, just MAYBE some cams)

BIG 16G- I feel would be a good choice because of the quicker spool but I would be worried about the dead spot and the drop off of boost at higher rpm. Is this something I should really be worried about? Or is it needless and I should get the quicker spool.

20G - That being said we all know bigger turbo = bigger power, and I ###### wouldnt have to worry about the drop off as much in higher rpm, The lag actually might be more of assistance due to being fwd. It very well could help with wheel spin issues the car may encounter
 
a 16g plus fwd is not fun its a burn out monster all the time
 
Wouldn't a 14b make more sense? More linear power curve, boost wouldn't hit as hard and on a road course you wouldn't really need high boost correct?
 
While a 20g does spool a bit slower than a 16, if you are up in spooled range (4k+rpm's), the 20 is gonna hit like a freight train when you tip back in to the throttle exiting curves.

I gotta go with either a 14b or a more advanced system for controlling the boost.
 
Not really any specific 20g, when I think of buying a 20g the very first thing that comes to mind is forced performance, I just like the idea of a quality 20g at a good price

don't pick on my fwd... ok its ok to pick on it, I will admit I wish I would have sprung for an awd, but I don't think fwd can be to terrible for what I want to do
 
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The 14b will be instant boost as well as a 16g I can't say what the 20g will do just yet because mines still in the install process. But I don't think the lag will be that bad but I'm using a smaller hot side.
 
I love my billet 20g. It has the td05h hotside in a 7cm hotside. I think it's the perfect balance for the street.

With my quaife lsd and 235 series tires I have no spinning problems on the street. I'm sure if I launched it on the street I would. But punching it is fine, barely spins in 2nd on at 25psi.
 
I love my billet 20g. It has the td05h hotside in a 7cm hotside. I think it's the perfect balance for the street.

With my quaife lsd and 235 series tires I have no spinning problems on the street. I'm sure if I launched it on the street I would. But punching it is fine, barely spins in 2nd on at 25psi.

Really that's impressive, I figure that it would still hit hard enough to break the tires loose. When do you see full boost?
 
16g is a fun turbo for your needs. im a fwd car too and am using a mhi evo 16g, with the cams and dsm link it will be plenty enought for what you would need it for, plus the pwer doesnt drop off on mine, i boost 20lbs all day and holds boost without dropping boost, and im also using link and use 91 octane
 
The tires still spin a little. But not to the point of it being a problem like a turbo Honda. Depends on the area of road as well.

Full boost is around 4k.
 
I love my billet 20g. It has the td05h hotside in a 7cm hotside. I think it's the perfect balance for the street.

With my quaife lsd and 235 series tires I have no spinning problems on the street. I'm sure if I launched it on the street I would. But punching it is fine, barely spins in 2nd on at 25psi.

TDO5H 20g. Great choice pal! ive always loved the sleeper look and stock looking cover..

People will be, ohhhh 14b.. but guess what ninjas... its a mother effing 20g.. i loved my tdo5h 18g.. !

:thumb:

Is there a specific 20g your looking for? There's a lot of 20gs out there and I'm sure you can find one that fits your need.

Dont pay extra for the greddy 20g's.. theyre the same as the mhi only branded with their name and a different compressor cover.

At least thats what ive read and been informed.
 
TDO5H 20g. Great choice pal! ive always loved the sleeper look and stock looking cover..

People will be, ohhhh 14b.. but guess what ninjas... its a mother effing 20g.. i loved my tdo5h 18g.. !

:thumb:



Dont pay extra for the greddy 20g's.. theyre the same as the mhi only branded with their name and a different compressor cover.

At least thats what ive read and been informed.

You need to read up more about 20gs if you're gonna give that advice. TD05H is not the compressor housing, it's the exhaust wheel. You can have a TD05H 20g with a downward facing cover. What I ment by which 20g was TD05H TD06 or the TD06H. All are talking about the exhaust wheel. All 20gs never came with a dsm hotside either. Everyone that sold/sells them had their hands on them by adding a dsm hotside. Some even took it further like clipping the wheel and porting. You're talking about the bastard 20g that has the TD05H exhaust wheel with a machined 14b or 16g compressor housing. :thumb:
 
I had a evo3 16g on e85 fwd I had no traction issues really I could break em loose if I wanted to but they wouldnt spin buy just mashing the gas on a pull, considering your on dry weather of course. I bought good tires but you not really ganna spin atleast I never did, but I would get a 20g over a 16g there not that fast on pump gas.
 
I had both and the 16g hit was harder and a little sooner than the 20g and was a little more prone to loose traction with the 16g but with dsmlink as boost controller, you can set the boost lower in first and second gear or lower in the lower rpm and rise it slowly as rpm climb so traction will not be an issue. So either the 16g or 20g will do the job.
 
Just a friendly reminder when upgrading turbos. If you plan on running more than 20 lbs, youre looking at headstuds. You can upgrade your headstuds without pulling the head, by going through the valve cover.

The headgasket is another good one to replace when upping the boost. Take a good weekend and pull the head, go in with a new HG and studs, just for peace of mind.

Stock 2g headstuds are known to stretch, and have been reported as a risk if youre running more than 20 lbs of boost. Any more than 18-20 lbs, you will need to get ARP hardware to prevent from lifting the head and giving you HG problems.

ARP hardware varies, you can get the set rated to 25 psi, which are around 100$, or another set thats rated at around 30 lbs for 120$ (I think?).

Whether you find an actual 'rating' system for these head studs out there or not, this is based on personal experience and close experience with others cars.

That being said, my experience with your 2 choices arent both FWD cars. My older brother had a 2.3 stroker w/ FP 20g and that thing spooled FAST... It probably helped that it was in an 18g housing with the torquey stroker motor. I currently have a a small 16g on e85 and will say that even with good tires, 1st gear is nearly useless, 2nd gear spins up top, and 3rd freakin rips. Ironically, even though it is a SMALL 16g I have won more races from the top of 3rd gear where most would argue it should run out of air. Do not underestimate the 16g man... they are POTENT. You just need the correct supporting mods and a good tune, both of which I have.

Check out my mods list, it sounds like im making the kind of power youre aiming for. I havent turned up the boost yet, still on 18 lbs.
 
20G with down firing anti surge hausing. You will loose boos at high rpm. Unless u have a heavly ported hotside and external gate. My 20g hits about 3800. It can be improved with cam choice and unported 7cm hotside. Its alot to figure out. You can't have the best of anything without sacrificing something else.
 
The first thing I am going to work on is the reliability factor, no need to try to take my car to the track if its just going to break when I get there. Not to say there will NEVER be any problems its a DSM I am almost positive there is going to be some issue. I just want to make sure my 16 year old car is ready for such abuse. Though I have heard the track isn't nearly as bad on your car as drag racing, I mean some people drive their car hard every day.
 
If your running laps on a road course than its hard on your car for sure (unless your not driving hard) get the cooling system up to snuff and get some brakes so you don't lose um on the first lap...

Otherwise have fun dont worry about all out power yet i still run a t28 with good luck now im ready for a lil bigger.
 
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