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16g or 20g what to choose

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Albanator

Proven Member
239
1
Feb 6, 2013
Colorado Spring, Colorado
Okay so in front of me I have a MHI evo 3 16g and a greddy 20g. Along with all of these other parts listed,are sitting in my garage floor. So witch one should I chose and not have to much lag on the set up below.

I am going to be doing an AWD swap on my 99 spyder,during witch I am going to be installing a maifold with tail westgate, 3" O2 housing, greddy intercooler with piping and type S bov, Apexi N1 cat back with down pipe and test pipe, 650cc injectors with a 255 Wally,aermotive afpr, AEM wide band, greddy profec-b. I also have an apexi safc-2 to minutely tune until I get my open port and all to the dyno.

My goal is to have a nice streetable 350 as a daly driver with a 1/4 in the 11-12s and be dependable.
 
Either one will get you to you goal, with a proper tune grab the 20g since you can, you cant go wrong with either.
 
Would there be a lot of lag from the 20g? I know opening up the exhaust will make it spool quicker esp. When it is from the O2 housing back. I have been searching for someone close to the same set up but everything I search seems to be off by ether the exhaust or the turbo itself....
 
A bit i never owned a 20g and every car will be different, and set up etc, its gonna depend on you and prices,and goals grab the evo you can always sell it later if you choose.
 
Well that is the thing I bought a parts car for the AWD swap from a impoud auction for 600 bucks and had all this stuff on it. So price is not an issue. I have had the 16g for about 2 months now and well this is where my dilemma comes to play...
 
Either or will help you with your goals. Obviously a 20g will have more lag than a 16g, but its nothing to worry about. I would go with the 20g just in case you want to get more power out of your setup in the future.
 
20g will be a lil laggier but will be a beast of a turbo in comparison. 11's will be made much easier!!!! I would not put anything less than a 20g on my car especially awd.
 
I'd go 20g for sure. With a good tune you won't even notice the lag. You will notice better topend pull though. Keep in mind though that if the 20g is used and you know nothing about it, you may want to consider a rebuild so you don't waste our time puting it on just to find out it has a blown seal or something. Even if it has no play, it could still have a blown seal or another issue.
 
Sell the 16g and go with the 20g. And yes, if you got it second hand, I would recommend getting it rebuilt to for piece of mind. I mean, I don't know about you, but I hate redoing the same thing over and over again. Do it once, do it right.
 
Oh believe me I am in the arm and work on helicopters I hate fixing other people's lazy work ethics. Both of these turbos have been rebuilt and the 20g has one oil change on it at 2,800 miles and the 16g was just rebuilt. Bearings to gaskets and seals. But thanks for all the input... I am deft going to go with the 20 then... Thanks guys....
 
with a 255 Wally,aermotive afpr, apexi safc-2

I would sell these items if your goal is 350hp. Get a 190 pump or EVO9 (flows about 205) pump. Both pumps flow enough for what you want and you can run your stock FPR and get your Tactrix cable. I also prefer the LC-1 to the AEM wideband because I can just plug it into my laptop and don't have to wire it into the ECU.

Also, I'm not sure 650's are going to be big enough to take advantage of a 20g turbo... They'd be a good fit for a 16g though.
 
my car came with a blown 20g, I sold it and bought a 16g and that was my biggest regret. go 20g it has a little more lag but pulls so much harder and you will get to your goal easier.
 
I vote for the 16g you can make a ton of power with it and it has amazing street manners. I don't regret for a second going with a 16g over the 20g when I made my decision. Ive riden in a few 20g cars over the years and everytime the throttle is pushed its like waiting.... waiting.... oh there is the boost finally. On a 16g its like push the throttle and max boost right away (before 3k rpms on my car). The 16g has lasted me 6 years, of which the last 2 were boosting at 30psi and I am making more power with my 16g than everyone on the tuners 20g dyno challenge list.
 
Yeah the hot side is a td06, it is from the greddy trust kit I think. It has all the greddy intercooler,pipes and bov and from serching the kit looks lime what is all here. Also have an intake pipe with the 3" outlet that matched the inlett of the turbo. The turbo was the MHI turbo with the stamped part numbers but has the trust stamp on a welded intercooler outlet elbow. It is a down fireing blower so i wont need a J-pipe. I am goin to change out the cast O2 housing with a ported one, Inside diameter is 2.75" to mate up with the apexi N1 exhaust and down pipe 3". Also have a test pipe with O2 bung that I am going to use for the AEM wideband. I am hoping the with the inlet and exhaust all opened up the lag won't be to bad. If anything I will run the 20g and if I don't like the lag then switch over to the 16g.
 
I never owned a 16g. I went straight from a 14b to 20g. the lag is negligible compared to the end result. Its pretty unanimous by now. :thumb:[/QUOTE

I went from 13g to 16g, and back to a 14b.From a 13g even a t25 is probably laggy,ROFL.
 
I am not AWD yet.. The rear subframe assembly just got dropped out of the parts car last night. I should be pulling the spyder in tonight. I stopped this morning to look up some cams that where in the block because I don't know what kind they are... Stamped ES 4606 both on the intake has a "N" and exhaust has a "P"... Any ideas? I looked at both ends and can't find any other markings. I am sure they are not stock because my spyders cams don't look like these.
 
I am not AWD yet.. The rear subframe assembly just got dropped out of the parts car last night. I should be pulling the spyder in tonight. I stopped this morning to look up some cams that where in the block because I don't know what kind they are... Stamped ES 4606 both on the intake has a "N" and exhaust has a "P"... Any ideas? I looked at both ends and can't find any other markings. I am sure they are not stock because my spyders cams don't look like these.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...5135-camshaft-identification-information.html
 
I think there is a thread on identifying cams, check out bogus hes pretty good at stuff like that check his posts or even pm him for a quick answer he may know.
 
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