The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

ECMlink 16g @ 410hp

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

did anybody notice his o2 sensor was way lean maybe that is why he had a lot on knock .
 
Didn't take offense to you sir, and I do apologize for my horrible math.

The topic was to show my airflow on a 16g.

I'll do some more tweaking. Thanks to all of the replies.
 
It is ok to think that the tune is fine mainly because you feel that there is some success with it but I would say 50% of the cars that come in with John Doe tunes make more power when I remove timing from some point in the tune. It is absolutely pointless to leave the timing that high if the knock sensor just pulls it back...

We have went low 10s on a 16g and 9s in a stock frame charger. 400whp would get you into the 10s if you could drive it. Just my 2 cents.
 
Just a few things,

Knock on stock pistons will break ring lands off. I don't know how much it takes, but it does happen. The convention is on a stock motor, do not let it knock. Granted, it's the same for all engines. But I suppose what is considered knock changes.... I mean a random count here and there will probably never be a problem, but if it's consistently hitting multiple counts during a pull, I'd be taking some timing out.

I have let mine knock some, but I'm looking for an on the edge tune.

Finally, just because you beat those cars doesn't mean dick. Obviously those are good running cars, but they are not low 12's cars unless they have a good driver and a prepped surface. That is the beauty of our cars, they make good use of the power in marginal conditions, until you make big power.



I've only seen one run 10's and it was worked on pretty heavily.

A select few have damn near gone 10's bone stock, some probably have...just like with these cars, the driver makes a world of difference.
 
It is ok to think that the tune is fine mainly because you feel that there is some success with it but I would say 50% of the cars that come in with John Doe tunes make more power when I remove timing from some point in the tune. It is absolutely pointless to leave the timing that high if the knock sensor just pulls it back...

We have went low 10s on a 16g and 9s in a stock frame charger. 400whp would get you into the 10s if you could drive it. Just my 2 cents.

Make sure you mention that you did this in a 2500lb tin can....
 
How do you change airflow in link from grams/sec to lbs/min??

I would really like to change my settings to see what im actually flowing. I did some math and showed my 20g (16g converted to a 20g by justin) was flowing 42 lbs/min (not saying my math was right but used common sense with math to convert it over) and that was spiking 26psi and then settling to 24ish due to a stock 1g unmodded BOV

My logs in link show HP at 503 and tq at 389 through my auto in 2nd gear @7k rpm with 17* peak timing on 91 octane all with My1gDSM tuning my car to the limit on a VERY aggressive tune, thanks again!! :thumb: (btw my emails havent been going though to you for the last 3 days)... She was running great and dusting all the new 5.0 track package mustangs at the drag strip with it taking 1.1 seconds for the auto to shift by the time I make it through the traps (while running 12.81@107)... now looks like I have to pull the motor & trans to fix my tcase output shaft seal on the tranny side :/ unless someone knows how to change that seal with the motor and converter still in the car?
 
Make sure you mention that you did this in a 2500lb tin can....

I will make sure to inform you that this car weighed 2850... The other cars that went this fast around between 1900-2300(FWD tin cans) but I am sure the next comment you will make is about it being on methanol so the argument will continue. Tyler's car is running a factory steel hood, hatch, power windows, working headlights, 2 seats, factory dash, full cage, 15 gallon fuel cell, ect, ect....

Its funny that everyone bashes Tyler's accomplishments but everyone jumps on Curt Browns dick when we goes mid 10s on a 16g...
 
I will make sure to inform you that this car weighed 2850... The other cars that went this fast around between 1900-2300(FWD tin cans) but I am sure the next comment you will make is about it being on methanol so the argument will continue. Tyler's car is running a factory steel hood, hatch, power windows, working headlights, 2 seats, factory dash, full cage, 15 gallon fuel cell, ect, ect....

Its funny that everyone bashes Tyler's accomplishments but everyone jumps on Curt Browns dick when we goes mid 10s on a 16g...

I wasn't bashing it at all, I just don't think it's fair to make it seem like you guys bolted some parts on a car right off the street and went that fast, when it was a prepared racecar.

I wonder how fast my car would be if it lost 500lbs.... My turbo's probably way smaller than your 9 second stock frame turbo.

I'm not a fan of Curt either.
 
How do you change airflow in link from grams/sec to lbs/min??

I would really like to change my settings to see what im actually flowing. I did some math and showed my 20g (16g converted to a 20g by justin) was flowing 42 lbs/min (not saying my math was right but used common sense with math to convert it over) and that was spiking 26psi and then settling to 24ish due to a stock 1g unmodded BOV

My logs in link show HP at 503 and tq at 389 through my auto in 2nd gear @7k rpm with 17* peak timing on 91 octane all with My1gDSM tuning my car to the limit on a VERY aggressive tune, thanks again!! :thumb: (btw my emails havent been going though to you for the last 3 days)... She was running great and dusting all the new 5.0 track package mustangs at the drag strip with it taking 1.1 seconds for the auto to shift by the time I make it through the traps (while running 12.81@107)... now looks like I have to pull the motor & trans to fix my tcase output shaft seal on the tranny side :/ unless someone knows how to change that seal with the motor and converter still in the car?

Right click anywhere in the bottom section below the graph and choose Unit Preferences. Then from the Airflow mass dropdown, choose Pounds (lbs).

Keep in mind (as mentioned before), the HP and TQ estimates will only be accurate if you've configured their properties.
 
We have went low 10s on a 16g and 9s in a stock frame charger. 400whp would get you into the 10s if you could drive it. Just my 2 cents.

How have you gone so fast?? That's very impressive. It seems like only a few people break 11s on a 16g LOL.

What 16g are you running? What intake mani?
 
I wasn't bashing it at all, I just don't think it's fair to make it seem like you guys bolted some parts on a car right off the street and went that fast, when it was a prepared racecar.

I wonder how fast my car would be if it lost 500lbs.... My turbo's probably way smaller than your 9 second stock frame turbo.

I'm not a fan of Curt either.

So your first post was to say that it wasn't our tuning ability that made the car fast, and it was because it was a tin can. We tell you the car is heavy and now you say we acted like we just threw something together and it was fast? I have never said it was easy, thats where our experience in tuning comes from, hours of R&D, Trial and error.. that was why he posted how fast our car went, not because it was easy or because it was light, its because we spend hours trying things that sometimes work to get an end result. FWIW I street drive it all the time, only time it was trailered to a track was shootout.
 
So your first post was to say that it wasn't our tuning ability that made the car fast, and it was because it was a tin can. We tell you the car is heavy and now you say we acted like we just threw something together and it was fast? I have never said it was easy, thats where our experience in tuning comes from, hours of R&D, Trial and error.. that was why he posted how fast our car went, not because it was easy or because it was light, its because we spend hours trying things that sometimes work to get an end result. FWIW I street drive it all the time, only time it was trailered to a track was shootout.

Lol, it's not tuning ability that makes it fast, it's the selection of parts, and the weight. I'd expect anyone who builds a high compression methanol motor in a lighter car to go fast. There's only one combination of numbers you can put in the ecu and make best power, and you don't need to be a magician to find it, especially with a dyno.

To me it seems saying
"We have went low 10s on a 16g and 9s in a stock frame charger. 400whp would get you into the 10s if you could drive it. Just my 2 cents."
Tends to imply you waved your magic tuning fingers over a basic 16g car and it went 10's
There's a big difference between doing that in a race car, or a full weight 5 speed with street tires.

Maybe when you talk about your accomplishments, this statement should come out instead
"We have went low 10s on a 16g and 9s in a stock frame charger in our AUTOMATIC RACECAR. 400whp would get you into the 10s, in a race car if you could drive it. Just my 2 cents."


Lol, and don't ever lecture me on hours of R&D, or trial and error.
 
Lol, it's not tuning ability that makes it fast, it's the selection of parts, and the weight. I'd expect anyone who builds a high compression methanol motor in a lighter car to go fast. There's only one combination of numbers you can put in the ecu and make best power, and you don't need to be a magician to find it, especially with a dyno.

To me it seems saying
"We have went low 10s on a 16g and 9s in a stock frame charger. 400whp would get you into the 10s if you could drive it. Just my 2 cents."
Tends to imply you waved your magic tuning fingers over a basic 16g car and it went 10's
There's a big difference between doing that in a race car, or a full weight 5 speed with street tires.

Maybe when you talk about your accomplishments, this statement should come out instead
"We have went low 10s on a 16g and 9s in a stock frame charger in our AUTOMATIC RACECAR. 400whp would get you into the 10s, in a race car if you could drive it. Just my 2 cents."


Lol, and don't ever lecture me on hours of R&D, or trial and error.

:tease:
 
bastarddsm does kinda make a point. I just looked up that forward facing 16g car and it is a STRAIGHT race car.
 
I appreciate all of the comments and any helpful information. I've got work tomorrow so I'm settling down for the night.

I'll attempt to tune out all of the knock tomorrow and get another couple of pulls.

Only one AWD dyno in my area and I don't really trust them so much.

I have the AEM UEGO wideband but it's just not currently hardwired into my ECM. No time for it lately. The o2 sensor you see if the stock one in the front. My wideband is set into my downpipe just behind where the oil pan sits.

Thank you for the advice. I'll definitely look into it. Speed density is in the future but I have very limited funds right now.

I know the place and agree although you can use their dyno and tune yourself.
 
How do you figure?

Forward facing turbo, gutted rear hatch area (cutting the paneling out), gutted doors, no interior other than the 2 race seats and dash, methanol, exhaust out the fender, induction through the bumper, fuel cell ect ect. The only thing that's not race car about your car was the 16g. Don't get me wrong, you ran a very impressive time for a damn 16g but the set up is not very street friendly.
 
Lol!!!!! Everything is so much easier in a light auto car that came out out of the hole on 10-15 psi of boost and qtps. The average dsmer should he happy if they see 11s on a 16g. I'm happy somebody has spoken up tired of seeing fast full purpose race cars and everybody on their nuts. This is coming from somebody who barely tpuched 11s on a small 16g in basically a full weight 1g. I know have a 71hta and wow what a diff from the 16g. Expecting some close to 130 traps real soon
 
Well if it so damn easy then u guys should do it.. Shoot just go to town with a plasma cutter on an auto car right? That's all takes.. Buy some used slicks... Must be so easy that's why everyone does it right? Oh wait... You guys are real damn fast sitting behind your desk... Talk is cheap guys..
 
I'm not bashing you man. What you did on a 16g is impressive but its still a race car with a 16g on it...
 
I would but I actually drive my car to work once or twice a week when I feel like it. I enjoy my full perfect factory leather interior and don't have the time or patience to take out and scrape every little lb of weight out of the car. I'm not taking nothing away from you guys but I hate when people who have full out race cars talk to people like its easy to run what they did because they as magical tuners or whatever when its actually not easy.

A tune is a tune is a tune. It's really that hard to tune a car. I used to think it was.

Also to the op keep doing what you do. Sounds like your car is moving out pretty good. Keep learning more about tuning keep getting faster till you can't any more on the 16g and than go bigger
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top