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$1500.00 rebuild

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trevnasty

15+ Year Contributor
249
1
Feb 27, 2008
kalispell, Montana
how would you guys (the dsm tuner community) build a motor with only $1500.00 no more no less thanks for all the input
 
Honestly it depends how "in depth" you want to go, and whether or not you're paying someone to do it.

I rebuilt my buddy's non-turbo 4G63 daily driver last year for a total cost of $185 including the replacement (used) cylinder head after the timing belt broke. New rod bearings, main bearings, rings, gaskets, timing belt, and balance shaft belt. All of the existing pulleys were used, the tensioner tested OK, and the water pump didn't appear to be very old.

For labor and garage rental he gave me a set of used FIC 650's and an AFC2.

Yeah, he's that cheap. :D
 
build the block? the head? both? stock or upgraded? does that include labor? kinda depends on what your looking to do?? you want a full full rebuild or to just upgrade internals?? depends man...
 
i paid $1587.34 and that was for a hone/deck/clean/ new bearings, stock pistons from mitsu, plugs, etc stock build bottom end and having the head redone, decked, new valve guides and seals. but thats all stock, next build will be twice that LOL. It can be done, but depends on what you want to do as well (just as others have stated)
 
ok thanks for all the input my compression is shot so i have 1500.00 and i wont to build the motor to it max with 1500.00 sadlly thats all i got to do it labor i em doing my self
 
keeping the head stock? you doing a whole refresh? or are you just redoing the internals?
 
Im going to be in the same boat you are...

I just bought a bone stock 91 TSi AWD that the head was ripped off of...other than that I was told "It ran"

I figure I'll dump a few dollars into it....Buying new rod bearings, main bearing, (may get crank polished...)arp's full gasket kit...new pistons and rings, hone the block

For the head get some bronze valve guides and go performance without a major price....Evo valves,spring, retainers, etc... get a napa gold clutch (proven to hold 297 awhp by a local buddy til it started slipping...Get some prothanes a boost gauge and should be set....Roughly 1k after its all done should be a nice little car....

First thing even before the rebuild is to pull abs out of it though....
 
i em doing the hole refresh pretty much top and bottom i just wont to build it to the nut that i can get it with 1500.00
 
Why don't you figure out why your compression is low before you decide you need a rebuild.

Depending on what's wrong you can do a hone, pistons, and bearings for less than $400. Then you can have $1k to play with adding power. You do need machine work for better rods and pistons. Not so much for the rods, but it's nice to have someone check them out, the pistons for sure need to have the bore machined for them.
 
Why don't you figure out why your compression is low before you decide you need a rebuild.

Depending on what's wrong you can do a hone, pistons, and bearings for less than $400. Then you can have $1k to play with adding power. You do need machine work for better rods and pistons. Not so much for the rods, but it's nice to have someone check them out, the pistons for sure need to have the bore machined for them.

ya your right man thanks for info i will do that for sure and thanks everyone for the help :thumb:
 
4gsx63 - Your dollar figures are way off, so I deleted your post. Please don't guess on things like that.


My roomate just had his longblock gone through.

The following was done to the block: re-surface, bore .020 over, hone, assembly cleaned, new 1G cast pistons, reconditioned his 1G rods with ARP hardware, new rings and bearings, new BS bearings, new main seal, shortblock assembly.

The following was done to the head: re-surface, assembly cleaned, ground new surfaces on existing valves, new stem seals.

Total for parts and labor for both was just under $700 and this engine will support his 350-400 WHP goal just fine. And that left extra money to replace his front cover, water pump, timing belt, etc...
 
What make you think I guessed on the dollar figures? Why don't you search first before deleting my post.
I assumed you guessed because of how inaccurate your figures were. And for your information, I purchased most of those parts last night, so I suppose my figures are going to be a bit more accurate than yours.

Examples:

Water pump: You said $90 and it is actually $126
Front cover: You said $120 and they are actually $195-$220 (which does not include the gears that you failed to mention)
Timing Belt: You said $80 and they are actually $62.

Not everyone needs new valves and guides. Those are the things that need to be inspected by the machinist. And it's difficult to put a price tag on labor if you don't know what needs to be done firsthand.

I could keep going, but I've made my point. We try to keep information as accurate as possible around here, so guessing isn't the best option. Your post wasn't any more accurate than a group of guys bench racing, and that's why it was deleted. PM me if you want to discuss this any further.
 
I think you're over paid and sorry to see that. Remember parts/labor pricing are all relative (brands, shops, labor hours, discounts...etc). The OP has a limited budget for his build and I provided the pricing accordingly. Not everyone needs new valves and guides. I was giving the OP an option if he happen to need it. I didn't say he needs to replace everything did I?

I can sit here all day and price quoting every rebuild parts but I don't have time.

Water pump: no more than $90 at NAPA
Frontcover/oilpump/gears - $110
eBay Motors: DSM JDM 1G 4G63T ECLIPSE OIL PUMP TALON LASER 4G63 (item 160329889596 end time Apr-30-09 21:35:08 PDT)
Timing belt: $70 - Extremepsi

Good day:thumb:

I assumed you guessed because of how inaccurate your figures were. And for your information, I purchased most of those parts last night, so I suppose my figures are going to be a bit more accurate than yours.

Examples:

Water pump: You said $90 and it is actually $126
Front cover: You said $120 and they are actually $195-$220 (which does not include the gears that you failed to mention)
Timing Belt: You said $80 and they are actually $62.

Not everyone needs new valves and guides. Those are the things that need to be inspected by the machinist. And it's difficult to put a price tag on labor if you don't know what needs to be done firsthand.

I could keep going, but I've made my point. We try to keep information as accurate as possible around here, so guessing isn't the best option. Your post wasn't any more accurate than a group of guys bench racing, and that's why it was deleted. PM me if you want to discuss this any further.
 
I suppose it's worth noting that I was quoting OEM parts from JNZ Tuning's website, being that OEM is typically recommended on such items like oil pumps and timing belts, and JNZ usually has the best prices.

Of course it would be cheaper when you're buying no-name parts off eBay that say, "These pumps have the manufacturers embossing removed and part number removed". Sounds like you'd have a better chance at getting a real Mitsubishi pump at a Ford dealership than through that auction. :ohdamn: LOL

And remember that being on a budget doesn't mean it's recommended or even wise to cheap out on critical engine components. You get what you pay for.


PS - There you go guessing again. Napa gets $52.99 for a new 1G water pump.
 
These parts are for a 6 bolt 1991 engine and I sold these parts to myself, P#'s are accurate and so are MSRP prices. You can buy these parts from me if you so chose to and I can get it under MSRP for ya.

Water pump is MD972052 154.02
Timing belt MD326059 78.25
Timing belt tensioner MD164533 105.98
The two pulleys my invoice doesn't go into depth but one is the tensioner pulley and other is the idler pulley MD165604 40.77 and MD129355 33.92. That is 412.94. Not bad for a little sense of security, those prices are over the counter retail pricing from Mitsu (I should know I sell it all day).

These parts can be had for less from me or any of our fine sponsor/vendors. Even if you go to a Mitsu dealer and say you are from a garage (firestone on so and so road) they will usually give 15-25% off depending on the shop.

Hope this helps a little, I can look up other pricing if you are interested in buying OEM.
 
I just so happen to be pricing out my engine when I saw your post - here are prices I just got from Parts Dinosaur - the bearings are ACL Race bearings and the rest is whatever he has posted.

Parts Dinosaur
Gasket Set (Whole Engine) $76.00
Head Gasket (MLS) $59.95
Timing Kit $201.50
Main Bearings $59.90
Rod Bearings $33.30
Oil Pump $164.00
Turbo Gaskets $39.00

Total $633.65

Obviously it doesn't include machining, and I left pistons & rings off since I haven't decided what I'm going with in regards to those yet. If you re-used your pistons and just put on new rings, with machining it should fall below $1500.
 
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