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14B install on a 2G with a homebrew install kit

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cucumber

20+ Year Contributor
2,475
7
May 17, 2002
by John Derrington a.k.a. cucumber


I decided to put the 14B on my 2G Spyder due to the fact that I got it for free, and I installed it for less than 40 bucks. I’m sure you’re wondering, how did I do that? That’s what I hope to explain to you through this write-up, how you can install a 14B/16G /20G for less than 40 bucks. You may not want to “cheap” out on some things like I did, but hell, I got over 100 CFM’s for less than 40 bucks. Here is my write-up, and any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Tools:
Basic Craftsman Tool Set
Floor Jack
Jack Stands
Liquid Wrench (You’ll need it)
Breaker Bar (Would be very HELPFUL, considering I didn’t have one)

Install Kit:
I ordered my install kit from KrazyKorean off of DSMTuners.com, and it had a SS oil feed line, new water lines, and a new oil return line. I already had a 1G J-pipe, and I was determined to use it. I paid about 30 bucks for all of these items from KrazyKorean. I reused all my gaskets, except for the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket, which I ordered from an O’Reilly’s parts store near me. They sell a very good Fel-Pro turbo gasket set if you need some gaskets for the install. This is all you need to put in this turbo, hell, you can probably reuse the T-25 water lines. The oil feed line is what you’ll really need, as the old one got bent all to hell as I pulled the t-25 off.

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The turbo, note the polishing I took to it.

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The install kit. The black pipe is the 1G j-pipe that I used.


Install:
1. Jack up the car and drain all coolant and oil. This will save you a lot of hassle in the long run.
2. Remove Driver side fan. It’s simply four bolts and it’s plugged into a harness. This will give you more room to maneuver as you try to get some bolts out.
3. Remove downpipe from 02 housing. This was a pain in the ass.
4. Remove upper and lower heat shields. Simple.
5. Remove intake pipe, unplug MAF.
6. Take out your old 02 sensor. Mine was ####ed, so I replaced it with a new BOSCH unit from an O’Reilly’s parts store. They are fairly expensive. Taking out this 02 sensor was a MAJOR pain in the ass.
7. Now it’s time to remove the upper water line from the turbo. You’ll only remove the rubber hosing. It’s very simple.
8. Next, remove the lower coolant line. You will get sprayed with a ton of coolant, so be prepared to get soaked.
9. At this point, the turbo should have no water lines connected whatsoever. Now, you want to remove the oil return line. It’s just two bolts on the underside of the turbo and two bolts to the oil pan.
10. Now, remove the old oil feed line from the oil filter assembly. It might be a hassle to get out, it was for me. I didn’t disconnect the old oil feed line from the T-25, since I didn’t need it, and it was a big pain in the ass to get off.
11. It should be time to pull the turbo out from the exhaust manifold. There are three bolts and what stud. This is hard as hell. You want to be careful that you don’t mess anything up, but these bolts are hard to get out. You’ll want to soak them in Liquid Wrench to get them off. I didn’t have a breaker bar, so I utilized the good-old-use-your-biggest-wrench-possible-for-leverage-technique. After a ton of swearing and frustration, they finally came off.
12. Remove the lower intercooler pipe from the turbo.
13. Now, wiggle the turbo out. It should come out fairly easily, and you can go hook the t-25 up somewhere as your new hairdryer.
14. There, halfway done. The old turbo is out, and the new turbo will be prepped to put in. Place your new water lines and SS oil feed line onto the 14B. This is very easy to do. Just look at the t-25 and match the setup that the water lines and oil feed line is on it.
15. Remove the 02 housing and place it on the 14B. I reused the gasket.
16. Take the 14B and maneuver it up into place. The only new gasket I used was the turbo to exhaust manifold gasket. Tighten up the bolts and thread the stud.
17. Connect the SS oil feed line to the oil filter assembly.
18. Connect all respective coolant lines to their rubber hoses. You might do some bending and “Magyvering”, but it’s not too difficult.
19. Connect oil return line to the oil pan and to the turbo.
20. Put the new 02 sensor into the 02 housing. Once again, the 02 sensor was being a ####stick.
21. So, you spend 70 bucks on a j pipe. Shame on you. :) You really don’t need one. I took my LICP and took it off the intercooler. I then flipped it around, and routed it up to connect to the 1G J-pipe. VIOLA! It worked.

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J-pipe connected.

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LICP ran over the intake pipe. The fit is tight, however it works and I don’t notice any ill-effect on cooling, power, or turbo efficiency.

22. Reconnect the intake pipe and MAF.
23. Reconnect the fan and heat shields.
24. Go through the car, make sure every bolt it tightened. You don’t want an accident.
25. Refill the car with the respective amount of oil and coolant. You don’t want to start your car without these.
26. Disconnect the spark, and crank the car a few times to get oil running through.
27. Reconnect the spark, and start the car. I’ll admit it, I was nervous. :) It should start and idle fine. You’ll have a ton of smoke at first, burning off all the liquid wrench and WD-40. The smoke will eventually go away, and the car should idle fine. Check for leaks, I didn’t have any, and I’m continually checking for leaks, I don’t want a major debacle to happen.
28. Take the car for a spin, and see how it feels. You’re done. Congratulations.

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Engine, with the 14B installed.

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Another good engine shot with the 14B.

The Afterglow:
This install took about two days, about 3 hours each day. This is counting all the random runs to the parts store and food and drink breaks. You will be dirty, and you will have bloody knuckles. It was a fun time, and I’m definitely satisfied with the outcome. I’m keeping the boost low so far, and the car pulls like a raped ape at 10 PSI. It pulls so much harder than the t-25. I’m still checking the car for random leaks and sounds, however, all seems OK the day after. This is definitely a great upgrade for all of those tuners on a budget. I can generally say that any 2G driver can add 50 HP and drop a second off of their E.T.’s with this turbo. Not bad for spending 40 bucks. ;)

Credits:
Special thanks to vfaq.com for the nice diagrams and instructions.
Special thanks to my buddies Mitchell and Klinton Truett, and Eli Erb for their help during the install.
Special thanks to all that I bugged with questions via AIM and private messaging, namely, nine5raptor, so cali eclipse, tevenor, and all those who I forgot to mention, your help has been greatly appreciated.
 
Originally posted by RuBiCaNT5X
Good write up, John.. :thumb: Hopefully it will help when I do my 16G this weekend.. I would add what size sockets you will need. 10mm and 12mm are the most common it seems.

Yes, they are very common on this install. VFAQ.com has a FABULOUS write-up on a 16G install onto a 1999 GSX. Check it out, it even tells you what TOOL you need to remove a certain part.
 
Really helpful. I should be getting my 14b soon as well. Was yours ported at all? Let me know when u get some real numbers on it if before i do as i have GS-T as well.

my_gst95
 
Originally posted by cucumber


Yes, they are very common on this install. VFAQ.com has a FABULOUS write-up on a 16G install onto a 1999 GSX. Check it out, it even tells you what TOOL you need to remove a certain part.

No doubt they do, I've read it many a time, but for those who want to follow your install, word for word, I would have put Vfaq links to it or put the toolz needed... :D Just some friendly criticism...
 
Nice writeup indeed, I remember there was a "needed parts" list for this before but I couldn't find it again so this will be saved to the HD for sure. Now if I could only find a low-mile 14b for a decent price ;)
 
Thanks for the compliments guys. I'll submit it to the Tech Forum sometime soon. I'm glad I could help some of you guys.

Jihan, I have like 3 of those "J-pipes" and initially didn't think that they would work. I've sent yours back to you.
 
Originally posted by cucumber


Yes, it's necessary, however, you can simply flip the LICP around and make a factory 1G J-pipe work.

Decided to go a different route, eh? I thought about trying to rotate the housing, but just decided to extend that licp instead.

edit:: it doesn't look like you rotated your housing to me. am I missing something in the pic???
 
i am definitly gonan go with a 14b. Very nice writeup

Brendon:dsm:
 
cucumber you are the man!!! Nice work and great write up ! ! ! ! :thumb:
 
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