The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

14b/16g questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Jeff_Ciesielski

15+ Year Contributor
107
1
Nov 6, 2005
Seattle, Washington
Due to the loss of my dsm to a beagle (in the road), I recently purchased a 91 RX-7. I quickly decided to turbocharge it due to its UNBELIEVABLE lack of torque, and I acquired what i believed to be a 14b from a 1g, and a 2g side mount. After a bit of research, I came upon a bit (I believe it was at VFAQ) about how the 16g compressor housing fins were alternated high and low, and the 14b fins were all on the same level, mine just happen to alternate. My question is... which turbo do I have??? I cant seem to find the turbine housing size cast into it anywhere, which I know is also an indicator. Also, while I'm on the subject, How much boost will a 14b/16g produce when installed on a non-dsm if a vac line is connected directly to the actuator. I've heard conflicting reports, ranging from 5 to 14 psi. I'd hate to boost and blow an apex seal :/. Thanks for any help, and sorry for being so uneducated on the subject, I didn't own my dsm long enough to get terribly into the subject of dsm tuning. Just long enough to gain a healthy respect for them :) .
 
Identifying those two is easy. The 16g will have dual fins where as the 14b will have a single set of fins. As far and the boost it will be right in the 11-9 range depending on how old the turbo is and how worn out the spring is. Not overly familiar with the N/T rotary engine but from what I hear it will be fine. If you do blow the apex seals don't worry they make one's now that will last a lifetime on 500hp engine's so no worries on your's.
 
Just make sure you have the fuel delivery, and the ECU mapped for it. Rotarys can be fun, but there engines aren't bullet proof.
 
On a bit of a tangent I would SERIOUSLY suggest looking into some better cooling on that car. I've always heard most of their problems come from inadequate cooling. Once you start pumping boost into it this will be even more important. Wouldn't want you to kill the new car.
 
Your thinking of the 93-96 3rd gen RX-7's. The 91 model's didn't have that kind of an issue.
 
Thought it applied to all of them, but I haven't looked too heavily into them. Rotary's are wonky :p
 
95bLaCkGsTuRbO said:
... As far and the boost it will be right in the 11-9 range depending on how old the turbo is and how worn out the spring is...
Ok, so I'm about 90% sure its a 16g then...which is awesome considering i got it for free :thumb: . So on to my next question; I've read that you can shorten the actuator rod to lower boost. How much truth is there to this statement??? If its so, how much does it need to be shortened??
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top