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13.5's how much?

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Ok guys somebody is missing the point on this car. The point is he is building tons of boost and has no power at all. This is a 1g AWD with the stock injectors and FPR running at 17+psi!!! You need to take out the plugs and do a compression test on the car....my money is that you have a fried valve somewhere making you run onn 3.5 cyls at best. The car probably has a hacked AFM in order to not hit fuel cut at that boost lvl too....this will just make it run leaner and cause more problems.

First thing to do is check your compression and get back to us on how it went....then we can give you some direction to go. In the mean time turn down that freggin 20g. Anything over 15psi will be hell on a 1g with stock injectors and stock FPR.

Also you are probably overrunning the FPR with that 255 and causing yourself to be really rich at the start and really lean up top. This is really bad.

Let me guess the car boggs comming outta the hole even when the turbo is spooled. It begins to build power around 3500 and that starts dropping off rather rapidly at 4500-5000? Not to mention that all the time this car probably feels a bit sluggish?

let us know how the compression check goes and hopefully there will be a way to save this car without a head rebuild.
 
crankbender howd ya know it does feel sluggish above 5000rpm, previosly checked compression about 2 month ago 3 were 120psi, i belive it was number 1 cylinder was at 115 not much difference, and i got my head redone about 2 months ago, new vavles anyway, the timing belt broke, real fun stuff their. my a/f guage show rich in top end though, about 3 lights from being peged, oh i just removed the bc yesterday, cause the actuator on it is preset to 14-15 psi, i seemed to run better just doing that
 
its not real sluggish coming out of the hole, atleast i dont think it is, the kid that owned it before me mess with most of the stuff i got it with a blown engine, and put the jdm in it. I dont know what AFM stands for but i have yet to see fuel cut in the car, the car got slow before i even went with the 20g turbo, i measured the resistence on my wires, someone said that may help but i dont know how much is bad, i measured it at 20k (setting) and it read 10.5 ohms. And my knock sensor has my check engine light on.
 
And my knock sensor has my check engine light on.

???

AFM is air/fuel mixture. This can be read of the O2 sensor. It isn't great unless you have a wideband but it helps alot.

I would guess you are running crappy up top cause you are running out of fuel, running lean, knocking, and getting your timing pulled. At about 5k you are going to reach a point when the injectors are flowing as much as they can and it still isn't enough to keep the mixture correct. Or if you are not seeing fuel cut you probably have a hacked mas and you are running lean all the time (except down low when you are seeing increased fuel pressure because the 255 is overrunnign the stock FPR). This will destroy your engine and yes 115psi is rebuild area for this engine (you may have caused problems to it already). But 115 is not completely dead yet as you may have done it wrong (bad seal) or the engine was cold. Before you do anything you need to make sure your fuel is correct and explain about this knock....knock is bad. To check your fuel you are going to need a AFPR or take that 255 out....get the AFPR they are like 40 bucks for a cheap one that will work and it will be needed eventually anyway. (check the rre site to the name of it you cut the top off your old one and reuse the bottom of it). Then you are going to need injectors and a afc to run anything above 16psi or so...you can correct up to there with the AFPR. Now about that mas. If they have hacked the mas you are reading alot less air than is actually flowing. This should be fixed if possible or corrected with a AFC.

I truly hope your engine is ok....don't boost it for now to make sure you don't hurt anything. Find out what your O2 is doing. Do a compression test again with the engine warm...and if it is low you need to do a wet test (www.vfaq.com). Let us know what happens with this.
 
MY FREIND ALMOST HAS THE SAME SETUP AS YOU AND I HAVE ALMOST BONE STOCK LASER AND HE ONLY BEATS ME BY HALF OF LENGTH. HE GOT A FMIC AND IS KILLING SS'S ON 22 PSI!!!!!!!!
SO GET A FRONT MOUNT!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Yeah, the best advice to give someone with lots of mods going slower than stock is (GET MORE PARTS). The only part you should be thinking about is a datalogger and the help of an experienced friend.
 
I agree with highpsi I wouldn't buy any more parts till you find what your problem is one thing you do need is an afpr that 255 is over running the factory unit. If you have stock pump you could put it back in for now till you find out what your problem is. Regardless though with a 20g on 15psi and awd you should be in the 13's.
 
You need to rev higher at the launch and practice on your driving skills if the car is "hoppin"
 
i was very uninformed at the time of purchase, hahn tech department told me i could run without bigger injectors and fmic. i now wish i bought the injectors and fmic before getting the turbo
 
You can run it but not much boost. You were running 1.9 0-60's and now 2.3 sec? Mabe your clutch is slipping. Figure out how to launch without bogging first though
 
the only thing i can think of is that your ecu is going out i had the same problem and trust me it's not helping. take it and get it rebuilt or get a new one before it's not even drivable anymore. Just a warning i dont want you to end up like me without a car for 3 weeks.
 
Originally posted by swordfish

When I was learning the E brake technique on the old BR20G I could build about 8-10 psi at the line pretty easily. The thing to look out for will be that you will have more wheelspin with higher HP applications.

Let me also mention that this is hell on the clutch.

jeff

hell yeah it's bad for the clutch...a couple of months ago I went to a carshow/bike race at Infineon Raceway. I had to park in the overflow parking lot and the road was dirt and uphill. To add to the trouble there was a LONG ass line going to the gate and the whole way it was uphill. I had to go up it twice because we had problems getting in (my friend was in the show so we were trying to get in for free). Anyways...while going up the hill, I used the ebrake a couple of times, but I started after I burned my clutch rolling back a lot. Then a couple of times after using my ebrake, I started seeing smoke coming from my engine bay, quite a lot actually. Figured out it was my clutch and ever since I have some pretty bad slipping first gear.
 
You need to go over your whole car.....check everything..from boost leaks to connectors, etc.

Do a tune up (spark plugs, fuel filter etc.)

Get an adjustable Fuel pressure regulator etc.


FWIW

With just a upgraded fuel pump, AFPR, UIP, full 3" Exhaust and free mods.

I ran a 13.6@106mph and that was with a horrible launch....there is plenty left in your setup!
 
Originally posted by PRESSURIZED
With just a upgraded fuel pump, AFPR, UIP, full 3" Exhaust and free mods.

I ran a 13.6@106mph and that was with a horrible launch....there is plenty left in your setup!

Is that possible on a T25 with the same mods?
 
No it will not. T25's suck. BTW, this post is over a year old. Sorry for bringing it back up.
 
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