.10Amp Draw from Room Lamp fuse. Draining Battery

[way2slowtalon]

I am constantly draining my battery in the course of a couple days. After an Amp test I narrowed it down to the Room Lamp Fuse in the engine bay.

I went through all fuses and the 2 relays in the drivers side kick panel (no change).
Unplugged ECU and also Radio (still drawing).

Are there any relays/fuses/harness's I should still check that can be effected?

ABS Computer?
Lighting system?
Anything behind the radio?

Any suggestions I appreciate, thanks.

.10 amp = 100mA

 

[NHerron]

Are you constantly draining and recharging batteries? I don't think you are but if the battery keeps getting drained and recharged it will damage the battery EVENTUALLY, but not as quick as you seem going through them.

If you really want to cheaply and accurately test your batteries, you can check each battery cell for specific gravity. Specific gravity is basically comparing the water to sulfuric acid contained in each cell of the battery. If the battery has those black removable covers that reveal 6 holes then get yourself a battery hydrometer at the local auto parts store. First charge the battery. Then remove the surface charge. To do this, turn and leave on the headlights for 5 minutes. After that, disconnect the battery and let sit again for 5 minutes or so to stabilize. NOW take your battery hydrometer and stick it in each of the six cells and compare reading to the table provided. Here is a good link in case the hydrometer doesn't come with a table:
Battery Specific Gravity - Storage

Your regulator may be faulty and not telling you it's bad with the battery warning light on the dash. Since the car don't come with volt gauge, get a volt meter rigged up in the car to ride around in town with and observe the gauge

 

[6damian6]

Weird issue: When I hit the hazards, or turn signal the dome lights blink too. Just on battery and with the car on.

Short right?! Even though short tester came out negative?

I'd say you have a bad ground on the dome light circuit, try to make a new temporary ground for the dome light and see if it still flashes when you turn the hazards/turn signal on.

 

[NHerron]

I'd say you have a bad ground on the dome light circuit, try to make a new temporary ground for the dome light and see if it still flashes when you turn the hazards/turn signal on.

(Assuming OP car is key ON engine OFF -ie, alternator is out of picture)

I'm going to bet EVERYTHING dims as soon as the OP hits the turn signal. In other words, everything is bright but when an extra draw is demanded, WHILE that draw is ON or ACTIVE, EVERYTHING dims due to less power available from battery. If the alternator was running and battery fully charged then it wouldn't be a problem. Ever had an amp in a car with no capacitor to compensate for when the disgusting amount of bass hits? Same theory.

If look closely, the dome light is flashing out of sequence with the turn signal. Or look at the dome light and then turn on turn signal, the dome light is DIMMING when turn signal hits, not getting brighter.

Now if car was running, and battery was fully charged when dropped in car but still was dimming then you need to test the alternator because it's not up to par. The battery is like a capacitor while running but if the alternator is barely doing it's job, then the electrical loads are biting big out of the battery instead of the alternator compensating the extra loads.

I seen rockauto.com has a few different amperage outputs with OEM style fitment for my 97 GSX, maybe the OEM alternator outputs are different between Eclipse models? Anyone know?

 

[luv2rallye]

I seen rockauto.com has a few different amperage outputs with OEM style fitment for my 97 GSX, maybe the OEM alternator outputs are different between Eclipse models? Anyone know?

For factory 2g's: 2.0L turbos (MT & AT) and 2.4L MT use 75A alternators. 2.4L AT and all NT and all Canadian (due to daytime running lights) use 90A alternators (also Galant VR-4 uses 90A).

 

[NHerron]

Cool, thanks luv2rallye. I assume since rockauto lists the different alternators available for a 97 GSX, they are all interchangeable? Just the outputs are different not fitment or connections?

 

[luv2rallye]

I assume so. You can always put in a higher amp output alternator if you need to as long as it fits and the connections are the same.

 

[95_GSTBOOSTIN]

The 10 amp "Room Lamp" fuse on a 2g is the 2nd from left, bottom row, in the engine fusebox. It supplies power to auto-cruise ECU, dome light, door ajar light, automatic tranny control module (if have), ECU, ETACS-ECU, foot light, ign key hole light, trunk light, motor antenna, radio, theft alarm,vanity mirror light, garage door opener, door locks, glove box, ign key reminder buzzer, lighting monitor buzzer, power windows, seat belt warning buzzer.

Thank you, but the only things that don't work are: trunk light, vanity mirror, foot light, ign key hole light, glove box light and the buzzers. Any ideas?, because everything else works.

 

[luv2rallye]

Most of that stuff is controlled by switches (eg. door open switches control foot lights, ign key hole light, and the buzzers - all through the ETACS ECU. Other switches directly control the other stuff - trunk, mirror, glove box). I'd start by checking the switches. Many of the switches like the door open ones, provide a ground to activate the function - see electrical diagrams.