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1.8 manual rack

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overdoseheroin

15+ Year Contributor
219
4
Dec 4, 2004
your mom, Minnesota
if swapping a 1.8 manual rack into a 1g turbo T/E/L , are you able to swap out the rack with the motor still in the car. also, is it a bi*** to get it off the steering column? if someone could give me a how to post about it, it would be great.
 
http://www.mckeone.net/steering.html

There's a full write up on that site. Theres a link on v-FAQ.com to it under suspension. That should tell you everything you need to know.

By the way... How's the talon doing? It seems like you have added a few things since chassis fab. So you have 340 hp now? Thats pretty cool. I've done a few things since the seam welding and all that, but nothing all that impressive. I have mostly done a lot of weight reduction. Did you ever put on your ported head? The head I ported seemed to make a pretty big difference.
Alan
 
I did mine with the motor in the car. Getting to the bolt for the column is much easier once you have all the PS lines & junk out of the way. That being said, it's still a major bi***. ROFL

Don't forget to get the passenger side bracket ;)

FWIW, you will love the car after you do this.
 
zephyr_8 said:
http://www.mckeone.net/steering.html

There's a full write up on that site. Theres a link on v-FAQ.com to it under suspension. That should tell you everything you need to know.

By the way... How's the talon doing? It seems like you have added a few things since chassis fab. So you have 340 hp now? Thats pretty cool. I've done a few things since the seam welding and all that, but nothing all that impressive. I have mostly done a lot of weight reduction. Did you ever put on your ported head? The head I ported seemed to make a pretty big difference.
Alan

ya since then i got my fmic, evo8 mass air sensor (i had a 2g but my buddy went with AEM in his evo and the evo8 flows 26% better at the same karman so of course i switched to that), 680cc injectors, 22 psi on pump gas and 14b and tuned with my wideband. slowboy is building me a sleeper 20g now and in about 2 weeks im hoping to make 370 ish on pump and close to 400 on c-16. i have not ported my head yet but my buddy with the GVR4 had his head freshened up and i ported it for him. its gonne be running agin sometime next week and hopefully it will be close to 11's on stock turbo. as for my ported head...i came tight on money and sold it to my buddy with a 60-1 and hes using it with 272's and it pulls hard as #### to 8500.
 
Where do you guys get your manual racks? Can I go to Oreillys or AutoZone or something and order a manual one from them?

I will be pulling the motor in the next month to put in a new bottom end and want to ditch the power steering if possible.

thanks in advance,
Josh
 
overdoseheroin said:
ya since then i got my fmic, evo8 mass air sensor (i had a 2g but my buddy went with AEM in his evo and the evo8 flows 26% better at the same karman so of course i switched to that), 680cc injectors, 22 psi on pump gas and 14b and tuned with my wideband. slowboy is building me a sleeper 20g now and in about 2 weeks im hoping to make 370 ish on pump and close to 400 on c-16. i have not ported my head yet but my buddy with the GVR4 had his head freshened up and i ported it for him. its gonne be running agin sometime next week and hopefully it will be close to 11's on stock turbo. as for my ported head...i came tight on money and sold it to my buddy with a 60-1 and hes using it with 272's and it pulls hard as #### to 8500.


Oh ...i was just curiuos what had happened to the head. I was in your class at Wyotech if you didnt recognize the screen name. Good luck with the car. Thats awesome that it has come that far since March.
 
Just curious (I've been trying to search on this subject) but let's say you're making a right turn, would you have to turn the steering wheel more turns with the manual rack to make the turn than with a rack that has PS? Think I'm seeing that correctly when searching when looking at the ratio of turns. Is it really that hard to turn? I have my motor out right now and I'm doing the ABS delete, Cruise control delete, A/C delete, and this would clean it up even more I think and be less of a pain when working on the car.

I've driven some cars without PS and it totally sucks when at a standstill, and other cars it wasn't all that bad. Let's say I had PS and the belt came off, would it be the same as that or easier to turn? I see many pluses about doing this but having a hard time trying to turn and turning the wheel more times are the biggest turn-off's I see. Thanks for any feedback.

Scott
 
v8s_are_slow said:
Just curious (I've been trying to search on this subject) but let's say you're making a right turn, would you have to turn the steering wheel more turns with the manual rack to make the turn than with a rack that has PS?

The ratio is different since there's no power assist. I drove a 94 1.8 Eclipse for 7 years and it did not have power steering. When the car was moving more than 10-15mph it was fine and I actually liked the feel. However, trying to steer with one hand coming out of the drive-thru with a drink in the other hand was a big pain. I tried parallel parking a few times which wasn't too much fun because of the combination of not being able to move the wheel easily and having to turn the wheel so many times just to get the car to turn a little. I autocrossed it a few times also and noticed that in slaloms where almost everyone else was just flicking the wheel to get through, I was turning the wheel about 1.5 revolutions to get around the same obstacle.
 
so you would say from point to point its about 3 revolutions? how hard is this to do? is parking in a parking lot that bad? backing out in a parking lot? is it really as bad as alot of people make it seem?

thanks in advance
david
 
I'm about to be building my car next week. Need to know about this before I start since my motor is out. So all in all, it's not only harder to turn but takes more turns of the steering wheel to turn "X" amount of distance? Am I reading that right? So in essence it probably just sucks to have unless you're going straight line and don't plan on turning...ie., emergency and have to correct to keep from wrecking???
 
A smaller steering wheel will help offset some of the ratio difference...you won't have to turn the wheel as much. Besides the stock wheel feels like it is about the size of a semi wheel. :thumb:
 
Well, I already have a sparco steering wheel. It'd be nice to clean up the engine bay some but not if it's gonna be really hard to turn and more turns of the steering wheel to turn the same distance with ps and less turns of the steering wheel. Wish there was a n/a car around with a manual rack that I could try out. Oh well. :(
 
its not bad. the only time you notice it is parrel parking or other times when you are turning without the car moving. it will be more of a pain with the smaller wheel because the steering effort will be more. basicly think of the steering wheel as a lever. the longer it is the easier it is to turn so a small wheel is harder to turn.

btw it will depend on your tires too. im running 225/45R17's on 17x7 wheels
 
well what about your personal opinion? i know i dont parallel park at all and i always park in the back of all parking lots in hopes no one messes up my car even more. would you do it if that was the situation for you?

thanks
david
 
Is it possible to somehow tear apart a power steering rack and a manual rack and swap some parts to keep the turning ratio the same? Or would it make it even harder to turn? Maybe the parts don't match up. I dunno. Just a thought.
 
dnhieu said:
well what about your personal opinion? i know i dont parallel park at all and i always park in the back of all parking lots in hopes no one messes up my car even more. would you do it if that was the situation for you?

thanks
david


i have one in my car. when i had the small steering wheel it was harder so i took off the small one and put on a stock size one
 
A smaller steering wheel will magnify the problem, by causing even more turns. This is why a lot of older cars with manual steering have huge "bus sized" steering wheels. ROFL

Anyhow, to my recollection from the last time I searched, is that the manual rack requires 1.3 more turns to go lock to lock. THIS IS SIGNIFICANTLY MORE!

Frankly, parking lots are a major bi***, especially with one hand. very fast turns at low speed are a big pain in the ass, and I wouldn't recommend this for autox.

Once you're up at a good speed, turning is not hard at all, and the extra feedback & weight are nice. The steering IS heavy. I do not think that the manual rack would be a bad choice for hot lapping at a track- as the course is faster, and the turns aren't autox slalom tight. Winding through the backroads out near my place is no problem with steering.

Cliffs:

Lowspeed is tough
not good for autox
steering is nicely linear
steering is heavier
parallel parking sucks

For what it's worth, if you want to get rid of the god awful variable rate shit, there is an article on the VFAQ to take care of that without eliminating power steering.

I like mine, and I run 235/45-17 Advans. steering IS HEAVY. ;)


---

Also, I wanted to note that Mitsubishi has not built this rack in quite a few years. The only way to find it is to buy it from a junkaryd, or a ring & pinion rebuild place that happens to have one. The junkyard route is better, since if you buy a nice shiny rebuilt one, they'll bone you on the core charge as well, since you don't have one to give them.
 
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