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ECMlink 02 is not cycleing...

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DSM's 4 life

10+ Year Contributor
649
14
Nov 13, 2011
Buffalo, New_York
I had a AEM Eugo wide-band in my car and I could never get it to read correctly i just got fed up trying to run in in the front location so i went out and bought a new 02 for the front location and moved the wide band in the rear so I do not have to worry about simulating it. Her is my log as you can see my o2 is not cyleing any help is greatly appreciated Thanks.

This is for my 2g btw mods include
fuel:
bosh 44 fuel pump with rewire
FIC 550cc injectors
fuel-lab AFPR 43 psi

ECM V.3 full
3'' gm maf
ecm maf cable
aem eugo wideband
comp 1 cams

Full exhaust
stainless steel headers
20g turbo internally gated
hks ssq bov
front mount with short
 

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Yes, you'll need a multimeter. You set it to Ohms and then touch the pin at the ECU with one lead and the pin in the plug in the engine bay with the other lead. It should ready a very small number, which will show that there's very little resistance between the two points (i.e. the wire is good).
 
Yes, you'll need a multimeter. You set it to Ohms and then touch the pin at the ECU with one lead and the pin in the plug in the engine bay with the other lead. It should ready a very small number, which will show that there's very little resistance between the two points (i.e. the wire is good).

The value reads .3
 
.3 seems high. I would expect a .0x reading, not something in the tenths place. Are you sure that you got a good solder joint?

they were twist connections I just went through and used solder and heat shrink tube the value read the same.

I tested the positive and negative wires as well I am getting power at the plug in the engine bay.

could it be a setting in Direct Access?
 

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If your wideband is reading right then your running super rich, you also have zero voltage coming from the front o2.
You either have a bad sensor or a bad connection, the only thing i see wrong in your log is your tps adjustments but that wont make the o2 not work.
 
I found a wire loose near my ecu turned out to be a maf wire blue and yellow I think it was pin 71.
I soldered and heat shrinked that i was certin that was my issue but still no o2 cycleing take a look at my new log for some reason the computer keeps adding 29% fuel to my ratio even though I am running a 11.0 ration
 

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Try going back to the stock maf and reset the maf compensation.

Do you have any fans?

why are you setting your idle so hi?

readjust your throttle position sensor to .63 volts without the offset and scale.

why do you have the airflow clamp on?
 
I don't have a stock maf.
I have spal slim fans and a custom radiator shroud
What should I set my idle at my car shakes a lot
My tps sensor is maxed out to change the value I have to move my TB idle screw
Dident notice I had maf clamp on
 
I would check your fans or something because your coolant temp is pretty high.
I dont know the specs of your cams to tell you a good target idle.
Why/How is your TPS maxed out?

I believe your problem is the MAF adjustments along with the deadtime of your injectors.

I dont know what the deadtime for FIC 550s normally are but its gotta be higher than 20u

Try setting a higher deadtime like 180u and read these things well.

v3mafadjcombft [ECMTuning - wiki]
quickieafsetup [ECMTuning - wiki]
GMAF Calibration for LTFT
 
I am not sure my tps sensor is set as far as it will go and it wasent far enough so I had to open the throttle more to set it right. You think I need a new tps?
 
You may need to pull it off and reset the throttle plate on your TB to were it normally is, and put the tps back on with the plug towards the left in the center and you should be at a zero type adjustment then move it left or right to get .63 volts.

i cant really explain it any different unless your doing it backwards or the sensor is broken.

Here is a visual reference from jafro [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TccGNg-vb8g]Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off - YouTube[/ame]
 
You may need to pull it off and reset the throttle plate on your TB to were it normally is, and put the tps back on with the plug towards the left in the center and you should be at a zero type adjustment then move it left or right to get .63 volts.

i cant really explain it any different unless your doing it backwards or the sensor is broken.

Here is a visual reference from jafro Tuning 101 - tuning with the car off - YouTube

I understand what you are saying but when I loosen the screws to make adjustments I need to turn the sensor more to the right but It will not turn anymore.
 

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Have you pulled it off and inspected it?
 
Yeah absoluteley looks visually fine and measures out ok.

I reset the tb and removed the inner brass pieces so it would allow me to move it more. The tps is still over the furthest it will go thankfully resting on was .63 I will see how she runs in the morning. But I am still looking for a set of stock injectors so I know the dead time on them exactly.
 

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when I adjust my biss screw and maff comp should I ground the timing connector? I seem to get it dead on but as soon as i ungrounded the connector my isc and airflow per rev become off
 
I have never personally done it that way or even heard it being done that way.
 
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