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01 lexus IS300 4g63 swap/track car build

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So I got more work done on the firewall. I also mated the transmission back to the engine, and tried installing the pair again. Unfortunately, I have to cut out more of the transmission tunnel. That will be done in the next day or two. Anyways, here are the current pics of the firewall.


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Here is a little teaser. I got started on the transmission mount today. Honestly, I am thinking that the transmission will weigh as much as the assembled engine (minus accessories and manifolds). Currently the engine and transmission are sitting on mounts, and held up by nothing else.

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Last week a friend came by the shop to work on his is300. He then decided to help me start gutting my doors. He left me with the finish work on the front passenger door. We even cut out the bar. But do not worry, it is getting nascar bars like the posche 914 I am building. Also the glass will be replaced with lightweight lexan. Also the door is a. Little floppy when opening, LOL.

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Is there any update to this thread? I'm in complete and utter awe at the amazing skills of this young man, you and drew are about the equivalent to sir Isaac Newton, Einstein, and Socrates... Sheesh!
 
This buiold is awsome rerally.

i find myself almost looking at my own pictures.

take alook at my buildthread and you find yourself doing the same :)
 
Sorry I haven't updated this often. I have been super busy with work.

This is stuff I have done, but have forgotten to post it online.

Anyways, one of my co-workers got some dry ice to remove the sound detening from his AE86. After he was finished with it, I used it to get what I had left off of my floorboard. It works wonders compared to the chisel and hammer technique I was using. Like usual, here are the pics.

During

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After
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I started making a fuel surge tank, aka swirl pot. It goes between the fuel tank and fuel rail to make sure I get every last drop of fuel, even during hard cornering. I will have 2 low pressure pumps pulling fuel from sumps to be made on the oem gas tank pumping into the swirl pot, and a large high pressure pump after the swirl pot to feed the fuel injectors. That way no matter what, as long as the surge tank has fuel, the car will not get air mixed in. I am running this setup and not a fuel cell, because the race series requires FIA-3 approved cells. Those start at $600, and the blatters need to be replaced every 2 years. This works without having to be "serviced". plus the weight of the fuel will be lower and more centered.

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The EFI pump will go next to the pot, more centered in the spare tire well.

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And it complete

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Next in my long lost pics is is300 vs sawzaw.

Who makes the T56 bell housing?

Bill from Bills auto fab
 
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The original plan was to deal with the suspension later. Before the car drove, but after most of the chassis fabrication. This plan changed when a good friend (stancel) decided to try to drift up the rumble strips at road atlanta. That did not end well for anyone.

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I donated my good suspension to him. He replaced the items that he broke that I do not plan on upgrading (axle, hub). The toe and trac links both got damaged on the driver's side. That gave me the incentive (car is stuck on jackstands) to get the car rolling again, literally.

For this, I contacted the guys at allstar performance (big in dirt track). I know other companies make these products complete, but this way is just more fun :)

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It took a few orders to determine exactly what I needed, but I finally got everything. The toe rod was fairly simple, just assemble the parts. I might have to ream out the tapered hole on the hub a little because I ordered 1.5" per foot taper rods, and the stock ones are 1.33" per foot taper. They fit close, but not quite perfect. The trac rods required cutting off the old mount and transferring that over. The chopsaw, and tig welder made short work of that job. Here are the finished ones next to the oem ones.

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Here is everything complete, also are the sway bar endlinks I ordered.

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I started stitch welding the car. It is the biggest PITA on this project for multiple reasons. First, ALL of the factory sealer must be removed, not just on the outside of the factory edges, but inside all the cracks as well. Some people use heat guns, but I prefer a wire wheel. This method is a lot messier, but gets the job done quickly. Then a pick to get in all the groves and remove the little bits by hand. A smaller wire wheel preps the area for welding. Here is a pic of the mess.


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And some close-ups of the prep process.

Before:

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Ready for welding

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The last step in this process is welding; I decided to do approx 1" dashes instead of dots. It is just easier once started to continue the weld.

Here are the completed pictures. As you can tell, I have done less than ¼ of the car, and this took 6 hours so far.

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