Well to start off. I usually check for codes. And its had the same ones for months. [02 sensor and 4 gear ratio]I haven’t check the timing and yes it turns on and is able to drive but then turns off again a couple feet
Selling my GST . Need it gone asap. Runs great , I'll keep it clean all the time. Inside and engine Bay also clean. Green paint job. Engine gold and chrome. . Under glow. And green LEDs inside. Loud sound system. Greddy data link tuner. ,baer brake system. 850 cc injectors. Fuel lab pressure...
Do you have a log of its last moments?You've said nothing about what you've troubleshooted on your own.Have you checked mechanical timing?If it's good, does it turn over? Does it attempt to start but can't stay running? Do you have enough volts from the battery to start?There's a...
Alright where in the FSM are the tourqe specs for this. I've searched almost every section. Half tempted to just leave it off at this point since I was already considering deleting the power steering.
I know this is an old post but i got some spyder seats and did that ..
I wanted to know what is different.
So if anybody want to do that here is a tutorial:Open the zipper in the back and pull the rusty clamps off.Fold back the leather on the side and take the 2 screws out on each side, to...
A magnet won't pickup aluminum bearing. Instead cut open your oil filter and drain/inspect the oil.I'm not able to hear it but HLAs or a loose timing belt tensioner can also tick.
Did this. So stoked.Got it all torqued in and loctited(Crank bolts) and ready to rock. On my next day off I'll get the trans stabbed in, everything topped with fluids, and ready to rock 'n' roll, bleed the slave too.Do the interior electronics work like auto seatbelts and fan...
Well, I was determined to get something done today because my thread chaser/tap kit came in, and honestly...I should've bought one of these years ago. WD-40 soaked for a couple days and a good chaser makes short work of old red loctite. Like it was never there. Bolts thread in and out like...
I realized that I don’t have the time to do what I want to this car and I’d hate to let it sit or crush it. I haven’t washed or done much to it if anyone needs a surface rust chassis for a racecar.
Well today i drove to tre and chatted with my good friend for over 20 years now when he built my first transmission. We talked about life and transmissions, i to see what he was working, on and arranged to drop off the transmission this summer for some work to do it. We had a great talk...
The 17-02 log looks pretty decent.
I've been looking at the part after the throttle blip where the rpm gets down into the 700's at 8.4 seconds.
At the same place the wideband gets maxed out full lean (even more than maxed out - it hits 4.14 raw volts LOL)
Maybe you could say that it's all weak...
I wouldn’t have used the fluid film I’ve seen bad things in testing after that was used. I suggest the Eastwood internal frame rail coating, it changes the rust molecularly. Either way great job and keep it up love the build progress!
I picked up my transmission Monday. Some small rod wasn't aligned or fell out of place. The shop moved it over and it started .moving smoothly. I'm waiting for these pics.I installed it Tuesday, and ordered an inline filter wit a .075 restrictor for my fp green. I had to pick up an AN female...
With summer approaching, I'm excited to present a rare opportunity: a hard-to-find 5-speed manual transmission for a 1997-1999 GSX. This transmission was meticulously removed from a working car by a technician, ensuring that is shifts. It's 100% stock and is being sold in "as is" condition.
Not a fun post but I'm needing some help diagnosing a very weird knocking sound coming from my recently rebuilt engine.6 bolt, 2g head, wiseco Pistons, k1 eagle h beam, rest of the internals are factory.Rebuilt myself and besides refining the tune it's been running great as I've been putting...
Been a little while again since I’ve updated. Managing two shops has my free time a bit tied up these days! But I finally got a twin disc clutch for this upcoming race season thanks to my amazing fiancé. Should be getting the clutch and my new built bottom end in the car asap then it’s party time💪🏻🏁
The 2G sensor cannot be used with the 1G knock board on a DSM factory ECU. On an AEM 'puter, I'm sure they have the ability to use either with settings tweaks, but it's not PnP for us with ecmlink.
I'm looking for a tuner around North Florida that knows what they're doing when it comes to dsm's I've already had 2 bad experiences with a tuner causing an engine rebuild any help would be appreciated
It looks like at least the first year of the 3rd Gen utilized the same knuckle as the 2g. As far as when they switched to a larger pin is anybody's guess but we know enough to skip the early 3g and concentrate on the later years.E56A, EA3A and EA8A are a mid 90s to mid 2000s Galant so...
From what I understand, the 2G sensor is better and picks up knock a lot better than a obd1 era sensor but we do not like to use them because they read better and most likely need a standalone to play with the knock counter. There’s an old thread and a AEM engineer explained it to a dsmtalk...
Who did you talk to, was it David? I have called them before, but a long time ago, about my HX40 BEP housing and its bad threads. They worked with me very well. He sent me the display unit. :thumb:
I already list it and sold one to a 3G chap. this was based on someone showing me their shock pin which match and that's why i said about i wonder when they swapped over. if they adjusted it in 2001 then they may not work so i will have to check into this more now and possibly remove them from...
Finally took the measurement on the hydraulic tensioner and the average of the measurements was 3.5mm so I'm 0.3mm under the minimum acceptable range. Probably going to reset the tensioner system and do it based off the pin AND the micrometers.