A modified 16g with a 20g compressor wheel isn’t a 16g, at that point it’s a td05 20g. If you already have it and it’s working just keep it.

NGK br7es (non protruding tip) would be the plug you want to go with. Br6es is the original plug and at that low of boost from that small of a turbo you’d probably be fine, but the 7 wouldn’t hurt and would be my go to in that case.Edit: in 19 years of doing this I’ve never heard of the bkr...

What parts are you ordering that require the size of the actual hole? The lower insulator’s and Orings are listed on the vendor sites per application and the o rings can be had at the parts store in a Felpro box by simply looking up the application if a standard Denso style injector is being...

Did not know that! Last I knew no one was left selling them, either way I know they want $1k for a brand new 16g which is fair for what it is but still pointless when Justin Whitesell can build one better than new for half of that. Don’t know if he’ll even mess with the t28 or has any cores...

If you don’t care about keeping it much more than stock then just don’t waste the money. A t28 or 16g isn’t going to make a big difference running it where the stock ecu and fuel system would be happy without upgrading, age by itself isn’t going to cause enough issues to replace the turbo. If...

If you’re planning to stay with a 16g then a ported 2g manifold or ported evo 3 manifold (hard to find these days) is the best matched. The FP race manifold is a nice piece, but the runners are a tad bit large for stuff like the 14b and 16g being they’re geared towards the heavier hitting bolt...

You can indeed use a 7cm turbine housing from a 16g. You can rob one from a blown China 16g pretty cheap along with the adjustable wastegate actuator and it’s a nice cheap upgrade over the 6cm housing. Also the 6cm turbine housing is notorious for cracking with age, I haven’t seen one in many...

I believe they called it as so as it’s near or the same specs as a true Garrett gtx3584rs, however they’ve since changed the name to psr3584 (also call their gtx3582r a psr3582, etc) so I do believe Garrett got on to them for their naming of their clones however still the same unit and I’ve seen...

That turbo you seen listed as such is a Chinese copy of an authentic Mitsubishi Heavy Industries 16g. For 180 bucks they’re like any other Chinese turbo, they’ll work until they don’t. There’s a few used authentic MHI 16g’s for sale on the classifieds here right now for fair market price...

If your goals are around 300ish you can pick up a stock 2g manifold for about that and a used authentic 16g that bolts right on for about the price of a China turbo like mentioned would get you there with proper support and bolting to the car like it’s meant to be there. Cheap knockoff t3...

I can’t tell you for sure, I’d guess Garrett style, however Pulsar does sell the flange by itself

This! If the compressor wheel didn’t contact the housing you might get away with banging some new seals and bearings in it and lining everything back up, but 9 times out of 10 they’re gone beyond what just tossing some new parts in it can do. Have it serviced correctly if that’s the case or...

If you’re going to be using ecmlink just control boost with an ingersol rand solenoid. All of the control of an expensive electronic boost controller built into your ecu at a fraction of the price.

Holset’s are still a good selection depending on the user’s goals, the problem is they caught on with ours and other platforms and it drove the prices up combined with certain turbine housings being much harder to obtain now that those housings are out of production. In the late 2000’s when...

Without digging deeper I would also take a look at the throttle body as a potential culprit, s90’s are known for leaking right out of the box and I almost wonder if the throttle plate isn’t dragging on something in the stock intake manifold upon returning to its closed position. I’ve seen a...

Do keep in mind I mentioned using the stock turbo ecu in my comment and the limitations I found, however I should’ve been clear that I was monitoring with a data logger and of course a wideband gauge. I should have reiterated if not a method to tune at the least you SHOULD monitor with a logger...

Mine had 110k on it when I put the first turbo set up on it and 130k on it when the great oil filter incident occured. After the first season I had no critical problems, however I still pulled the head over the winter and deep cleaned it and did a fresh Felpro composite head gasket and new...

I did it, made over 400 at the wheels on the stock non turbo bottom end for 3 seasons and 20k street miles. Last time it was on the dyno it made 454 on pump gas on a 63mm Borg Warner, never got to go back and turn it up on e85 but had every intention of throwing 600ish at the stock non turbo...

Seems more as you need to look at goals over a horsepower number, and are you planning to switch turbos in and out when you go to the track or you mean you’re looking to move on from the hx35? What kind of time and trap speed are you looking for? On my buddys 1g we have seen as high as 893 at...

They’re the same Chinese knockoff 16g as every other Chinese knockoff on eBay and Amazon.

Not to get off topic but that essentially tells us the hd3582 and it’s branded otherwise counterparts would indeed work in the old bolt on fp35 housing, which I always figured so as I had seen the “Pulsar” 3076 in an fp30 housing before but couldn’t confirm the 35r stuff.

That I couldn’t tell you, what I can tell you is they’re some cheap ching chong specials that were laying in @goonie90gsx ‘s garage I threw on it when I took off the 16g and had to be able to clear the hx35 I was using at the time.

My large runner t3 set up with the s300 cover fit without moving the radiator and keeping the alternator in the stock position (I actually had it relocated and moved it back). I had 2 slim fans as pullers on the turbo side as well. Picture of my old set up below straight from their site to...

I can’t speak on AC, hasn’t been on my car in 9 years, however I will say even with a massive Borg Warner s300 compressor cover the Morrison’s made sure of good fitment to where I still had plenty of room for slim fans and no denting of my water pipe. I don’t see AC having been an issue on that...

At that point go with a t3 set up and keep all your options open. At the cost of the zero and the Morrison fab set up you would be just as involved as going with any number of t3 flanged turbos that are just as capable or more capable than the zero and for as well as Morrison does their t3...

I’m with Marty, all I’ve ever done is bend them slightly, no way to clock it that I’m aware of.

Actually this isn’t 100% correct. Fuel cut IS NOT a reliable fail safe when going to a bigger turbo and/or more boost on a stock ecu and fuel system. You can easily run out of fuel pump with the stock pump before you hit fuel cut when you start messing with turbo’s like a 16g or t28, and even...

Running either option on wastegate pressure will be fine on the stock injectors, however keep in mind the precautions to prevent boost creep.

It’s hard to beat the fun of a 16g cranked to all it will blow, but the hx35 in twin scroll configuration is a hoot! As someone else said, I’d definitely get the run down on the set up as that could be a bit on the steep end for it.

Same injectors and turbo, no real difference mechanically. There’s a few guys on here that know the ins and outs a bit better but if I had to guess they didn’t put all the emissions crap on it that was required other places so they came up with that rating. Not to be negative but to be...

When Phil Beers was chasing 14b times I want to say he went deep 12s if not as quick as 11s on the stock rubber intercooler hoses, so that says a lot of us have technically over killed it lol. This makes me say 2” would be plenty sufficient.

Will it be laggier with what you have now? Yes. Being a 16g and it spools quick as it is will it be a hinderance or even noticeable? No.Being you plan to run e85 people often overlook a sidemount is going to go a bit further than it would with pump gas, but to run the 16g turned all the way...

That compression ratio seems high for even an na sohc 4g63, I know the earlier dohc ones like the ones I use are 9:1 compression and if I remember reading certain single cam 4g64’s bump up to something along that lines when used with the dohc heads but that’s not something I’ve really dug into...

That is the stock “t25” that comes on 2g’s, several have had working used ones posted for under $100 so make a WTB ad for a stock 2g turbo and someone will likely reach out to you.

A blow off valve is a blow off valve, it works or doesn’t, if you want it louder for whatever reason you’d dump it to the atmosphere, but being you’re using a stock draw through style maf that’s not a possibility without causing issues right now. Has nothing to do with how built the engine is...

Im no turbo guru but if I recall this is essentially a journal bearing version of an old school 35r. Specs aside there’s a few issues here. One being your 660cc injectors aren’t going to be enough to use this turbo up in its efficiency range, even on pump gas, if you plan to use it you’re...

I can’t speak on a 2g however 1g’s were done the same way. The ground literally ran to a wire shielding (shielded wire) on a factory turbo car, however you don’t have to do it that way. On 1g nt’s we didn’t have this shielded ground to get into, therefore when I didn mine I ran the ground wire...

I would for cheap reassurance. Felpro composite gasket and standard ARP’s will go a long way. Might not be necessary to do studs for your goals but it’s a good “why not while you’re in there anyway” type of deal.

It doesn’t get much simpler than a 16g, that was the first turbo I bolted on to the ol faithful na 4g63 and was also the most fun.

Keep in mind to use a timing belt for the DOHC 4g64 you need the cam gears from a DOHC 4g64, extremepsi used to sell them new for a pretty reasonable price but been a while since I looked, otherwise you need to use adjustable cam gears for a 4g63 and a belt for the 4g63 and use some trickery...

It was an untouched non turbo 6 bolt, didn’t even have the head off before I put the first 16g set up on it at 110k miles. It lived mostly on e85 with the exception of the first set up and the last time it was together. On the s363 it made 454 on 93 octane pump gas, was going to shoot for 600...

You’d be surprised how much they can take when everything is proper. After over 20k miles making over 400 at the wheels my original non turbo pistons are still fine, and the last turbo on it was a 63mm Borg, quite a distance from a 14b let alone the 16g I originally started with. Not saying I...

You’ll notice the 20g might spool a little slower but by no means laggy, however there’s a few things going on here. Biggest I notice is the turbine housing Greddy used on that specific one combined with the manifold leads me to believe that manifold isn’t for a 4g63, along with the horrendous...

I will say my buddy Darren ran a ported 2g manifold with his Green on a Galant GSX, if I recall still had no problem getting it into the high 400s on a heartbreaker Mustang dyno with @coltboostin on the keyboard. The FP manifold is a nice piece as you already know but I can’t say I’d feel like...

While not with the Green I’ve ran them back to back with a 16g and the difference from the driver seat isn’t noticeable. I’d say if you have the ported 2g job already and it isn’t cracked throw that bad Johnson on it, difference won’t likely be noticeable from the driver seat and definitely not...

To put it into perspective, guys are going 8s on the felpro composite. In short if you don’t know 100% your surface finish on the head will be proper composite is what you want.

Don’t focus so much on compression. On a turbo in that class for a street car compression isn’t going to be a deal breaker, and unless you’re using e85 or race gas much more compression will just make it harder to tune. Also unless you’re having the head resurfaced that isn’t the head gasket...

That’s what I have sitting here from Justin, I’m a fan of the turbine housing they come with with a little work, however no porting on the wastegate passage on this one, built with the intent to maintain higher boost.

If you’re buying it new it should include a new 1g style oil feed line, if not you need to look for a stock 1g oil feed line and banjo bolts to feed it that way from the head or an aftermarket braided line. Also can feed from the oil filter housing with the proper restrictor, however being the...

I’m just curious as to where the 700 horsepower dsm black figure and 800 horsepower zero figure come from unless we’re talking estimated crank horsepower, as I’ve never seen those turbos make that on a dsm on a generous dyno let alone a Mustang dyno? Seriously as soon as the X turbo will make X...