I would recomend checking the early 90s stuff, alot of vehicles had air powered locking hubs.

you can get an entire 4 bolt rear end for 300 bucks if you go to a good yard and have 'em look on the net. theres nothing wrong with buying the MT gearset but last time I checked, about a year ago - there were only 23 rear end gearsets left at the DSM stockhouse up in Michigan. You'll pay a...

just for instance: a big jacked up bronco has selectable 4WD.... you have IN/OUT which controlls the output to the front axle. This is all fine and dandy but the entire rotating assymbly in the front end STILL moves... this is why trucks have lockout hubs. when you take the vehicle OUT, you...

You may Gain horsepower on a traditional dyno, BUT thoes drivetrain components that you previously SPUN will still have to SPIN... so whats going on is you're trading more drag on the motor FOR a little more horsepower. The physics of it state no gain in speed. Worst case scenario - your load...

Sounds like a good idea... there is one problem tho. Instead of having to use extra power to spin all of that extra weight, You will STILL loose power because it all still spins when you're going down the road. All of that stuff is connected though the tires/axles/rear dif/driveshaft... It...

the throwout bearing ISNT suspsoed to touch the pressure plate when the clutch is out... if you have it constantly touching, it will wear out very very quickly. you should have 1 inch of play in the pedal before you can feel the T/O bearing touching the pressure plate.

dunno? If its a 6 bolt to a 7 bolt swap and your trying to use the 90 flex plate... it wont work... give me PM if you need a 93 flexplate/torque converter/tranny/t-case, ive got one laying around that i'll get rid of cheap.

I like that TRuST one that road race sells... its not very tall and its got some good weight to it.

go buy a galant GSX if your going to do that... its already all wheel drive N/A

If you dont have the double, reference the part number for the gear that the doubles syncros and then reference the single syncro gear... if the gear P/n is the same, go ahead and get the doubles... nice upgrade.

FYI: DSM tranny parts are pretty much all OEM items. all of the forks and such are scavenged from galant GSXs and galant VR4s. i think alot of the double syncro stuff came from evos... If you can actually get part numbers for the stuff - you could probably get this stuff for a good price...

JDM Tranny... thats your problem - your center dif welded itsself to... well itsself.AWD tranny info:USDM ratio 4.929JDM ratios GVR4 4.929 <--- NOT ALWAYS CORRECT.... GGSX 5.208 Evo 4 5.435I found out...

you need to wrench on them from inside the car under the dash... the cables pull though the firewall into the cabin once done. try 12s first then 14s.

not as much as a 4 bolt.... i get junkyard cost 4 bolts at 300 so i would think 250-275+ their markup...

wow, i forget to look at this thread and it grows crazy: i still cant get over that that shop had to remove the dash to swap the pedals in...

just drive an old willys jeep aorund for a while: you'll get used to your 2600 lb pressure plate force real quick :( I found that shimming the pivot ball and getting forks/fulcrums is the best way to go. if you do it with adjustable rods: you best be VERY very smart with all of this (do the...

well i do it in 30.... minutes that is... I'm sure the flat rate time for replacing spider gears (the same process as putting in a PG unit...) is something like 2-3 hours bench job. you just have to figure out how long it takes them to pull the tranny and all of that goop.too bad your not...

steel forks? ive welded or replaced too many of thoes 'white steel' aluminum numbers to rely on them. how about that 4 spider center dif?... 2nd gear double syncros?...other than that, you seem to have everything correct.the G-vr4 1st gear is crazy (ive got a GVR-4 tranny with a...

i did it for FAR less than a grand total on a 1g AWD...i got a 5 speed ratio 4 bolt rear center unit for 300 - COST price at a junkyard 5 speed tranny/t case was included with my JDM motor. (roughly cost me 300 bucks...) parts tranny to rectify the JDM front wheel final ratio: 350 300...

yeah guys, keep on telling everyone to get 6 puck clutches... ill make a fortune rebuilding trannies over the next few years...now lets mind that i grew up driving old CJ willys jeeps since i was about 8 or so. Ive rebuilt many and we still have quite a few of them... the mechanical clutch...

yeah, the BM unit is nice... both PG and BM use the same material for the plates... just BM could afford to price battle PG since they dont specialize in only thoes units. basicly you can get any strength springs and put them in there from either company tho. im pretty sure they get the...

give me an IM, check your PMs...

take the cover off of both. look at your ring gear (tha big one...) mark one of the teeth (on the side, not on the contact face of the teeth...) with something (white out, a dab of grease, a dot of the white crap they use in JB weld, ... ANYTHING that can be used to keep your place..) and count...

roughly speaking, you take it out, hack it up and weld it together...its not a biggy if youve got a nice miller MIG or a TIG unit... dont attempt with anything less than $2000 welding rig... (in otherwords, if it plugs into the same socket as your hairdryer would, it wont lay a good enough...

"they can get it for 320 plus 150 for install"I do them bench job (you pull it and bring it to me) for 80...installing a PG takes about 30 minutes and is about the same difficulty of say putting a new intake on your car...look at their install instructions for a better idea of how...

the switchables have disable pegs in both the t case and the transmission so that you effictively disable the power flow on both sides of the viscious coupling. if im not mistaken tho, the center dif still spins independant of the VC, tied into the output shaft...its not just the T-case...

i got one with a cracked housing/good internals for 300 bucks (and plenty of other cheap ones +-100 bucks or so...). im sure you could get a local shop to swap the innards so you get 1 good tranny and a bunch of extra parts for an additional 100 or so (bench job...). if your somewhat...

bearings on the right rear side of the car need replacing... try the outer bearings first but keep in mind that it may be the right carrier bearing in the dif...

were the new pedals 'good'? did you shim the pivot ball? i hate to be a broken record but i see this post daily.

lol: flywheel bolts are 80 ft-lbs locktite, pressure plate is 20 ft lbs locktite... anyway: is your pedal ok.... is your shift fork ok.... did you shim your pivot ball? these are all possible problems.

only real difference: pedals are somewhat different since they are 2 piece.

*cough cough* pivot ball shim *cough cough*... as we speak, im doing this to a FWD with the exact same problem

to check your clearance... put your foot on your pedal and barely press it down... it should move about an inch or so untill it has any real feel. you can also crack the bleeder screw on your slave and back the plunger all the way back into the cylinder and shake the fork manually to see if...

improper backlash in your rear end <-- makes noise when the ring/pinion pull the car instead of vice versa - the problem is the trailing side of your ring has some wear in it thats causing noise. could be catastrophic, would recomend pulling atleast the pan off the rear dif and checking for...

Did you shim your pivot ball with a washer when you put it all back together? that should help out alot... also, push your clutch pedal down to the floor, let off of it, stick your foot BEHIND the pedal and pull it up towards you. did it move any? if so you've got a problem there too, you'll...

You'll need a tranny, a shifter, shift cables, clutch/brake pedal assembly, clutch master, clutch slave, (Upper clutch line, flex hose, lower clutch line <-- you can make your own of these 3 items...), something ot cut sheetmetal with.if you pull your motor out, its a piece of cake...

you'll need some specific parts if your gona take apart your tranny... i wouldnt recomend trying to take out your syncro unless you know what your doing and you have:bearing press and accessories like a bearing plate, brass hammer, holdin pin punch/drift, circular wedge punch, brass drift...

good deal, they'll have to warranty thoes installs if they screw up. break that clutch in lightly dood.

Parts store... im pretty sure they're 10 MM grade 8 black bolts... they should say 7.6 (is that the right number? either way they'll give you the right bolts that are Grade 8) on the head. take an old bolt up there and compare... any parts store should keep em and they'll give em to you for...

dont the calipers off of the hubs, just take the little bolt out of the back of the strut tower so it can hang on the lower arm.DONT directly pull on the axle shafts.beer...its a ##### to pry out the snapped in passengerside drive axle.use jackstands so you dont get 'teh crush'...

its not an ACT part, i cant remember the manufacturer...why does it matter? that bearing will hold out longer than your transmission will if your using ACT clutches (laugh). i wouldnt worry about it.

invest in a limited slip. i imagine drag radials could send you into a wall easy with torque steer.

err... safety mode is usually 2nd gear... did you replace your tranny ECU?

its nothing... all thoes parts move around freely... its just when you shift into gear, you couple them. when its cold, they arent lubed and dont 'slip' around the pinion shaft like they normaly do. you could have one with a tight bearing BUT i wouldnt worry to much about this unless it...

only way to do that would be to write down the VIN and take it to a mitsu dealer, but theres a chance they cant tell you anyway...if your gona swap the tranny, you might as well pull it out and check the splines and such...

ive got 3 bad cases (2 of them are in the mail).... going to make 2 good transmissions, keeping one for my car. give me a PM and ill give you a descent price once they're all done.

eclipse GS: 1.8 liter with the 22 modle 5 speed the 22 modle also came in a few other mitsu cars with the 1.8s... eclipse GS: 2.0 liter with the 33 modle 5 speed eclipse GS-T: 2.0 liter with the 33 modle 5 speedthat clear it up? these wont interchange... the bellhousing/case is completely...

the transmission wont work, ive rebuilt both and they have a different bell housing, gearing, final drive, etc etc... as we like to say.. its no bueno.

sounds like master seals are bad and arnet holding the pressure unless you push em hard enough to get a good seal.