They are “like” the 90-92 transmissions, so because of that they are stronger. But they have synchros of old transmissions, so shifting isn’t great…

I must agree with you, I am used to seeing around .600” at the slave cylinder. Perhaps that .400” number is a bit high?

I am getting 60mm and 108mm for 1.8 ratio.So if we need .400” on clutch side, we would need .720” on the slave cylinder side.

Using these numbers, I am getting the following overall ratiosDSM 8.16:1 TR7 w/.75 master. 4.95:1 <<< 😮 TR7 w/.625 master. 7.13:1No wonder I thought that current effort was ridiculous 😂5/8 master should be much softer, but still stiffer than DSM 🤷‍♂️

As I expected, DSM has much larger pedal ratio than TR7, 5.67:1 vs 4.25:1, which explains why clutch requires so much more effort.I was totally wrong about AWD DSM data (that is what I get for being lazy and getting numbers on line, instead of measuring them myself). Slave cylinder is .75”...

Thank you for the Y value!I stole that image off the net, it should be the way you measured it and not a vertical projection. But it is close enough to get the point across ;)Do you also happen to have the pedal around to get X value?

Paul, I have narrowed it down to the pedal ratio.I have Bill’s T5 bell housing with Supra slave cylinder (.81, same as DSM) and 3/4 Wilwood master cylinder (vs .81 on DSM).So I have some mechanical advantage and yet, my ACT 2600 feels much stiffer! That leaves pedal ratio ;)

Has anyone ever figured out 1G or 2G clutch pedal ratio?I am trying to figure out why ACT2600 pedal is so hard on my TR7 project.

Tim, I guess I am lazy, but I ALWAYS ID transfer cases by counting the turns ;).

You can't be off by 45 degrees, I am not sure you are doing this right...

Bad or poorly bled hydraulics will show up as very low clutch engagement and/or grinding gears.But a badly adjusted clutch can cause clutch to slip. It will also engage unusually high. Can you collapse your slave cylinder if you push on it with your thumb?

Stubbie that goes into the diff (and break) is also larger. So you also need to upgrade the diff.But parts are you currently using?

Driving, at just about any speed.

I can roll the car on the ground, so it is probably a matching transfer case. I am just trying to find a source of grinding sound...

Has anyone actually driven on mismatched tranny/tcase? I am getting some strange notices and I am wondering if accidentally mixed them up?I am using a VC, a spool or VCE would probably make wheels bind-up.

I did FWD Auto to AWD 5sp swap on my Spyder. That is a lot of work. I would simply fix the broken transmission...

Transfer case has a disengaging gear, in the rear output shaft. I used those extensively in the late 90's/early '00. Mostly because I HATED driving around with a locked center diff! And I used it for the FWD dyno.Trying to set boost in FWD mode was interesting. My 600hp Talon would spin...

I just measured three clutch assemblies I have in my garage:ACT 2100 w/ACT FW 22.8lbs PTT w/QM FW 15.6lbs OS Giken twin 31.6lbs.I was shocked by OS Giken weight! This is the sprung hub, 700ft*lbf torque rating twin clutch!!!That sounds PERFECT! If only it came in 6 bolt...

Any updates on this improved hydraulic system?I would like to point out that greater travel will come at a cost of even heavier pedal feel. People are already complaining about 2600/2900 for street use, they are not going to like even more required force.If you have to make single disc...

Sorry, I missed that with that talk of rear end ;). But once you start talking loosing plugs, that can happen on anything.I once seized a rear end about 2 miles from my house, when I forgot to refill it... Well, I didn't forget, I asked my friend who sold it to me and he assured me it was...

Have you confirmed what it was?99% of time, such symptoms are caused by transfer case (it has the least amount of oil and had tendency to leak from the driveshaft yoke - NOT a good combination!).

I guess AWS pump on your GVR4 will add "some" parasitic losses, but it is not even worth mentioning ;).Do the swap! DSM LSD is not great, but stronger axles alone, worth the hassle.

I agree, bolt must be fused to the bushing inner race. You will probably have to break the bushing to make it come out. And then replace them.

Remember, my non-LSD axles are of smaller (3 bolt) variety. Also a slight shorter spline on inner side wouldn’t make a difference, as long as you can fully insert it into the diff.

Which measurement do you want? I already gave one above.

That explains the difference in the spline transition area (no undercut)! But they must have also must have used the shorter axle as the model for their axles!Getting back to the original topic, it would appear that longer non-LSD cup should work with the EVO diff.

Here is another perplexing find...http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-non-lsd-rear-axles.480375/An ad for non-LSD 2G axles, do you notice that happen to be different? Aren't they supposed to be same? Anyway, scaling off the photo, looks like Tim had the shorter version and the longer...

Another point of reference, I compared Tim's damaged axle cup to my EVO3 and non-LSD cup. His is clearly shorter AND it is missing the undercut where splines start!

Tim, take a look at my EVO3 axle from Malaysia vs. non-LSD cup from my Summit (which I am assuming the same as DSM non-LSD cup). They are identical (with regard to differential interface).And... they look longer than your damaged axle! Are you sure that you used non-LSD cup?

I just picked up the "last set". Sounds like they keep "finding" more :)

You could always look at competition:https://buschurracing.com/br-cart/rwd-conversions/461-br-6-bolt-4g63-auto-gm-transmission-adapter-plate.html

Locked center diff will make gear mismatch much more obvious. But you might need to pull your transfer case and figure out the ratio.

Externally, they look the same. But ratios are off, ever so much. Just mark it with the sharpie and count ;)

Why Mopar tranny? They are not exactly known for good transmissions..But Bill definitely is THE MAN!

Right, and he was corrected fourteen years ago :)

What is your budget?

That is an annoying part, sometimes it slips right off, other times, it puts up a real fight :). The best method is with a small gear puller, you might have to grind down the jaws to fit in there. But good news is that it is relatively loose.

How bad is the damage? I do not care how good the quality of repair, it is never as good as original car. I would consider using the other shell...

Were front wheels off the ground?

Or a sign of leaving your car in gear ;) To turn in the same direction, the driveshaft must be free to spin.

This a very quick check, can you collapse your slave cylinder with your hand? If you can, your cutch is bad, if you can't your clutch is not properly adjusted.

A leak is how I found out there was a ball, back in 1996 ;). I didn't happen right a way, but it hit me at round 100-150 miles at the race track and it was bad (emptying tranny in just a few minutes)!!!This can vary from person to person, depending on how easily output shaft can move inside...

It sounds like it might be traveling too far. Is it properly adjusted? Can you collapse the slave cylinder with your thumb? Other than clicking, how is does it engage/disengage? It isn't very clear, what do you perceive as a problem here.But I doubt this anything to do with AWD swap, so...

Right, EVERYTHING I said was regarding a 5sp transmissions! Perhaps you will get a more specific automatic advise when you post your question in automatic forum section ;).Out of curiosity, what cracks in automatic center diff?

I do not think that VCE is necessary if you have a welded center diff. Just use one of those sleeves that keeps the ball in place.If fact, the only way they would work together if you weld one part first (ether diff or VC), install VC on the diff and then weld the other part.If you try to...

This is ancient history now :) It all started when Extreme Motorsports talked how they were running 10's on a stock center diff (this was back when that was one of the fastest DSMs in the world). Everyone was calling BS on it so they came out and clarified that they were using a welded viscous...

Actually it does make sense. With VCE, you still sent FWD torque through the spider gears, so they can brake. And this failure is even more likely if you have a worn center diff with excessive play in your gears (very common on used units). Now, they aren't seeing as much load as when you...

So... it just worked... I am not sure how/where convertible top computer gets its information about neutral gear, but switching to 5sp harness provided all the needed wiring! The top works perfectly! I suspect I would have had to do a bunch of custom wiring, had I kept my automatic harness...

The year doesn't matter, you need SOMETHING that would take up the space of that AC bracket, or an actual bracket. I usually stack up the washers to give me an approximately same dimension.

I used to do this all the time! Only instead of zip tying the driveshaft, I used the switchable JDM transfer case! Which make it very easy to do.In fact, I preferred driving in FWD mode over the 4x4 mode!