I can't answer that question, but have you considered just not running the dust shields? As long as you keep the brake lines secured so they won't get close to the rotor you really don't need them.
On those replacement arms, please monitor them. My experience isn't really the same as most cars with all the high g loads I see on the race track but I had a set of arms like those (mine were from Megan Racing but they looked exactly like those except in blue) and their u-shaped brackets...
I think there's enough room behind the engine under the intake manifold for the two shocks and levers, and if not the firewall can probably be clearanced (assuming this is a race car where the interior area by the firewall is pretty much clear). I've mused about doing this but it's not low...
An option is to go back to oem studs and use extended thread lug nuts. If the et lug nut diameter is slightly too large for your wheel's lug holes just enlarge them.
Evo 8/9 rotors are thicker and vented. Es tu problemo.If you need a set, I not only have the used set off my race car (I went to Girodisc two-piece rotors) which really aren't used that much, and a brand new set. Just PM me and we can chat. I keep forgetting to sell these things.
It has been a reeeeeally long time since I did this, probably 16 years. I believe I did the install from the driver's side, not the passenger, and that might give you better angles to rotate the bar into place. I am pretty sure I didn't drop the longitudinal cross member or the transfer case...
I have another option for you, IF you still have the OEM front way bar. The car handles better with the OEM from and RM rear. For the OEM front energy suspension does have a direct replacement poly bushing though I can't recall the part number.Guessing you don't still have that part but...
Bobby makes a great point I totally forgot about. Chassis stiffness. The Evo is light years stiffer than a stock Eclipse. We have wet noodles, the Evo is solid. It's welded like hundreds of times more than ours is (not exaggerating here). Really hugely noticeable even the first time I drove...
Wait, you're in Blacksburg? Come to VIR in Alton, VA May 19-21 for the UTCC and Hyperfest. I'll be there, you can pick my brain then. I'll have an air conditioned garage, should be nice :)
I owned an Evo IX MR for ten years, sold it last November only because I wasn't driving it. Your criticisms are valid. The Evo is a wonderful car and it's a bit perplexing that it drives so damned well when its design to my uneducated eye appears to be worse, yet it isn't worse at all but...
The short answer for your own safety is no. Long answer is that it can be up to a point, and while I found that point personally on my car in racing (i.e. I started damaging the unprotected lines with heat), I don't know anything about your car and couldn't really guess when it will become an...
Just eliminate them and secure your brake lines so they don't go near the rotor. If you do any track events also shield the brake lines (I use high temp rubber hose covered in reflective tape, secured with metal ties).
Theoretically if the welding was done well, especially in the proper orientation, and the bushing there for the a-arm is intact, then everything could work fine for a time. There's no way to know though by just pictures. It definitely could be degrading and knocking around though, or the...
I'm not typical, but my experience may still be relevant but you must be the judge for yourself.When my car was a street car and I moved from OEM brakes to Stoptech 328mm front brakes there was a very noticeable difference in braking power. This would be similar to what you get with an Evo...
and I had Stoptech calipers for an Eclipse on front (eclipse piston sizing), with Evo 9 rear calipers, and my brakes worked just fine in a racing environment for years. No longer have the Stoptechs as I moved to Evo X front brakes but the datapoint kinda shoots a hole in the theory here.edit...
I really didn't like the power bleeder myself. Can't recall what solution I had for the cap problem as I used that like... 14 years ago. The whole thing was kludgy to use.To keep my life simple I use a simple brake fluid bottle that hangs from my caliper and has check valve between the...
Well, if you have already done all that investigation and D2 won't do the work, won't tell you if the parts are readily available (i.e. standard parts found in other shock brands) to fix the leak, and you can't disassemble the shock and figure it out yourself, I can put you in touch with an...
Hey folks, I need a measurement of an oem 2g front knuckle. I'd like to know the thickness in millimeters of the metal between the hub seat on the outside and the bolt seat on the inside side for the bolt hole pictured below (arrow points to where I'd like the measurement). I'd make the...
You resume is absurd and how you could recommend this to the low budget novice users of this site is beyond me Have you ever changed tire sizes or brands, or even driven and tuned for more than one track? You have got to be full of shit here.
I'm pretty sure the set on my race car are from RTM as of earlier last year (had some ones from Robispec prior that were suspect). There's really not much to them beyond the spherical bearing wearing out. The machining was spot on and exactly what I needed. I'm using them with KW V3...
Aw no caster. Pewp. Still might be a backup for when I run out of ball joints :D Just need to know the camber adjustment range as it's not even listed.Thanks for sharing this, had no idea these came out.
That's a good question, and any testimony on this requires numbers on wheel specs including offset and camber adjustment, and even to a small degree the exact tire used since dimensions vary despite the spec.I was using Kumho Ecsta Supra 712 tires in 255/35/18 on 18x8.5" with a 35mm offset...
Changing the compression range of the shock completely changes the discussion. I guess that's an option but I think it's cutting one corner for another.
255/35 on 8.5 is a good fit, but only for the wheel. It is very difficult to fit that under oem fenders without a huge amount of camber. Huge as in detrimental to handling. It took fender flares before they fit for me, otherwise they would rub quite a bit in the front on full compression, and...
I use girodisc magic pads. Barely any dust, no squeal 99% of the time, and I like the stopping power for the street. My previous favorites were axxis metal master and axxis ultimate pads, but depending on how long you've had a dsm you may have never heard of them. They were really good street...
There isn't any trick really. They are held in by friction alone. It's really a crappy design as they can come out as you're noticing.Many years ago I did read about someone that drilled some REALLY tiny holes in the pointed tips so they could safety wire them in place, but I haven't ever...
It does matter if you want the system to work as designed in the event of a failure. The system is designed to have diagonals connected so that in the event of a line failure you still have one front brake and and one rear brake as well as one on each side.
Impact wrench man. Time to spend and get yourself a nice one. If not that then the obvious "use a big f'ing breaker bar" is your only recourse. Of course I assume you're spraying PB Blaster in there, and if not better get that too.Once the nut/bolt on the fork is loosened you still may have...
Less camber, axle may no longer fit, sway bar might not fit, lower motion ratio (which means you theoretically would need to change spring rates for the ideal setup) are my immediate thoughts.
The op is not talking about the pad shims at all. Watch the video at the times in question. I suspect he's talking about those little guides of the pads. I can't remember the names of those things, but yes you need them. I have no idea if they can be ordered separately though, nor if they...
Springs have nothing to do with your problem. There are going to be times you're going to fully compress your springs (assuming you keep reasonable rates and usable-lengths of bump stops). You need to have complete clearance of the fender during the full range of motion of your tires.
Go to a smaller sidewall like 35 and run bad camber, like -1.5 to -2. Isn't ideal for handling but that should allow it to fit. It's the combo that got 245/35/18 on 18x8.5 +35 to fit for me in the rear. You might try the camber first to see if you can sneak in the 40 sidewall.
Yeesh... ABS can do quite a bit to help when sliding in a "storm" and its purpose is for exactly those types of conditions where you've lost traction and need to regain it by allowing the wheels to turn again (restoring the static contact patch).Ice isn't really relevant here when talking...
A great driver can threshold brake better than most ABS systems, but unless you're that good keep it until you're better. It will not only save your ass in daily driving situations, but racing it will save your tires from flat spotting and scary theatrics like spinning out. Not having ABS...