I have a straight 3" with a resonator in the cat converter area. No turbo whistle or cool noises but the overall sound is great. A bit on the louder side but not too loud IMO.

I looked up the part numbers are they are different. I don't know what the differences would be so take that for what it's worth.

I'm not sure there is a relief valve on the 295 pump. The flow chart shows it flowing pretty well until about 130psi before it nose dives.

Bad belt setup they have. I've been using the 3 belt system since 2009 without an issue.

Josh is right. I worded that incorrectly. What I meant was that, way back when we knew that Aisin were the OEM pumps and would use them from aftermarket companies to save a little money.DSSA I ordered a Gates water pump several months ago from an online vendor and it has the OEM type...

Not that the Mitsubishi parts champion of the world needs me to confirm anything for him but I will anyways.I have both the NTN and Koyo idler and tensioner pulleys in their respective boxes and they are a 100% match to the OEM pulleys in the Mitsu boxes.Also, the Aisin water pump 'trick'...

Good idea. Looks factory too.

Does the factory fan and shroud fit pretty snug against the radiator?

Don't think I've ever been to Pocono. Not with my car anyways.

Yes. The 450/525 only have a barb fitting on top so the o-ring is insufficient. You can try to use two of them or the EVO o-ring and hope for the best, but it's not the right way.

Here are a few pictures from my install.

The problem with the 450/525 pump in a 2G AWD is at higher pressure levels the o-ring setup leaks. You will only see this while logging fuel pressure or will notice your VE being whacked out at higher RPMs(trying to add more fuel but it's just not happening because it's leaking). The correct way...

CTS-V on the front and EVO 8/9 on the back.

No picture but they bolt right up. Have one in my wife's car. You use a 6 bolt thermostat.

The best way is to datalog fuel pressure. If you are not seeing a 1:1 rise in pressure with boost its a dead giveaway. You can also get a sneak peak by unsealing the assembly and pulling it out about an inch and watch it during idle. You will see it leaking easily.

I would think you should get way more from a 450 than 546hp. Are you sure the pump is sealing correctly? Using the OEM o ring setup has been known to leak fuel at higher pressure.

You can always back off on the ethanol content IMO. I run e55 with a 60mm HX40 and get 40psi out of it. Any more ethanol and I start leaning out as well. After e50 or so you dont really see much benefit anyways.

If I have it right, it's Mitsu number MR431121. Extreme sells them for about $8.

Without a bulk head the Toyota/EVO seal is the only chance of it sealing correctly.

On my 2G I've put down 565 awhp back in 2010 and I'm 600+ awhp right now with the vrsf. Never took IAT measurements before and after so no real evidence if it's still efficient at this point.

My wife's Spyder has the 3" Apexi that goes under axle and never had an issue with it scraping. It's lowered on an eibach pro kit.

I have just the front and back in my wife's Spyder and you can't feel any vibrations at all. Very simple to install on the 2G because they are both just added into the mount.

x2. Total nightmare.

I've been using the ERL for 6 years with my T3 HX40. Love it.

Walbro 255 in tank and a Walbro 255 inline, after the filter. Runs 10s or better all day.

My setup is very similar to Mike's. I am using two Walbro 255 pumps. One in tank and the other inline.

Agreed. You can usually tune that out if you have just a little bit knowledge.Have you drilled the syphon hole bigger yet? If not it is very easy and literally only takes about 30-45 minutes total to do. I would definitely do that.

Its not that you would have issues but its certainly not the best way to do things. When you install a 255 pump your low and mid fuel trims are way out of whack weather you know it or not.

I have one that I modified to be PSI activated. I installed a t25 actuator which starts to open at ~12psi and fully at ~18psi. I absolutely love it. Not only does it feel much better, but the proof was in my dyno sheet. I put down 565awhp with 524lb/ft. That is nearly 100 more lb/ft that...

The 560cc injectors they have are a nice pick up.

I dont think the 34mm flapper is needed. If anything port the WG hole to fit better with the stock flapper. The main problem most of the time is the o2 housing. Get it ported or buy tubular, etc.

When I installed mine it seemed I had problems with the new endtank sealing. I kept checking it out of the car though. Finally got it to seal though and all is good.

One thing to add. Make sure you soak everything with PB Blaster at least once a day for a week or so before doing this. I soaked mine for almost two weeks before hand and everything came off squeeky clean. Took about 1/2 hour total to swap.

Denso 550cc.

The 'Cylcone' engines had the yellow top 510s and are from Galant VR-4s. If they are red top 560s they are from some type of EVO. Probably a USDM EVO 8.

Very good info there. Thanks.

You may be right, but Ive seen JDM 4g63's with 13G turbos before. Not sure if that means anything.

I remember seeing a prototype brochure thing from 1988. I think the Eclipse GSX was originally going to be called the GSR-4, but I could be wrong.

Ive heard of people that didnt have them(usually not on purpose). Do you know if its anything to really stress about? Any idea how many more degrees the oil is when not cooled?

Just wondering what the side effects are of bypassing the oil cooler. Is hotter oil that bad? Would there be any benefits?

I wouldnt go over 14-15psi.

I think the regular 16g is only more efficient at lower boost levels. Anything from like 18+ go with a big 16g. Also, the big 16g has alot better top end.

Well I believe the 2Gs are closer to 12 psi stock, but when you get rid of the plastic BOV and do soem free mods you get around 14-15 psi.

So the only real negative effect of a dumped housing is that its real loud?

Im rebuilding the engine from my 93. I bought a ported big 16g, and a ported 2G exh manifold. I also want to get rid of boost spike while Im at it. So should I port out the housing or just buy a dumped one? The reason Im leaning away from the ported is because Ive heard even with it ported you...

Not sure if your auto or 5spd, but the 5spd runs 11.1 psi stock and the auto runs 10.4 psi stock.

Well, he is totally stock except for that. Its a 90 TSi. How much HP do you think he gained by doing that?

Well, I am talking about a turbo car, not mine. Anyways, the reason I ask is because I talked to a guy that told me he gained AT LEAST 50 hp by cutting the pipe right in front of the cat. I didnt believe him, but he told me its dyno proven.

If you were to cut the exhaust right in front of the cat. converter, do you gain hp?