I'm a big fan of Setrab coolers, but they're pricey. Very similar stacked plate design as the Derale in post #1.

Old thread, but I too and wondering if anyone has successfully ran an EVO 8/9 IAC on a DSM? I'm wondering if it works as expected and if it's just a matter of wiring in a new connector?

So you basically have to cut a giant 7" circle around the entire damper?

Anyone have a pic of the 1G 6-bolt cover that shows where it needs to be trimmed?

I'm backordered on them as well. ARP has been hit and miss all year (mostly miss).

Tough to be sure without a measurement, but I'd guess it's -16. If the OD is ~1.150", then it's -16AN, and that looks about right.

Actually, no. Craig calls it a Positive Crankcase Ventilation setup because it uses pre-turbo intake pipe vacuum to draw on the crankcase, but it does NOT use the OE PCV valve in that configuration. And the reason is that the OE PCV vale would never open and would essentially act as a plug in...

Looks great, Corey. That's where I wanted to put mine, but my right leg predominately occupied that area too well. Did you plumb it to one front and one rear wheel?

How thick is the hub on your Fluidampr and which ARP bolts are you running?

Have you checked/replaced the post filter?Also, disassemble the regulator and check under the diaphram to make sure it was properly machined.Aeromotive adjustable fuel pressure regulater issues

I wouldn't worry about it too much, man. Any fabricated manifold can crack, but an overwhelming majority never do. The good thing is that if it does crack, it's incredibily quick and easy to repair anyway.

The reason for torquing is steps is so that there isn't ever a large deviation of torqued value from one stud to the next. The rule of thumb is to divide the final value by three, as to do 3 roughly-even steps. This isn't set in stone though, so just make sure you aren't ever taking any big...

ARP recommends 5 torque cycles, which has nothing to do with heat cycles.

It's pretty straight forward. Here's some reading for you.2G (1995 – 1999) Eclipse/Talon AWD ConversionAWD Conversion - Automotive Articles .com Magazinehttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/drivetrain-tech/247093-awd-conversion-swap-guys-enter-here-advanced-merged-2-07-a.html

XRP makes the -10 ORB to -6 AN adapters. SIM can sell them to you.EDIT: XRP part number 980061.

The reason why SS filters are recommended over paper for E85 has much less to do with corrosion and more to do with maintainence and flow restriction. Paper elements will clog fairly quickly. So unless you're willing to change the element quite often, it's better to run a coarser element. And...

Come on... They're not that diffucult to spot.

Crunch the numbers. You'd be surprised. None of us truely flow that much fuel in these cars.Take a Wally 450 flowing no more than 2 GPM. To achieve a velocity of 13 ft/sec (which is right in the middle of the range that you want to be in), you only need 1/4" I.D fuel line. That means...

If our pumps were all getting proper voltage, then we wouldn't be rewiring them. ;) And if it's worth rewiring, then why not wire it all the way and not just most of the way?

The STM kit (like all other kits) only replaces the wiring up to the connector on the pump assembly. To me, it makes more sense to "rewire" all the way to the pump itself rather than stopping 6" before the pump. Do it once, do it right...What's E85 got to do with it?

Those wires are the wires for the pump itself. It was my way of doing a pump re-wire.

I always jb welded the connector back in just for added retention and sealing. It's worked well the 3 or 4 times that I've done it.PS - I hate those connectors. :)Google search "liquid tight cord grip".

As confirmed a few months ago in post #31, you'll need to measure the hub thickness to see if you have an older or newer Fluidampr, and run the appropriate length bolts for it.The old Fluidamprs used a 17mm thick hub and the new version has a 10mm thick hub.

Which regulator are you running?

I ran a tiny -3AN line to mine and had no issues. The I.D. is .14", which is smaller yet than your 3/16" hose.

I've been selling BeCool stuff for about 10 years now. Definitely top notch quality, though the price usually scares most customers away.Most of the people that buy BeCool radiators are buying a show-quality piece for a show car. As far as DSMs and general racecars, there are far cheaper...

I don't think they are on Andrew's site, but I'll bet Corey has a pic he could share.

If I punctured an aluminum radiator, I'd weld it.That being said, I have repaired a radiator with JB Weld in the past. Though it had plastic end tanks (leak was on the end tank) and it was a beater car that I didn't care about. But it held for years until the rest of the car fell apart...

He's running one of the plates/covers that Andrew @ Frontline Fab makes.I'll be doing the same thing as my fuel cell is going to sit where the spare tire hump currently is.

I don't know about the FFWD copper gasket, but I once owned a Mr. Gasket copper manifold gasket and the port size was tiny. My head had been port matched using an OE MLS gasket and the copper one was alot smaller. It could have been opened up, but it would have cut into the embossed area...

Here's a few of John's:

The exhaust is probably going to need to modifications to get around it. I know that John built his exhaust after he had the subframe installed and I'm pretty sure he had to kick the routing out closer to the inboard CA mount rather than follow the original path.

Looking good. Looks like the fuel filler situation won't be so bad afterall.

Is is leaking around the copper crush washer? Or is is leaking between the hose end and metric adapter fitting?

I'm planning to do a 1G rear soon. I have a complete subframe sitting behind the garage. Just need to jig it up and get to fabbin. But with the work I currently have on my plate, I imagine it will be a project for after this racing season.

Retail is around $320, though I'm not sure what most DSM vendors sell them for these days.

I just pulled a new Fluidampr out of my inventory and verified the hub is now thinner. The new ones now measure .400" or 10mm. I'm not sure when the running change took place though. But, the stock bolts should be fine with the new hub thickness on these.If anyone is still interested in...

Awesome, awesome! I knew the rearend housing would be a tight fit due to the way it had to be designed to accomodate the OE fuel tank. I'm sure a few choice words were spoken.Fine work so far. :thumb:I'm glad it clears the tank. To date, this is the only one I've built for an OE tank...

Shredwin, can you post a measurement of the hub thickness of your damper? The one I was running in 2010 was roughly 17mm thick.

If you don't have access to a welder, the next best option is to use the method in post #53.

I wouldn't go that far. ANY manifold can crack. And I have seen a cracked FP manifold, although it is extremely uncommon.With that being said, I would choose an FP manifold over a DNP any day of the week. From a performance and longevity standpoint, the FP manifold is the best bang for...

This? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/228159-how-build-your-own-afpr-kit.htmlEDIT: I'm too slow this morning. lolYou don't need them, but they are nice to have. If you use anything but the AN wrenches, you'll risk scratching the anodizing.

180 gph = ~680 LPH. That's alot of fuel, but ratings at 45 psi are useless to us turbo guys. Either way, I would have guessed around that much flow at 80 psi with three inline Wally 255's.

That would definitely be interesting. I'm not sure what that would flow, but it shouldn't have a problem outflowing twin 044's. And 1/4" inlets would probably be plenty large enough on the 3-way as long as the outlet was at least 1/2". That's a neat idea though.

For comparisions sake;* Holley pump costs $300-370. And it flows 455 lph at 80 psi. * 2 Walbro 255 in tank pumps cost $200. And together they flow 385 lph at 80 psi. * 2 Walbro 255 in-line pumps cost $230. And together they flow 458 lph at 80 psiSo the Holley pump flows about the...

Have you also checked both fuel filters as well as inside the injectors? I'd be surprised if it were only at the tips.

And for anyone who can't view the Link forum:Remove this brake line and route a line from here to the inlet of the staging brake. Then run a line from the outlet of the staging brake to this lower port on the proportioning valve. This should activate the passenger side front caliper and...

I never plumbed it. The car has been in storage since my last post in this thread. And now I'm swapping to an automatic, so the staging brake has been sold.Here's some info regarding plumbing though: ECMTuning User Support Forums

Gasoline apparantly does dissolve the black goo, but I haven't heard of any solution to the problem. I also haven't found any difinitive about where the stuff comes from and how.

Moly lube is perfect. ARP's new stuff (ultra-torque) is just designed to eliminate cycling, which isn't an issue to you because you're reusing studs anyway. But the old ARP lube was just moly based lube anyway and it worked/works great.I know Craig (calan) has issues with the E85 goo too...