little update:while typing the last post i had disconnected the battery in hopes to "reset" the ecu. its seems to have worked with the acception of the tach. the car runs normal, the tach accels up to about 3k then starts to move around wildly.i may just try to drive to work and see how...

this morning on my way to work i had some serious problems. it almost feels like a really bad boost leak, i cant accellerate over 3k. but i looked down at the tach and noticed it was all over the place! it went past 9k when i tried to give the car a little gas.it started when i tried to...

exhaust would be next on my wish list. start with a catback. ive seen ebay combos with a downpipe for 250 shipped. the exhuast will let you get the most out of what you got now and more later.figure what you wanna do fuel/managment wise and do it right once.

well like he said he just plans on driving it responsibly. hes not setting up for any form of racing.FMICs dont have to be huge, niether do his rims tho. i personally like the GSX rims and i would keep those on. but if he wants to change em up to "black with a polished lip" for looks he...

ducts to the the Rad from the IC help alot... so they say. i havent really got around to making them myself. i made mocks of cardboard but it rained the next day so they turned soggy on me. I was thinking of some kind of dryer duct hose to rout the air from the fog light holes to the engine...

an autometer boost gauge can be found for 60 bucks at Autozone. a VDO gauge from Checkers should be cheaper, or a 20 dollar Sun-Pro... im just throwing the options out there. they all look the same really. white or black with numbers and an orange needle. just get one that works....yea...

18s are a kick in the nuts for performance standards... but they look so much better than 16s lol. 17s are ok, but 18s are close to perfect imo. my spyder could use a drop, but not as bad as some others ive seen with 17sthe SSAC FMIC is flanged for the 1g BOV i believe. plus its a fairly...

i would go exhaust first, my ebay n1 is just right IMO. then downpipe. add a basic MAF adapter and pod filter from autozone. BOV will hold more psi if you "flip" it, that is till you decide if what FMIC kit or hard pipes your getting and what BOV its flanged for. personally i would go with...

all the external mods should work just as they did before the internal engine work.

sand the door panels a little bit and paint them... thats what i would do. if was having my interior completely redone like that and my car was black i would go for RED seats. i think if done right, it can be exotic and classy looking.

3.18= AWD beast!OMGyea im goin to build one this weekend. been busy with work n stuff. ill get to it tho. im also in the process of ordering a few ebay parts. IC hard pipes, catback. after install and boostleak test/fix i hope to knock off atleast a sec.how do i set the timing for *30?

I get around 22 MPG mix between city and hwy. But ill def' have to build me a boost leak tester. i got to head down to Caballo tomorrow for work, so i dont know if ill have time when i get back to do a full test. Is there a write up to build and leak test? Link? im being lazy...

The time i looked up was for an automaitic GST.I think the Spyder was pretty close to the GSX wieght.I dont think me being a good/bad driver would make a difference. Its automatic. The clock on the logger starts when the vehicle starts moving. It ran the same thing twice.The...

im just curious to see what the average 0-60 time is for a DSM.Car and Driver has 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T (Auto) 7.4, with a 15.5 1/4mile.i recently picked up a logger and it had a acceleration timer for 0-60.with a 60 degree intake temp at nearly 5,500 ft above sea level i got...

evo parts for the turbos... bov, fuel pump, injectorsall in all it would depend how bad you want to use something. if your trying to save a buck on parts as long as it works OR just hard headed about using something no matter what the cost.

my advice would to try an do moderate upgrades while replacing things you may have to replace anyways. now would be a great time for a tougher headgasket, maybe lifters or a mild head kit(i got one with +1 SS vavles with bronze guides and 3g lifters for cheaper than OEM valves), do T-belt/water...

so does the knock off include the restriction needed to make this set up work properly?

nah cops round here dont bother me much.... knock on wood. plus this core fills the mouth of the bumper anyways...

flick of a switch to manual-

well i already have it.i know the numbers im shooting for a well within reach with the stock side mount, if i were to use hard ic pipes.i figured since i wanted a fmic setup and need new piping anyways might as well go with it. plus all n all i think ill have it all goin for about the...

well -15 psi. top power... whatever i can get out of it. i should have 2.5inch cat+back exhaust, this FMIC + custom pipe, and the boost up'd to about 13-14psi. i dont know what kinda numbers i would be working with, but thats about all the "big" things... i would like to hit 200-225whp

i plan to use it just for a dd too.

i picked up a fmic from a local. its bigger than stock. about 27" X 6.5" X 2.5"heres a link to a SIMILAR one.eBay Motors: INTERCOOLER STARION ECLIPSE TALON EVO8 WRX SRT4 3000GT (item 370022312488 end time Feb-18-08 14:09:42 PST)too small? should i slap it on? or should i just sell...

i hear the best thing for the spyders is the AWD applications. they are closer in wieght. im not sure if the AWDs are the only ones that fit tho...

just buy the flex pipe, cat(optional), and muffler of your choice...make a friend at a muffler shop:sneaky:

it sounds to me like hes trying to make best with what he gots. not build an engine. besides you dont need to 'do' that much 'work' to get to his 300hp goals, 'son'.

far from a pro. i just broke my stock BOV too a few months back. learn from other peoples experiences. just trying to pass along the word. good luck with it all.

dude i got an evo BOV for 40$ shipped. no adapter, no extra anything... pops right in like stock. i got an evo MR BOV so its metal. but im sure you can pick up a regular evo BOV thats almost identical to the stock one. they hold 20+PSI. cheap as hell and direct replacement. OEM reliability and...

thats alot of $... is it really needed tho? i mean if your asking about it- your not too sure... what are your goals? and have others done them without extra expenses such as this?

what happened to your stock BOV? i would put it back on till you get enough $ to buy a real greddy bov. it flutters like that because of the vac line that goes to the Intake manifold. mine was doing the same when that nipple broke on my stock BOV.

Wow... This IS sucks lolif i were you ild change my oil, maybe do a flush. then do it again. get a magnet. a big one. and stick it on your oil pan near the plug. and hope that helps gather chips/shavings... and you might just be able to keep that car alive for a bit longer.

why is that? i know optimum backpressure for a turbo is 0, but anything is better than stock. even more so with 2.5in pipes.a straight thru pipe would be a drone. i have enough road noise with the top up or down.besides the box says TURBO PERFORMANCE MUFFLER ROFL

FlowTech made by Holley.2.5 in/outi kinda bought it today on a whim. $25 tho is not bad for a muffler. not just for a straight can, but an actual muffler.i kinda cheaped out on the cheap. i actually went in looking for the "AFTERBURNER", after seeing the shitty welds and peeling...

deal fell thru. no more drager for me : (

temp or pressure gauge for the oil? do a quick search... theres gonna be a bunch of people saying you shoulda gone electric on the oil....

whoa! boy was i wrong! i was thinking less air in the tires beter traction, in all weather. less air more "footprint" right?i had the same problem with the last set of tires i had. cheap ass "Denominators" that came with the car. they had good tread left but the traction sucked. i wrecked...

plus it has the Chrysler logo on it...

maybe t stat housing? is it a cast part?

do you have any pics or vids? ive seen the exhaust n all, just would like visual. sound would be awsome. itll get me thru SAT lol, get me amped for SUN.

im picking up the Drager system Sunday, maybe installing it too. havnt decided yet if i wanna watch the super bowl.

OG ol skool HKS Drager catback...i may have just picked up a sytem for cheap... any one else still use/have this system?

:)put it on my resume' lolonly thing is i thought "bleeders" were bad?

let me guess, you work at the labs up there lol?

so i read pages and pages of the starion front mount vs supra side mount page... so it does flow about 300 cmf, the stock only flows about 190.UP's- is that it doesnt heat soak... looks good... and allows you to replace you IC Pipes. works best with modded endtanks/outletsDown's- isnt...

so it would be more than adequate for my needs...does anyone have any pics of it plumbed up to a 2g?i think ive seen/heard of it on a 1g... any one have pics of one to get a rough idea?

ild really rather spend the money on it, along with the pipe that will have to be bent to make it work, if its not gonna do anything but look like a FMIC.i hear the starions actually hurt performance. at least thats what the search pulled up on a 14 page topic. but then again they were...

i seen a FMIC IC for cheap... just dont know what it is.. at first i thought it was a Starion IC. then i searched a bit n now im not so sure.it should work better than stock with a t25 right?<center> <img...

check to see if you got any torn boots on your CV's for the noises when turning.you should start with the basics.change filters, check the plugs/wires, boost leak test, check for a clogged cat, check all fuses. any/everything you can do cheap or free. if nothing less youll have peace of...

what kinda MPG are you getting now? may not be leaking that much and it would be harder to find with such a low test psi. usually you wanna test it for more than your actually gonna push. that way you know your good.

maybe where the side mount used to be somewhere.