No, he has retired from it.

Depending on what organization, novices usually don't have much downtime. They go from class to track to car control and repeat. Here's a sample schedule from a group I run with frequently that you can check out the first time/novice schedule...

You should go into your first experience with eyes open, ears open, and the full intent to learn. You can read all about driving on a track, play video games, etc. but I don't think much will prepare you for the information overload you're going to experience. Learning the racing line...

That's the factory MDP (manifold differential pressure) sensor. Our cars never came with a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor. The MDP cannot be used for any speed density application, but it can be replaced with a MAP sensor that will work with speed density.

1g CAS which mounts on the passenger side of intake cam (pics in the article of green and black top) - http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1gcasin2g.htm2ga CAS which mounts on the driver side of the intake cam (has a plug for the hole on the passenger side)Needs the 2ga intake cam with...

You cannot purchase throttle body seals from Mistubishi. There's no separate part number for it - I've tried.

Yes, I ran two group buys on here for the DG setup through Jay Racing. No lifetime warranty that I'm aware of. They are adjustable in regards to ride height, but not in regards to spring preload.

I don't have an opinion on the Feals - never owned them.I used to have Tein Flex coilovers and initially thought they were great because of how stiff they were. Once I upgraded to the DG setup, I realized how crappy the Tein shocks were. The Koni shocks are a great match for DD/track days...

Just make sure to double check, the Evo 3 should already be the same size as the throttle body. If you got an RVR intake (looks very similar to Evo 3), you might need to port it a bit.Definitely rebuild it. Don't want to install it to find the shaft seals leak.

And keep in mind that bolting a 1g throttle body up to a 2g manifold that hasn't been ported is useless. The bore sizes are different.

http://farnorthracing.com/autocross/konis.html

Since it's a pain to merge threads on here and you've got your answer, I'm going to close this thread.

I've definitely "ordered" parts from my usual company and had them come back after a few days saying the parts are no longer available. Worth a shot, but the parts sites usually don't update their info as often as they should.I purchased gray ones within the past few years with no issue...

Ya, that first clip only works with certain carpet styles.I don't see it listed as "in stock", but it just comes up via a search.Try posting a WTB ad. I'm sure someone's got one lying around somewhere. Or call Miller Imports.

Order new floor mats? :p

I know that the part is not available in ASA at all and that was the only other logical place that it could possibly be found. Omar asked me about this the other night so out of curiosity I sent an e-mail off to a Mitsu contact I have to see if he had an explanation as to why I can't find that...

You need to keep an eye on your coolant temps. They're getting to the point of pulling timing.You've got a lot of knock in a few of those logs you posted. Drop your timing sliders back down to 0 or even lower to get rid of the knock.Your fuel sliders need adjusted as you're running richer...

Did you find that via Chrysler and not Mitsubishi?

No.

Calibration is essentially getting all of the pieces setup properly - making sure your fuel injector numbers are correct, making sure your airflow reading is correct, making sure your logged wideband value is correct, etc. You really aren't doing any tuning, but more setting yourself up to...

Did you read my post and look at the link?

Make sure the white mark on your harmonic damper is clean and bright. Some of them have a tendency to be dull or wear off, so if that's the case, just remark it. Start the car and get it up to operating temp. Fire up link, go to the Misc tab, and check the "Ground timing connector to ECU" box...

Link has a built-in check box to invert the signal.

The belt you question about is the alternator belt, since it runs to the alternator.I believe the switch in question is the hood switch (for a theft alarm sensor). http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/#post-151528416It's not the dual pressure switch as...

'95 DSMs are OBDII. If you have a '95, you have a high chance of having an EPROM ECU already, which is necessary for installing the ECMlink chip. You could get your ECU socketed (remove stock EPROM chip and replace with socket) and then purchase an ECMlink package and you're ready to tune...

http://www.dsmlink.com/wiki/swapplugwires

It limits the car to 130 mph.

It wouldn't (I think I made my previous post a bit confusing). It'll have +5v, ground, and signal. If you pin between the +5v and ground, you'll get +5v on the meter. The other two combos won't read +5v, and the common wire on those two combos will be your signal.

Just pin out the connector that plugs into the sensor and look for 5v signal. You should get 5v on a multimeter on 1/3 of the pin combinations you try. That should help you isolate the signal wire that you need to tap into.

I'm not able to help with your problem, but just wanted to clear up that you do need a wideband sensor to view your actual AFR. If a program displays it, it will be an estimate and not accurate if the car is not fully tuned.

Those problems sound more mechanical than tune based. Have you done a compression check on the car recently? Happen to know anyone around you that's also into these cars who might be able to lend a hand?

I'm assuming you verified your timing marks all lined up after installing the belt from the BSE install?I'd go into your timing table and at least drop it all back down to 0 (currently at +2 across the board). You can also richen the AFR to help.Sadly with v1 you don't have much control at...

Their main purpose is to allow the helper spring to freely rotate during full suspension travel so as to not have the main spring bind up on it.From all I've seen you asking about them, just run without them if you're that worried. I doubt you'll notice a difference with or without them...

Can you post any pictures?

I initially had a Home Depot built boost controller, but it didn't work well (everything was properly put together). I then went to a Hallman Pro and it was a hugh upgrade. It worked very well and would still be running it if I didn't switch to an EBC boost by gear setup with ECMlink v3 (FWD...

Another thing to keep an eye on is your IDC % value. This is getting pretty close to 90%, which is a bit higher than ideal (80%). If you plan on turning the boost up more, you'll be wanting to get some bigger injectors.

You could also prevent the knock by richening up the AFR, but it's mainly because you turned up the boost and didn't reduce timing to account for it.

If you upped the boost and you're seeing knock, then you need to reduce timing in the area that the knock is present and by the amount of knock you're seeing.Since you're seeing knock from 4700 to 5700 RPM in some amount, here's my suggestion.4500 RPM - drop timing 2* 5000 RPM - drop timing...

When using a GM MAF, you can expect to have those MAF Hz values at idle. http://www.dsmlink.com/wiki/v3vsmaftWith the 272 cams, your AirflowPerRev might be a bit higher (.28-.30 maybe). You should be able to get it down to .25, but if it's a bit higher, nothing to worry about.You mentioned...

I'm with Paul - you can't bolt a 1g trans into a 2g (however, you can bolt a 2g trans in a 1g).Post pics of the trans so we can verify which one you have.

Since you're using the v3 app to connect to a v2.5 chip, did you go into the Configure Connection screen (button in upper left when the app is launched) and change the version to V1/V2? By default, it'll try to connect to a v3 chip.Here's some other notes on connection issues...

The BW wire runs to the power transistor plug (pin 8 it looks like). The blue plug is A-59.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/#post-151528370

Boost leak test?

The car is stuck in open loop in that log. Check out the possible causes and see if you can investigate why it won't go into closed loop. www.dsmlink.com/wiki/fueltrimupdatepointsThen go here, make sure the car is ready to start idle tuning, and follow the video on how to get idle dialed in...

I would definitely still look into the wiring and figure out what's going on. But if the car runs much better with the Baro being defined as the MAP vs. without it, then I'd say the wiring (at least for that) seems to be in place. But since the knock sensor is in that mess, I'd check it out...

Good. The log you had posted before that didn't have it selected.Looks like you're setup and ready to start tuning.

You mentioned earlier you have an Omni 4 bar MAP sensor. Since you're running speed density, you need to tell the ECU where to look so it can get the signal from the MAP sensor. You currently have no MAP sensor declared on the ECU Inputs tab, so the ECU is not seeing the signal from that...

Not sure what you mean by taking it out of baro mode. Are you talking about the drop down next to "Manifold pressure (MAP)"?You need to declare the sensor in the table at the top next to the Baro input pin.

Ya, that doesn't look good (can't even tell what's going on in that pic!). Also, having that shielding wire just hanging out there isn't good either.